A  PRACTICAL  TREATISE 


ON   THE 


MANUFACTURE  OF  PERFUMERY: 


COMPRISING 


DIRECTIONS  FOR  MAKING  ALL  KINDS  OF  PERFUMES,  SACHET 

POWDERS,  FUMIGATING  MATERIALS,  DENTIFRICES, 

COSMETICS,  ETC.,  ETC., 

WITH   A  FULL  ACCOUNT   OF  THE 

VOLATILE    OILS,  BALSAMS,  RESINS,  AND  OTHER  NATURAL 

AND  ARTIFICIAL  PERFUME-SUBSTANCES,  INCLUDING 

THE  MANUFACTURE  OF  FRUIT  ETHERS,  AND 

TESTS  OF  THEIR  PURITY. 

BY 

DR.  C.  DEITE, 

ASSISTED  BY  L.  BORCHERT,  F.  EICHBAUM,  E.  KUGLER, 
H.  TOEFFNER,  AND  OTHER  EXPERTS. 

FROM  THE  GERMAN  BY 

WILLIAM  T.  BRANNT, 

EDITOR  OP  "  THE  TECHNO-CHEMICAL,  RECEIPT-BOOK." 

ILLUSTRATED  BY  TWENTY-EIGHT  ENGRAVINGS, 


PHILADELPHIA: 
HENRY   CAREY   BAIRD    &    CO., 

INDUSTRIAL  PUBLISHERS, 'BOOKSELLERS  AND  IMPORTERS, 
''^-.        810  WALNUT  STREET. 
1892. 

TIE.  SIT  VII 


COPYRIGHT  BY 
HENRY  CAREY  BAIRD  &  CO. 

1892. 


PRINTED  AT  THE  COLLINS  PRINTING  HOUSE, 

705  Jayne  Street, 
PHILADELPHIA,  U.  S.  A, 


•%rag> 

PREFACE. 


A  TRANSLATION  of  the  portion  of  the 
"Handbuch  der  Parfiimerie-und  Toiletteseif- 
enfabrikation,"  edited  by  Dr.  C.  DEITE,  relat- 
ing to  perfumery  and  cosmetics,  is  presented  to 
the  English  reading  public  with  the  full  confi- 
dence that  it  will  not  only  fill  a  useful  place 
in  technical  literature,  but  will  also  prove — for 
what  it  is  chiefly  intended — a  ready  book  of 
reference  and  a  practical  help  and  guide  for 
the  perfumer's  laboratory.  The  names  of  the 
editor  and  his  co-workers  are  a  sufficient 
guaranty  of  its  value  and  practical  usefulness, 
they  all^  being  experienced  men,  well  schooled 
each  in  the  particular  branch  of  the  industry, 
the  treatment  of  which  has  been  assigned  to 
him. 

The  most  suitable  and  approved  formulae, 
tested  by  experience,  have   been   given;  and 


IV  PEEFACE. 

special  attention  has  been  paid  to  the  descrip- 
tion of  the  raw  materials,  as  well  as  to  the 
various  methods  of  testing  them,  the  latter 
being  of  special  importance,  since  in  no  other 
industry  has  the  manufacturer  to  contend  with 
such  gross  and  universal  adulteration  of  raw 
materials. 

It  is  hoped  that  the  additions  made  here  and 
there  by  the  translator,  as  well  as  the  portion 
relating  to  the  manufacture  of  "  Fruit  Ethers," 
added  by  him,  may  contribute  to  the  interest 
and  usefulness  of  the  treatise. 

Finally,  it  remains  only  to  be  stated  that, 
with  their  usual  liberality,  the  publishers  have 
spared  no  expense  in  the  proper  illustration 
and  the  mechanical  production  of  the  book ; 
and,  as  is  their  universal  practice,  have  caused 
it  to  be  provided  with  a  copious  table  of  con- 
tents and  a  very  full  index,  which  will  add 
additional  value  by  rendering  any  subject  in  it 
easy  and  prompt  of  reference. 

W.  T.  B. 

PHILADELPHIA,  May  2,  1892. 


CONTENTS. 


CHAPTER  I. 

HISTORICAL    NOTICE   OF    PERFUMERY. 

PAGE 

Consumption  of  perfume-substances  by  the  early  nations  of 
the  Orient 17 

Perfume-substances  as  an  offering  to  the  gods  and  their  use 
for  embalming  the  dead ;  Arts  of  the  toilet  in  ancient  times  1  -  18 

Perfume-substances  used  by  the  Hebrews ;  Olibanum  and 
the  mode  of  gaining  it  in  ancient  times,  as  described  by 
Herodotus  .  .  .  .  .  .  .  .  .19 

Pliny's  account  of  olibanum        .         .         .  .          .20 

Practice  of  anointing  the  entire  body  customary  among  the 
ancients ;  The  holy  oil  prescribed  by  Moses ;  Origin  of 
the  sweet- scented  ointment  "  myron"  .  .  .  .  21 

Luxurious  use  of  ointments  in  Athens,  and  the  special  oint- 
ments used  for  each  part  of  the  body ;  Introduction  of 
ointments  in  Rome,  and  edict  prohibiting  the  sale  of  for- 
eign ointments  ;  Plutarch  on  the  extravagant  use  of  oint- 
ments in  Rome  ........  22 

Ancient  books  containing  directions  for  preparing  ointments ; 
Directions  for  rose  ointment,  according  to  Dioscorides  .  23 

Ancient  process  of  distilling  volatile  oils ;  Dioscorides' s  direc- 
tions for  making  animal  fats  suitable  for  the  reception  of 
perfumes;  Consumption  of  perfume-substances  by  the 
ancient  Romans ;  Condition  of  the  ancient  ointment-makers  24 

Use  of  red  and  white  paints,  hair-dyes,  and  depilatories  b^ 
the  Romans  .  .  ...  .25 


VI  CONTENTS. 


Peculiar  substance  for  cleansing  the  teeth  used  by  the  Roman 
ladies  ;  Perfumeries  and  cosmetics  in  the  Middle  Ages  / 
Receipts  for  cosmetics  in  the  writings  of  Arabian  physi- 
cians, and  of  Guy  de  Chanlios '26 

Giovanni  Marinello's  work  on  "  Cosmetics  for  Ladies  ;"  In- 
troduction of  the  arts  of  the  toilet  into  France,  by  Cather- 
ine de  Medici  and  Margaret  of  Valois  .  .  .  .27 

Extravagant  use  of  cosmetics  in  France  from  the  commence- 
ment  of  the  seventeenth  to  the  middle  of  the  eighteenth 
century  f 28 

Importance  of  the  perfumer's  craft  in  France  ;  Chief  seats 
of  the  French  perfumery  industry  .  .  .  .29 

Privileges  of  the  parfumeurs-gantiers  in  France;  Use  of 
perfumes  in  England ;  Act  of  Parliament  prohibiting  the 
use  of  perfumeries,  false  hair,  etc.,  for  deceiving  a  man 
and  inveigling  him  into  matrimony  ....  30 

»-—  -       •••  f 

CHAPTJ:R-JI. 

THE    PERFUME-MATERIALS    FOR    THE    MANUFACTURE 
OF    PERFUMERY. 

Derivation  of  the  perfume-substances;    Animal  substances 

used;  Occurrence  of  volatile  oils  in  plants        .         .         .31 
,  Families  of  plants  richest  in  oil ;   Central  Europe  the  actual 
flower  garden  of  the  perfumer;  Principal  localities  for  the 
cultivation  of  plants         .         .         .         .         .         .         .32 

Volatile  oils  and  their  properties 33 

Principal  divisions  of  volatile  oils  .....  34 
Constitution  of  terpenes  ;  Concentrated  volatile  oils  .  .  35 
Modes  of  gaining  volatile  oils  ;  Expression  ...  36 

Clarification  of  the  oil 37 

Filter  for  clarifying  the  oil,  illustrated  and  described   .         .       38 

Distillation 39 

Apparatus  for  determining  the  percentage  of  volatile  oil  a 

vegetable  substance  will  yield,  illustrated  and  described    .       40 
Various  stills  for  the  distillation  of  volatile  oils,  illustrated 
and  described  .         .41 


CONTENTS.  Vll 

PAGE 

Distillation  of  volatile  oils  by  means  of  hot  air ;   Separation 
of  the  oil  and  water ;    Florentine  flasks,  illustrated  and 

described 46 

Separator- funnel,  illustrated  and  described  .         .         .47 

Extraction          .........       48 

Various  apparatuses  for  extraction,  illustrated  and  described       49 

Heyl's  distilling  apparatus 57 

Maceration  or  infusion  ;   Pomades ;   Purification  of  the  fats 
used  in  the  maceration  process          .....       58 

Huiles  antiques  ;  Old  French  process  of  maceration ;  Fiver's 

maceration  apparatus,  illustrated  and  described         .  59 

Flowers  for  which"  maceration  is  employed  ;   Absorption  or 

enjieurage       .         .         .         .         .          .         .         .          .       60J$t* 

Apparatuses  for  absorption,  illustrated -and  described  .         .       61— e 
Flowers  for  which  the  absorption  process  is  employed  ;   Stor- 
age of  volatile  oils  .         .         .         .         .          .         .65 

CHAPTER  III. 

TESTING    VOLATILE    OILS. 

Extensive  adulteration  of  volatile  oils ;  Testing  volatile  oils 

as  to  odor  and  taste         .......  66 

Recognition  of  an  adulteration  with  fat  oil  .  .  .67 

Detection  of  alcohol  or  spirit  of  wine  ;  Dragendorff's  test  .  68 

Hager's  tannin  test 69 

Detection  of  chloroform  ;  Detection  of  benzine  .  .  71 

Quantitative  determination  of  adulterations  with  alcohol, 

chloroform,  and  benzine  ......  72 

Detection  of  adulterations  with  terpenes  or  terpene-like  fluids  73 
Detection  of  adulterations  with  volatile  oils  of  a  lower  quality ; 

Test  with  iodine  .  .  • ,  •  .  •  .  .74 

Hoppe's  nitroprusside  of  copper  test  ....  75 

Table  showing  the  behavior  of  volatile  oils  free  from  oxygen 

towards  nitroprusside  of  copper 76 

Hager's  alcohol  and  sulphuric  acid  test ;  Hager's  guaiacum 

reaction  ....  .  78 


Vlll  CONTENTS. 

PAGK 

Division  of  the  volatile  oils  with  reference  to  the  guaiacum 

reaction 79 

Hubl's  iodine  method 80 

A.  Kremel's  test  by  titration  or  saponification  with  alcoholic 
potash  lye  .          .          .         .          .          .          .          .81 

Utilization  of  Maumene's  test  by  F.  R.  Williams        .         .       82 
Planchon's  proposed   procedure  for   the   recognition    of  a 
volatile  oil 83 

CHAPTER  IV. 

THE   VOLATILE   OILS    USED    IN    PERFUMERY. 

Acacia  oil  or  oil  of  cassie  ;  Almond  oil  (bitter)  .         .         .87 
Adulterations  of  oil  of  bitter  almonds  and  their  detection    .        90 
Angelica  oil        .          .          .         .          .         .         .          .         .92 

Anise-seed  oil    .         .         .         .         .         .         .         ...       93 

Star  anise  oil      . 94 

Balm  oil ;  Basil  oil ;  Bayberry  oil,  or  oil  of  bay  leaves         .       96 
Bergamot  oil ;  Testing  bergamot  oil  as  to  its  purity     .         .       97 
Cajeput  oil         .         .      :  ,         .         ......         .       98 

Camomile  or  chamomile  oil ;    Blue  camomile   oil ;    Green 
camomile  oil  .....         ..        •         .         .       99 

Caraway  oil ;   Recognition  of  the  purity  of  caraway  oil        .     1 00 
Cedar  oil ;  Cherry-laurel  oil        ......     101 

Detection  of  oil  of  mirbane  in  cherry- laurel  oil ;   Cinnamon 

oils;  Ceylon  cinnamon  oil 102 

Cassia  oil 103 

Cinnamon-root  oil  and  oil  of  cinnamon  leaves  ;   Quantitative 

determination  of  cinnamaldehyde  in  cassia  oil  .          .104 

Detection  of  adulterations  in  cassia  oil ;   Citron  oil       .         .     106 
Detection  of  adulterations  in  citron  oil ;  Citronella  oil ;  De- 
tection of  adulterations  in  Citronella  oil    .          .          .         .107 

Oil  of  cloves 108 

Test  for  the  value  of  oil  of  cloves       .         .         .         .         .109 

Eucalyptus  oil 110 

Fennel  oil  111 


CONTENTS.  IX 

PAGE 

Geranium  oil,  palmarosa  oil,  Turkish  geranium  oil ;    East 

Indian  geranium  oil;  French  and  African  geranium  oils  .     112 
Adulterations  of  geranium  oils ;  Jasmine  oil,  or  oil  of  jessa- 
mine                .         .         .         .         .113 

Juniper  oil          .         .         .         .         .         .         .         ;         .114 

Lavender  oil ;   Spike  oil      .         .         .         .         .         .     ^  .     115 

Detection   of  adulterations  of  lavender  oil ;    Lemon   oil ; 
Sponge  process  of  obtaining  lemon  oil     ...         .         .116 

Ecuelle  process  .         .         .         .         .         .         .         .117 

Distillation  ;   Apparatus  combining  the  Ecuelle  and  distilling 
processes,  illustrated  and  described  .         .         .         .118 

Adulterations  of  oil  of  lemons  and  their  detection :    Lilac 

oil;   Oil  of  limes 121 

Licari  oil,  linaloe  oil;  Marjoram  oils;   Spanish  marjoram  oil     122 
Mignonette  oil ;  Myrrh  oil  .         .          .         .         .         .123 

Nutmeg  oils ;  Mace  oil ;   Adulterations  of  mace  oil  and  their 

detection 124 

Opopanax  oil ;  Orange-peel  oil,  Portugal  oil  or  essence  of 

Portugal;  Mandarin  oil  .          .'         .         .          .         .125 

Orange-flower  oil  or  neroli  oil ;  Neroli  Portugal  oil ;   Culti- 
vation of  the  orange  on  the  French  Riviera  and  yield  of 
orange  blossoms  ;   Characteristics  of  oil  of  orange  flowers  .     1 26 
Adulterations  of  neroli  oil  and  their  detection      .          .         .127 
Petit-grain  oil ;  Oil  of  orris  root          .         .         .         .         .129 

Patchouli  oil .          .         .130 

Varieties  and  characteristics  of  patchouli  oil        .         .         .131 
Peppermint  oil ;   Oil  of  curled  mint ;  Peppermint  oil  and  its 
varieties  .........     132 

American  oils  of  peppermint  of  high  reputation;  Mode  of 
distinguishing  American,    German,   and   English   oils    of 
peppermint     .         .         .         .          .          .         .          .         .133 

Adulterants  of  peppermint  oil  and  their  detection        .         .134 

Poley  oil    .         .         .         .  ' 135 

Pimento  oil  or  oil  of  allspice ;  Rose  oil  or  attar  of  roses ; 
Principal  localities  of  its  production;  Schimmel  &  Co.'s, 
of  Leipzic,  Germany,  experiment  to  obtain  oil  from  in- 
digenous roses  ....  .  .  .  136 


X  CONTENTS. 

PAGE 

The  rose-oil  industry  in  Bulgaria  ;  Methods  of  gathering  and 

distilling  the  roses 137 

Characteristics  of  pure  rose  oil 138 

Manner  of  judging  the  genuineness  of  rose  oil ;  Process  for 

the  insulation  and  determination  of  stearoptene  in  rose  oil     139 
Adulteration  of  rose  oil  with  ginger-grass  oil  .          .     140 

Test  for  the  adulteration  of  rose  oil  with  ginger-grass  oil  era- 
ployed  in  Bulgaria  .         .         .         .         .          .         .141 

Adulterants  of  rose  oil        .         .          .         .          .         .          .142 

Tests  for  rose  oil ;   Approximate  quantitative  determination 
of  spermaceti  in  rose  oil  .          .          .         .          .         .143 

Rosemary  oil ;  Detection  of  adulterations  in  rosemary  oil     .      144 
•Rosewood  oil  or  rhodium  oil;   Sandal-wood   oil;   Sassafras 

oil;  Characteristics  of  sassafras  oil  .         .          .          .115 

Thyme  oil *     ^    .     147 

Oil  of  turpentine ;   Austrian  oil  of  turpentine ;  German  oil 
of  turpentine ;  French  oil  of  turpentine  ;  Venetian  oil  of 
turpentine       .          .         .          .          .         .          .          .         .      148 

American  oil  of  turpentine ;    Pine    oil ;    Dwarf  pine    oil ; 
Krummholz  or  Latschenoel ;  Pine-leaf  oil;    Templin  oil 
(Kienoel)  ;  Balsalm-pine  oil   ....         .         .     149 

Oil  of  verbena  ;   Oil  of  violet  ;  Vitivert  or  vetiver  oil  .         .     150 
Wintergreen  oil  .         .          .          .         .         .         .          .151 

Birch  oil;  Artificial  preparation  of  methyl  salicylate  .          .      152 
Adulteration  of  wintergreen  oil  and  its  detection ;  Ylang- 

ylang  oil          .         .         . '   _  .         .          .         .         .         .153 

Cananga  oil  .         .         .         .         .         .         .         .154 

CHAPTER  V. 

RESINS    AND    BALSAMS. 

Elementary  constituents  of  resins  ;  Division  of  resins  ;  Hard 

resins  ;  Soft  resins  or  balsams ;  Gum-resins  .  .  .  155 
Diffusion  of  resins  in  the  vegetable  kingdom  ;  Benzoin  v  .  156 
Varieties  of  benzoin  and  their  characteristics  .  .  .157 
Peru  balsam  and  mode  of  obtaining  it  .  .  .  .159 
AVhite  Peru  balsam  ,  160 


CONTENTS.  XI 

PAGE 

Characteristics  of  Peru  balsam    .         .         .         .  .  .161 

Adulterants  of  Peru  balsam  and  their  detection  .  .  .162 

Tolu  balsam  and  its  characteristics       .         .          .  .  .166 

A  new  variety  of  Tolu  balsam    .         .^  .      .         .  .  .     167 

-  Storax  ;  Liquid  storax  and  its  characteristics       .  .  .168 

Adulteration  of  liquid  storax  and  its  detection     .  .  .170 

Storax  in  grains ;   Ordinary  storax       .          .         .  .  .171 

American  storax,  white  Peru  balsam,  white  Indian  balsam, 

or  liquid-ambar ;  Myrrh           .         .         .       '.  .  .     172 

\  Myrrha  electa  and  its  characteristics    .         ,         .  .  .173 

Constitution  of  myrrh          .          .         ...  .  .     1 74 

Adulteration  of  myrrh  and  its  detection       .         .  .  .175 

Opopanax ;   Olibanum  or  frankincense         .          .  .  .176 

Commercial  varieties  of  olibanum ;   Sandarac  and  its  charac- 
teristics           .          .         .         .         .          .          .  .  .177 

CHAPTER  VI. 

PERFUME-SUBSTANCES  FROM  THE  ANIMAL  KINGDOM. 

Musk  and  its  varieties  ;  Musk  sacs,  illustrated  and  described     1 78 

Characteristics  of  Tonkin  musk 180 

Musk  of  the  American  musk-rat  as  a  substitute  for  genuine 

musk 181 

Other  possible  substitutes  for  the  musk-deer  ;   Artificial  musk     182 
Adulterations  of  musk  and  their  detection  .         .         .         .183 

Civet 184 

Castor  and  its  varieties         .         .         .          .          .          .         .185 

Adulterations  of  castor ;   Ambergris     .          .          .         .          .186 

Constituents  of  ambergris 187 

Adulterations  of  ambergris 188 

CHAPTER  VII. 

ARTIFICIAL  PERFUME-MATERIALS. 

Conversion  of  oil  of  turpentine  into  oil  of  lemons  by  Bouch- 

ardat  and  Lafont .189 

Cumarin,  its  occurrence  and  properties         .         .         .         .190 


Xll  CONTENTS. 

PAGE 

Varieties  of  tonka  beans  found  in  commerce        .         .         .191 
Preparation  of  cumarin  from  tonka  beans  ;  Artificial  prepa- 
ration of  cumarin  from  salicylic  acid        .         .         .         .192 
Synthetical  preparation  of  cumarin  ;    Heliotropin  or  pipe- 

ronal  and  its  characteristics 193 

Preparation  of  heliotropin  .         .          .         .          .          .194 

Vanillin;   Characteristics  of  the  vanilla       .          .          .         .195 

Artificial  preparation  of  vanillin          .          .         .         .         .196 

Characteristics  of  vanillin  .         .          .          .         .         .197 

Adulteration  of  vanillin,  and  its  detection  ;   Nitrobenzol       .     198 
Characteristics  of  nitrobenzol  or  oil  of  mirbane ;   adultera- 
tion of  nitrobenzol  and  its  detection         .          .         .         .199 

Fruit  ethers  and  their  characteristics 200 

Acetic  amyl  ether  or  amyl  acetate,  its  preparation  and  use ; 

Acetic  ether  or  ethyl  acetate  and  its  preparation       .         .     201 
Benzoic  ether  or  ethyl  benzoate  and  its  preparation     .         .     204 
Butyric  ethyl  ether  or  ethyl  butyrate ;  Preparation  of  buty- 
ric acid  .........      205 

Preparation  of  butyric  ether        .         .          .         .          .         .207 

St.  John's  bread  or  carob  as  material  for  the  preparation  of 
butyric  ether  .         .....  .209 

Formic  ethyl  ether,  or  ethyl  formate  and  its  preparation      .     210' 
Nitrous  ether  or  ethyl  nitrate  and  its  preparation  according 
to  Kopp's  method  .         .   "      .         .         .         .    '     .     211 

Preparation  and  use  of  nitrous  ether  in  England  and  America     212 
Valerianic  amyl  ether  or  amyl  valerate  and  its  preparation       214 
Valerianic  ethyl  ether ;  Apple  ether ;  Apricot  ether ;  Cherry 
ether ;  Pear  ether ;  Pineapple  ether ;   Strawberry  ether ; 
Preparation  of  fruit  essences  ;    Apple  essence ;    Apricot 
essence  ..........     216 

Cherry  essence ;  Currant  essence ;   Grape  essence ;   Lemon 
essence ;  Melon  essence ;  Orange  essence  ;  Peach  essence ; 
Pear  essence  ;  Pineapple  essence ;  Plum  essence      .         .217 
Raspberry  essence ;  Strawberry  essence      .         .         .         .218 


CONTENTS.  Xlll 

CHAPTER  VIIL 

ALCOHOLIC   PERFUMES. 

PACK 

Division  of  alcoholic  perfumes ;  What  constitutes  the.  art 
of  the  perfumer ;  Qualities  of  flower-pomades  and  their, 

designation 219 

Storage  of  flower-pomades  ;  Extraction  of  flower-pomades       220 
Apparatus  for  making  alcoholic  extracts  from  flower-pom- 
ades, illustrated  and  described          .         .         .          .          .221 
Beyer  freres  improved  apparatus,  illustrated  and  described       223 
Tinctures  and  extracts  and  their  preparation        .         .          .     225 
Beyer  freres  apparatus  for  the  preparation  of  tinctures,  illus- 
trated and  described        .          .         .         .         .         .         .226 

Musk  tincture  ;  Civet  tincture 228 

Ambergris   tincture ;    Castor   tincture ;     Benzoin   tincture ; 

Peru  balsam  tincture ;  Tolu  balsam  tincture     .          .         .     229 
Olibanum  tincture  ;    Opopanax  tincture  ;    Storax  tincture  ; 

Myrrh  tincture ;  Musk-seed  or  abelmosk  tincture      .          .     230 
Angelica  root  tincture ;    Orris-root  tincture ;    Musk-root  or 

sumbul-root  tincture ;  Tonka-bean  tincture      .         .         .231 
Cumarin  tincture;    Heliotropin  tincture;   Vanilla  tincture; 

Vanillin  tincture .          .232 

Vitivert  tincture  ;  Juniper-berry  tincture;  Patchouli  extract     233 
Tinctures  from  volatile  oils ;   Almond-oil  (bitter)  tincture ; 
Balm-oil  tincture  ;    Bergamot-oil   tincture  ;    Canango-oil 

tincture 234 

Cassia-oil  tincture ;  Cedar-oil  tincture ;  Cinnamon-oil  tinc- 
ture ;  Citronella-oil  tincture ;  Clove-oil  tincture ;  Eucalyp- 
tus-oil tincture ;  Geranium-oil  tincture ;  Lavender-oil 
tincture  ;  Lemon- grass- oil  tincture  ;  Lemon -oil  tincture  ; 
Licari-oil  tincture ;  Myrrh-oil  tincture ;  Neroli-oil  tinc- 
ture ;  Opopanax-oil  tincture ;  Orris-root-oil  tincture ; 

Patchouli-oil  tincture 235 

Petit-grain-oil  tincture  ;  Pine-leaf-oil  tincture  ;  Portugal-oil 
tincture  ;  Sandal- wood-oil  tincture ;  Verbena-oil  tincture  ; 
Vitivert-oil  tincture ;  Wintergreen-oil  tincture ;  Ylang- 
ylang-oil  tincture  ;  Rose-oil  tincture  ....  236 


XIV  CONTENTS. 


Extraits  aux  fleurs ;  Extrait  acacia ;  Extrait  cassie ;  Extrait 
heliotrope;  Extrait jacinthe  .  .  .  .  .  .237 

Extrait  jasmin ;  Essence  of  the  odor  of  linden  blossoms ; 
Extrait  jonquille  ;  Extrait  magnolia ;  Extrait  muguet 
(lily  of  the  valley)  ;  Extrait  fleurs  de  Mai  (May  flowers)  238 

Extrait  ixora  ;  Extrait  orange ;  Extrait  white  rose ;  Extrait 
rose  v.  d.  centifolie ;  Extrait  violette  ;  Coloring  substance 
for  extraits  ;  Extrait  de  violette  de  Panne  .  .  .239 

Extrait  tubereuse  ;  Extrait  re^da  ;  Extrait  ylang-ylang ; 
Compound  odors  (bouquets)  ;  Extrait  Edelweiss;  Extrait 
ess-bouquet  .........  240 

Extrait  spring  flower ;  Extrait  bouquet  Eugenie ;  Extrait 
excelsior;  Extrait  Frangipani ;  Ex  trait  jockey  club  .  241 

Extrait  opopanax  ;   Extrait  patchouli ;  Extrait  millefleurs  ; 

Extrait  bouquet  Victoria         .          .          .          .  .     242 

Extrait  kiss-me-quick  ;  Extrait  mogadore  ;  Extract  bouquet 
Prince  Albert ;  Extrait  muse ;  Extrait  new-mown  hay  ; 
Extrait  chypre  .  .  ' .243 

Extrait  mar6chal ;  Extrait  mousseline ;  Extraits  triple  con- 
centres and  their  preparations  .....  244 

Concentrated  flower-extract  for  the  preparation  of  extraits 
d'Odeurs;  Extraits  d'Odeurs,  quality  II  .  .  .  .  245 

Extrait  violette   II  ;    Extrait  rose  II ;    Extrait  reseda  II ; 

Extrait  ylang-ylang  II    .         .          .         .         .         .         .246 

Extrait  new-mown  hay  II ;  Extrait  chypre  II ;  Extrait  ess- 
bouquet  II  247 

Extrait  muguet  II;    Extrait  bouquet  Victoria  II;    Extrait 
spring  flower  II ;   Extrait  ixora  II  .          .         .         .     248 

Extrait  Frangipani  II ;  Cologne  water  (eau  de  Cologne)  and 
its  preparation 249 

Durability  of  the  volatile  oils  used  in  the  preparation  of 
Cologne  water  .  .  .  .  .  .  .  .  250 

Cologne  water,  quality  I     .         .         .         .         .         .         .252 

Cologne  water,  quality  II ;  Cologne  water,  quality  III ; 
Cologne  water,  quality  IV;  Cologne  water,  quality  V  .  253 

Maiglb'ekchen  eau  de  Cologne ;  Various  other  receipts  for 
Cologne  water  .  .  .  .  .  .  .  .  254 


CONTENTS.  XV 

PAGE 

Eau  de  Lavande ;  Eau  de  vie  de  Lavande  double  ambree ; 
Eau  de  Lavande  double  ;  Aqua  mellis  ;  Eau  de  Lisbonne  255 

CHAPTER  IX. 

DRY    PERFUMES. 

Use  of  dry  perfumes  in  ancient  times  ;  Sachet  powders  and 
their  preparation  ........  256 

Sachet  a.  la  rose ;  Sachet  &  la  violette ;  Heliotrope  sachet 
powder;  Ylang-ylang  sachet  powder ;  Jockey  club  sachet  257 

Sachet  aux  millefleurs ;  Lily  of  the  valley  sachet  powder ; 
Patchouli  sachet  powder ;  Frangipani  sachet  powder ; 
Victoria  sachet  powder  ;  Reseda  sachet  powder  .  .  258 

Musk  sachet  powder;  Ess-bouquet  sachet  ponder;  New- 
mown  hay  sachet  powder  ;  Orange  sachet  powder ;  Solid 
perfumes  with  paraffine ;  White  rose  .  ...  .  259 

Ess-bouquet;  Lavender  odor;  Eau  de  Cologne;  Smelling 
salts;  Preston  salt  and  "  menthol  pungent"  as  prepared 
by  William  W.  Bartlett ;  White  smelling  salt  .  .  260 

CHAPTER  X. 

FUMIGATING   ESSENCES,   PASTILLES,  POWDERS,  ETC. 

>/ 

Constitution  of  fumigating  agents ;  Object  of  fumigating ; 
Prejudice  against  fumigating  ;  Mode  of  fumigating  .  .  262 

Atomizers  ;   Objections  to  dry  fumigating  agents          .         .     263 

Fumigating  essences  and  vinegars  ;  Rose-flower  fumigating 
essence  ;  Flower  fumigating  essence — heliotrope  .  .  264 

Violet-flower  fumigating  essence  ;  Oriental  flower  fumigating 
essence  ;  Pine  odor  (for  atomizing)  ;  Juniper  odor ;  fumi- 
gating balsam  ........  265 

Fumigating  water  ;  Fumigating  vinegar  ;  Fumigating  pow- 
ders ;  Ordinary  fumigating  powder  .  .  .  .266 

Rose  fumigating  powder ;  Violet  fumigating  powder  ;  Orange 
fumigating  powder  ;  New-mown  hay  fumigating  powder  .  267 

Fumigating  paper  ;   Fumigating  pastilles     ....     268 


XVI  CONTENTS. 


Ordinary  red  fumigating  pastilles ;  Ordinary  black  fumigating 

pastilles;  Musk  fumigating  pastilles  ....  269' 

Rose  fumigating  pastilles  ;  Violet  fumigating  pastilles ;  Mille- 

fleurs  fumigating  pastilles ;  Fumigating  lacquer  .  .270  y 

CHAPTER  XL 

DENTIFRICES,  MOUTH-WATERS,   ETC. 

Selection  of  materials  for  and  compounding  of  dentifrices    .     272 
Soap  as  a  constituent  of  dentifrices  ;  Value  of  thymol  for  den- 
tifrices ;   Object  of  glycerin  in  dentifrices         .          .          .273 
Tooth  and  mouth  waters  ;  Thymol  tooth-water  ;   Eau  denti- 
frice Botot ;  Eau  dentifrice  Orientale       .         .         .          .274 
Violet  mouth- water  ;   Antiseptic  gargle  ;  Odontine  ;    Sozo- 

dont ;  Eau  de  Botot  (improved) 275 

Quinine  tooth- water ;  Dr.  StahPs  tooth-tincture  ;  Esprit  de 

menthe  ;  Arnica  tooth-tincture  ;  Myrrh  tooth-tincture  .  276 
Tooth-pastes  and  tooth-powders  ;  tooth-paste  or  odontine  .  277 
Thymol  tooth-paste ;  Cherry  tooth-paste ;  Non-fermenting 

cherry  tooth-paste ;   Odontine  paste          ....     278 
Thymol  tooth-powder ;    Poudre   dentifrice ;    Violet  tooth- 
powder  279 

Dr.  Hufeland's  tooth-powder  ;  White  tooth-powder  ;  Black 
tooth-powder;  Poudre  de  corail ;  Camphor  tooth-powder; 
Opiat  liquide  pour  les  dents     ......     280 

Poudre  d'Algerine    *.         .         .'      .         .         .         .         .281 

Dr.  Hufeland's  tooth-soap  .         .         ....     282 

Tooth-soap ;  Saponaceous  tooth-wash          .         .         .         .     283 

CHAPTER  XII. 

HAIR  POMADES,  HAIR  OILS,  AND  HAIR  TONICS;    HAIR 
DYES  AND  DEPILATORIES. 

Fats  used  for  the  preparation  of  pomades ;   Reputation  of 

some  fats  as  hair  pomades 284 

Pomades  and  their  preparation  ;   Purification  of  the  fat        .     285 
Substances  used  for  coloring  pomades  ;  Fine  French  pomades 
(flower-pomades)  ;  Maceration  or  extraction  of  the  flowers     286 


CONTENTS.  XV11 

PAGE 

Receipts  for  some  flower- pomades;  Pommade  &  la  rose; 
Pommade  £  1' acacia;  Pommade  &  la  fleur  d' orange; 
Pommade  &  1' heliotrope 287 

Pomades  according  to  the  German  method  and  their  prepa- 
ration ;  Foundations  for  white  pomades  .  .  .  288 

Apple  pomade;  Bear's  grease  pomade;  Quinine  po- 
mades  289 

Quinine  pomades  (imitation)  ;  Benzoin  pomade  ;  Densdorf 
pomade  ;  Ice  pomades  ;  Family  pomades  .  .  .  290 

Strawberry  pomade ;  Fine  hair  pomade ;  Pomade  for  pro- 
moting the  growth  of  the  hair ;  Heliotrope  pomades  .  291 

Jasmine  pomade ;  Emperor  pomade ;  Macassar  pomade  ; 
Portugal  pomade ;  Herb  pomade  ;  Lanolin  pomade  .  292 

Oriental  pomade ;  Paraffin  ice  pomade ;  Neroli  pomade  ; 
Cheap  pomade  (red,  yellow,  white)  ;  Mignonette  pomade  ; 
Castor  oil  pomades ;  Princess  pomade  .  .  .  .293 

Fine  pomade  ;  Beef-marrow  pomade  ;  Rogers' s  pomade  for 
producing  a  beard  ;  Rose  pomade ;  Fine  rose  pomade ; 
Finest  rose  pomade  ;  Salicylic  pomade  ;  Victoria  pomade ; 
Tonka  pomade  .  .  .  .  .  .  .  294 

Fine  vanilla  pomade ;  Vanilla  pomade  ;  Violet  pomade ; 
Walnut  pomade ;  Vaseline  pomades  .  .  .  295 

Foundations  for  vaseline  pomades;  Bouquet  vaseline  po- 
made ;  Family  vaseline  pomade  ;  Lily  of  the  valley  vase- 
line pomade  ;  Neroli  vaseline  pomade  ....  296 

Mignonette  vaseline  pomade;  Portugal  vaseline  pomade; 
Rose  vaseline  pomades  ;  Fine  vaseline  pomade  (yellow)  ; 
Vaseline  pomade  (red)  ;  Vaseline  pomade  (white)  ;  Vir- 
ginia vaseline  pomade ;  Victoria  vaseline  pomade  .  .  297 

Extra  fine  vaseline  pomade;  Stick  pomades;  Foundations 
for  stick  pomades  ;  Manufacture  of  stick  pomades  .  .298 

Rose-wax  pomade ;  Black- wax  pomade  ;  Blonde- wax  po- 
made ;  Brown- wax  pomade  ......  299 

Cheap  wax  pomades ;  Resin  pomades  ;  Hair  oils ;  Huiles 
antiques ;  Vaseline  oil  for  hair  oils ;  Treatment  of  oils 
with  benzoin  .  .  .  300 


xvin  CONTENTS, 

PAGE 

Preparation  of  huiles  antiques;  Huile  antique  it  la  rose; 
Huile  antique  au  jasmin ;   Alpine  herb  oil ;  Flower  hair 
oil;  Peruvian  bark  hair  oil      .          .          .          .         .          .301 

Peru  hair  oil ;  Burdock  root  hair  oils ;  Macassar  hair  oils  ; 

Neroli  hair  oil ;  Mignonette  hair  oils  ;  Fine  hair  oil  .     302 

Cheap  hair  oil  (red  or  yellow)  ;  Portugal  hair  oil ;  Jasmine 
hair  oil ;    Vaseline  hair  oils  ;    Vanilla  hair  oil ;    Ylang- 
ylang  hair  oil ;   Philocome  hair  oil    .          .          .          .         .     303 

Sultana  hair  oil ;  Rose  hair  oil ;  Tonka  hair  oil ;   Violet  hair 
oil ;  Victoria  hair  oil ;   Cheap  hair  oils ;    Bandolines  and 
their  preparation     .  .          .         .          .         .         .     304 

Rose  bandoline  ;  Almond  bandoline ;  Brilliantine        .         .     305 
Flower  brilliantine  No.  1  ;  Brilliantine  No.  2  .         .     306 

Brilliantine  No.  3  ;   Various  formulas  for  brilliantine   .         .307 
Hair  tonics ;  Eau  Athenienne ;   Florida  water     .         ,         .     308 
Eau  de  Cologne  hair  tonic  ;  Eau  de  quinine        .         .         .     309 
Eau  de  quinine  (imitation)  ;    Honey  water ;    Glycerin  hair 

tonic;   Eau  lustral  (hair  restorative)  ;   Tea  hair  tonic        .     310 
Locoek's  lotion  for  the  hair;    Shampoo  lotion;    Shampoo 
liquid     .         .         ...          .         ,         .         .          .311 

Dandruff' cures ;  Dandruff  lotion ;  Bay  rum    .-.         ,         .     312 
Directions  for  preparing  bay  rum         .         r         .         .    :      .     313 
Hair  dyes;    Requirements   of  a  good  hair  dye;    Gradual 
darkening  of  the  hair ;  Use  of  dilute  acids  for  making  the 

hair  lighter 314 

Use  of  lead  salts,  nitrate  of  silver,  and  copper  salts  for  dye- 
ing the  hair 315 

Iron  salts  for  dying  the  hair ;   Rastikopetra,  a  Turkish  hair 
dye ;  Use  of  potassium  permanganate  and  pyrogallic  acid 
for  dyeing  the  hair          .         .         .         .         .         .         .316 

Kohol,  an  Egyptian  hair  dye ;  The  use  of  henna  as  a  hair 

dye;  Process  of  coloring  hair,  dyed  red  with  henna,  black     317 
Use  of  the  juice  of  green  walnut  shells  for  coloring  the  hair; 
Bleaching  the  hair  with  peroxide  of  hydrogen  ;   Formulae 
for  hair  dyes  .         .         .         .         .         .         .         .318 

Single   hair  dyes ;    Teinture  Orientale  (Karsi) ;    Teinture 
Chinoise  (Kohol) 319 


CONTENTS.  XIX 

PAGK 

Potassium  permanganate  hair  dye;  Bismuth  hair  dye;  Wal- 
nut hair  dye  ;  Pyrogallic  hair  stain  ....  320 

Double  hair  dyes;  For  dyeing  brown;  For  dyeing  black; 
Tannin  hair  dye 321 

Melanogfene ;  Eau  d'Afrique;  Krinochrom ;  Copper  hair 
dye;  Depilatories;  Rhusma  ......  322 

Boettger's  depilatory  ;  Bartholow's  depilatory     .         .         .323 

CHAPTER  XIII. 

COSMETICS. 

Skin  cosmetics;   Toilet  vinegars;  Vinaigre  de  Bully ;  Vin- 

aigre  de  toilette  a  la  rose ;  Vinaigre  de  toilette  &  la  vio- 

lette 324 

Vinaigre  de  toilette  heliotrope ;  Vinaigre  de  toilette  orange ; 

Vinaigre  de  toilette  ;  Aromatic  vinegar;  English  aromatic 

vinegar  .          .         .          .         .          .         .          .          .325 

Toilet  vinegar;  Washes;  Virginal  milk  (Lait  virginal); 

Rose  milk  (Lait  de  rose) 326 

Almond  milk  (Lait  d'amandes  ameres)  ....  327 
Lily  milk  (Lait  de  lys)  ;  Perfumed  glycerin  with  rose  odor ; 

Perfumed  glycerin  with  fruit  odor;   Perfumed  meals  and 

pastes;  Farm  de  noisette  (nut  meal)  ....  328 
Farin  d'amandes  ameres  (almond  meal)  ;  Pate  d'amandes 

au  miel  (honey  almond  paste) ;  Poudre  de  riz  &  la  rose  .  329 
Poudre  de  riz  heliotrope ;  Poudre  de  riz  orange ;  Poudre  de 

riz  muguet      .........     330 

Poudre  de  riz  ixora;  Poudre  de  riz  bouquet;  Cold  creams 

and  lip  salves ;  Cold  cream ;  Vaseline  cold  cream  .  .331 
Glycerin  cream ;  CrSme  de  concombre ;  Glycerin  gelee ; 

Glycerin  jelly 332 

Cream  of  roses  ;  Boroglycerin  cream ;  Recamier  cream  ; 

Preparations  for  chapped  hands  .  .  .  .  .333 
Wash  for  the  hands ;  Nail  powder;  Lip-salves  .  .  .  334 
Paints;  Pulverulent  paints  (powders);  u Blanc  fard"  or 

"  Blanc  francais" 335 


XX  CONTENTS. 

PAGE 

Mixtures  for  powders ;    Coloring  substances  for  powders ; 
Powder  for  coloring  intensely  red  ;    Solid  paints ;    Ordi- 
nary red  paint  (rouge)    .         .         .         .         .         .         .  336 

Fine  red  paint  (rouge)  ;  White  paint ;  Preparation  of  paints  337 

Red  stick-paint  (stick  rouge) ;  Moulding  the  rouge  into  sticks  339 
White  stick-paint ;  Rouge  en  feuilles ;  Liquid  paints ;  Liquid 

rouge 340 

White  liquid  paint ;   Fat  paints 341 

Cr@me  de  Lys  ;   CrSme  de  rose  .          .         ..  •      ;          .         .  342 

INDEX  343 


UNIVERSITY 


A  PRACTICAL  TREATISE 


MANUFACTURE  OF  PERFUMERY, 


CHAPTER  I. 

HISTORICAL   NOTICE   OF   PERFUMERY. 

NATURE  has  implanted  in  man  the  instinct  of  finding 
the  odor  accompanying  decay  and  putrefaction  insuffer- 
able, of  fleeing  from  it,  and  of  going  in  quest  of  fragrant 
odors.  Hence,  in  ancient  times,  perfume  substances 
were  highly  esteemed,  and  an  offering  of  them  was 
considered  a  sign  of  the  most  profound  reverence  and 
homage.  The  early  nations  of  the  Orient  especially 
used  perfume  substances  in  such  profusion  that  the  con- 
sumption of  them  by  the  finest  lady  of  to-day  must  be 
called  a  comparatively  moderate  one.  This  may,  how- 
ever, be  readily  explained,  for,  on  the  one  hand,  the 
majority  of  plants  which  produce  the  most  agreeable 
perfumes  in  larger  quantity  are  indigenous  to  the 
Orient ;  and,  on  the  other,  the  excessive  exhalations 
from  the  human  body,  caused  by  the  hot  climate,  forced 
the  people  to  search  for  means  to  remove,  or  at  least  to 
cover,  the  disagreeable  odor  arising  therefrom. 

ce  fragrant  odors  were  agreeable  to  human  beings, 
2 


18  MANUFACTURE   OF   PERFUMERY. 

it  was  believed  that  they  must  be  welcome  also  to  the 
gods,  and,  to  honor  them,  per  fume  substances  were  turned 
upon  the  altars.  Besides,  as  an  offering  to  the  gods,  per- 
fume substances  were  extensively  used  by  many  nations, 
especially  by  the  Egyptians,  for  embalming  the  dead,  the 
process  employed  by  the  latter  having  been  transmitted 
io  us  by  the  ancient  authors  Herodotus  and  Diodorus. 

Furthermore,  a  desire  for  ornamentation  and  to  give 
to  the  face  and  body  as  pleasing  an  appearance  as  pos- 
sible, is  common  to  all  mankind.  To  be  sure,  the  ideas 
of  what  constitutes  beauty  in  this  respect  have  varied 
at  different  times  and  among  the  various  nations.  But, 
independent  of  the  savage  races,  who  consider  painting 
and  tattooing  the  body  and  face  an  embellishment, 
and  taking  into  consideration  only  the  earliest  civilized 
nations,  it  is  astonishing  how  many  arts  of  the  toilet 
have  been  preserved  from  the  most  ancient  historical 
times  up  to  the  present.  "  In  the  most  ancient  histori- 
cal times,  people  perfumed  and  painted,  frizzed,  curled, 
and  dyed  the  hair  as  at  present,  and,  in  fact,  the  same 
cosmetics,  only  slightly  augmented,  which  were  in  use 
hundreds,  nay,  thousands,  of  years  ago  are  still  employed 
to-day."*  It  is  especially  woman,  who  everywhere  exer- 
cises the  arts  of  the  toilet,  while,  with  the  exception  of 
perfumes  and  agents  for  the  hair,  man  is  but  seldom 
referred  to  as  making  use  of  cosmetics.  The  young 
girls  of  ancient  Egypt  used  red  and  white  paints,  colored 
their  pale  lips,  and  anointed  their  hair  with  sweet- 
scented  oils ;  they  dyed  their  eyelashes  and  eyelids  black 
to  impart  a  brighter  lustre  to  the  glance  of  the  eye,  and 

*  Paschkis,  Kosmetik  fur  Aerzte.  Wien,  1890. 


HISTORICAL    NOTICE    OF    PERFUMERY.  19 

the  mother  of  the  wife  of  the  first  king  of  Egypt  is  said 
to  have  already  composed  a  receipt  for  a  hair-dye. 
4^From  the  Egyptians,  the  practices  of  the  toilet,  like 
many  other  things,  were  transmitted  to  the  Jews.  In 
Egypt,  the  Hebrew  woman  had  known  the  sweet-scented 
flower  of  the  henna  bush,  and,  finding  it  also  in  Judea,  it 
served  her  as  a  perfume.  In  the  Bible  the  henna  flower 
is  called  kopher,  in  Greek  kypros,  and  the  Cyprian  salve, 
mentioned  by  Pliny,  was  prepared  by  boiling  henna 
flowers  in  oil  and  then  expressing  them. 

Painting  the  face  was  also  practised  by  the  Hebrew 
women,  reference  being  made  to  it  in  II.  Kings  ix.  30, 
and  Jeremiah  v.  30,  while  painting  of  the  eyes  is  men- 
tioned in  Ezekiel  xxiii.  40. 

/The  number  of  perfume  substances  known  to  the 
ancient  Hebrews  was  but  a  limited  one,  they  consisting, 
besides  the  above-mentioned  henna  flower,  chiefly  of  a 
few  gum-resins,  especially  bdellium,  olibanum  and 
myrrh. 

""In  ancient  times  olibanum  was,  without  doubt,  the 
most  important  perfume-substance.  It  was  introduced 
into  commerce  by  the  Phenicians,  and,  like  many  other 
substances,  it  received  from  them  its  name,  which  was 
adopted  by  other  nations.  Thus,  the  Hebrews  called 
the  tree  lebonah,  the  Arabs,  lubah,  while  the  Greeks 
named  it,  Mj3ai>6$,  and  the  resin  derived  from  it,  the  cele- 
brated frankincense  of  the  ancients,  iipavot oj,  Latin,  oli- 
banum. Regarding  the  mode  of  gaining  the  olibanum, 
some  curious  ideas  prevailed  in  ancient  times.  Thus, 
Herodotus  writes  :  "  Arabia  is  the  only  country  in  which 
olibanum  grows,  as  well  as  myrrh,  cassia,  cinnamon  and 
lederum.  With  the  exception  of  myrrh,  the  Arabs 


20  MANUFACTURE   OF   PERFUMERY. 

encounter  many  difficulties  in  procuring  these  products. 
Olibanum  they  obtain  by  burning  styrax,  for  every  oli- 
banum tree  is  guarded  by  a  number  of  small-sized 
winged  serpents  of  a  variegated  appearance,  which  can 
be  driven  away  by  nothing  but  styrax  vapors."  Accord- 
ing to  Pliny,  who  gives  a  very  full  account  of  olibanum, 
Arabia  felix  received  its  by-name  from  the  abundance  of 
olibanum  and  myrrh  found  there.  He  states  that  oli- 
banum grows  in  no  other  country  besides  Arabia,  but  it 
is  not  found  in  every  part  of  it.  About  in  the  centre, 
upon  a  high  mountain,  he  continues,  is  the  country  of 
the  Atramites,  a  province  of  the  Sabeans,  from  which  the 
olibanum  region  is  distant  about  eight  days'  journey. 
It  is  called  Saba  and  is  everywhere  rendered  inaccessible 
by  mountains,  a  narrow  defile,  through  which  the  export 
is  carried  on,  leading  into  an  adjoining  province  inhabited 
by  the  Mineans.  In  Saba  itself  were  not  more  than 
300  families,  called  the  saints,  who  claimed  the  cultiva- 
tion of  olibanum  as  a  right  of  heritage.  When  making 
the  incisions  in  the  trees,  and  while  gathering  the  oliba- 
num, the  men  were  prohibited  from  having  intercourse 
with  women  and  from  attending  funerals.  Notwithstand- 
ing the  fact  that  the  Romans  carried  on  war  in  Arabia, 
none  of  them  had  ever  seen  an  olibanum  tree.  When 
there  was  less  chance  of  selling  the  olibanum.  it  was 
gathered  but  once  in  the  year,  but  since  the  increase  in 
the  demand,  it  was  gathered  twice,  first  in  the  fall  and 
again  in  the  spring,  the  incisions  in  the  trees  having  been 
made  during  the  winter.  The  collected  olibanum  was 
brought  upon  camels  to  Sabota,  where  one  gate  was  open 
for  its  reception ;  to  turn  from  the  road  was  prohibited 
under  penalty  of  death.  The  priests  took  one-tenth  by 


HISTORICAL   NOTICE   OF   PERFUMERY.  21 

measure  for  the  god  Sabin,  sales  not  being  allowed  until 
their  claim  was  satisfied.  The  olibanum  could  be. ex- 
ported only  through  the  territory  of  the  Gebanites,  whose 
King  also  levied  tribute. 

Pliny  further  states  that  the  Arabs  did  not  steal  one 
from  another,  but  for  fear  of  loss  those  employed  in  the 
stores  of  Alexandria  were  forced  to  go  naked  with  the 
exception  of  a  clout  which  was  sealed.  A  mask  and  a 
thick  net  were  thrown  over  the  head. 

To  us  the  practice  of  anointing  the  entire  body,  cus- 
tomary among  the  ancients,  appears  very  singular.  Old 
Egyptian  sculptures  represent  the  guests  being  anointed 
at  the  meal.  Among  the  Jews  we  find  a  holy  oil  with 
which  Aaron  and  his  sons  were  anointed  to  consecrate 
them  to  the  priesthood,  Moses  prescribing  for  this  holy 
anointing  oil,  myrrh,  cinnamon,  calamus,  and  oil  from 
the  olive  tree.  Other  persons  were  prohibited  from 
imitating  or  using  this  holy  oil.  The  anointing  of 
kings  was  introduced  later  on.  Though  it  was  pro- 
hibited to  imitate  and  use  the  holy  oil,  this  prohibition 
did  not  refer  to  anointing  with  oil  in  general. 

That  the  Greeks  also  set  a  high  value  upon  anointing 
with  oil  is  plainly  seen  from  Homer.  When  Telem- 
achus  visited  Nestor,  Polycaste,  Nestor's  youngest 
daughter,  bathed  him  and  anointed  him  with  oil,  and 
when  he  was  the  guest  of  Menelaus,  the  maids  of  the 
latter  performed  the  same  service  for  him,  while  for 
Ulysses  returning  as  a  beggar,  the  aged  Euryclea  pre- 
pared a  foot-bath  and  anointed  him. 

By  the  addition  of  fragrant  substances  to  the  oil, 
the  sweet-scented  ointment,  myron,  originated.  While 
the  anointing  with  simple  oil  evidently  served  as 


22  MANUFACTURE   OF    PERFUMERY. 

a  hygienic  measure  after  the  bath,  and  especially  for 
men  in  the  gymnasium,  and  before  a  combat,  with  the 
Greeks,  ointments  were  an  article  of  luxury.  In 
Socrates7  time  the  use  of  sweet-scented  ointments  had 
reached  such  an  extent,  that  Xenophon  caused  him  to 
speak  against  it,  but,  as  is  the  case  with  all  such  lectures 
against  fashion,  without  the  slightest  success.  In 
Athens  the  luxury  was  carried  so  far  that  the  bacchana- 
lians anointed  each  part  of  their  body  with  a  special 
ointment.  The  oil  extracted  from  the  palm  was 
thought  best  adapted  to  the  cheeks  and  the  breasts ;  the 
arms  were  refreshed  with  balsam-mint ;  sweet  marjoram 
supplied  an  oil  for  the  hair  and  eyebrows ;  and  wild 
thyme  for  the  knee  and  neck.  Although  to  us  it  would 
be  repugnant  to  have  the  entire  body  anointed,  in 
s  it  was  considered  beautiful  to  be  glossy  with 
ointments.  It  is  said  of  Demetrius  Phalereus,  that  in 
order  to  appear  more  captivating,  he  dyed  his  hair 
yellow,  and  anointed  the  face  and  the  rest  of  his  body. 

From  the  Asiatics  and  Greeks  the  Romans  also 
learned  the  use  of  ointments.  Pliny  cannot  say  at 
what  time  they  were  introduced  in  Rome,  but  states 
that  after  the  conquest  of  Asia  and  the  defeat  of  the 
King,  Antiochus,  in  the  year  565,  after  the  building  of 
Rome,  the  censors  issued  an  edict  prohibiting  the  sale  of 
foreign  ointments.  However,  this  edict  was  of  no  use, 
and  the  practice  spread  more  and  more,  Pliny  speaking 
very  bitterly  about  it.  Regarding  this  extravagance  in 
ointments,  Plutarch  says :  "  Frankincense,  cinnamon, 
spikenard,  and  Arabian  calamus  are  mixed  together 
with  the  most  careful  art  and  sold  for  large  sums.  It 
is  an  effeminate  pleasure  and  has  spoiled  not  only  the 


HISTORICAL   NOTICE   OF   PERFUMERY.  23 

women  but  also  the  men,  who  will  not  sleep  even  with 
their  own  wives  if  they  do  not  smell  of  ointments  and 
powders."  Plutarch  further  mentions  an  incident  which 
must  have  created  a  sensation  even  in  luxurious  Rome, 
as  otherwise  it  would  scarcely  have  been  chronicled  for 
the  benefit  of  posterity.  Nero  one  day  anointed  him- 
self with  costly  ointments  and  scattered  some  of  them 
over  Otho.  The  next  day  Otho  gave  Nero  a  banquet, 
and  laid  in  all  directions  gold  and  silver  tubes,  which 
poured  forth  expensive  ointments  like  water,  thoroughly 
saturating  the  guests. 

Directions  for  preparing  ointments  are  contained  in 
Theophrastus's  work  "  On  Perfumes,"  in  Dioscorides's 
"  Medica  materia,"  and  Pliny's  "  Historia  naturalis." 
Dioscorides's  receipts  are  the  fullest.  According  to  Pliny, 
a  distinction  was  made  between  the  juice  and  the  body, 
the  latter  consisting  of  the  fat  oils  and  the  former  of  the 
sweet-scented  substances.  In  preparing  the  ointments, 
the  oil  together  with  the  perfuming  substances  were 
heated  in  the  water-bath.  For  instance,  rose  ointment 
was,  according  to  Dioscorides,  prepared  by  mixing 
5J  Ibs.  of  bruised  Andropogon  Schoenanthus  with  a  little 
water,  then  adding  20J  Ibs.  of  oil  and  heating.  After 
heating  the  oil  was  filtered  off,  and  the  petals  of  one 
thousand  roses  were  thrown  into  the  oil,  the  hands  with 
which  the  rose  leaves  were  pressed  into  the  oil  being 
previously  coated  with  honey.  When  the  whole  had 
stood  for  one  night,  the  oil  was  strained  off  and  when 
all  impurities  had  settled,  it  was  brought  into  another 
vessel  and  fresh  rose  leaves  introduced,  the  operation 
being  several  times  repeated.  However,  according  to 
the  opinion  of  the  ancient  ointment  makers,  no  more 


24  MANUFACTURE   OF   PERFUMERY. 

odor  was  absorbed  by  the  oil  after  the  seventh  introduc- 
tion of  rose  leaves.  To  fix  the  odor,  resins  or  gums 
were  added  to  the  ointments. 

A,,  process  of  distilling  volatile  oils  was  also  known, 
the  odoriferous  matter  being  caught  by  spreading  wool 
over  the  heated  perfume-substances.  The  wool  was 
afterwards  subjected  to  pressure.  This  process,  of 
course,  involved  great  loss^and  was  available  only  for 
substances  containing  much  volatile  oil. 

Dioscorides  also  gives  directions  for  making  animal  fats 
suitable  for  the  reception  of  perfumes.  Beef-tallow,  deer- 
fat,  or  the  marrow  of  animals  was  freed  from  all  mem- 
branes, melted  together  with  a  little  salt  in  an  entirely 
new  vessel,  and  then  poured  into  clean  water,  where  it 
was  washed  by  rubbing  with  the  hands,  the  water  being 
frequently  renewed.  Then  it  was  boiled  with  equal 
parts  of  sweet-scented  wine,  and  after  taking  it  from 
the  fire  it  was  allowed  to  stand  over  night.  The  next 
day  the  cold  fat  was  again  boiled  in  a  new  vessel,  with 
sweet-scented  wine,  this  operation  being  repeated  until 
the  fat  had  lost  every  trace  of  disagreeable  odor,  when 
it  was  brought  in  contact  with  the  perfumes. 

The  consumption  of  perfume-substances  by  the  an- 
cient Romans  must  have  been  enormous.  The  trade  of 
the  ointment  makers  (ungenlarii)  was  so  extensive  that 
the  large  street  Seplasia  in  old  Capua  was  entirely 
taken  up  by  it,  and  the  business  must  have  paid  well 
since  the  prices  realized  were  very  high.  ^  However,  in 
ancient  times  the  business  cannot  have  been  very  agree- 
able, at  least  not  in  Greece,  as  shown  by  a  passage  in 
Plutarch's  Life  of  Pericles :  "  We  take  pleasure  in 


HISTORICAL   NOTICE   OF   PERFUMERY.  25 

ointments  and  purple,  but  consider  the  dyers  and  oint- 
ment makers  bondsmen  and  mechanics." 

Red  and  white  paints,  in  the  form  of  powder  as  well 
as  of  paste,  were  extensively  used  by  the  Roman  ladies. 
Chalk  and  white  lead  served  for  white  paint,  and 
minium  and  carmine  for  red.  Lovers  preferred  white 
paints,  a  pale  color  being  more  becoming  to  them  : — 

"  Palleat  omnis  amans  ;  hie  est 
color  aptus  amaiati." — (Ovid.) 

For  black  paints  for  the  eyebrows  roasted  ant  eggs  ^ 
or  soot  were  used. 

The  Roman  ladies  paid  as  much  attention  to  their 
natural,  and  also  false,  hair  as  the  fair  ones  of  to-day. 
They  curled  their  hair  with  heated  iron  instruments, 
and  perfumed  them  with  fragrant  oil.  If  from  age, 
sorrow,  or  other  reasons,  the  hair  was  no  longer  black, 
it  was  dyed,  and  it  seems  that  a  considerable  number  of 
hair-dyes  were  known  in  Rome,  amongst  them  some 
which  are  still  employed  to-day,  such  as  green  nut- 
shells and  acetate  of  lead. 

^Vfter  the  Romans  had  seen  the  blonde  German 
maidens,  blonde  and  red  hair  became  the  fashion.  To 
dye  the  hair  blonde  sharp  alkaline  soaps  were  chiefly 
used.  However,  this  or  some  other  hair-dye  seems  to 
have  been  very  injurious,  as  it  caused  the  hair  to  come 
out.  The  satirists  ridiculed  this  as  well  as  the  wigs, 
which  were  worn  by  men  and  women  to  hide  baldness, 
or  on  account  of  the  color  which  could  not  be  attained 
by  dyes. 

Depilatories  were  also  known  to  the  Romans,  the 
agents  employed  being  called  psilothrum  and  dropax. 


26  MANUFACTURE   OF   PERFUMERY. 

They  were  of  vegetable  origin,  but  it  is  not  exactly 
known  from  which  plants  they  were  derived. 

For  cleaning  the  teeth  the  Roman  ladies  used  a  den- 
tifrice which  does  not  seem  very  inviting  to  us.  It  con- 
sisted of  a  urine  imported  from  Spain  (dens  hiberna 
defricatus  urina).  To  perfume  the  breath  or  to  hide  its 
bad  odor,  mouth-washes,  perfumed  with  saffron,  roses, 
etc.,  were  used,  or  myrrh,  "mastic  from  Chios  or  per- 
fumed pastilles  were  chewed. 

We  know  but  little  regarding  the  use  of  perfumeries 
and  cosmetics  in  the  Middle  Ages.  In  the  wars  during 
the  migrations  of  the  nations,  but  little  thought  was 
very  likely  given  to  them,  but  as  soon  as  the  nations 
became  again  settled  and  made  sufficient  progress  in 
culture,  the  taste  for  perfumes  and  other  pleasures  of 
life  no  doubt  returned.  Our  knowledge  in  this  respect 
is  limited  to  what  is  contained  in  the  works  of  physi- 
cians of  the  first  centuries.  Later  on  we  find  receipts 
for  cosmetics  in  the  writings  of  Arabian  physicians, 
such  as  Rhazes  (end  of  the  9th  to  the  commencement  of 
the  10th  century),  Avicenna  (end  of  the  10th  to  the 
commencement  of  the  llth  century),  and  Mesue  (llth 
century).  To  the  llth  century  also  belong  the  works 
of  the  celebrated  Trotula,  "  De  mulierum  passionibus" 
"  Practica  Trotulae  mulieris  Salernitanae  de  cur  is  mulie- 
rum" and  "  Trotula  in  utilitatem  mulierum"  all  of  which 
contain  receipts  for  cosmetics.  In  the  14th  century  the 
most  celebrated  surgeon  of  the  Middle  Ages,  Guy  de 
Chanlios,  did  not  consider  it  beneath  his  dignity  to  de- 
«  vote  a  section  of  his  "  Grande  Chirurgie"  to  cosmestics. 
\  However,  it  was  only  in  the  16th  century  that  perfumes 
J  and  cosmetics  came  again  into  prominent  notice  in  Italy, 


HISTORICAL   NOTICE   OF   PERFUMERY.  27 


which  at  that  time  was  the  country  of  luxury  and  art. 
Giovanni  Marinello,*  a  physician,  in  1562  wrote  a 
work  on  "Cosmetics  for  Ladies,"  which  he  dedicated 
to  the  ladies  Victoria  and  Isabella  Palavicini.  In  the 
preface  the  author  expresses  the  opinion  that  it  is  only 
right  and  pleasing  to  God  to  place  the  gifts  bestowed  by 
him  in  a  proper  light  and  to  heighten  them.  He  then 
proceeds  to  give  perfumes  foT  various  purposes,  aromatic 
baths  to  keep  the  skin  young  and  fresh,  means  for  in- 
creasing the  stoutness  of  the  entire  body  and  of  separate 
limbs,  and  others  for  reducing  them.  He  further  recom- 
mends certain  remedies  for  making  large  eyes  small, 
and  small  ones  large.  The  chapter  on  the  hair  is  very 
fully  treated.  To  prevent  the  hair  from  coming  out, 
rubbing  with  oil,  and  then  washing  with  sorrel  and 
myrobalan  is  recommended.  For  promoting  the  growth 
of  the  hair,  the  use  of  dried  frogs,  lizards,  etc.,  rubbed 
to  a  powder,  is  prescribed.  Means  for  making  the  hair 
long  and  soft  and  curly  are  also  given,  and  others 
recommended  for  eyebrows  and  eyelashes.  As  depila- 
tories lime  and  orpiment  are  prescribed.  Paints  are  also 
classed  among  general  cosmetics.  Their  use  became  at 
this  time  more  and  more  fashionable,  and  not  only  the 
face,  but  also  the  breast  and  neck  were  painted.  ^ 

Catherine  of  Medici  and  Margaret  of  Valois  intro- 
duced these  arts  of  the  toilet  into  France.  That  coun- 
try soon  became  the  leader  in  this  respect,  and  for  many 
years  the  greatest  luxury  in  perfumes  and  cosmetics 
prevailed  there.  The  golden  age  for  these  articles  lasted 

*  Grli  ornament!  delle  donne,  tratti  dalle  seriture  d'una  Reina 
greca,  par  M.  Giovanni  Marinello  in  Venetia. 


28  MANUFACTURE   OF    PERFUMERY. 

from  the  commencement  of  the  seventeenth  to  the  mid- 
dle of  the  eighteenth  century,  during  which  time  the 
mouche  or  beauty  patch  also  flourished.  "  There  were  at 
that  time  hundreds  of  pastes,  essences,  cosmetics,  a  white 

-balsam,  a  water  to  make  the  face  red,  another  to  make  a 
coarse  complexion  delicate,  one  to  preserve  the  fine  com- 

,  plexion  of  lean  persons  and  again  one  to  make  the  face 
like  that  of  a  twenty-year  old  girl,  an  Eau  pour  nourir 
et  laver  les  teints  corrodes  and  Eau  de  chair  admirable 
pour  teints  jaunes  et  bilieux,  etc.  Then  there  were  Mou*- 
choirs  de  Venus,  further  bands  impregnated  with  wax 
to  cleanse  and  smooth  the  forehead ;  gold  leaf  was  even 
heated  in  a  lemon  over  a  fire  in  order  to  obtain  a  means 
which  should  impart  to  the  face  a  supernatural  bright- 
ness. For  the  hair,  teeth  and  nails  there  were  innu- 
merable receipts,  ointments,  etc.  However,  of  special 
importance  were  the  paints,  chemical  white,  blue  for  the 
veins,  but,  chief  of  all,  the  red  or  rouge,  mineral,  vege- 
table, or  cochineal.  The  application  of  rouge  was  at 
that  time  no  small  affair,  it  was  not  only  to  be  rouged, 
but  the  rouge  had  also  to  express  something — Le  grand 
point  est  d'avoir  un  rouge  qui  dise  quelque  chose.  The 
rouge  had  to  characterize  its  wearer ;  a  lady  of  rank  did 
not  wear  the  rouge  like  a  lady  of  the  court,  and  the  rouge 
of  the  wife  of  the  bourgeois  was  not  like  either  of  them 
nor  like  that  of  the  courtesan.  At  court  a  more  intense 
rouge  was  worn,  the  intensity  of  which  was  still  in- 
creased on  the  day  of  presentation,  it  being  then  Rouge 
dJEspagne  and  Rouge  de  Portugal  en  tasse.  It  may 
seem  incredible,  but  for  eight  days  a  violet  paint  was 
used  and  then  for  a  change  Rouge  de  Serkis.  Ladies, 
when  retiring  for  the  night  applied  a  light  rouge  (un 


HISTORICAL    NOTICE   OF   PERFUMERY.  29 

demi  rouge),  and  even  small  girls  wore  rouge,  such  being 
the  decree  of  fashion.  The  ladies  dyed  their  eyebrows 
and  eyelashes,  and  powdered  their  hair,  both  natural 
and  false,  for,  about  1750,  they  commenced  wearing 
wigs  and  chignons.  Powdering  was  done  partially  for 
the  purpose  of  dying  the  hair  after  dressing,  and  par- 
tially for  decoration  ;  white,  gray,  red  and  fiery  red 
ponders  were  in  vogue." 

To  that  time  fashion  also  ordained  an  ever-varying 
routine  in  the  employment  of  perfumes ;  so  that  the 
royal  apartments  were  one  day  fragrant  with  the  scent  of 
the  tuberose  and  the  next  with  that  of  amber  and  cloves  ; 
and  so  on  consecutively,  each  succeeding  day  bringing  a 
change  of  the  reigning  odor.  In  that  luxurious  age  the 
personal  use  of  perfumes  was  not  confined  to  the  fair 
sex,  but  the  effeminate  gallants  of  the  day  gloried  in 
perfuming  themselves  with  the  favorite  scents  of  their 
mistresses  or  of  prominent  belles ;  so  that  the  allegiance 
was  recognized,  not  as  in  more  chivalrous  times  by  the 
knight  wearing  the  colors  of  the  fair  one  who  had  en- 
slaved him,  but  by  his  smelling  of  the  particular  odor 
which  she  had  consecrated  to  herself. 

Philip  Augustus,  in  1190,  granted  a  charter  to  the 
French  perfumers,  who  had  formed  a  guild.  This 
charter  was,  in  1357,  confirmed  by  John,  and  in  1582 
by  Henry  III.,  and  remained  in  force  until  1636.  The 
importance  of  the  craft  in  France  is  shown  by  the  fact 
that  under  Colbert  the  perfumers  or  "  parfumeurs-gan- 
tiers"  as  they  were  called,  were  granted  patents  which 
were  registered  in  Parliament.  In  the  seventeenth  cen- 
tury Montpellier  was  the  chief  seat  of  the  French  per- 
fumery industry ;  to-day  it  is  Paris,  and  over  fifty 


.30  MANUFACTURE   OF   PERFUMERY. 

millions  of  francs7  worth  of  perfumery  are  annually  sold 
there.  The  parfumeurs-gantiers  had  the  privilege  of 
selling  gloves  of  all  possible  kinds  of  material,  as  well 
as  the  leather  required  for  them ;  they  had  the  further 
privilege  of  perfuming  gloves  and  selling  all  kinds  of 
perfumes.  Perfumed  leather  for  gloves,  purses,  etc., 
was  at  that  time  imported  from  Spain.  This  leather 
was  very  expensive  and  fashionable,  but  on  account 
of  its  penetrating  odor  its  use  for  gloves  was  finally 
abandoned. 

In  England  perfumes  were  not  in  general  use  before 
the  reign  of  Queen  Elizabeth,  when  they  soon  became 
fashionable.  Elizabeth  had  an  especially  finely  devel- 
oped sense  of  smell  and  nothing  was  more  repugnant  to 
her  than  a  disagreeable  odor.  She  had  a  cloak  of  per- 
fumed Spanish  leather,  and  even  her  shoes  wrere  per- 
fumed. Perfumed  gloves  were  also  fashionable.  The 
city  soon  imitated  the  practices  of  the  court,  and  that  an 
extravagant  use  was  made  of  perfumeries  and  cosmetics  is 
plainly  seen  from  the  works  of  the  authors  of  that  time, 
as  well  as  from  an  act  of  Parliament  passed  in  1770. 
By  the  latter  it  is  ordained  that  any  woman,  no  matter 
of  what  age  or  rank,  be  she  maid  or  widow,  who  de- 
ceives a  man  and  inveigles  him  into  matrimony  by  the 
use  of  perfumeries,  false  hair,  Crepons  d'Espagne  (a 
paint),  corsets,  hooped  petticoats,  shoes  with  high  heels, 
and  false  hips,  shall  suffer  the  penalty  of  the  law  for 
procuring,  and  the  marriage  shall  be  null  and  void. 


MATERIALS  FOR  MANUFACTURE  OF  PERFUMERY.      31 


CHAPTER  II. 

THE  PERFUME-MATERIALS  FOR  THE  MANUFACTURE 
OF  PERFUMERY. 

MOST  of  the  perfume-materials  employed  by  the  per- 
fumer are  derived  from  the  vegetable  kingdom ;  a  few 
are  of  animal  origin,  whilst  some  are  artificially  pre- 
pared. 

Of  animal  substances  only  four  are  used,  namely : 
musky  castor  or  castoreum,  civet,  and  ambergris;  the 
separation  of  their  characteristic  odoriferous  substances 
has,  however,  not  yet  been  accomplished.  The  odor  of 
plants  is  generally  due  to  volatile  substances  called 
volatile  or  essential  oils.  Their  occurrence  is  not  limited 
to  special  parts,  they  being  found  in  the  flower,  seed, 
wood,  bast,  bark,  leaves,  and  root.  However,  in  every 
plant  the  oil  occurs  chiefly  in  certain  organs,  and  it 
even  happens  that  the  oil  differs  with  the  part  of  the 
plant  whence  it  is  derived.  The  odors  exist  already 
formed  in  the  living  plant,  or  else  are  generated,  as  in 
the  instance  of  bitter  almonds,  by  some  reaction  be- 
tween the  elements  which  takes  place  during  fermenta- 
tion or  distillation. 

From  the  strength  of  the  odor  of  a  plant  no  conclu- 
sion can  be  drawn  as  to  the  quantity  of  volatile  oil 
present.  If  this  were  the  case,  the  hyacinth,  for  in- 
stance, would  contain  more  oil  than  the  coniferae,  whilst 


32  MANUFACTURE   OF   PERFUMERY. 

in  fact  it  contains  so  little  that  it  can  be  separated  only 
with  the  greatest  difficulty.  The  odor  does  not  depend 
on  the  quantity,  but  on  the  quality  of  the  oil ;  a  plant 
may  diffuse  but  little  odor  and  still  contain  much  vola- 
tile oil.  Of  the  various  families  of  plants,  the  labiatae, 
umbelliferae,  and  coniferae  are  richest  in  volatile  oils. 

In  every  climate  plants  diffuse  odor,  those  growing  in 
tropical  latitudes  being  more  prolific  in  this  respect  than 
the  plants  of  colder  regions,  which,  however,  yield  the 
most  delicate  perfume.  Although  the  East  Indies, 
Ceylon,  Peru,  and  Mexico  afford  some  of  the  choicest 
perfumes,  Central  Europe  is  the  actual  flower  garden 
of  the  perfumer,  Grasse,  Cannes,  and  Nice  being  the 
principal  places  for  the  production  of  perfume-materials. 
Thanks  to  the  geographical  position  of  these  places,  the 
cultivator,  within  a  comparatively  narrow  space,  has  at 
his  disposal  various  climates  suitable  for  the  most  perfect 
development  of  the  plants.  The  Acacia  Farnesiana 
grows  on  the  seashore,  without  having  to  fear  frost, 
which  in  one  night  might  destroy  the  entire  crop,  while 
at  the  foot  of  the  Alps,  on  Mount  Esteral,  the  violet 
diffuses  a  much  sweeter  odor  than  in  the  hotter  regions, 
where  the  olive  and  the  tuberose  reach  perfect  bloom. 
England  asserts  its  superiority  in  oils  of  lavender  and 
peppermint.  The  volatile  oils  obtained  from  plants 
cultivated  in  Miteham  and  Hitchin  command  a  con- 
siderably higher  price  than  those  from  other  localities, 
this  preference  being  justified  only  by  the  delicacy  of 
their  perfume.  Cannes  is  best  suited  for  roses,  acacias, 
jasmine,  and  neroli,  while  in  Nimes,  thyme,  rosemary, 
and  lavender  are  chiefly  cultivated.  Nice  is  celebrated 


MATERIALS  FOR  MANUFACTURE  OF  PERFUMERY.       33 

for  its  violets,  while  Sicily  furnishes  the  lemon  and 
orange,  and  Italy  the  iris  and  bergamotte. 

The  odors  exhaled  by  our  own  domestic  plants 
have  been  but  little  studied,  but  the  southern  as  well 
as  many  northern  districts  of  the  United  States  are 
well  adapted  for  the  cultivation  of  quite  a  number  of 
species  of  plants  which  might  be  made  to  yield  highly 
valuable  articles  of  commerce.  Among  the  plants  which 
might  furnish  oils  for  the  perfumer's  use  are,  for  instance, 
the  wall  flower,  the  lil,ly,  lilac  and  mignonette. 

VOLATILE  OILS. — The  volatile  oils  are  either  fluid 
(actual  volatile  oils)  or  solid  (varieties  of  camphor)  or 
solutions  of  solid  combinations  in  fluid.  The  latter,  on 
exposure  to  low  temperatures,  separate  into  two  portions, 
one  solid,  called  stearoptene,  and  the  other  liquid,  called 
elceoptene.  The  boiling  point  of  the  volatile  oils  is  con- 
siderably higher  than  that  of  water,  but  when  heated 
with  water  they  pass  over  with  the  vapors.  Upon 
paper,  fluid  volatile  oils  produce  grease  spots,  which 
differ,  however,  from  those  caused  by  fat  oils  in  that 
they  gradually  disappear  at  an  ordinary  temperature, 
and  rapidly  by  gentle  heating.  Most  volatile  oils  are 
insoluble,  or  only  with  difficulty  and  sparingly  soluble, 
in  water,  but  they  impart  to  the  latter  their  odor  and 
taste.  They  are  readily  soluble  in  alcohol,  ether,  chlo- 
roform, bisulphide  of  carbon  and  petroleum-ether,  and 
miscible  in  every  proportion  with  fats  and  fat  oils.  By 
their  solubility  in  alcohol  they  differ  from  most  fat  oils. 
When  freshly  prepared  many  volatile  oils  are  colorless, 
but  soon  turn  yellow ;  some,  however,  show  a  distinct 
color  even  when  fresh.  They  ignite  with  greater  ease 
than  fat  oils  and  burn  with  a  fierce  smoky  flame  deposit- 
3 


34  MANUFACTURE    OF   PERFUMERY. 

ing  a  large  amount  of  carbon.  They  exhibit  a  great 
tendency  to  absorb  oxygen  from  the  air  and  to  gum,  the 
influence  of  light  promoting  the  process.  In  specific 
gravity  they  range  from  about  0.75  to  1.1 7,  most  of  them 
being  specifically  lighter  than  water.  Most  bodies, 
under  otherwise  equal  conditions,  show  always  exactly 
the  same  specific  gravity,  the  variations  being  so  slight 
that  they  may  be  justly  ascribed  to  errors  of  observation. 
However,  one  and  the  same  volatile  oil  frequently  shows 
such  variations  in  specific  gravity,  that  we  are  forced  to 
ascribe  this  phenomenon  to  alterations  in  the  constitution 
of  the  oil  itself.  For  the  exact  determination  of  the 
specific  gravity  of  a  volatile  oil,  it  should,  therefore,  be 
subjected  to  examination  immediately  after  its  prepara- 
tion from  the  plant  or  vegetable  substance,  which  should 
be  as  fresh  as  possible.  The  influence  of  light  upon 
volatile  oils  is  best  shown  by  the  following  interesting 
experiment :  If  certain  volatile  oils  are  distilled  in  a 
vacuum  or  over  burnt  lime  in  a  current  of  carbonic  acid, 
it  is  no  longer  possible  to  distinguish,  for  instance,  oil  of 
lemon  from  oil  of  turpentine ;  however,  by  again  expo- 
sing the  oils  to  the  air,  they  reacquire  their  characteristic 
odor. 

According  to  their  elementary  composition  the  vola- 
tile oils  may  be  divided  into  three  principal  divisions  :— 

1.  Volatile  oils  free  from  oxygen,  terpene  (camphene), 
or  hydrocarbons. 

2.  Oxygenated  volatile  oils. 

3.  Volatile  oils  containing  sulphur. 

On  account  of  the  facility  with  which  most  of  the 
volatile  oils  absorb  oxygen,  oils  originally  free  from 
oxygen  are  frequently  a  mixture  of  hydrocarbons  and 


MATERIALS  FOR  MANUFACTURE  OF  PERFUMERY.       35 

combinations  containing  oxygen.  The  volatile  oils 
varying  so  much  in  their  physical  as  well  as  their 
chemical  properties,  a  suitable  classification  of  them  has 
thus  far  been  unsuccessful. 

Most  of  the  volatile  oils  contain  a  liquid  hydro- 
carbon, terpene,  which  is  characterized  neither  by  special 
taste  nor  odor,  nor  is  the  peculiarity  of  a  volatile  oil  de- 
pendent on  it.  In  the  direct  distillation  of  a  volatile 
oil,  for  instance,  lemon  oil,  this  hydrocarbon  (citrene), 
passes  first  over  and  can,  therefore,  be  readily  separated 
from  the  constituents  on  which  depend  the  peculiarity  of 
lemon  oil,  and  which  distil  over  at  a  higher  tempera- 
ture. The  specific  character  of  an  oil  is  generally  due 
to  the  portion  of  the  oil  containing  oxygen.  Hence, 
manufacturers  have  endeavored  to  free  several  of  the 
volatile  oils,  used  for  perfumery  and  the  preparation  of 
food,  from  the  worthless  terpene  and  at  the  same  time 
to  obtain  them  in  a  concentrated  form.  Carvol  is,  for 
instance,  caraway  oil  freed  from  carvene  (terpene). 
These  concentrated  oils  are  not  only  purer  and  more 
agreeable  in  odor  and  taste  and  more  readily  soluble  in 
dilute  alcohol,  but,  being  more  concentrated,  an  equal 
volume  of  them  goes  much  further  than  ordinary  vola- 
tile oil.  In  the  price  lists  these  oils  are  designated  as 
extra  strong,  patented,  concentrated,  highly  concentrated 
oils  or  essences. 

All  the  terpenes  occurring  in  the  various  oils  are 
combinations  having  the  formula  Cl0Hl6,or  polymeric 
with  it,  C,5H24,C20H32,  etc.  These  terpenes  exhibiting 
certain  deviations  in  regard  to  their  properties,  odor, 
specific  gravity,  and  boiling  points,  nearly  as  many  ter- 
penes as  there  are  volatile  oils  have  been  distinguished. 
It  is,  however,  very  likely  that  these  deviations  may  be 


36  MANUFACTURE   OF   PERFUMERY. 

traced  back  to  fortuitous  circumstances,  for  example,  to 
the  admixture  of  foreign  substances  occurring  together 
with  the  terpenes,  and  that,  by  a  more  accurate  examina- 
tion, the  number  of  terpenes  entitled  to  be  considered 
pure  chemical  combinations  will  be  considerably  reduced. 
By  Wallach's  labors,  the  identity  of  several  terpenes 
formerly  considered  distinct,  has  already  been  estab- 
lished, whilst  many  others  have  been  found  to  possess 
properties  in  common. 

According  to  the  nature  and  quantity  of  the  odorifer- 
ous substances  contained  in  the  plants,  various  methods, 
namely,  expression,  distillation,  extraction,  maceration, 
and  absorption,  are  employed  for  the  purpose  of  obtain- 
ing them. 

Expression. — This  is  only  practicable  when  the  sub- 
stances are  especially  rich  in  oil  and  of  sufficient  softness, 
as  in  the  case  with  the  peel  of  the  orange,  citron,  lemon, 
etc.  In  such  instances  the  material  is  simply  placed 
in  a  linen  cloth  and  subjected  to  a  strong  pressure  until 
it  ceases  to  yield  oil.  The  press  may  be  of  any  size 
according  to  the  quantity  to  be  expressed.  For  small 
quantities  it  generally  consists  of  an  iron  vessel,  having 
a  small  opening  at  the  bottom  so  that  the  oil  may  flow 
out.  The  material  is  placed  upon  a  perforated  bottom 
inside  of  the  vessel  and  covered  with  a  well-fitting  iron 
plate,  that  can  be  pressed  down  by  means  of  a  screw. 
Though  the  material  is  fairly  exhausted  by  such  a  press, 
for  large  operations  it  is  advisable  to  make  use  of  a 
hydraulic  press,  which  is  constructed  and  managed  in 
exactly  the  same  manner  as  those  used  for  the  expression 
of  fixed  oils. 

By  expression  a  turbid  milky  fluid  is  obtained,  which 


MATERIALS  FOR  MANUFACTURE  OF  PERFUMERY.      37 

consists  of  the  volatile  oil  and  aqueous  substances.  The 
latter  are  a  solution  of  various  extractive  substances  and 
salts  in  water.  This  fluid,  as  it  runs  from  the  press,  is 
received  in  tall,  narrow,  glass  vessels  and  brought  into  a 
cool  place  for  clarification.  This  frequently  requires 
several  >days,  three  distinct  layers  being  generally  dis- 
tinguished. On  the  bottom  is  a  mucous  layer  consisting 
of  cell  substances  carried  along  by  the  liquid  bodies. 
Over  this  is  a  clear  fluid  consisting  of  a  solution  of  ex- 
tractive substances,  vegetable  albumen,  and  salts,  and 
upon  this  floats  the  volatile  oil,  being  specifically  the 
lightest  body,  which,  by  its  greater  refractive  power,  can 
be  clearly  distinguished  from  the  aqueous  fluid. 

The  oil  is  separated  by  bringing  all  that  has  been 
expressed  into  a  bottle  provided  near  the  bottom  with  a 
lateral  neck  closed  by  a  cock.  After  separating  the  oil 
from  the  aqueous  fluid,  the  latter  is  allowed  to  escape 
by  opening  the  cock. 

The  oil  obtained  in  this  manner  is  still  impure,  and 
requires  further  treatment  to  remove  small  vegetable 
fibres,  invisible  to  the  naked  eye,  which  float  in  them, 
and  cause  them  to  be  somewhat  opaque  and  slightly 
opalescent.  By  their  subsequent  decomposition  they 
would  also  give  the  oil  a  disagreeable  odor. 

There  are  two  methods  of  obtaining  the  oil  entirely 
clear,  viz.,  filtration  and  distillation.  Filtration  is  the 
cheaper  process,  but  requires  special  precautions  to  ex- 
clude the  air  as  much  as  possible  to  prevent  the  oil  from 
undergoing  injurious  changes.  By  arranging  the  filter- 
ing apparatus  so  that  the  oil  always  comes  in  contact  with 
only  the  same  quantity  of  air,  the  injurious  action  of 
the  oxygen  is  reduced  to  a  minimum.  It  is  self-evi- 


38 


MANUFACTURE   OF   PERFUMERY. 


dent  that    the  apparatus  should  not  be  placed  in  the 
sun,  but  in  a  semi-dark,  cool  place. 

A  filter  of  simple  construction,  and  performing  excel- 
lent service,  is  shown  in  Fig.  1.  It  consists  of  a  large 
glass  bottle,  F,  hermetically  closed  by  a  doubly-per- 
forated cork.  The  neck  of  the  glass  funnel  T,  the 
upper  rim  of  which  is  ground  smooth,  is  placed  in  one 


FIG.  1. 


, 


of  the  holes,  and  a  glass  tube,  r,  bent  at  a  right  angle, 
is  fitted  into  the  second  hole.  A  thick  wooden  lid,  with 
a  rubber  ring  on  the  lower  side,  is  placed  upon  the 
funnel,  thus  closing  it  air-tight.  In  the  centre  of  the 
lid  is  fitted  a  glass  tube,  r',  also  bent  at  a  right  angle, 
which  is  connected  with  the  tube  r,  by  a  rubber  hose,  L 
After  the  funnel  has  been  provided  with  filtering  paper 
and  the  oil  to  be  filtered,  the  lid  is  placed  upon  it,  and 
must  not  be  removed,  except  for  the  purpose  of  pouring 
more  oil  into  the  funnel.  The  air  in  the  bottle  F  is 


MATERIALS  FOR  MANUFACTURE  OF  PERFUMERY.      39 

displaced  by  the  oil  dropping  into  it,  and  escapes 
through  r,  k  and  rr  into  the  funnel,  and  thus  only  the 
air  in  the  bottle  and  funnel  can  act  upon  the  oil. 

The  other  method  for  the  complete  purification  of 
expressed  oil  is  by  rectification  or  distillation  with 
water.  For  this  purpose  the  oil,  together  with  a  little 
water,  is  brought  into  one  of  the  stills  described  later 
on,  and  the  oil  distilled  over.  It  is  sometimes  difficult 
to  obtain  the  last  portion  of  the  oil,  especially  with  a 
still  heated  by  direct  fire,  and  it  is  therefore  preferable 
to  combine  it  with  a  fresh  quantity  of  the  same  oil  to 
be  distilled. 

Distillation. — There  are  at  present  two  methods  in 
use.  The  one  is  founded  upon  the  direct  action  of 
the  heat,  the  other  upon  the  use  of  steam.  The 
first  was  formerly  in  general  practice,  and  is  still 
largely  employed  in  France  and  England,  and  to  a 
limited  extent  in  this  country.  It  is,  however,  very 
deficient  in  many  respects.  As  the  stills  must  necessa- 
rily be  of  small  capacity,  only  small  quantities  can  be 
distilled  at  one  time,  and  the  oils  very  rarely  possess 
the  peculiar  odor  due  to  them,  and  sometimes  the  odor 
is  even  altered.  In  mixing  too  little  water  with  the 
materials  to  be  extracted,' the  re  is  danger  that  empyreu- 
matic  oils  will  be  formed ;  a  large  quantity  of  water,  on 
the  other  hand,  is  of  disadvantage,  in  so  far  as  in  case 
the  perfume-materials  contain  little  oil,  only  a  perfumed 
water,  but  no  oil,  will  be  obtained.  In  order  to  avoid 
these  inconveniences,  or,  at  least,  to  do  away  with  some 
of  them,  another  plan  was  devised.  The  materials  to 
be  distilled  were  spread  upon  sieves,  which  were  sus- 
pended in  the  upper  part  of  a  still,  so  that  they  might 


40 


MANUFACTURE    OF    PERFUMERY. 


be  penetrated  from  below.  It  is  true  no  scorching  is 
possible  in  this  case,  as  was  in  the  other  process  when 
the  heating  was  continued  after  all  the  water  had  evap- 
orated, and  the  oil  retains  its  proper  color,  but  by  this 
method  only  small  quantities  can  be  extracted  at  a  time. 
The  still  generally  used  for  distillation  with  direct  heat 
resembles  so  much  an  ordinary  whiskey  still  as  to  need 
no  further  description  here. 

For  the  accurate  determination  of  the  percentage  of 
volatile  oil  a  vegetable  substance  will  yield,  or  to  obtain 
the  oil  from  very  costly  raw  materials,  the  small  glass 
apparatus,  Fig.  2,  is  used.  The  flask  A,  with  a  capa- 

FIG.  2. 


city  of  up  to  5  or  6  quarts,  serves  for  a  still.  In  the 
tube  tj  shaped  like  the  neck  of  a  bottle,  is  inserted  by 
means  of  a  cork,  a  funnel  tube,  I,  reaching  to  the  bottom 
of  the  flask.  The  neck  of  the  flask  passes  into  the 
cooling  pipe,  which  lies  in  a  so-called  Liebig  cooler. 
This  consists  of  a  wide-glass  tube,  (7,  into  the  lower  end 
of  which,  at  hy  flows  cold  water  from  the  reservoir  Z), 
displacing  the  heated  water  at  g.  The  lower  end  of  the 


MATERIALS  FOR  MANUFACTURE  OF  PERFUMERY.      41 

cooling  pipe  is  connected  with  the  neck-shaped  tube  r, 
under  which  stands  the  vessel  for  the  reception  of  the 
distillate.  To  prevent  the  cracking  of  the  flask,  which 
might  readily  happen  with  the  use  of  direct  heat,  it  is 
placed  in  a  vessel  filled  with  sand  or  water. 

A  very  good  small  apparatus  for  the  distillation  of 
volatile  oil  is  shown  in  Fig.  3.  It  is  known  as  a  siphon 
still.  It  consists  of  a  double-walled  boiler,  surmounted 
by  a  still-head,  which  is  provided  with  a  mechanism  for 
keeping  the  contents  of  the  boiler  in  motion.  This 
stirring  apparatus  consists  of  a  perpendicular  shaft,  bear- 

FIG.  3. 


ing  a  frame  work  of  iron,  curved  so  as  to  correspond  to 
the  interior  shape  of  the  still,  and  on  the  outside  carrying 
a  chain  which  scrapes  over  the  inner  surface  of  the  still 
while  the  stirrer  is  being  turned.  This  may  be  done 


42  MANUFACTURE   OF   PERFUMERY. 

either  by  hand  or  by  steam.  The  still  having  been 
charged  with  the  material  to  be  extracted,  is  filled  up 
with  water  to  within  a  few  inches  of  the  top  of  the  body 
of  the  still,  and  the  latter  is  heated  by  admitting  steam. 
The  vapors  arising  are  conducted  to  a  cooler  situated  at 
a  higher  level  than  the  still  itself,  and  the  condensed 
liquid  is  collected  in  a  receiver,  where  the  oil  and  water 
separate.  This  receiver  is  provided  with  two  faucets, 
one  near  the  top  and  the  other  near  the  bottom.  If  the 
oil  passing  over  is  heavier  than  water,  the  excess  of  the 
latter  is  removed  by  the  upper  faucet ;  if  the  oil  swirns 
on  the  water,  the  lower  faucet  is  regulated  so  as  to 
allow  the  water  to  escape  in  about  the  same  ratio  as  it 
enters  the  receiver.  In  either  case  the  condensed  water 
is  made  to  run  back  into  the  still,  and  the  loss  of  oil 
is,  therefore,  greatly  reduced. 

Sometimes  a  single-walled  still  is  used,  and  distilla- 
tion carried  on  with  direct  steam.  This  method  is, 
however,  not  suitable  where  the  presence  of  water  is 
necessary,  for  instance,  in  the  production  of  oil  of  bitter 
almonds. 

A  simple  way  of  converting  an  ordinary  still  into 
use  with  steam  is  shown  in  Fig.  4.  For  the  helmet  of 
the  still  A  is  substituted  a  cylindrical  vessel,  jB,  with 
an  opening  in  the  bottom.  The  materials  to  be  dis- 
tilled are  brought  into  B,  and  rest  upon  a  wire  bottom 
to  prevent  particles  from  falling  into  A.  From  the 
upper  portion  of  B  a  pipe,  R,  leads  to  the  condenser. 
As  may  be  seen  from  the  illustration,  the  still  A  serves 
only  for  the  generation  of  steam.  The  latter,  in  passing 
through  J5,  heats  the  contents  and  absorbs  the  liberated 
oil,  the  combined  vapors  passing  into  the  condenser. 


MATERIALS  FOR  MANUFACTURE  OF  PERFUMERY.      43 

This  simple  modification  of  the  ordinary  still  affords 
some  advantage,  the  principal  being  the  avoidance  of 
the  condensation  of  a  large  quantity  of  water.  This  in 
itself  would  not  amount  to  much,  but  it  has  to  be  taken 
into  consideration  that,  though  volatile  oils  are  only 

FIG.  4. 


very  sparingly  soluble  in  water,  they  are  nevertheless 
soluble  in  it  to  such  a  degree  as  to  impart  to  it  their 
characteristic  odor  and  taste.  Such  aromatized  water  can 
be  utilized  in  the  manufacture  of  liqueurs  and  perfu- 
mery, but  to  the  manufacturer  who  restricts  himself  to 
the  production  of  volatile  oils  alone,  this  represents  a 
loss,  and  it  is  therefore  necessary  for  him  to  condense  as 
little  water  as  possible.  And  this  object  can  only  be 
attained  by  the  use  of  direct  steam. 

A  simple  apparatus  for  the  purpose  is  shown  in  Fig. 
5.     The  still  6,  provided  with  a  helmet,  rests  free  upon 


44  MANUFACTURE   OF   PERFUMERY. 

a  suitable  support.  To  prevent  cooling,  it  is  surrounded 
with  a  wooden  jacket,  M.  The  material  to  be  extracted 
rests  upon  a  perforated  bottom,  beneath  which  enters  the 

FIG.  5. 


pipe  H  D,  wrhich  conducts  the  steam  from  the  boiler. 
For  the  more  uniform  distribution  of  the  steam,  it  is 
recommended  to  let  this  pipe  end  in  a  perforated  coil. 
The  water  condensed  in  the  apparatus  itself  is  dis- 
charged through  the  short  pipe  H,  placed  in  the  lowest 
part  of  the  still. 

An  improved  apparatus  for  distilling  dry  substances 
by  steam  has  been  patented  in  Germany  by  Messrs. 
Schimmel  &  Co.,  of  Leipzic.  The  tall  conical  column 
at  the  left  (Fig.  6)  is  the  still.  About  eight  inches  from 
the  bottom  is  a  perforated  diaphragm  or  false  bottom, 
upon  which  the  material  to  be  distilled  is  placed  by  in- 
troducing it  through  the  still-head.  A  perforated  coil 
below  the  diaphragm  projects  steam  upwards  through 


MATERIALS  FOR  MANUFACTURE  OF  PERFUMERY.      45 

the  mass,  which  is  occasionally  agitated  from  without 
by  means  of  a  horizontal  stirring  apparatus  indicated 
by  the  two  crosses.  Any  condensed  water  which  may 
run  back  is  converted  into  steam  by  the  heating  coil 
at  the  bottom.  Meanwhile,  the  mass  itself  is  heated 

FIG.  6 


by  a  long  coil  lining  the  body  of  the  still  and  carry- 
ing steam  at  a  high  pressure.  Whatever  of  volatile  oil 
is  carried  forward  by  the  steam  passes  through  the  still- 
head  into  the  cooler  on  the  right,  where  both  oil  and 
steam  are  condensed,  and  from  where  they  flow  through 
a  small  funnel  tube  into  three  successive  receivers, 
which  are  arranged  like  Florentine  flasks,  and  which 
retain  the  volatile  oil  that  has  separated.  From  the 
last  receiver  the  water,  which  is  still  impregnated  with 
oil,  enters  another  reservoir,  shown  in  the  illustration 
only  by  dots,  and  from  there  it  flows  into  a  small 
globular  still  situated  underneath  ;  in  which,  by  means 


46  MANUFACTURE   OF   PERFUMERY. 

of  steam,  nearly  all  the  oil  still  retained  is  again  vola- 
tilized with  the  steam  of  the  water  and  both  again  con- 
ducted to  the  cooler. 

Attempts  have  been  made  to  effect  the  distillation  of 
volatile  oils  without  the  use  of  steam  by  means  of  hot  air, 
but  comparative  experiments  have  shown  that  less  oil 
is  obtained.  With  the  use  of  steam,  the  vegetable 
substances  swell  up  by  the  absorption  of  water,  and  thus 
afford  a  free  passage  to  the  oil,  liberated  from  the  sacs 
containing  it.  With  the  use  of  hot  air,  on  the  other 
hand,  the  surface  of  the  plant  is  completely  dried  and 
shrivels  to  a  hard  solid  mass,  which  offers  considerable 
resistance  to  the  process  of  distillation. 

This  injurious  effect  of  hot  air  can  be  somewhat 
overcome  by  thoroughly  moistening  the  plants  to  be  dis- 
tilled, and  allowing  the  hot  air,  before  entering  the  still, 
to  pass  through  a  pipe  filled  with  sponges  constantly 
kept  wet.  But  this  process  offers  no  advantages  over 
that  by  steam.  The  apparatus  required  is  far  more 
complicated ;  and,  besides,  a  ventilator  has  to  be  pro- 
vided for  forcing  the  hot  air  through  the  apparatus. 

Separation  of  the  oil  and  water. — As  previously 
mentioned  the  specific  gravity  of  most  volatile  oils  is 
less  than  that  of  water.  This  behavior  is  utilized  for 
the  separation  of  the  oil  and  water,  by  means  of  a  so- 
called  Florentine  flask  (Fig.  7).  It  consists  of  a  glass 
flask  provided  near  the  bottom  with  a  pipe,  a,  rising  ver- 
tically to  near  the  neck  c  of  the  flask  where  it  is  bent 
downwards  as  shown  in  the  illustration.  The  mixed 
liquid  of  water  and  oil  drips  from  the  cooling  pipe  into 
the  flask,  and  the  water  w,  being  specifically  heavier, 
separates  from  the  oil  floating  on  the  top,  and  gradually 


MATERIALS  FOR  MANUFACTURE  OF  PERFUMERY.      47 

ascends  in  the  pipe  a,  finally  flowing  over  at  d.  Oils 
specifically  heavier  than  water  are  caught  in  receivers 
provided  with  a  discharge-pipe  near  the  mouth  of  the 
flask  as  shown  in  Fig.  8. 


FIG.  7. 


FIG.  8. 


The  oil  delivered  from  the  receivers  is,  however,  still 
mixed  with  some  water,  dirt,  etc.,  and  for  their  separa- 
tion is  allowed  to  stand  quietly  for  some  time.  The 
final  separation  is  effected  either  by  simply  pouring  off 
the  oil,  especially  if  larger  quantities  have  to  be  handled, 
or  with  the  assistance  of  a  separator-funnel  (Fig.  9).  This 
consists  of  the  glass-funnel  T  secured  to  the  stand  Gr, 
and  provided  with  a  close-fitting  lid,  P.  The  fluid  is 
poured  into  the  funnel,  the  lid  placed  in  position,  and  the 
whole  allowed  to  rest  until  the  water  W  is  completely 
separated  from  the  oil  0.  The  oil  is  then  separated 
from  the  last  drops  of  water  by  carefully  opening  the 
faucet  H. 

Most  volatile  oils  are  obtained  by  distillation,  but  this 


48  MANUFACTURE   OF   PERFUMERY. 

method  is  not  practicable  for  separating  the  odoriferous 
principle  of  many  of  the  most  sweet-scented  and  delicate 
flowers,  partially  because  the  flowers  contain  too  little 
oil,  and  partially  because  the  oil  would  lose  in  quality 
if  obtained  by  distillation. 


Extraction. — For  obtaining  the  volatile  oils  by  ex- 
traction various  solvents  such  as  ether,  bisulphide  of 
carbon,  etc.,  may  be  employed.  Carefully  rectified 
petroleum-ether  is  very  suitable  for  the  purpose.  It 
completely  evaporates  at  about  122°  F.,  and  when  suffi- 
ciently purified  does  not  possess  a  disagreeable  odor. 
The  process  of  extraction  is  briefly  as  follows :  The 
material  to  be  extracted  is  treated  in  a  digester  with 
petroleum-ether  or  one  of  the  above-named  solvents. 
The  solution  is  then  drawn  off*  and  the  solvent  evapo- 


MATERIALS  FOR  MANUFACTURE  OF  PERFUMERY.       49 

rated  in  a  still.  The  reeondensed  solvent  flows  imme- 
diately back  into  the  digester  and  further  extracts  the 
material  contained  therein.  The  operation  is  repeated 
until  nothing  soluble  remains.  In  practice  some  diffi- 
culties are,  however,  connected  with  this  process  since, 
besides  the  volatile  oils,  resins,  and  coloring  and  extrac- 
tive substances  are  dissolved,  which  have  to  be  removed, 
as  well  as  the  last  traces  of  the  solvent,  as  other- 
wise the  oil  would  acquire  a  foreign  odor.  Further 
the  solvents  mentioned  are  very  volatile  and  inflam- 
mable, requiring  the  greatest  precautions  as  regards 
fire.  For  these  reasons  the  extraction  process  is  not 
suitable  for  many  purposes,  and  though  at  first  great 
hopes  were  entertained  in  regard  to  it,  its  use  is 
limited  to  substances  with  a  large  content  of  volatile 
oil. 

For  extraction  on  a  small  scale,  the  apparatus,  Fig.  10, 
is  a  very  suitable  one.  It  is  especially  adapted  for 
manufacturers  of  perfumery,  who 
wish  to  extract  fresh  flowers.  It 
consists  of  a  cylindrical  vessel,  (7, 
of  tin  plate,  provided  on  the  bot- 
tom with  the  stop-cock  a  and  the 
pipe  6.  The  lid  D  fits  into  a 
gutter,  R,  running  around  the 
edge  of  C,  and  is  hermetically 
closed  by  water  in  R.  The  cyl- 
inder is  filled  with  the  vegetable 
substance  to  be  extracted,  and 

sufficient  petroleum-ether   or  bisulphide  of   carbon  to 
cover  it,  poured  in.    The  lid  is  then  adjusted,  the  gutter 
R  filled  with  water  and  the  apparatus  allowed  to  stand 
4 


50  MANUFACTURE    OF   PERFUMERY. 

quietly  for  forty  minutes.  To  remove  the  fluid  from 
the  cylinder,  the  faucet  o  in  the  lid  is  first  opened,  and 
then  the  stop-cock  a;  the  fluid  escapes  at  6,  and  is 
caught  in  a  well-closed  vessel.  The  operation  may  be 
repeated  once  or  twice,  or  the  vegetable  substance  is 
pressed  out  by  means  of  a  wooden  plate,  and  the  appa- 
ratus filled  anew.  The  faucet  h  serves  for  emptying 
the  gutter  R. 

Extraction  being  finished,  the  cock  o  is  opened,  and 
then  the  cock  a,  and  the  fluid  allowed  to  run  into  the 
flask  of  the  distilling  apparatus  (Fig.  2).  For  working 
on  a  large  scale,  the  flask  is,  however,  too  small,  and  is 
suitably  replaced  by  a  bottle-shaped  tin  vessel,  F  (Fig. 
11),  the  conical  cover  D  of  which  is  secured  by  means 
of  the  rubber  ring  R  and  iron  screw-clamps,  8.  A 
bent  glass  tube  fitted  into  the  cover  is  connected  with 
the  cooling-pipe  of  the  apparatus  shown  in  Fig.  2.  But 
the  oils  prepared  by  extraction  are  not  sufficiently  puri- 
fied by  mere  rectification,  as  traces  of  the  solvent  adhere 
tenaciously  to  them,  which  can  only  be  removed  by  passing 
a  current  of  air  through  the  oil.  But  contact  with  air 
has  an  injurious  effect  upon  the 
delicacy  of  the  odor.  For  ex- 
pensive oils  a  current  of  air 
should  therefore  never  be  used, 
but  one  of  pure  carbonic  acid. 

Fig.  12  shows  a  suitable  ap- 
paratus for  the  purpose.  The 
large  bottle  A,  filled  half  full 
with  pieces  of  white  marble,  is 
closed  with  a  doubly-perforated 
cork ;  through  one  of  the  holes 
is  inserted  a  funnel-tube,  and 


MATERIALS  FOR  MANUFACTURE  OF  PERFUMERY.      51 

through  the  other  a  short  tube  bent  at  a  right  angle. 
The  latter  is  connected  with  another  tube  which  reaches 
to  the  bottom  of  the  vessel  B,  in  which  is  also  inserted 
a  tube  open  in  the  bottom,  and  a  short  tube  bent  at  a 
right  angle.  Alongside  B  stands  another  vessel,  C, 
arranged  in  the  same  manner.  The  tube  leading  from 
C  is  connected  with  a  tin  pipe,  Z),  with  a  rose-like  ex- 
pansion on  its  lower  end.  This  pipe  is  inserted  in  the 
glass  balloon  containing  the  volatile  oil.  Finally,  a 
pipe  leads  to  the  flask  F,  filled  with  water. 

To  put  the  apparatus  in  operation,  strongly  diluted 
hydrochloric  acid  is  poured  through  the  funnel-tube 
upon  the  pieces  of  marble  in  A,  which  causes  the  de- 
velopment of  a  current  of  carbonic  acid.  But  as  the 

FIG.  12. 


latter  carries  along  water  and  hydrochloric  acid,  it  has 
to  be  freed  from  them  before  coming  in  contact  with 
the  volatile  oil.  The  vessels  B  and  C  serve  for  the  pur- 
pose. B  is  half  filled  with  water,  while  C  contains 
strong  sulphuric  acid.  In  B  the  hydrochloric  acid  car- 
ried along  with  the  current  of  carbonic  acid  is  retained, 


52  MANUFACTURE   OF   PERFUMERY. 

while  the  water  is  fixed  on  the  sulphuric  acid  in  C. 
The  current  of  carbonic  acid  passing  out  from  C  is  per- 
fectly pure,  and  enters  the  volatile  oil  through  the  fine 
perforations  in  the  pipe  D.  It  absorbs  the  traces  of 
solvent  still  adhering  to  the  oil,  and  finally  passes  out 
through  the  water  in  the  bottle  F. 

Volatile  oils  obtained  by  extraction,  and  purified  by 
a  current  of  carbonic  acid,  will  keep  for  years  without 
undergoing  alteration,  if  placed  immediately  in  hermeti- 
cally closed  vessels  and  stored  in  a  dark  place.  Oils 
purified  by  a  current  of  air  always  become  somewhat 
thickly  fluid  by  storing,  and  partially  lose  their  fine 
odor,  which  is  due  to  'the  oxygen  absorbed  during  the 
process. 

For  the  extraction  of  oil  on  a  larger  scale,  the  appa- 
ratus shown  in  Fig.  13  is  very  suitable.  It  consists  of 
two  principal  parts,  the  actual  extracting  vessel  E,  and 
the  still  B.  The  extracting  vessel  E  sits  in  a  vat  con- 
taining cold  water,  TF,  the  arrangement  being  such  that 
the  heated  water  can  be  removed  and  replaced  by  cold. 
The  still  B  sits  in  a  boiler,  K,  filled  with  hot  water. 

The  apparatus  is  charged  as  follows :  The  conical 
head  C  of  the  extracting  vessel  E  is  unscrewed  and  its 
connection  at  H  with  the  pipe  R  loosened.  The  ex- 
tracting vessel  is  then  charged  with  the  vegetable  sub- 
stance, the  head  C  replaced,  and  the  connection  with 
the  pipe  R  restored.  The  cocks  JBT2  and  H^  are  then 
opened,  and  the  required  quantity  of  solvent  is  brought 
into  the  still.  Both  cocks  are  then  closed,  and  the  cocks 
H  and  Hl  opened.  The  water  in  the  boiler  is  then 
heated  until  the  contents  of  the  still  commence  to  boil. 
The  vapor  of  the  solvent  ascends  through  the  pipe  R ; 


MATERIALS  FOR  MANUFACTURE  OF  PERFUMERY.       53 

on  entering  the  extracting  vessel  E  it  is  condensed,  and 
after  falling  as  a  spray  upon  the  material  to  be  extracted, 
finally  returns  impregnated  with  volatile  oil  to  the  still 
B.  Here  the  solvent  is  revaporized,  and  passes  again 

FIG.  13. 


through  the  material  in  the  extracting  vessel,  while  the 
extracted  oil  remains  in  the  still.  During  the  boiling 
of  the  solvent  the  extracting  vessel  must  be  suitably 
cooled  by  the  constant  admission  of  cold  water. 

AVhen  extraction  is  finished,  the  cocks  JJand  Hl  are 
closed,  and  the  cock  H2,  which  is  connected  with  a  cool- 
ing worm,  is  opened.  The  solvent  is  then  evaporated, 
and  regained  by  condensation.  The  oil  is  discharged- 
from  the  still  through  a  pipe  in  the  bottom  provided 
with  the  cock  H 


54 


MANUFACTURE   OF   PERFUMERY. 


The  apparatus  may  also  be  so  arranged  that  the  still 
B  is  connected  with  two  extracting  vessels  which  are 
used  alternately,  while  the  contents  of  one  are  being  ex- 
tracted the  other  is  emptied  and  refilled. 

For  working  on  a  very  large  scale,  HeyPs  extracting 
apparatus,  shown  in  Fig.  14,  is  very  suitable.  It  con- 
sists of  a  battery  of  four  or  more  cast  iron  or  sheet  iron 
cylinders,  A^  to  A^  communicating  with  each  other  and 
surrounded  by  steam  jackets.  The  extracting  vessels 
are  so  arranged  that  they  can  be  emptied  by  tilting, 
which  is  rather  inconvenient,  as  all  the  pipes  have  to 
be  unscrewed.  In  each  cylinder  close  above  the  bottom 
is  a  perforated  plate  covered  with  fine  wire-gauze,  upon 
which  the  material  to  be  extracted  is  placed.  The 
cylinder  is  filled  to  the  top,  and,  after  placing  a  similar 
plate  upon  it,  the  upper  opening  is  closed  by  a  lid  sus- 
pended to  a  crane.  The  cylinder,  as  well  as  the  lid,  is 


FIG.  14. 


fit, 


provided  with  a  broad  flange,  between  which  is  placed 
a  hemp  tissue  firmly  pressed  together  by  12  clamps  to 
serve  for  packing.  After  filling  the  cylinders  with  the 


MATERIALS  FOR  MANUFACTURE  OF  PERFUMERY.       55 

material  to  be  extracted  and  arranging  the  packing,  the 
solvent  (bisulphide  of  carbon)  is  conducted  from  a  reser- 
voir through  the  principal  pipe,  B,  to  the  extracting 
vessels,  and  is  introduced  into  A2  by  opening  the  cock 
C2,  which  communicates  with  the  pipe  B.  The  bisul- 
phide of  carbon  passes  through  the  bent  pipe  Dv  enters 
through  the  cock  Ev  below  the  false  bottom  of  the 
cylinder  A2,  and,  after  penetrating  the  mass  and  filling 
the  cylinder,  runs  through  the  cock  (72  of  the  bent  pipe 
!)„  and  the  cock  Ea  into  the  cylinder  A3,  reaching  the 
fourth  cylinder  in  the  same  manner  through  the  cock 
C3,  the  pipe  D3,  and  the  cock  E4.  From  the  last  cylin- 
der it  passes  as  a  thoroughly  saturated  oil  solution  into 
a  reservoir,  in  which  a  vacuum  has  been  created  to  pro- 
mote the  circulation  of  the  fluid  in  the  entire  apparatus. 
After  a  quantity  of  oil  solution  corresponding  to  the 
contents  of  the  cylinder  A4  has  arrived,  the  cock  G4  is 
closed  and  the  cock  C4  opened,  whereby  the  cylinder 
A4  is  connected  with  Av  by  the  bent  pipe  D4  and  the 
cock  Ev 

After  the  exhaustion  of  the  contents  of  the  cylinder 
Av  which  is  recognized  by  means  of  the  glass  tube  H2 
placed  on  D2  by  the  fluid  running  oif  being  colorless,  the 
cocks  Cl  and  E^  are  closed,  andC2  and  E3  opened,  whereby 
the  solvent  runs  into  A3,  and  from  there  to  A4  and  Av ; 
A^  being  omitted.  To  effect  this  omission,  and  at  the 
same  time  not  to  prevent  the  introduction  of  bisulphide 
of  carbon,  (?„  C2,  (73,  and  (74,  are  so-called  two-way 
cocks,  which,  when  placed  in  one  position,  connect  the 
principal  pipe  B  with  the  branch  pipes  D,  but  interrupt 
a  further  flow  through  the  principal  pipe  B ;  while  in 


56  MANUFACTURE   OF   PERFUMERY. 

the  other  position  they  close  the  pipes  D  and  open  the 
principal  pipe  I>. 

The  cylinder  A2  is,  however,  still  filled  with  the  sol- 
vent and  material  saturated  with  it.  To  remove  the  sol- 
vent, the  discharge  cock  JT2  on  the  bottom  of  the  cylin- 
der is  opened,  which  communicates  with  the  discharge 
pipe  J,  through  which  the  bisulphide  of  carbon  is  con- 
ducted into  a  reservoir.  The  discharge  is  promoted  by 
opening  the  cock  J/2,  connected  with  the  pipe  L,  and 
the  admittance  of  compressed  air,  which  displaces  the 
liquid  solvent.  After  the  flow  of  the  latter  has  ceased, 
the  steam  cocks  on  the  jacket  02  and  the  cylinder  P2  are 
opened  under  constant  admission  of  air  and  simultaneous 
introduction  of  steam  through  the  pipe  N  into  the  upper 
part  of  the  cylinder. 

The  solvent  (bisulphide  of  carbon)  converted  into 
vapor  by  the  heat,  is  conducted  together  with  the 
aqueous  vapor,  by  the  admission  of  air  through  the  cock 
_ZT2,  the  pipe  J,  and  a  cooling  pipe  placed  between  the 
extracting  vessels  and  the  reservoir,  and  collected  in  a 
reservoir  to  be  re-used. 

On  account  of  the  great  volatility  of  bisulphide  of 
carbon,  considerable  loss  would,  however,  be  incurred 
by  the  above-mentioned  admission  of  air.  To  avoid 
this,  the  reservoir  serving  for  the  reception  of  the  con- 
densed bisulphide  of  carbon  and  aqueous  vapor  is  closed, 
and  connected  by  a  pipe  with  a  long,  narrow,  horizontal 
cylinder  half  filled  with  oil,  and  provided  with  a  fan- 
shaft.  The  vapors  of  bisulphide  of  carbon  entering  the 
cylinder  from  the  reservoir  are  absorbed,  together  with 
the  air  by  the  oil,  the  surface  of  which  is  constantly  agi- 
tated by  the  fan-shaft,  while  the  air,  rendered  entirely 


MATERIALS  FOR  MANUFACTURE  OF  PERFUMERY.      57 

inodorous,  passes  out  at  the  other  end.  The  bisulphide 
of  carbon  is  finally  separated  from  the  oil  by  distillation 
and  again  used. 

After  the  cylinder  A3  is  sufficiently  steamed,  it  is 
emptied  and  again  charged  with  material  and  connected 
with  the  cylinder  Av ;  while  the  other  cylinders  undergo 
the  same  manipulations  described  above. 

The  saturated  oil  solution  is  subjected  to  distilla- 
tion, which  is  readily  effected  in  HeyPs  apparatus, 
Fig.  15.  The  lower  part  of  the  still  A  of  boiler 


plate  is  surrounded  by  the  steam-jacket  B,  into  which 
steam  is  admitted  through  C  and  the  condensed  water 
discharged  through  D.  The  concentrated  oil  solution 
runs  from  a  reservoir,  standing  at  a  higher  level 


58  MANUFACTURE   OF   PERFUMERY. 

through  the  pipe  E  into  the  still,  the  admission  of  a 
sufficient  quantity  being  indicated  by  the  gauge  F.  The 
bisulphide  of  carbon  brought  to  the  boiling  point  (114° 
F.)  by  the  steam  introduced  into  the  jacket,  vaporizes 
quickly ;  the  vaporization  being  still  more  accelerated 
by  revolving  the  stirrer  H,  by  means  of  the  crank  G. 
The  vapors  of  bisulphide  of  carbon  escape  through 
four  openings  in  the  upper  part  of  the  still,  into  a 
capacious  worm,  the  lower  part  of  which  enters, 
under  water,  a  reservoir. 

Notwithstanding  the  volatility  of  bisulphide  of  car- 
bon, the  oil  retains  a  portion  of  it  so  tenaciously  that  a 
complete  separation  cannot  be  accomplished  by  the 
introduction  of  steam  into  the  jacket  B.  Hence,  in 
order  to  vaporize  the  last  traces  of  the  solvent,  air  is 
introduced  into  the  oil  through  the  pipe  K,  the  lower 
end  of  which  is  perforated.  After  completed  distillation 
the  oil  is  discharged  through  L. 

Maceration  or  infusion. — This  process  is  employed 
for  flowers  with  an  inconsiderable  content  of  volatile  oil 
or  whose  odoriferous  substance  would  suffer  decompo- 
sition or  alteration  by  distillation.  The  process  is 
founded  on  the  affinity  of  odoriferous  substances  for 
fatty  bodies  which,  when  impregnated  with  them,  are 
called  pomades.  These  are  afterwards  made  to  yield  the 
aroma  to  strong  alcohol,  so  that  finally  there  is  obtained 
a  solution  of  the  volatile  oil  in  alcohol  from  which  the 
pure  oil  is  obtained  by  distilling  off  the  alcohol.  The 
fat  used,  olive  oil,  lard,  etc.,  should  be  entirely  neutral, 
i.  e.,  free  from  every  trace  of  acid.  The  fats  are  puri- 
fied by  treating  them  several  times  in  the  heat  with 
weak  soda-lye  and  then  washing  carefully  with  water 


MATERIALS  FOR  MANUFACTURE  OF  PERFUMERY.      59 

until  the  last  traces  of  the  lye  are  removed,  and  the  fat 
shows  no  alkaline  or  acid  reaction. 

With  the  use  of  olive  oil  the  so-called  "  Huiles 
antiques"  are  obtained,  which  are  merely  solutions  of 
volatile  oils  in  the  fixed  oil.  By  the  use  of  lard,  etc., 
the  genuine  pomades  are  obtained,  which  are  directly 
used  as  expensive  articles  of  perfumery,  but  in  the 
factories  serve  as  a  starting  point  for  the  preparation  of 
volatile  oils. 

The  old  process  of  maceration,  which  is  still  in  use 
in  some  parts  of  France,  is  as  follows  :  A  certain  quan- 
tity of  fat  is  placed  in  an  enameled  iron  or  porcelain 
pan  provided  with  a  water  or  steam  bath  When  the 
fat  is  melted,  the  freshly  gathered  flowers  from  which 
the  aroma  is  to  be  extracted  are  thrown  in  and  left  to 
digest  for  from  twelve  to  twenty-four  hours,  the  fat  being 
kept  fluid  and  stirred  frequently.  When  the  flowers  are 
completely  exhausted,  the  fat  is  strained  from  them  into 
fresh  pots,  in  which  it  is  again  macerated  with  fresh 
flowrers  as  before.  This  operation  is  repeated  ten  to 
fifteen  times  until  the  pomade  has  acquired  the  desired 
strength. 

Experience,  however,  has  shown  that  volatile  oils 
prepared  by  this  process  possess  a  finer  odor  the  shorter 
the  time  the  flowers  remain  in  contact  with  the  fat. 
Piver  has  devised  an  apparatus  which  reduces  the 
time  of  maceration  to  the  shortest  period  possible^fThe 
kettle  to  the  left,  Fig.  16,  supplies  the  fat  heated  to  the 
proper  temperature,  which  circulates  slowly  through  the 
macerating  tank,  in  which  a  constant  temperature  of 
149°  F.  is  maintained  by  means  of  a  steam  pipe.  The 
macerating  tank  is  divided  into  compartments,  in  which 


60 


MANUFACTURE   OF   PERFUMERY. 


baskets  containing  the  vegetable  substance  to  be  ex- 
tracted are  suspended.  The  basket  on  the  left  contains 
the  substance  which  has  passed  through  all  the  com- 
partments ;  it  is  from  time  to  time  removed,  filled  with 


FIG.  16. 


V   M3    >.:\t^    MR;    ^>^    ^ip    ^Ip-1    •     - 

ted        v 


fresh  substance,  and  then  attached  to  the  right,  the 
other  baskets  being  moved  to  the  next  compartment  to 
the  left.  In  this  way  the  fresh  substance  has  to  traverse 
each  compartment  from  right  to  left,  while  the  fat  flows 
slowly  from  left  to  right,  and  saturated  with  the  per- 
fume of  the  substance  collects  in  the  tank  on  the  ex- 
treme right. 

Maceration  is  employed  for  the  flowers  of  the  orange 
(citrus  aurantum),  of  the  mock  orange  (Philadelphus 
coronarius),  of  the  acacia  (acacia  Farnesiand),  of  the 
violet  (viola  odorata),  of  the  mignonette  (reseda  odorata), 
etc. 

The  process  of  absorption,  or  u  enfieurage"  as  it  is 


MATEKIALS  FOR  MANUFACTURE  OF  PERFUMERY.      61 

called  by  the  French,  is  chiefly  made  use  of  for  pro- 
curing the  odoriferous  principle  of  very  delicate  flowers, 
the  delicious  odor  of  which  would  be  greatly  modified, 
if  not  entirely  spoiled,  by  the  application  of  heat.  The 
older  apparatus  employed  for  the  purpose  consists  of  a 
number  of  shallow  wooden  frames  of  about  15x18 
inches,  inclosing  at  half  their  depth  a  sheet  of  glass. 
The  edges  of  the  frame  rise  about  an  inch  above  each 
surface  of  the  glass,  and,  being  flat,  the  frames  stand 
securely  upon  one  another,  forming  often  considerable 
stacks.  These  frames  are  called  " chassis"  those  just 
described  being  termed  "chassis  aux  wires"  or  "chassis 
aux  pomades"  to  distinguish  them  from  a  different 
form,  which  is  used  where  oil  has  to  be  submitted  to 
the  process  of  absorption.  The  process  in  the  case  of 
pomade  is  as  follows  :  Each  sheet  of  glass  is  uniformly 
coated  with  a  thin  layer  of  purified  grease,  care  being 
taken  that  the  grease  does  not  come  in  contact  with  the 
woodwork  of  the  frames.  The  flowers  are  then  thinly 
sprinkled,  or  rather  laid,  one  by  one,  upon  the  surface  of 
the  fat,  where  they  are  allowed  to  remain  one  or  two 
days,  when  they  are  removed  and  replaced  by  fresh 
ones.  The  operation  is  thus  continued  for  twenty-five 
or  thirty  days,  until  the  fat  is  saturated  with  aroma. 
The  frames  charged  with  fat  and  flowers  are  stacked 
one  -upon  the  other,  forming,  in  fact,  a  number  of  little 
rectangular  chambers. 

For  perfuming  oils  a  metal  sieve,  Fig.  17,  is  substi- 
tuted for  the  glass  plate.  Upon  the  sieve  a  piece  of 
thick  cotton  cloth  saturated  with  oil  is  laid,  and  upon 
this  the  flowers  are  scattered,  and  left  there  until  fresh 
ones  have  to  be  substituted.  The  operation  is  repeated 


62 


MANUFACTURE   OF   PERFUMERY. 


until  the  oil  is  sufficiently  impregnated  with  aroma,  when 
the  cloth  is  subjected  to  pressure  and  the  expressed  oil 
filtered. 


FIG.  17. 


Jill 


Mil 


rrm-rrn-rrr 


This  process  is  very  tedious,  requiring  much  labor 
and  a  long  time  for  the  impregnation  of  the  fat  or  oil, 
but,  notwithstanding  its  faults,  it  is  still  pursued  to  a 
great  extent,  some  French  firms  using  3000  such  frames 
during  the  season. 

With  the  apparatus,  shown  in  Fig.  18,  the  process  of 
absorption  can,  however,  be  conducted  with  very  little 
expense  of  labor  and  time.  It  has  the  further  advantage 
that  the  flowers  do  not  come  in  direct  contact  with  the 
fat,  whereby  a  saving  of  the  latter  is  effected,  and  it  is 
less  liable  to  rancidity. 

The  apparatus  consists  of  a  tall  wooden  box  provided 
with  doors  which  can  be  hermetically  closed.  In  the 
box  are  placed  upon  brackets  a  number  of  glass  plates, 
g,  so  arranged  one  above  the  other  that,  for  instance, 
those  with  uneven  numbers  are  on  the  left  side,  leaving 
an  open  space  to  the  right,  while  those  with  even  num- 
bers are  arranged  on  the  right  side  with  an  open  space 
to  the  left. 

From  the  bottom  of  the  box  a  pipe  passes  into  a  sheet- 
iron  cylinder,  Kf,  filled  loosely  with  flowers*  and  pro- 


< 


MATERIALS  FOR  MANUFACTURE  OF  PERFUMERY.      63 

vided  with  lateral  openings,  0  and  O1 '.     From  the  lid 
of  the  box  K  ascends  a  pipe,  e,  which  is  connected  with 

FIG.  18. 


a  small  ventilating  apparatus  kept  in  motion  by  a  clock- 
work and  weights.  This  ventilator  when  in  motion 
sucks  a  current  of  air  through  the  apparatus.  The  air 
enters  the  cylinder  Kf  at  0,  and  after  ascending  through 
the  flowers  and  becoming  impregnated  with  the  vapors 
of  the  volatile  oil  enters  through  the  opening  0'  into 
the  box  K  and,  in  passing  in  the  direction  indicated  by 
arrows,  over  the  plates  coated  with  fat,  yields  its  aroma 
to  them. 

Another  apparatus  for  the  same  purpose,  devised  by 
Piver,  is  shown  in  Fig.  19.     The  fat  is  converted  into 


64  MANUFACTURE   OF   PERFUMERY. 

thin  macaroni-like  threads  and  brought  upon  wire  gauze 
stretched  in  frames.  The  flowers  to  be  extracted  are 
piled  upon  tinned  metallic  plates,  and  the  trays  con- 
taining the  fat  and  the  flowers  are  placed  in  an  air-tight 

FIG.  19. 


chamber  arranged  as  shown  in  the  illustration.  The  air 
in  the  chamber  is  made  to  circulate  to  and  fro  by  the 
working  of  a  bellows  with  which  the  apparatus  is  pro- 
vided, whereby  the  fat  is  caused  to  absorb  the  odor  of 
the  flowers  very  rapidly  and  is  less  liable  to  rancidity. 


MATERIALS  FOR  MANUFACTURE  OF  PERFUMERY.      65 

The  absorption  process  is  employed  for  the  flowers  of 
the  jasmine  (jasminum  oderatissimum),  the  mignonnette 
(reseda  odorata),  the  violet  (viola  tricolor),  the  tuberose 
(polianihes  tuberosa\  etc. 

Storage  of  volatile  oils. — In  storing  volatile  oils,  they 
should  be  carefully  protected  from  light  and  air.  Some 
oils  become  darker  on  exposure  to  light,  while  others, 
for  instance,  lemon  oil,  become  colorless.  Most  volatile 
oils,  as  previously  mentioned,  absorb  oxygen  from  the 
air  with  avidity  and  combine  chemically  with  it. 
Thinly-fluid  oils  become  preceptibly  more  thickly-fluid 
and  finally  even  rigid,  the  product  of  oxidation  being  a 
resinous  body.  Some  volatile  oils  containing  aldehydes 
are  converted,  by  the  absorption  of  oxygen,  into  acids, 
cinnamic  acid  being,  for  instance,  formed  in  cinnamon 
oil,  and  benzoic  acid  in  oil  of  bitter  almonds. 

To  prevent  evaporation,  as  well  as  the  above-men- 
tioned effects  of  light  and  air,  the  volatile  oils  should 
be  preserved  in  not  too  large  glass  bottles  kept  as  full 
as  possible,  and  closed  with  a  good  cork,  over  which 
it  is  best  to  tie  a  piece  of  bladder.  The  bottles 
should  be  stored  in  a  cool,  shady  place.  The  preserva- 
tion of  the  oils  is  assisted  by  the  addition  of  0.5  to  1  per 
cent,  of  anhydrous  alcohol. 


66  MANUFACTURE   OF   PERFUMEKY. 


CHAPTEK  III. 

TESTING   VOLATILE   OILS. 

VOLATILE  oils  are  much  adulterated,  the  adulterations 
consisting  chiefly  in  mixing  an  expensive  oil  with  a 
cheaper  one  and  with  alcohol ;  more  rarely  with  chloro- 
form and  fat  oils.  To  these  adulterations,  which  have 
been  common  for  many  years,  has  recently  been  added 
the  previously  mentioned  hydrocarbon  called  terpene 
or  camphene,  which  is  separated  in  the  preparation  of 
concentrated  oils. 

For  the  recognition  of  the  quality  of  a  volatile  oil, 
serve  first  of  all  its  physical  properties,  especially  its 
color,  odor  and  taste.  The  specific  gravity  varies  too 
much  and  is  not  always  a  sufficient  criterion.  Reagents 
can  only  be  employed  with  a  few  oils.  The  chemical 
detection  of  adulterations  is  rendered  especially  difficult 
by  the  fact,  that  most  of  the  volatile  oils  form  a  mixture 
of  terpenes  with  other  combinations,  in  which  the  sepa- 
rate constituent  parts  do  not  appear  in  fixed,  but  in 
changeable  proportions,  and  in  which  the  constituents 
themselves  suffer  alteration  by  storing,  air  and  light. 

Odor  and  taste  are  so  characteristic  for  every  volatile 
oil  as  to  suffice  in  most  cases.  For  testing  as  to  odor, 
bring  a  drop  of  the  oil  to  be  examined  upon  the  dry 
palm  of  one  hand  and  for  some  time  rub  with  the  other, 
whereby  the  odor  is  more  perceptibly  brought  out.  To 


TESTING   VOLATILE   OILS.  67 

determine  the  taste,  vigorously  shake  one  drop  of  the  oil 
with  15  to  20  grammes  of  distilled  water  and  then  test 
with  the  tongue. 

An  adulteration  with  fat  oil  (poppy  oil,  castor  oil)  may 
be  recognized  as  follows  :  Place  a  drop  of  the  suspected 
oil  upon  blotting  paper  and  expose  it  to  the  heat  of  the 
water  bath.  If  it  evaporates  completely  and  no  stain  is 
perceptible,  the  oil  is  pure.  But  frequently  a  transpar- 
ent stain  remains  with  old  oils  without  their  being  adul- 
terated, which  is  due  to  the  resin  formed  by  the  absorp- 
tion of  oxygen  and  remaining  dissolved  in  the  oil.  In 
this  case  a  transparent  ring  is  generally  formed  by  the 
concentration  of  the  resin  on  the  edges  of  the  stain.  If 
no  tangible  results  are  obtained  by  this  test,  pour  a  few 
cubic  centimeters  of  the  oil  upon  a  watch-crystal  and 
heat  it  very  slowly  upon  a  piece  of  sheet-iron,  until  all 
the  odor  has  disappeared.  If  the  watch-crystal  be- 
comes empty  in  a  short  time,  nothing  but  volatile  oil 
was  present ;  but  if  a  viscous  residue  remains,  this  may 
consist  either  of  fatty  oil  or  resin,  or  of  both.  Treat  the 
residue  with  strong  alcohol ;  if  it  dissolves  it  may  be 
resin  or  castor  oil.  Dilute  the  solution  with  much 
water ;  a  white  flocculent  turbidity  indicates  resin ;  the 
separation  of  an  oily  liquid,  after  standing,  castor  oil.  If 
the  residue  remains  undissolved,  it  consists  of  a  fatty  oil, 
generally  oil  of  almond  or  olive. 

The  presence  of  castor  oil  can  be  accurately  deter- 
mined by  bringing  the  residue  from  the  watch-crystal 
into  a  test-tube  by  means  of  a  glass-rod,  and  com- 
pounding it  with  a  few  drops  of  nitric  acid.  A  strong 
development  of  gas  takes  place,  after  the  cessation  of 
which,  solution  of  carbonate  of  soda  is  added  as  long  as 


68  MANUFACTURE   OF   PERFUMERY. 

there  is  any  sign  of  effervescence.  If  the  added  oil  was 
castor  oil,  the  contents  of  the  test-tube  will  show  a 
peculiar  odor  due  to  osnauthylic  acid  formed  by  the  ac- 
tion of  nitric  acid  upon  castor  oil. 

Another  method  of  establishing  the  presence  of  fat  oil 
consists  in  mixing  the  suspected  oil  with  eight  times  its 
quantity  of  90  per  cent,  alcohol  (specific  gravity  0.823). 
If  the  oil  is  unadulterated  a  clear  solution  is  formed ;  if 
it  contains  fat  oil,  the  latter  remains  undissolved.  The 
presence  of  castor  oil,  which  of  the  fat  oils  is  chiefly 
used  for  adulteration,  is,  however,  not  shown  by  this 
method,  it  being  also  soluble  in  alcohol. 

A  permanent  stain  upon  the  paper  may,  however, 
also  be  formed  by  fresh  oils  obtained  by  expression  from 
the  respective  parts  of  the  plant.  Thus,  lemon  oil  ob- 
tained by  expression  from  the  peel,  and  which  has  a  far 
more  agreeable  odor  than  that  produced  by  distillation, 
always  leaves  behind  a  slight  grease-stain. 

Detection  of  alcohol  or  spirit  of  wine. — Independent 
of  the  alcohol  added  to  assist  the  preservation  of  some 
oils,  adulteration  with  alcohol  frequently  occurs,  especi- 
ally in  expensive  oils.  With  a  content  of  not  more 
than  3  per  cent,  of  alcohol,  it  suffices  to  allow  one  to 
two  drops  of  the  suspected  oil  to  fall  into  water.  In 
the  presence  of  alcohol,  the  drop  becomes  either  imme- 
diately surrounded  with  a  milky  zone,  or  it  becomes 
turbid  or  whitish  after  being  for  some  time  in  contact 
with  the  water.  DragendorfPs  test  is  based  upon  the 
fact  that  oils,  which  are  hydrocarbons,  suffer  no  change 
by  the  addition  of  sodium  (ten  drops  of  oil  and  a  small 
chip  of  sodium),  while  oils  containing  hydrocarbons  and 
oxygenated  oils  cause  with  sodium  a  slight  evolution  of 


TESTJNG   VOLATILE   OILS.  69 

hydrogen  gas,  and  suffer  but  a  slight  change  during  the 
first  five  to  ten  minutes  of  the  reaction.  If,  however, 
the  oil  is  adulterated  with  alcohol,  not  only  a  violent 
evolution  of  hydrogen  gas  takes  place,  but  the  oil  in  a 
short  time  becomes  brown  or  dark  brown,  thickly  fluid 
or  rigid. 

The  detection  of  alcohol  by  means  of  fuchsine,  which 
has  been  frequently  recommended,  requires  special  pre- 
cautions. It  must  first  be  ascertained  that  the  oil  is  free 
from  acids  and  water ;  if  such  is  not  the  case,  they  must 
be  removed  by  means  of  caustic  potash.  After  settling, 
bring,  by  means  of  a  dry  pipette,  about  five  cubic  cen- 
timeters of  the  oil  into  a  dry  test-tube  about  ten  milli- 
meters in  diameter,  without  moistening  the  walls  of  the 
upper  half  of  the  tube.  Then  bring,  by  means  of  a 
paper  gutter,  a  few  milligrammes  of  coarsely-powdered 
fuchsine  into  the  dry  part  of  the  obliquely  held  tube,  at 
a  distance  of  one  centimeter  from  the  oil.  Now  heat 
gradually  over  a  lamp  until  the  tube  begins  to  tarnish. 
With  pure  oil  no  evaporation  is  observed,  but  if  the  oil 
contains  only  0.1  per  cent,  of  alcohol,  every  speck  of 
fuchsine  will,  after  heating  to  boiling  and  setting  aside, 
be  surrounded  by  a  stain  produced  by  the  alcoholic 
solution.  The  chief  requirement  for  this  test  is  that  the 
oil  be  free  from  water.  If  such  is  not  the  case,  vapors  will 
be  observed,  which  condense  in  the  upper  portion  of  the 
test-tube,  and  dissolve  fuchsine,  and,  after  flowing  back, 
sink  below  the  oil  with  a  crackling  noise.  If  the  oil 
contains  alcohol,  the  condensing  vapors  dissolve  fuch- 
sine with  greater  ease,  and  in  flowing  back  mix  without 
crackling. 

Hager's  tannin  test  is  very  reliable.     Bring  into  a 


70  MANUFACTURE    OF    PERFUMERY. 

test-tube  5  to  10  drops  of  the  oil  to  be  examined,  add  a 
piece  of  tannin  the  size  of  a  pea,  shake  so  that  the 
tannin  is  moistened  by  the  oil,  and  let  the  whole  stand 
at  a  temperature  of  59°  to  68°  F.  In  most  volatile 
oils  tannin  is  insoluble,  and,  if  the  oil  is  pure,  floats  for 
days  on  the  surface  without  change.  If,  however,  the 
oil  contains  alcohol,  the  tannin  absorbs  the  latter,  accord- 
ing to  the  quantity  present,  in  3  to  48  hours,  and  forms 
with  it  a  more  or  less  transparent,  viscous,  tough,  or 
smeary  mass  resembling  a  soft  resin,  which  settles  on 
the  bottom,  and  adheres  so  firmly  to  it,  as  well  as  to 
the  sides  of  the  tube,  that  it  cannot  be  moved  by  shak- 
ing. The  mass  may  be  examined  as  to  its  consistency 
with  a  knitting  needle.  Traces  of  moisture  in  the  oil 
are  not  detrimental  to  the  test,  the  tannin  mass  separat- 
ing in  the  form  of  a  hyaline  mass  only  in  few  oils,  and 
if  this  mass  is  tested  with  the  knitting  needle  it  will  be 
found  not  tough  or  smeary,  but  hard,  and  may  some- 
times be  divided  into  small  grains.  With  oil  of  bitter 
almonds,  cassia  oil,  and  some  oils  of  clove,  as  well  as 
volatile  oil  containing  an  acid,  the  tannin  test  is  not 
available.  The  first  two  oils  even  dissolve  tannin,  and 
large  quantities  of  it,  if  they  contain  alcohol. 

The  above-mentioned  oils  may,  however,  be  rendered 
fit  for  the  tannin  test  by  mixing  them  with  double  their 
volume  of  benzine  or  petroleum-ether,  and  allowing  the 
mixture  to  stand  for  two  or  three  days.  If,  however, 
the  oils  contain  much  alcohol,  the  tannin  is  dissolved. 
The  use  of  powdered  tannin  is  not  advisable,  because  it 
generally  deposits  in  a  thin  layer  on  the  bottom,  and  its 
alteration  is  not  so  perceptible.  If,  for  practical  reasons, 
a  content  of  0.5  per  cent,  anhydrous  alcohol  might  be 


TESTING   VOLATILE   OILS.  71 

accepted  as  permissible  in  a  volatile  oil,  the  tannin  test 
would  have  to  be  so  modified  as  to  mix  10  drops  of 
the  oil  with  a  piece  of  tannin  the  size  of  two  peas, 
and  allow  the  whole  to  stand  for  one  hour.  In  this 
time  the  above-mentioned  content  of  alcohol  would  yield 
no  result. 

Detection  of  chloroform. — An  adulteration  with  chlo- 
roform, if  moderate,  cannot  always  be  detected  by  the 
odor  and  taste.  In  most  cases,  chloroform  will  consid- 
erably increase  the  specific  gravity  of  the  oil.  Bring 
into  a  test-tube  15  drops  of  the  suspected  oil,  45  to  90 
drops  of  alcohol,  and  30  to  40  drops  of  dilute  sulphuric 
acid.  After  thorough  shaking,  add  2  or  3  shavings  of 
zinc  sheet  and  heat  until  a  vigorous  evolution  of  hydro- 
gen takes  place.  After  again  shaking,  set  the  whole 
aside,  and  heat  again  when  the  evolution  of  gas  becomes 
weaker.  This  heating  and  gentle  shaking  of  the  fluid  is 
several  times  repeated.  After  20  to  25  minutes,  com- 
pound the  fluid  with  an  equal  volume  of  cold  distilled 
water,  shake  vigorously  and  filter  through  a  paper-filter 
moistened  with  water.  Strongly  acidulate  the  filtrate 
with  nitric  acid  and  compound  with  nitrate  of  silver 
solution.  If  chloroform  is  present,  turbidity  or  a  pre- 
cipitate of  chloride  of  silver  appears. 

Detection  of  benzine. — An  adulteration  with  benzine 
can  be  readily  detected  only  in  oils  specifically  heavier 
than  water.  The  separation  of  benzine  is  effected  by 
distillation  from  a  small  glass  flask  in  the  water  bath. 
The  distillate  together  with  an  equal  volume  of  nitric 
acid  of  1.5  specific  gravity  is  gently  heated  in  a  test- 
tube.  A  too  vigorous  reaction  is  modified  by  cooling  in 
cold  water,  and  a  too  sluggish  action  quickened  by  gentle 


72  MANUFACTURE   OF   PERFUMERY. 

heating  (dipping  in  warm  water).  If  the  mixture  has  a 
yellow  color,  dilute  it  with  water,  shake  with  ether, 
mix  the  decanted  ethereal  solution  with  alcohol  and  hy- 
drochloric acid,  add  some  zinc  and  place  the  whole  in  a 
lukewarm  place  to  convert  the  nitrobenzol  formed  into 
aniline.  After  evolution  of  hydrogen  is  done,  neutralize 
with  potash  lye,  shake,  take  oft"  the  layer  of  ether,  let  the 
latter  evaporate  and  add  to  the  residue  a  few  drops  of 
calcium  chloride  solution.  If  benzine  is  present,  a 
blue-violet  color  reaction  takes  place. 

Adulterations  with  alcohol,  chloroform,  and  benzine 
are  quantitatively  determined  by  bringing  a  weighed 
quantity  of  the  oil  into  a  glass  flask  so  that  it  occupies 
about  four-fifths  of  the  volume  of  the  flask.  Place 
upon  the  flask  a  cork  through  which  has  been  passed  a 
glass-tube  bent  at  a  right  angle  and  provided  with  a 
cylindrical  glass  vessel  serving  as  a  receiver  and  heating 
in  the  water  bath.  If  the  distance  from  the  level  of  the 
oil  to  the  angle  of  the  glass  tube  in  which  it  inclines 
downwards,  amounts,  for  instance,  to  4.72  inches,  and 
the  neck  of  the  flask  up  to  its  angle  is  2.75  inches  high 
outside  of  the  direct  effect  of  the  heat  of  the  water  bath, 
only  the  above-mentioned  adulterants  distill  over,  while 
the  vapor  of  the  volatile  oil  condenses  at  a  height  of  2.75 
inches  and  flows  back  into  the  flask  The  distillate  is 
weighed  and  examined  as  to  its  derivation.  First  add 
one  cubic  centimeter  of  it  to  two  or  three  cubic  centi- 
meters of  potassium  acetate  solution  of  specific  gravity 
1.197  and  shake  moderately.  If  a  clear  mixture  results, 
alcohol  alone  is  present.  If,  however,  the  mixture  is 
not  clear,  and  the  distilled  fluid  sinks  down  and  collects 
on  the  bottom  of  the  test-tube,  chloroform  is  very  likely 


TESTING    VOLATILE   OILS.  73 

present,  and  if  it  remains  floating  upon  the  acetate  solu- 
tion, benzine.  Next  bring  two  to  three  centimeters  of 
the  distillate  into  a  test-tube  and  add  a  piece  of  sodium 
metal,  the  size  of  a  pea.  If  violent  foaming,  i.  e.,  an 
evolution  of  gas,  takes  place,  alcohol  is  certainly 
present,  and  possibly  also  chloroform  and  benzine 
towards  which  sodium  is  indifferent.  However,  in  the 
presence  of  benzine,  the  sodium  solution  would  be 
colorless,  and  in  the  presence  of  chloroform,  yellowish 
and  turbid.  In  case  the  sodium  produces  no  reaction 
and  alcohol  is,  therefore,  not  present,  add  an  e^ual  vol- 
ume (two  to  three  cubic  centimeters)  of  anhydrous  alco- 
hol, and  after  moderately  shaking  allow  the  solution  of 
the  sodium  and  the  evolution  of  gas  to  proceed,  whereby 
benzine  produces  a  nearly  colorless,  turbid  fluid,  and 
chloroform  a  yellowish,  milky  one.  Now  dilute  the 
fluid  with  an  equal  or  double  volume  of  water,  shake 
and  allow  the  mixture  to  stand  quietly.  In  the  presence 
of  benzine  a  colorless,  turbid  layer  collects  on  the  bot- 
tom of  the  fluid,  wrhile  that  collecting  in  the  presence 
of  chloroform  is  yellowish.  In  the  latter  case,  i.  e.,  in  the 
presence  of  chloroform,  the  aqueous  filtrate  yields  with 
lead  acetate  solution  a  white  precipitate  (lead  chloride 
and  lead  hydroxide).  The  adulterant  having  thus  been 
recognized,  further  particulars  are  learned  from  the 
specific  gravity  of  the  oil  as  well  as  of  the  distillate. 

Adulterations  with  terpenes  or  terpene-like  fluids,  such 
as  are  gained  in  the  preparation  of  concentrated  or 
patent  oils,  are  difficult  to  recognize.  They  may  be 
detected  by  the  specific  gravity,  the  terpenes  being,  as 
a  rule,  specifically  lighter,  their  specific  gravity  varying 
between  0.840  and  0.870. 


74  MANUFACTURE   OF   PERFUMERY. 

The  detection  of  adulterations  with  volatile  oils  of  a 
lower  quality  is  very  difficult,  if  not  led  to  it  by  the  odor 
and  taste.  Many  methods  for  establishing  such  adul- 
terations have  been  proposed,  of  which  the  following  are 
the  most  important : — 

I.  Test  with  iodine. — This  test  is  based  upon  the  fact 
that  some  oils  violently  detonate  with  iodine,  while 
others  develop  heat  and  vapors,  and  others  again  remain 
indifferent.  For  this  test  pour  upon  about  0.19  gramme 
of  dry  iodine  in  a  watch-crystal  4  to  6  drops  of  the  oil 
to  be  examined. 

1.  A  vigorous  reaction  (detonation)  with  considerable 
increase  in  the  temperature  and  emission  of  vapors  takes 
place  with  the  following  oils  :  oils  of  bergamot,  lemon, 
lavender,  nutmeg,  orange  peel,  spike,  turpentine,  worm- 
wood. 

2.  Such  a  reaction  as  mentioned  under  1,  does  not 
take  place  with  oils  of  bitter  almonds,  copaiba,  calamus, 
clove,  peppermint,  rose. 

3.  Moderate  heating  and  slight  vapors  are  developed 
with  oils  of  anise-seed,  fennel,   camomile,  curly  mint, 
marjoram,  rosemary,  sassafras,  thyme. 

When  an  oil  of  the  second  series  becomes  heated  with 
iodine  and  evolves  vapors,  it  may  first  of  all  be  adul- 
terated with  cheaper  oils.  This  may  also  be  the  case 
when  an  oil  of  the  third  series  reacts  violently  with 
iodine  and  evolves  vapors  with  strong  heating.  For- 
merly the  iodine  test  was  highly  valued ;  it  has,  how- 
ever, been  shown  to  be  unreliable  since  it  is  frequently 
dependent  on  the  age  of  the  oil. 

In  place  of  iodine,  Rudolph  Eck  recommends  a  very 
dilute  alcoholic  iodine  solution,  which  is  not  discolored 


TESTING   VOLATILE   OILS.  75 

by  oils  of  turpentine,  while  other  oils  discolor  it.  Dis- 
solve a  drop  of  the  oil  to  be  examined  in  3  cubic  cen- 
timeters of  90  to  100  per  cent,  alcohol,  and  add  a  drop 
of  the  iodine  solution.  The  latter  is  not  discolored  in 
the  presence  of  an  oil  of  turpentine.  There  are  also, 
however,  several  volatile  oils,  which  do  not  discolor  the 
iodine  solution.  Mierzinski  mentions  the  following : 
All  cold-expressed  oils  from  the  Aurantiacece,  further 
oils  of  coriander,  caraway,  galanga,  rue,  sassafras,  rose, 
rosemary,  anise-seed,  fennel,  calamus,  neroli,  angelica, 
wormwood.  Hence,  this  reaction  can-not  be  relied  upon. 
II.  Hoppers  nitroprusside  of  copper  test. — This  test 
sometimes  gives  good  results,  but  only  with  hydrocar- 
bons absolutely  free  from  oxygen  and  oxygenated  oils. 
It  is,  therefore,  not  suitable  for  oils  derived  from  the 
Aurantiaeece.  The  process  is  as  follows :  Add  to  a 
small  quantity  of  the  oil  to  be  examined  in  a  per- 
fectly dry  test-tube,  2  to  5  milligrammes  of  pure 
nitroprusside  of  copper  previously  thoroughly  dried 
and  finely  pulverized,  shake  vigorously  and  gradually 
heat  to  boiling.  After  boiling  for  a  few  seconds 
allow  to  cool.  If  the  oil  is  free  from  oil  of  turpentine, 
or  another  oil  containing  no  oxygen,  the  precipitate 
formed  is  brown,  black,  or  gray,  and  according  to 
the  quantity  of  the  reagent  added  and  the  original 
color  of  the  oil,  the  supernatant  oil  will  be  differently 
colored  and  appear  more  or  less  dark.  If,  however,  the 
oil  is  adulterated  with  oil  of  turpentine,  the  precipitate 
formed  shows  a  handsome  green  or  blue-green  color, 
while  the  supernatant  oil  retains  its  original  color  or  at 
the  utmost  acquires  a  very  slightly  darker  one.  The 
longer  the  oil  is  allowed  to  stand  after  settling,  the  more 


76  MANUFACTURE   OF   PERFUMERY. 

distinct  and  beautiful  the  color  of  the  oil  and  of  the  pre- 
cipitate appears.  For  the  establishment  and  certain 
recognition  of  very  small  quantities  of  oil  of  turpentine 
in  oxygenated  oils,  it  is  best  to  first  add  very  little  of 
the  nitroprusside  of  copper  to  the  oil  to  be  tested,  and 
a  larger  quantity  o~ily  after  being  convinced  either  of 
the  purity  or  adulteration  of  the  oil.  This  is  done  to  be 
able,  on  the  one  hand,  better  to  judge  the  reaction,  if  the 
oil  is  pure,  and,  on  the  other,  if  it  is  adulterated,  to 
establish  such  adulteration  with  certainty  and  to  ap- 
proximately estimate  the  quantity  of  oil  of  turpentine 
present.  The  less  nitroprusside  of  copper  is  used,  the 
better  small  quantities  of  oil  of  turpentine  can  be 
detected. 

Nearly  all  volatile  oils  free  from  oxygen  show  the 
same  behavior  towards  nitroprusside  of  copper;  they 
decompose  it,  which  is  not  the  case  with  oxygenated  oils. 
The  behavior,  of  the  latter  is  shown  in  the  following 
table :— 


TESTING   VOLATILE   OILS. 


77 


Name  of 

the  oil. 

Color  of  the 
oil. 

Proportion 
of  nitro- 
prusside  of 
copper  to  oil. 

Color  of  the  oil  after 
the  experiment. 

Color  of  the 
precipitate. 

Caraway   .    . 

clear  as  water 

1    1000  parts 

slightly  yellowish 

dirty  gray. 

and  colorless 

Fennel     V   ." 
Dill  .... 

pale  yellowish 
pale  reddish- 

1    1000     " 
1    1000     " 

brownish-yellow 
becomes  first  color- 

black. 

yellow 

less,  then  yellowish 

Anise-seed    . 

pale  yellow 

1    1000     '$ 

yellow 

" 

Camomile 

(green)  .    . 
Lavender  .    . 

yellowish 
pale  yellow 

1    1000     '• 
1     1000     " 

brownish-yellow 
wine-yellow 

ash-gray, 
slate-gray. 

u 

M 

1      100     " 

brown-yellow 

** 

Mint  (curly) 

colorless 

1    1000     " 

wine-yellow 

first  gray, 

then  black. 

Peppermint 

»« 

1     1000     " 

yellowish 

black. 

" 

" 

1      100     " 

brownish-yellow 

«« 

Balm     .    .    . 

yellow 

1    1000     " 

dark  wine-yellow 

" 

Marjoram 

colorless 

1     1000     " 

yellowish 

" 

" 

" 

1      100     " 

brown-yellow 

*< 

Sage      .    .    ! 

slightly  yel- 

1    1000     " 

wine-yellow 

dark  green. 

lowish 

"       ... 

" 

1      100     " 

brown-yellow 

dark  green. 

then  nearly 

black. 

Thyme  (field) 

" 

1    1000     " 

brownish-yellow 

slate-gray. 

Wormwood  . 

yellow-brown 

1      100     " 
1    1000     " 

dark  brown-yellow 
dark  brown 

nearly  black, 
black. 

Tansy   .    .    . 

pale  yellow 

1    1000     " 

red-brown 

dirty  brown. 

Milfoil       .    . 

dark  azure- 

1    1000     " 

first  pale  blue,  then 

gray-brown. 

blue 

dark  green 

Cajeput     .    . 

colorless 

1    1000     " 

brownish-yellow 

black. 

Clove    .    .    . 

slightly  yel- 

1   2000     " 

rose-red  and  clear 

slate-gray. 

lowish 

"        ... 

" 

1    1000     " 

violet-red  and  clear 

" 

"        ... 

" 

1      500     " 

cherry-red  and 

" 

" 

« 

1      100     " 

opaque 
dark  cherry-red 

« 

and  opaque 

Cassia  .    .    . 

brownish- 

1    1000     " 

brownish-red  to 

black. 

yellow 

hyacinth-red 

** 

*' 

1      100     " 

dark  brown-red 

** 

Sassafras  .    . 
Star  anise 

yellowish 
pale  yellow 

1     1000     " 
1    1000     " 

yellowish-brown 
dark  wine-yellow 

„ 

Valerian   .    . 
Rue  .... 

pale  greenish 
slightly  yel- 

1     100     " 
1      100     " 

brownish-yellow 
brown-yellow 

ash-gray. 

lowish 

Bergamotte  . 

yellowish 

1    1000     " 

dark  yellow 

" 

1      100     " 

brownish-red 

If  these  oxygenated  oils  are  mixed  with  oils  free  from 
oxygen,  for  instance,  oil  of  turpentine,  they  show  exactly 
the  same  behavior  as  oils  free  from  oxygen ;  the  nitro- 
prusside  of  copper  is  not  decomposed  and  retains  its 
gray-green  color.  If,  for  instance,  oil  of  cloves  is 


78  MANUFACTURE   OF   PERFUMERY. 

mixed   with  oil   of  turpentine,   the  red  coloration  by 
nitroprusside  of  copper  does  not  appear. 

III.  Hager's  alcohol  and  sulphuric  acid  test. — Bring 
into  a  test-tube  of  about  0.5  inch  diameter,  five  to  six 
drops  of  the  oil  to  be  tested  and  twenty-five  to  thirty  drops 
of  pure  concentrated  sulphuric  acid,  and  mix  the  two  fluids 
by  shaking,  whereby  either 'no  heating  takes  place  or  a 
scarcely  perceptible  one,  or  the  heating  is  strong  or  very 
vigorous  and  in  some  cases  increased  to  the  evolution  of 
vapors.     The  mixture  is  either  clear  or  turbid.     After 
complete  cooling,  add  to  the  mixture  eight  to  ten  cubic 
centimeters  of  90  per  cent,  alcohol,  and  after  closing  the 
tube  with  the  finger,  shake  vigorously.     The  mixture 
now  shows  a  different  color,  is  clear  or  turbid,  and  the 
deposit  formed  after  standing  for  one  day  is  also  differ- 
ently colored  and  either  soluble  or  insoluble  in  boiling 
alcohol. 

The  mixture  of  oil,  sulphuric  acid  and  alcohol  is  per- 
fectly clear  and  transparent  with  oils  of  bitter  almonds, 
fennel,  clove  and  rose ;  with  anise-seed  oil  and  star  anise- 
seed  oil  only  the  alcoholic  layer  over  the  mixture  of  sul- 
phuric acid  and  oil  is  clear.  The  mixture  of  oil,  acid  and 
alcohol  is  slightly  turbid  or  nearly  clear  with  oils  of 
valerian,  peppermint  and  field  thyme.  With  most  of  the 
other  volatile  oils  occurring  in  commerce,  the  mixture 
is  more  or  less  milky  turbid.  Heating  of  the  oil  and  acid 
mixtures  does  not  take  place  with  pyrogenous  oils  (pe- 
troleum, benzine)  or  only  to  a  very  slight  degree,  as  with 
oils  of  peppermint  and  mustard. 

IV.  Hager's  guaiacum  reaction*  serves  for  the  detec- 

*  Hager,  Chemische  Reactionen  zur  Nachweise  des  Terpentinoels 
in  den  aetherischen  Oelen,  etc.  Berlin,  1885. 


TESTING   VOLATILE   OILS.  79 

t  ion  of  oil  of  turpentine  in  a  volatile  oil.  By  pouring  upon 
as  much  guaiacum,  freshly  powdered,  as  will  lie  upon  the 
point  of  a  small  knife,  in  a  test-tube  1  cubic  centi- 
meter (25  drops)  of  spike  oil,  and  heating  nearly  to  boil- 
ing over  a  petroleum  lamp,  the  oil  after  being  removed 
from  the  flame  and  allowing  the  undissolved  resin  to 
settle,  shows  a  yellow  color.  By  now  pouring  upon  an 
equal  quantity  of  guaiacum  in  another  test-tube  25  drops 
of  spike  oil  and  5  drops  of  rectified  oil  of  turpentine, 
and  heating  nearly  to  boiling,  the  oil  after  being  re- 
moved from  the  flame  shows  a  dark  violet  color. 
Various  other  oils  behave  in  the  same  manner  as  spike 
oil,  and  hence  a  content  of  oil  of  turpentine  can  be 
readily  detected  in  them.  Other  oils  do  not  exhibit  this 
behavior ;  but  this  can  be  remedied  by  adding,  in  test- 
ing for  oil  of  turpentine,  a  few  drops  of  an  oil  of  the 
first  class. 

The  guaiacum  reaction  is  an  ozone  reaction  and  with 
reference  to  this,  the  volatile  oils  may  be  divided  into 
three  classes : — 

a.  Oils  inclining  to  the  formation  of  ozone. — Foremost 
of  these  is  oil  of  turpentine,  especially  when  rectified. 
Oils  of  tansy,  rue,  mint,  juniper,  zedoary,  etc.,  show  con- 
siderably less  inclination. 

b.  Oils  which,  especially  when  heated,  directly  incite  the 
oil  of  turpentine  to  form  ozone,  and  to  color  guaiacum 
violet  or  blue. — Such  oils  are  many  kinds  of  oil  of  cit- 
ronella,  oils  of  spike,  calamus,  cedar,  etc. 

c.  Oils  with  a  content  of  oil  of  turpentine,  which  re- 
main indifferent  towards  guaiacum. — To  such  oils,  if  to 
be  tested  for  oil  of  turpentine,  with  the  assistance  of  the 


80  MANUFACTURE   OF   PERFUMERY. 

guaiacum  reaction,  a  few  drops  of  an  oil  of  the  second 
class  have  to  be  added. 

Y.  Hiibl's  iodine  method. — Mr.  C.  Barenthin  has 
applied  Hiibl's  iodine  method  for  fixed  oils  to  the 
examination  of  volatile  oils.  He  uses  the  following 
solutions : — 

1.  Fifty  grammes  iodine  and  60  grammes  of  mercuric 
chloride  in  a  liter  of  alcohol  freed  from  fusel  oil,  and 
let  stand  for  12  hours. 

2.  Twenty-four  grammes  of  hyposulphite  of  sodium 
in  a  liter  of  water. 

3.  A  ten  per  cent,  solution  of  iodide  of  potassium. 
Dissolve  0.1   to  0.2  gramme  of  the  volatile  oil  in  10 
cubic  centimeters  of  chloroform,  and  add  first   15  cubic 
centimeters  of  the  iodine-mercuric  chloride  solution  ;  let 
stand  three  or  four  hours,  and,  in  case  the  mixture  gets 
discolored,  add  a  few  more  centimeters  of  solution.    Now 
add   10  to   15  cubic  centimeters   iodide  of   potassium 
solution,  dilute  with  150  cubic  centimeters  of  water,  and 
titrate  with  hyposulphite  till  the  mixture  remains  clear 
for  about  a  minute.     The  iodide  of  potassium  solution 
must  be  added  before  the  water,  and  the  relative  propor- 
tions  between   this   solution   and   the    iodine-mercuric 
chloride  solution  must  be  15  to  20  cubic  centimeters. 
The  quantity  of  iodine  solution  consumed  is  calculated 
to  iodine  for  100  parts  and  the  figure  thus  obtained  is 
designated  as  the  "  iodine  number." 

Barenthin  has  in  this  manner  determined  the  iodine 
number  of  several  volatile  oils;  other  experimenters, 
however,  for  instance,  Kremel  and  Davies,*  have  found 

*  Pliarm.  Centralh.  1888,  S.  482  u.  555  ;  1889,  S.  133. 


TESTING   VOLATILE   OILS.  81 

different  numbers  for  the  same  oils,  so  that  this  method 
requires  further  thorough  examination  before  it  can  be 
classed  as  available. 

VI.  A.  Krernel  has  endeavored  to  utilize  titration 
or  saponification  with  alcoholic  potash  lye  for  the  exami- 
nation of  volatile  oils.  In  his  experiments  he  was  guided 
by  the  following  points  :  A  series  of  volatile  oils  contains 
partially  free  organic  acids,  like  oils  of  bitter  almonds 
and  cinnamon,  and  partially  aldehydes  or  other  combina- 
tions. Now  it  seems  not  impossible,  that  up  to  a  certain 
limit,  the  quantities  of  these  combinations  in  the  separate 
volatile  oils  remain  constant,  thus  presenting  the  oppor- 
tunity of  testing  the  respective  oils  as  to  their  quality 
and  purity  by  saponification.  In  some  cases  these  com- 
binations are  the  chief  bearers  of  the  specific  odor,  and 
hence  the  determination  of  the  "  saponification  number" 
becomes  of  double  value.  It  is,  of  course,  self-evident 
that  not  every  volatile  oil  can  be  saponified,  and  Kremel 
admits  that,  even  where  saponification  takes  place,  it  is 
not  in  every  case  a  sure  test. 

The  execution  of  the  method  is  as  follows :  Dissolve 
1  gramme  of  the  oil  to  be  examined  in  2  to  3  cubic  cen- 
timeters of  90  per  cent,  alcohol  freed  from  acid,  com- 
pound the  solution  with  a  few  drops  of  phenol-phthalein 
solution,  and  titrate  the  free  acid  with  J  normal  alcoholic 
potash  lye.  The  milligrammes  of  caustic  potash  used 
are  designated  the  "  acid  number"  After  having  thus 
determined  the  content  of  acid,  add  to  the  same  solu- 
tion 10  cubic  centimeters  of  the  same  potash  lye,  heat 
for  J  hour  upon  the  water  bath,  and  then  titrate  back  the 
excess  of  potash  lye  with  J  normal  hydrochloric  acid. 
In  this  manner  the  "  saponification  number"  is  obtained. 
6 


82  MANUFACTURE   OF   PERFUMERY. 

(In  some  cases  when  the  final  reaction  is  not  plainly  per- 
ceptible, it  is  advisable  to  correspondingly  dilute  with 
water  after  heating  the  alcoholic  fluid.)  The  saponifi- 
cation  number,  less  the  acid  number,  gives  the  "  ether 
or  ester  number" 

Kremel  has  in  this  manner  examined  a  large  number 
of  volatile  oils  and  partially  obtained  surprising  results. 
Rose  oil  gives  a  saponification  number  of  12,  and 
geranium  oils  one  of  40  to  50.  While  lavender  oils 
give  very  high  saponification  numbers,  oil  of  lemons  does 
not.  Artificial  oil  of  bitter  almonds  shows  higher 
saponification  numbers  than  the  natural  oil.  By  further 
compounding  the  saponified  portions  of  the  latter  with 
acid,  a  crystalline  precipitate  of  benzoin  is  formed,  the 
quantity  of  which  amounts  to  from  40  to  50  per  cent,  of 
the  oil  used.  Such  a  precipitate,  but  only  in  very  small 
quantities,  is  also  formed  in  peach  kernel  oil,  but  not  in 
other  similar  oils  nor  in  artificial  oil  of  bitter  almonds. 

VII.  F.  R.  Williams  has  recently  endeavored  to 
utilize  for  testing  volatile  oils  Maumen^'s  test,  which  is 
based  upon  the  increase  in  temperature  produced  in  oils 
by  concentrated  sulphuric  acid,  and  which  gives  valuable 
points  for  the  examination  of  some  fat  oils.  Of  course, 
the  large  quantities  of  oil  otherwise  prescribed  cannot  be 
used.  While  for  the  examination  of  fat  oils  50  grammes 
of  oil  are  mixed  with  10  cubic  centimeters  of  concen- 
trated sulphuric  acid  in  a  beaker  glass  wrapped  around 
with  cotton,  Williams  could  use  only  six  cubic  centi- 
meters of  volatile  "oil.  They  were  brought  into  a  very 
small  beaker  glass  enveloped  in  cotton.  After  reading 
off  the  temperature,  twelve  cubic  centimeters  of  concen- 
trated sulphuric  acid  were  added  and  the  whole  stirred 


TESTING   VOLATILE   OILS.  83 

with  the  thermometer  until  the  temperature  no  longer 
rose.  Numbers  were  in  this  manner  obtained  which 
might  in  some  cases,  for  instance,  cassia  oil,  furnish 
guiding  points  for  judging  the  purity  of  the  "oil. 

Planchon  proposes  the  following  procedure  in  order 
to  recognize  a  volatile  oil : — 

A.   The  oil  is  specifically  lighter  than  water. 

1.  The  substance  is  solid  and  only  melts  at  347°  F. : 
.  Camphor. 

2.  The  oil  at  a  temperature  of  over  32°  F.  contains  a 
crystalline  stearoptene. 

a.  The  oil  is  laevorotatory,  the  stearoptene  melts  at 

77°  F.,  and,  on  adding  sulphuric  acid,  a  clear 
solution  remains  behind  :  Rose  oil. 

b.  The  oil  possesses  no  rotatory  power,  the  stearop- 

tene melts  at  50°  F.,  and,  on  adding  sulphuric 
acid,  two  layers  are  formed,  only  one  of  which 
is  liquid  :  Anise-seed  oil. 

c.  The  oil  is  dextrorotatory,  the  stearoptene  melts  at 

41°  F.,  and,  on  adding  sulphuric  acid,  a  nearly 
colorless  fluid  remains  behind  :  Fennel  oil. 

3.  The  oil  is  perfectly  fluid  and  clear  at  above  32°  F. 
I.  The  oil  explodes  with  iodine,  emitting  violet  vapors. 

a.  The  oil  thickens  in  the  air  and  readily  forms  resin. 

It  requires  for  its  solution  several  volumes  of  al- 
cohol :  Oil  of  conifers. 

b.  The  oil,  on  exposure  to  the  air,  does  not  thicken 

and  but  slowly  forms  resin, 
o.  It  is  dextrorotatory. 

The  liquid  oil  dissolves  santalin :   Oil  of  the 
aurantiacece. 


84  MANUFACTURE   OF   PERFUMERY. 

The   thick   oil   does   not    dissolve    santalin : 

Mace  oil. 
j3.  The  oil  is  laevorotatory. 

The  oil  shows  an  acid  reaction  and  dissolves 

in  equal  parts  of  alcohol :  Lavender  oil. 
The  oil  shows  a  neutral  reaction  and  dissolves 
in  12  to  15  parts  of  alcohol :  Marjoram  oil. 
II.  The  oil  gives  no  explosion  with  iodine,  but  shows 
an  increase  in  temperature  with  or  without  emission  of 
red  vapors. 

a.  The  oil  shows  an  acid  reaction. 

a.  The  blue  or  green  oil  shows  the  acid  reaction 

only  indistinctly  :  Milfoil  oil. 
/3.  The  colorless  or  brown  oil  gives  a  turbid  fluid 

with  sulphuric  acid.     It  is  laevorotatory  : 

Spanish  marjoram  oil. 
The   oil  is  rendered  but  slightly  turbid  by 

sulphuric    acid;    it    acquires    a    red-violet 

color  by  nitric  acid,  has  no  effect  upon  the 

plane  of  polarization,  and  has  a  peculiar 

odor  :  Oil  of  valerian. 

b.  The  oil  is  neutral. 

a.  It  dissolves  with  difficulty  in  alcohol. 

j3.  The  oil  is  miscible  in  every  proportion  with 

alcohol. 
1.  It  is  dextrorotatory. 

The  oil  is  colorless  or  yellowish,  it  thick- 
ens on  exposure  to  the  air,  and  dissolves 
and  reduces  fuchsine :  Caraway  oil. 
The  oil  is  thick,  yellow-brown  or  red- 
yellow,  and  has  a  peculiar  odor  :  Cala- 
mus oil. 


TESTING  VOLATILE   OILS.  85 

2.  The  oil  is  laevorotatory. 

It  is  fluid  and  has  an  aromatic  odor: 

Rosemary  oil. 
The    oil    is   thick    and   very  pungent : 

Onbebs  oil. 

III.  The  oil  dissolves  iodine  without  vigorous  reac- 
tion and  without  an  increase  in  the  temperature. 

a.  The  oil  is  blue  and  green. 

It  has  an  agreeable,  camphor-like  odor  :  Camomile 
oil. 

The  green  oil  thickens  in  the  air  and  is  dextro- 
rotatory :  Wormwood  oil. 

The  oil  is  generally  green  and  produces  no  effect 
upon  the  plane  of  polarization  :  Cajeput  oil. 

b.  The  oil  is  colorless  or  yellow-brown. 

a.  It  separates  a  solid  stearoptene  at  about  32° 

F. :  Rue  oil. 

|3.  The  oil  remains  liquid  at  several  degrees  be- 
low 32°  F. 

1.  Dextrorotatory  oils. 

The  oil  shows  an  acid  reaction,  and  gives 
with  sulphuric  acid  a  somewhat  turbid 
solution,  which  becomes  clear  by  the 
addition  of  alcohol :  Dill  oil. 
The  oil  gives  with  sulphuric  acid  a  yel- 
low-red turbid  solution,  which  becomes 
clear  and  peach-blossom  red  by  the  ad- 
dition of  alcohol :  Eucalyptus  oil. 

2.  Laevorotatory  oil. 

The  oil  showing  an  acid  reaction  becomes 
thick  in  the  air  and  has  a  characteristic 
odor :  Mint  oil. 


86  MANUFACTURE   OF   PERFUMERY. 

The  oil  shows  a  neutral  reaction  and  has 

a  camphor-like  odor :  Thyme  oil. 
IV.  The  oil  does  not  dissolve  iodine,  does  not  heat 
with  sulphuric  acid,  and  does  not  react  upon  nitric  acid. 
The  odor  is  empyreumatic  :  Petroleum. 

B.   The  oil  is  specifically  heavier  than  water. 

1.  The  oil  shows  an  acid  reaction. 

It  is  soluble  in  30  parts  of  water,  boils  at  356° 
F.,  and  smells  of  bitter  almonds :  Oil  of  bitter 
almonds. 

The  oil  has  an  agreeable,  sweet  odor  and  boils  at 
from  392°  to  431.6°  F. :  Wintergreen  oil. 

2.  The  oil  shows  a  neutral  reaction. 

a.  The  oil  is  laevorotatory. 

It  becomes  blue  by  the  addition  of  sulphuric 
acid  :  Oil  of  cloves. 

b.  The  oil  is  optically  inactive. 

The  thick  oil  gives  with  sulphuric  acid  a  tur- 
bid, black-brown  fluid ;  the  odor  is  agree- 
able :  Cinnamon  oil. 

c.  The  oil  is  dextrorotatory. 

The  thick  oil  has  an  agreeable  odor :  Sassa- 
fras oil. 


VOLATILE   OILS    USED    IS    PERFUMERY.  '87 


CHAPTER  IV. 

« 

THE   VOLATILE    OILS    USED    IN   PERFUMERY. 

THE  volatile  oils,  as  previously  mentioned,  may  be  di- 
vided into  three  groups,  viz :  the  pure  hydrocarbons, 
oxygenated  oils,  and  sulphuretted  oils.  Chemically,  this 
division  is,  however,  of  little  value,  since,  among  bodies 
which  should  be  classed  according  to  it  in  one  of  the 
groups,  combinations  are  found  which  vary  very  much 
in  a  chemical  respect,  and  belong  partially  in  the  groups 
of  alcohols,  indifferent  bodies,  acids,  etc. 

It  is,  therefore,  preferred  not  to  attempt  a  classifica- 
tion of  the  volatile  oils  according  to  their  chemical  com- 
position, but  simply  to  enumerate  them  in  alphabetical 
order. 

Acacia,  oil  of,  commonly  called  oil  of  cassie.  The 
flowers  or  buds  of  the  acacia  Farnesiana  yield  a  some- 
what thickly-fluid,  greenish -yellow  oil  of  a  very  intense 
but  delightful  odor.  The  oil  may  be  obtained  either  by 
extraction  or  absorption.  The  acacia  is  cultivated  in 
special  plantations  along  the  Riviera  di  Genova.  These 
plantations  being  controlled  by  a  few  perfumers,  the  oil 
is  not  allowed  to  reach  the  market,  and  does  not  form  an 
article  of  commerce.  The  green-colored  extrait  $  acacia 
is  a  solution  of  the  oil  in  alcohol. 

Almond  oil  (bitter)  (oleum  amygdalae  amarce)  is  obtained 
by  submitting  bitter  almond  cake  (left  after  the  expres- 


88  MANUFACTURE   OF    PERFUMEEY. 

sion  of  the  fixed  oil  from  bitter  almonds)  to  distillation 
with  water.  The  volatile  oil  does  not  exist  ready 
formed  in  the  bitter  almond,  nor  in  the  almond  cake, 
but  results  from  the  decomposition  of  a  glucoside  called 
"  amygdalin,"  contained  in  the  cake,  under  the  influence 
of  emulsin  and  water,  the  emulsin  acting  as  a  ferment, 
into  benzylic  aldehyde,  glucose  and  prussic  acid.  The 
almond  tree  grows  wild,  but  is  also  cultivated  in  South- 
ern Europe,  Africa,  Barbary,  Palestine  and  Syria.  The 
bitter  almonds  brought  from  Barbary  are  considered  the 
best.  Besides,  in  almonds,  amygdalin  occurs  in  various 
other  plants ;  for  instance,  in  the  leaves  of  the  cherry 
laurel,  the  leaves  and  kernels  of  the  peach,  the  kernels 
of  the  black  cherry  and  other  varieties  of  prunus  and 
amygdalus,  they  all  yielding,  after  maceration  with 
water,  a  distillate  containing  prussic  acid  and  oil  of 
bitter  almonds. 

Instead  of  the  comparatively  expensive  bitter  almonds, 
peach  kernels  freed  from  their  hard  shells  are  extensively 
used  in  the  fabrication  of  oil  of  bitter  almonds.  The  oil 
is  prepared  as  follows  :  The  press  cakes  of  bitter  almonds 
or  peach  kernels  are  ground  and  soaked  about  twenty- 
four  hours  in  twice  their  weight  of  water  to  which  one- 
third  their  weight  of  salt  has  been  added.  The  whole 
is  then  submitted  to  distillation.  The  temperature  of 
the  water  should  not  exceed  113°  to  122°  F.  The 
emulsin  contained  in  the  almonds  possesses  only  within 
certain  limits  of  temperature  the  power  of  decomposing 
amygdalin,  and,  if  heated  to  176°  F.,  becomes  inopera- 
tive. Hence,  if  the  almond  paste  is  quickly  heated  to 
boiling,  the  emulsin  becomes  inoperative  before  all  the 
amygdalin  is  decomposed,  and  a  portion  of  it  being  con- 


VOLATILE   OILS   USED   IN    PERFUMERY.  89 

sequently  lost,  the  yield  is  insufficient.  The  distillation 
of  the  almond  paste  is  effected  in  a  current  of  steam. 

A  portion  of  the  prussic  acid  formed  by  the  decom- 
position of  the  amygdalin  adheres  tenaciously  to  the  oil. 
This  content  of  prussic  acid  makes  the  oil  of  bitter 
almonds  exceedingly  poisonous,  while  in  itself  it  is  non- 
poisonous.  It  can  be  freed  from  the  prussic  acid  by 
shaking  with  ferrous  sulphate  (blue  vitriol)  solution. 
By  then  distilling  over  burnt  lime  the  originally  yellow 
or  yellowish  oil  is  obtained  colorless.  It  is  then  thinly 
fluid,  of  a  peculiar  agreeable  odor  and  strongly  nutty 
taste.  Its  specific  gravity  is  1.043  at  59°  F.,  but  varies 
a  little  with  age.  It  boils  at  356°  F.,  and  dissolves  in 
13  parts  of  water,  but  more  readily  in  alcohol  and  ether. 
In  the  air  it  is  rapidly  converted  into  benzoic  acid  by 
the  absorption  of  oxygen.  It  has  to  be  carefully  pro- 
tected from  air  and  light  and  kept  in  well-closed  bottles 
in  a  dark  place.  The  crude  oil,  containing  from  2  to  5 
per  cent,  prussic  acid,  has  generally  a  yellowish  color. 

Oil  of  bitter  almonds  may  be  prepared  artificially  in 
many  ways.  By  allowing  chlorine  to  flow  into  boiling 
toluene,  the  latter  is  converted  into  benzyl  chloride  : — 

C6H.(CH3)     +C12=      C.H/CH,  01)      +  HCl 

toluene  chlorine  benzyl  chloride      hydrogen  chloride 

By  withdrawing  the  chlorine  and  one  atom  hydrogen 
from  the  benzyl  chloride  and  introducing  for  it  one 
atom  oxygen,  the  benzyl  chloride  is  converted  into  ben- 
zaldehyde.  This  conversion  is  readily  effected  by  con- 
tinuously boiling,  best  with  the  introduction  of  carbonic 
acid,  1  part  of  benzyl  chloride  with  1J  parts  of  lead 
nitrate  and  10  parts  of  water,  and  finally  distilling  the 


90  MANUFACTURE   OF   PERFUMERY. 

benzaldehyde  off  by  steam.     The  decomposition  takes 
place  according  to  the  following  equation  : — 

2[C6H5(CH2C1)]  +  Pb(N03)2  = 
2[C6H5(CHO)]  +  PbCl2  +  NA  4-  H,O. 

The  crude  benzaldehyde  thus  obtained  is  agitated 
with  warm  solution  of  acid  sodium  sulphite,  the  so- 
lution formed  thereby  is  separated  from  undissolved 
oily  particles  and  cooled,  whereby  a  combination  of 
benzaldehyde  with  acid  sodium  sulphate  crystallizes 
out.  This  combination  is  separated  from  the  re- 
maining fluid,  decomposed  by  acid  and  submitted 
to  distillation,  whereby  benzaldehyde  passes  over. 
Large  quantities  of  benzaldehyde  are  at  present  pre- 
pared according  to  this  method.  The  identity  of 
benzaldehyde  with  oil  of  bitter  almonds  has  been 
established  by  Lippmann  and  Hawliczek. 

Genuine  oil  of  almonds  is  much  adulterated,  chiefly 
with  alcohol,  nitrobenzole,  and  various  cheaper  oils. 
An  addition  of  3  to  5  per  cent,  of  alcohol  is  frequently 
made  by  Italian  dealers  in  order  to  conceal  a  content  of 
water,  which  at  a  low  temperature  is  apt  to  render  the 
oil  turbid.  To  detect  the  presence  of  alcohol,  moder- 
ately heat  a  sample  of  the  oil  in  a  distilling  apparatus 
and  compound  the  drops,  first  passing  over  with  sodium 
carbonate  solution  and  then  with  potassium  iodide  sol^- 
tion.  In  the  presence  of  alcohol  a  yellowish  crystalline 
precipitate  of  iodoform  is  formed. 

An  addition  of  synthetically  composed  oil  might  seem 
of  no  importance,  since  the  natural  oil  does  not  differ 
from  it.  However,  for  very  fine  perfumery  the  natural 
oil  cannot  be  replaced  by  the  artificial,  it  having  been 


VOLATILE   OILS    USED    IN    PERFUMERY.  91 

thus  far  impossible  to  obtain  the  latter  absolutely  chemi- 
cally pure.  It  always  contains  small  quantities  of 
undecomposed  chlorine  combinations  which  injure  the 
taste  and  odor.  To  detect  such  oil  in  the  natural  oil, 
bring  a  few  drops  upon  a  tuft  of  cotton  and  ignite  it. 
Over  the  burning  flame  invert  a  beaker  moistened  inside 
with  water.  On  the  moist  sides  of  the  beaker  the  soot 
and  hydrochloric  acid  formed  by  the  combustion  of  the 
chlorine  combination  are  precipitated.  When  the  flame 
is  extinguished,  the  beaker  is  rinsed  out  with  water,  the 
fluid  filtered  and  tested  for  chlorine  with  nitrate  of 
silver.  An  addition  of  10  per  cent,  artificial  oil  can  in 
this  manner  be  accurately  determined. 

If  genuine  oil  of  bitter  almonds  containing  prussic  acid, 
be  heated  with  an  excess  of  alcoholic  potash  lye,  and  the 
excess  of  the  latter  be  neutralized  with  hydrochloric  acid, 
benzoin  amounting  to  40  to  50  per  cent,  of  the  weight  of 
oil  of  bitter  almonds  is,  according  to  A.  Kremel,  separated. 
By  subjecting  artificial  oil  of  bitter  almonds  to  the  same 
treatment,  no  benzoin  is  separated,  so  that  the  genuine 
oil  can  in  this  manner  be  distinguished  from  the  artifi- 
cial. Kremel  further  found  that  oil  of  bitter  almonds 
prepared  from  apricot  kernels,  when  treated  in  an  analo- 
gous manner,  yielded  considerably  less  benzoin,  and 
that  cherry-laurel  oil  containing  prussic  acid,  which  has 
been  considered  identical  with  oil  of  bitter  almonds,  sepa- 
rated no  benzoin  whatever.  Should  further  experiments 
prove  the  constancy  of  this  phenomenon,  this  reaction 
would  be  a  convenient  means  of  distinguishing  the  four 
products. 

An  adulteration  with  nitrobenzole  and  other  volatile 
oils  is  recognized  by  mixing  2  drops  of  the  oil  with  100 


92  MANUFACTURE   OF   PERFUMERY. 

drops  of  distilled  water,  and  shaking  vigorously.  Pure 
oil  must  completely  dissolve.  However,  the  test  yields 
accurate  results  only  with  the  use  of  actually  pure  dis- 
tilled water  and  by  accurately  observing  the  above- 
mentioned  proportions.  If  to  5  cubic  centimeters  of  90 
per  cent,  alcohol  and  an  equal  quantity  of  distilled  water 
in  a  test-tube,  10  drops  of  the  oil  be  added,  and,  after 
closing  the  tube  with  the  finger,  mixture  be  effected  by 
gently  turning  the  tube  twice  upside  down,  a  clear  solution 
will  immediately  result  if  the  oil  is  pure.  If,  however, 
it  contains  nitrobenzole,  even  only  1  per  cent.,  the  latter 
separates,  at  first  rendering  the  fluid  turbid,  but  in  the 
course  of  a  minute,  when  gently  agitated,  it  floats  in  the 
form  of  minute  drops  upon  the  fluid,  while,  when  at 
rest,  these  drops  collect  to  larger  ones  on  the  bottom  ot 
the  test-tube.  If  the  oil  becomes  only  turbid,  adultera- 
tion with  other  volatile  oils  is  indicated.  Another  test, 
given  by  Wagner,  is  based  upon  the  difference  in  the 
specific  gravity  of  mixtures  of  oil  of  bitter  almonds  with 
oil  of  mirbane.  The  specific  gravity  of  commercial  oil 
of  bitter  almonds  varies  between  1.040  and  1.043  and 
that  of  oil  of  mirbane  between  1.180  and  1.201. 

5  o.  c.  of  pure  oil  of  bitter  almonds  weigh  5.29  grammes. 
5    "     mixed  with  i  oil  of  mirbane     "      5.39         " 
5    "         "         "      £  "  "  "      5.57         " 

5    "         "         "      f  "  "  "      5.75         " 

5    "     of  pure  "  "  "      5.90         " 

Oil  of  bitter  almonds  is  much  used  in  the  fabrication 
of  perfumery.  In  a  pure  state  its  odor  is  by  no  means 
agreeable,  but  rather  strong  and  stupefying.  When 
strongly  diluted  it  is,  however,  very  pleasant. 

Angelica  oil  is  obtained  by  distillation  with  water 


VOLATILE   OILS   USED   IN   PERFUMERY.  93 

from  the  root  of  Angelica  Archangelica  L.,  natural 
order  Umbettiferae.  The  oil  is  lighter  than  water,  pos- 
sesses the  spicy  odor  of  the  root  and  an  aromatic  pun- 
gent taste.  It  consists  mostly  of  a  terpene  which  turns 
the  plane  of  polarization  to  the  right,  and  boils  at 
320°  F. 

Besides  the  oil  from  the  root,  one  obtained  from  the 
seeds  also  occurs  in  commerce.  It  is,  however,  more 
expensive.  In  a  fresh  state  it  is  amber-yellow,  and  has 
a  specific  gravity  of  0.8549  at  59°  F. ;  older  oil  is 
thickly-fluid,  brown,  and  has  a  specific  gravity  of  0.9086. 
It  contains  a  terpene  which  turns  the  plane  of  polari- 
zation to  the  right,  and  has  a  lemon-like  odor.  It  is 
used  for  fine  perfumery. 

Anise-seed  oil  (oleum  anisi).  The  anise  (Pimpinella 
anisum  L.\  natural  order  Umbelliferae,  contains  volatile 
oil  in  all  parts,  but  chiefly  in  the  seeds.  Dry  anise-seed 
yields  by  distillation  2J  to  3  per  cent,  of  oil,  while  the 
peduncle  and  chaff  contain  at  the  utmost  1  per  cent,  of 
oil,  which  is  said  to  be  richer  in  stearoptene.  The  anise- 
seed  oil  prepared  in  Southern  Russia  has  always  been 
highly  valued,  but  as  it  is  generally  considerably  adul- 
terated, the  Leipsic  manufacturers  of  volatile  oils  prefer 
to  import  the  seed  and  distill  it  themselves. 

Freshly  prepared  anise-seed  oil  is  colorless  or  straw- 
yellow,  has  the  odor  of  anise  and  a  sweetish  taste,  leav- 
ing a  burning  sensation  upon  the  tongue.  It  is  thinly 
fluid  at  68°  F.,  but  commences  to  congeal  at  a  somewhat 
lower  temperature,  and  the  sooner  the  more  stearoptene 
it  contains.  Good  oil  should  become  solid  at  from  57.2° 
to  60.8°  F.  It  has  a  specific  gravity  of  0.980  to  0.995 
at  59°  F.  The  specific  gravity  varies  with  the  content 


94  MANUFACTURE   OF   PERFUMERY. 

of  stearoptene;  the  greater  the  latter  the  higher  the 
specific  gravity.  Good  anise-seed  oil  contains  5  to  10  per 
cent,  of  terpene  and  90  to  95  per  cent,  of  a  stearoptene, 
called  anethol,  C10H12O,  on  which  the  value  of  the  oil 
depends.  The  anethol  can  be  separated  from  the  oil  by 
cooling  to  32°  F.,  and  forms  colorless  crystals.  It  has 
an  agreeable  odor  and  intensely  sweet  taste,  is  sparingly 
soluble  in  water,  but  readily  in  alcohol,  ether,  and  other 
solvents  of  volatile  oils.  Good  anethol  has  a  specific 
gravity  of  0.986,  and  melts  at  69°  to  70°  F.  By  fre- 
quent contact  with  the  air  a  small  portion  of  the  anethol 
is  oxidized,  very  likely  to  anisaldehyde.  By  this  pro- 
cess the  specific  gravity  is  raised  and  the  melting  point 
lowered. 

Anise-seed  oil  is  soluble  in  5  parts  of  90  per  cent, 
alcohol,  and  with  3J  times  its  volume  of  petroleum- 
ether  yields  a  clear  mixture.  Its  mixture  with  four 
times  its  weight  of  petroleum-ether  is  turbid,  but  be- 
comes clear  in  ten  minutes,  while  that  with  five  times 
its  volume  of  petroleum -ether  remains  for  a  longer  time 
turbid.  In  a  fluid  state  the  oil,  when  exposed  to  the 
air,  becomes  resinous  and  loses  its  property  to  crystal- 
lize. It  should,  therefore,  be  kept  in  tightly-closed 
bottles  in  a  cool,  shady  place. 

Anise-seed  oil  is  used  in  perfuming  soaps  and  mouth 
waters.  It  should,  however,  be  used  with  prudence, 
since  the  sweetish,  penetrating  odor  of  the  oil  readily 
overcomes  the  other  volatile  oils  in  the  mixture,  and  ren- 
ders them  inoperative. 

Star  anise  oil  very  much  resembles  the  ordinary  anise- 
seed  oil.  It  is  obtained  from  star  anise,  the  fruit  of 
Illicium  anisatum,  a  tree  formerly  supposed  to  be  indige- 


VOLATILE   OILS   USED   IN   PERFUMERY.  95 

nous  to  Cochin  China,  and  cultivated  in  China,  Japan, 
and  the  Phillipine  Islands.  However,  according  to 
Messrs.  Bourgeoin-Meiifre,  a  French  firm  of  Hanoi 
(Tonkin),  the  star  anise  oil  found  in  commerce  is  exclu- 
sively produced  in  the  French  colony  Tonkin  (Province 
Langson),  the  French  government  having  made  over  the 
entire  sale  of  the  oil  to  the  above-mentioned  firm. 

According  to  a  memoir  published  by  Dr.  Blondel,  of 
Paris,  the  star  anise  tree  is  not  indigenous  to  the  Chinese 
provinces  Yunnan,  Quang-si,  and  Fo-Rien,  but  to  the 
province  Langson,  which  has  by  conquest  passed  into 
French  possession.  Hence,  the  producers  of  star  anise 
and  star  anise  oil  are  now  under  French  control  and,  as 
it  seems,  are  obliged  to  sell  all  the  oil  produced  to  the 
above-mentioned  firm.  If  these  statements  should 
prove  correct,  the  Chinese  harbors  Macao  and  Hong 
Kong,  from  which  the  greater  portion  of  star  anise  oil 
was  formerly  exported,  will  lose  their  importance  in  this 
respect  and  the  product  find  its  way  direct  from  Hanoi 
via  Hayphong  to  Marseilles.  The  first  shipment  from 
Bourgeoin-Meiffre  arrived  in  Europe  in  December,  1890. 
According  to  Messrs.  Schimmel  &  Co.'s  report,  the  pro- 
duct is  put  up  and  packed  exactly  like  that  formerly 
shipped  from  Hong  Kong,  and  the  oil  of  excellent  quality. 

Star  anise  oil  differs  from  the  ordinary  oil  in  con- 
taining a  much  smaller  quantity  of  anethol,  and  hence 
congealing  only  at  a  temperature  of  from  41°  to  50°  F. 
Besides  the  odor  of  the  terpene  contained  in  star  anise 
oil  differs  from  that  of  the  ordinary  oil.  Admixtures  ot 
star  anise  oil  can,  therefore,  be  generally  recognized  by 
the  odor.  Other  methods  recommended  for  its  detec- 
tion are  unreliable. 


96  MANUFACTURE   OF    PERFUMERY. 

Balm  oil. — The  leaves  of  this  plant,  Melissa  offieinalis, 
yield  by  distillation  a  volatile  oil  sometimes  called  oil  of 
melissa.  It  is  colorless  or  yellowish,  of  a  pleasant  odor, 
has  a  specific  gravity  of  0.85  to  0.92,  shows  a  slightly 
acid  reaction  and  dissolves  in  2  to  3  parts  of  alcohol. 
It  must  not  be  confounded  with  the  so-called  East 
India  oil  of  melissa  or  citronella  oil  from  Andropogon 
Nardus  L.  Balm  oil  is  occasionally  used  in  the  prepa- 
ration of  eau  de  Cologne. 

Basil  oil  is  distilled  in  Southern  France  from  the  fresh 
leaves  of  Ocymum  basilicum  L.,  natural  order  Labiatce. 
The  oil  shows  the  peculiar  odor  of  the  herb  and  crys- 
tallizes a  few  degrees  above  32°  F.  In  perfumery  it  is 
used  as  an  addition  to  violet  and  other  preparations. 
The  French  also  prepare  a  pommade  basilique,  which 
serves  as  a  cheap  substitute  for  violet  pomade. 

Bayberry  oil,  or  oil  of  bay  leaves,  is  extracted  by  dis- 
tillation from  the  leaves  of  Myrcia.  acris  or  the  bay- 
berry  tree.  Many  varieties  of  the  tree  exist  throughout 
the  West  Indies,  which  are  scarcely  to  be  distinguished 
botanically,  but  have  quite  a  different  odor  from  that  of 
the  genuine  tree.  Great  care  must,  therefore,  be  taken 
in  the  collection  of  the  leaves  which  are  to  be  used,  as 
the  admixture  of  a  small  quantity  of  the  other  leaves 
may  entirely  spoil  the  product  of  distillation.  Two  oils 
are  obtained,  a  light  oil  of  specific  gravity  of  0.870  to 
0.990,  and  a  heavy  oil  with  specific  gravity  1.023  to 
1.037.  When  first  distilled  the  oil  is  colorless,  but  by 
exposure  to  the  air  quickly  acquires  a  yellowish  tint  and, 
if  the  exposure  be  continued,  becomes  quite  dark  in  color. 
The  odor  of  the  freshly-distilled  oil  is  rank,  but  in  the 
course  of  from  three  to  six  months  it  becomes  mellow, 


VOLATILE    OILS    USED    IN   PERFUMERY.  97 

and  ripens  into  the  agreeable  fragrance  so  much  liked  in 
the  best  specimens  of  bay-rum.  The  oil  is  soluble  in 
all  proportions  in  95  per  cent,  alcohol,  also  in  ether  and 
petroleum  benzine.  Its  chief  use  is  for  the  preparation 
of  bay-rum. 

Bergamot  oil  is  obtained  from  the  rinds  of  the  fruit  of 
citrus  bergamia,  a  tree  belonging  to  the  natural  order 
Aurantiacece.  The  rind  is  grated  and  the  oil  running 
off  separated  from  the  aqueous  fluid  and  cellular  sub- 
stance by  means  of  a  separating  funnel,  or  the  grated 
mass  is  distilled  in  a  current  of  carbonic  acid.  The  oil 
is  very  fluid  and  pale  yellow,  but  poorer  qualities  are  fre- 
'  quently  greenish  or  brownish.  When  distilled  with 
water  it  becomes  perfectly  colorless,  but  is  less  durable. 
Its  odor  is  very  pleasant,  somewhat  like  a  mixture  of 
orange  and  lemon  oils.  Its  specific  gravity  is  0.87  to 
0.89.  By  standing  for  some  time,  the  oil  separates 
white  crystalline  scales  (stearoptene),  which  melt  at  223° 
F.  The  oil  becomes  solid  a  few  degrees  below  the  freez- 
ing point.  The  Messina  oil  of  bergamot  is  considered 
the  best.  From  other  volatile  oils  of  the  orange  family, 
bergamot  oil  differs  in  dissolving  readily  in  caustic  pot- 
ash, forming  a  clear  solution.  It  has,  however,  the  same 
property  as  other  oils  of  a  similar  origin,  of  igniting 
with  iodine  and  not  dissolving  santalin,  the  red  resinous 
coloring  matter  of  santal-wood. 

Bergamot  oil  may  be  tested  as  to  its  purity  by  mixing 
it  with  alcohol.  It  becomes  pale  gray-yellow,  forms  a 
sediment  which  adheres  firmly  to  the  vessel  and,  on 
shaking,  floats  about  in  the  form  of  flakes.  After  two 
days  the  sediment  is  inconsiderable  and  difficult  to 
divide  into  flakes  in  the  clear  yellow  fluid  by  shaking. 
7 


98  MANUFACTURE    OF   PERFUMERY. 

The  oil  is  frequently  adulterated  with  alcohol.  To 
detect  such  adulteration,  Righini  recommends  the  follow- 
ing method  :  Mix  15  parts  of  the  oil  with  a  like  quan- 
tity of  pure  olive  oil  or  oil  of  sweet  almonds.  If 
alcohol  is  present,  it  immediately  separates,  like  water, 
from  the  fat  oil ;  if  no  separation  takes  place  the  oil  is 
not  adulterated  with  alcohol.  The  tannin  test  also  gives 
reliable  results.  In  storing  oil  of  bergamot  great  care 
must  be  exercised  to  exclude  air  and  light,  as  it  is  one 
of  the  most  changeable  oils  and  soon  acquires  an  odor 
resembling  that  of  turpentine. 

Large  quantities  of  oil  of  bergamot  are  used  in  per- 
fumery.    It  forms,  so  to  say,  the  basis  for  most  of  the ' 
finer  products.     In  Cologne  water  it  forms  the  principal 
constituent  in  the  mixture  of  volatile  oils. 

Cqjeput  oil  (oleum  cajeputi). — This  oil  is  obtained  by 
distillation  from  the  leaves  of  several  species  of  Melaleucce, 
natural  order  Caryophyllacece,  indigenous  to  the  East 
Indies,  Banda,  and  Malabar.  The  ordinary  oil  has  a 
greenish  color  and  possesses  a  strong  odor  of  camphor 
and  a  pungent  taste.  It  is  chiefly  imported  by  way  of 
Amsterdam,  where  it  is  partially  discolored  by  rectifi- 
cation, so  that  two  kinds,  the  white  and  green  cajeput 
oil,  are  brought  into  commerce.  The  color  of  the  latter 
is  generally  supposed  to  be  due  to  a  resinous  substance 
containing  chlorophyl,  though  others  assert  that  it  origi- 
nates from  the  copper  of  the  distilling  apparatus  and  the 
copper  flasks  in  which  it  is  dispatched.  The  specific 
gravity  of  the  oil  varies  between  0.910  and  0.940, 
though  specifically  lighter  and  heavier  oils  are  said  to 
occur. 

It  is  claimed  that  an  artificial  cajeput  oil  is  often  pre- 


VOLATILE   OILS   USED   IN   PERFUMERY.  99 

pared  from  camphor  and  rosemary  oil,  the  green  color 
being  obtained  by  distillation  with  milfoil.  The 
presence  of  camphor  may  be  readily  determined  by 
thoroughly  triturating  a  few  drops  of  the  oil  with  sugar 
and  then  dissolving  in  water,  whereby  the  particles  of 
camphor  separate  in  the  form  of  white  flakes  upon  the 
surface. 

Cajeput  oil  is  frequently  adulterated  with  oil  of  tur- 
pentine and  rosemary  oil.  Such  adulteration  is  recog- 
nized by  pure  cajeput  oil  dissolving  clear  in  equal  parts 
of  90  per  cent,  alcohol,  which  is  not  the  case  with  the 
other  two  oils. 

Camomile  or  chamomile  oil  (oleum  anthemidis). — Two 
varieties  of  oil  of  camomile  are  found  in  commerce,  one 
green  and  the  other  blue.  The  first  is  derived  from  the 
flowers  of  the  genuine  or  Roman  camomile  (Anthemis 
nobilis)  and  the  blue  from  the  common  variety  (^Matri- 
caria  chamomila).  The  last  oil  is  the  one  chiefly  used 
in  the  manufacture  of  perfumery  and  in  medicine. 

Bluv  camomile  oil  is  generally  obtained  by  distillation. 
In  distilling,  metal  Florentine  flasks  should  be  used,  as 
the  oil  adheres  tenaciously  to  glass  vessels  and  the  distil- 
late has  to  be  treated  with  ether.  The  pure  oil  has  a 
beautiful  blue  color,  and  on  heating  forms  blue  vapors. 
It  has  a  penetrating  odor  which  only  by  strong  dilution 
becomes  similar  to  that  of  camomile.  By  storing  in 
the  light  and  the  simultaneous  presence  of  air,  the  oil 
turns  green ;  later  on,  brown,  and  is  finally  converted 
into  a  thickly-fluid,  brownish  mass. 

Green  camomile  oil  from  the  genuine  or  Roman  camo- 
mile possesses  an  agreeable  odor  of  fresh  lemons ;  it  is 
more  seldom  used  than  the  other. 


100  MANUFACTURE   OF   PERFUMERY. 

On  account  of  the  slight  yield  obtained  from  the 
flowers,  camomile  oil  is  rather  expensive. 

Caraway  oil  (oleum  carui)  is  obtained  by  distillation 
from  the  seeds  of  the  well-known  aromatic  plant  Carum 
carui,  or  the  caraway,  natural  order  Umbelliferce.  In  a 
fresh,  purified  state  the  oil  is  colorless,  very  thinly-fluid 
and  possesses  a  pungent  taste.  The  oil  prepared  from 
cleansed  Dutch  seed  is  best  liked,  while  that  distilled 
from  Norwegian  or  Tyrolese  seed  is  not  much  in  demand, 
its  taste  and  odor  not  being  so  pure  on  account  of  the 
many  impurities  mixed  with  these  kinds  of  seed. 

Caraway  oil  consists  mainly  of  a  terpene,  C,0H16, 
called  carvene,  specific  gravity  0.870,  and  of  carvol,  spe- 
cific gravity  0.960.  The  richer  the  oil  in  carvol,  the 
higher  its  specific  gravity.  Good  caraway  oil  should 
have  a  specific  gravity  of  0.900  to  0.910.  The  carvol 
being  the  actual  bearer  of  the  aroma,  the  value  of  the 
oil  exclusively  depends  on  the  content  of  it.  In  the 
better  varieties  of  oil,  the  content  of  carvol  amounts  to 
from  45  to  50  per  cent.,  while  poorer  qualities  generally 
contain  only  from  40  to  42  per  cent.  The  carvol  and 
carvene  are  now  frequently  separated  by  fractional  dis- 
tillation. The  carvol,  which  has  three  times  as  strong 
an  odor  and  taste  as  the  carvene,  dissolves  with  much 
greater  facility  in  alcohol.  The  carvene  being  offered 
at  very  low  prices  might  be  suitable  for  perfuming  cheap 
soaps. 

Caraway  oil  obtained  by  distillation  from  the  plant 
has  a  less  agreeable  odor  than  that  from  the  seed,  and 
possesses  an  acrid  resinous  taste. 

The  purity  of  caraway  oil  is  recognized  by  its  dissolv- 
ing clear  in  equal  parts  of  90  per  cent,  alcohol.  If  such 


VOLATILE   OILS    USED    IN   PERFUMERY.  101 

is  not  the  case,  the  oil  contains  either  an  admixture  of 
oil  of  turpentine  or  does  not  possess  the  full  normal 
content  of  carvol.  Pure  caraway  oil  does  not  detonate 
with  iodine,  which  is  the  case  with  oil  containing  oil  of 
turpentine. 

Caraway  oil  is  chiefly  used  for  perfuming  soap ;  for 
handkerchief  perfumes  it  is  not  suitable. 

Cedar  oil  (oleum  cedri)  is  obtained  by  distillation  from 
the  shavings  of  the  wood  of  the  American  or  Virginia 
cedar  (Juniperus  virginiana).  For  the  distillation  of  oil 
the  waste  falling  off  in  the  manufacture  of  lead-pencils 
is  almost  exclusively  used.  It  yields  about  2  to  3  per 
cent,  of  oil.  The  oil  is  thinly-fluid,  of  specific  gravity 
0.9622,  of  a  greenish  color,  and  an  agreeable  but  not 
very  penetrating  odor.  It  is  a  mixture  of  a  terpene, 
boiling  at  about  540°  F.,  and  of  a  hydrocarbon.  The 
latter,  which  is  called  cidrin,  forms  the  fluid  portion  of 
the  oil.  It  has  a  specific  gravity  of  0.984,  and  boils 
at  about  459°  F. 

Cedar  oil  is  extensively  used  in  the  manufacture  of 
toilet  soap,  it  serving  as  the  basis  for  other  perfumes. 
Care  must,  however,  be  taken  that  its  odor  does  not 
preponderate,  as  in  such  case  it  readily  produces  an  un- 
pleasant effect.  The  oil  being  cheap,  adulteration  is 
scarcely  to  be  feared. 

A  volatile  oil  is  also  obtained  by  distillation  from  the 
leaves  of  the  Juniperus  virginiana.  In  odor  it  resembles 
savin  oil,  and  is  unfit  for  perfuming  purposes. 

Cherry-laurel  oil  (oleum  laurocerasi)  is  the  volatile  oil, 
which  contains  prussic  acid,  obtained  from  the  leaves  of 
the  cherry-laurel  (Prunus  laurocemsus,  L.).  Like  bitter 
almonds,  the  leaves  contain  some  amygdalin.  Hence 


102  MANUFACTURE   OF   PERFUMERY. 

they  are  macerated  with  water  and  allowed  to  stand  in 
a  warm  place  for  24  hours.  By  subsequent  distillation 
a  volatile  oil  is  obtained  which  closely  resembles  oil  of 
bitter  almonds,  but  differs  in  some  respects.  It  is  color- 
less or  yellowish,  rarely  reddish,  and  of  specific  gravity 
1.05  to  1.06.  In  its  behavior  towards  air,  solvents,  and 
reagents,  it  does  not  essentially  differ  from  oil  of  bitter 
almonds.* 

To  detect  oil  of  mirbane  in  cherry-laurel  oil,  Enrico 
Pega  adds  some  alcohol  to  the  oil  to  be  tested  and  then 
mixes  it  with  some  alcoholic  potash  lye  and  a  few  drops 
of  ferric  chloride  solution.  After  standing  for  a  few 
hours  the  mixture  is  shaken  and  distilled.  A  small 
portion  of  the  oil  distilling  over  is  freed  from  water, 
poured  upon  a  few  small  pieces  of  pure  caustic  potash 
in  a  test-tube,  and  heated  over  a  lamp.  If  the  sample 
is  pure  it  remains  colorless ;  in  the  presence  of  oil  of 
mirbane  it  acquires  a  dark  coloration  in  consequence  of 
the  formation  of  nitrobenzide  and  aniline,  a  few  drops 
of  calcium  chloride  solution  brought  into  the  mixture 
producing,  for  this  reason,  a  violet  coloration. 

Cherry  laurel  oil  is  but  seldom  used  for  perfuming 
purposes. 

Cinnamon  oils. — There  are  four  different  kinds  of  this 
oil,  viz.,  Ceylon  cinnamon  oil,  cassia  oil,  cinnamon  root 
oil,  and  oil  of  cinnamon  leaves.  Though  the  first  two 
are  very  much  alike,  the  Ceylon  oil  is  considered  the 
best. 

Ceylon  cinnamon  oil  (oleum  cinnamoni  ceylonici). — 
Formerly  this  oil  was  exclusively  distilled  from  chips 

*  Compare  Kremel's  observations,  p.  91. 


VOLATILE   OILS    USED   IN   PEEFUMERY.  103 


and  waste  of  the  genuine  cinnamon  bark  of  the 
monum  ceylonicum,  Nees,  and  came  into  commerce  from 
Ceylon.  However,  the  fabrication  of  the  oil  from  cin- 
namon waste  or  chips  is  now  extensively  carried  on  in 
Germany,  and  this  oil,  being  prepared  with  the  assist- 
ance of  more  perfect  apparatus,  has  almost  entirely  sup- 
planted that  exported  from  Ceylon. 

When  fresh,  the  Ceylon  oil  is  colorless,  but  when 
stored  for  some  time  it  becomes  first  golden  yellow  and 
later  on  brownish.  It  is  thickly-fluid  and  heavier  than 
water,  its  specific  gravity  being  1.060  to  1.090.  It  has 
an  agreeable,  aromatic  odor  and  a  biting  but  pure,  sweet 
taste.  Its  principal  constituent  is  cinnamaldehyde 
(C9H8O),  and  it  contains,  besides,  4  to  8  per  cent,  of 
eugenol.  The  presence  of  the  latter  in  cinnamon  oil 
may  be  established  by  shaking  with  15  per  cent,  soda- 
solution,  whereby  the  eugenol  is  dissolved,  and  decom- 
posing the  aqueous  solution  with  hydrochloric  acid. 
The  eugenol  separated  thereby  gives  in  alcoholic  solu- 
tion, when  compounded  with  a  trace  of  ferric  chloride, 
a  beautiful  blue  color. 

Cassia  oil  (oleum  cassice).  —  In  China  and  Cochin  China 
this  oil  is  obtained  by  distillation  from  the  bark,  unripe 
fruits,  buds,  and  other  waste  of  the  Cinnamonum  cassia 
or  Cinnamonum  aromativum,  Nees,  a  tree  indigenous  to 
those  countries.  It  has  a  pale  yellow  color,  which  in 
time  becomes  brown.  It  is  thickly-fluid,  of  specific 
gravity  1.05  to  1.07,  and  possesses  a  sweet  taste  with 
an  acrid  after-taste.  Like  cinnamon  oil,  it  consists 
chiefly  of  cinnamaldehyde,  but  contains  no  eugenol,  and 
hence  can  be  readily  distinguished  from  Ceylon  oil  by 


104        MANUFACTURE  OF  PERFUMERY. 

the  above-mentioned  reaction.  One  part  of  pure  cassia 
oil  dissolves  in  two  parts  of  80  per  cent,  alcohol. 

Cinnamon  root  oil  and  oil  of  cinnamon  leaves. — Neither 
of  these  oils  contains  cinuamaldehyde,  but  abundant 
quantities  of  eugenol,  the  root  oil  as  much  as  50  to  70 
per  cent.  The  root  oil  is  quite  limpid  and  has  an 
agreeable  odor  of  cinnamon  and  cloves.  The  leaf  oil 
is  thickly-fluid,  of  the  consistency  of  castor  oil. 

The  Ceylon  oil  is  frequently  adulterated  with  cassia 
oil.  Such  adulteration  is  very  difficult  to  detect,  and 
can  only  be  recognized  by  experts  by  the  odor  and  taste. 

The  quality  of  cassia  oil  is  recognized  by  the  taste  and 
odor,  especially  on  heating,  and  the  high  specific  gravity, 
in  consequence  of  which  the  oil  sinks  in  water.  Accord- 
ing to  Hager,  cassia  oil  is  frequently  adulterated  with 
oil  of  cloves.  This  is,  however,  scarcely  probable,  the 
price  of  oil  of  cloves  being,  on  an  average,  higher  than 
that  of  cassia  oil.  The  latter,  however,  is  frequently 
adulterated  with  cheaper  thickly-fluid  volatile  oils,  es- 
pecially with  cedar  oil.  In  this  case  the  oil  does  not 
dissolve  in  the  above-mentioned  proportion  in  alcohol. 

The  value  of  cassia  oil  is  dependent  on  its  contents 
of  cinnamaldehyde.  Hence,  the  establishment  of  its 
actual  value  requires  a  quantitative  determination  of  its 
contents  of  cinnamaldehyde,  which  unfortunately  pre- 
sents great  difficulties.  For  this  purpose  Schimmel  & 
Co.  proceed  indirectly  as  follows  :  75  grammes  of  cassia 
oil  in  a  capacious  boiling  flask  are  mixed  with  300 
grammes  of  a  boiling-hot  30  per  cent,  solution  of  acid 
sodium  sulphite,  whereby  cinnamaldehyde-sodium  sul- 
phite is  immediately  separated.  The  whole  is  then 
vigorously  agitated  and  alloNved  to  rest  for  a  short  time. 


VOLATILE   OILS   USED    IN    PERFUMERY.  105 

(With  oils  rich  in  aldehyde  considerable  heating  gener- 
ally takes  place,  which  must  eventually  be  moderated 
by  the  addition  of  cold  water.)  Next  add  about  200 
grammes  of  hot  water  and  heat  the  whole,  with  frequent 
shaking,  in  the  water-bath  until  the  combination  of  the 
aldehyde  with  the  acid-sodium  sulphite  is  completely 
dissolved,  and  the  non-aldehydes  in  the  form  of  an  oily 
layer  float  upon  the  solution  of  the  aldehyde  salt.  Now 
allow  the  whole  to  cool,  then  shake  twice  with  ether ; 
first,  with  about  200  cubic  centimeters,  and  then  with 
100 ;  combine  the  ethereal  extracts  of  the  non-aldehydes 
separated  by  means  of  a  separatory  funnel,  and  filter 
them  into  a  capacious,  previously-weighed  beaker  pro- 
vided with  a  platinum  wire,  the  lower  end  of  which  is 
bent  in  the  form  of  a  spiral.  Now  evaporate  the  ether 
as  much  as  possible,  by  placing  the  beaker  in  hot  water. 
When  by  swinging  the  beaker  the  remaining  fluid  no 
longer  foams  up,  allow  to  cool  off  and  weigh.  Now 
return  the  beaker-glass  to  the  water-bath  for  ten  minutes, 
weigh  again  after  cooling,  and  repeat  the  operation 
until  the  difference  between  two  weighings  does  not 
amount  to  more  than  0.3  gramme  at  the  utmost.  The 
weighing  previous  to  the  last  is  taken  as  the  correct  one.* 
The  weight  of  the  non-aldehydes  thus  obtained  is 
deducted  from  the  cassia  oil  used,  the  difference  giving 
the  content  of  cinnamaldehyde  in  the  latter. 

*  The  manner  of  expelling  the  ether  is  of  great  influence  upon 
the  accuracy  of  the  result.  Though  the  non-aldehydes  volatilize 
with  difficulty,  they  are  volatile,  and  hence  the  ether  must  be 
quickly  expelled,  and  the  beaker  not  allowed  to  stand  longer  upon 
the  water-bath  than  necessary  for  the  evaporation  of  the  ether. 


106  MANUFACTURE   OF   PERFUMERY. 

For  example : — 

Used  79.71  grammes  of  oil. 

First  weighing  of  the  beaker  after  evaporating  the  ether  147.55  grammes 

Second       "  "  "          "  "  "  146.84 

Third         "  "  "          "  "  "  146.58         " 

Tare  of  the  beaker    ....  128.34         " 
Hence  non-aldehydes  in  the  oil         .        .    146.84  grammes. 

.    128.34 


=    18.50  grammes. 
Calculated  to  per  cent.,  23.1  per  cent. 
100  —  23.1  =  76.9  per  cent,  cinnamaldehyde. 

By  accurately  following  the  directions  given,  the  dif- 
ference between  two  controlling  determinations  will  be 
only  a  few  tenths  per  cent.,  seldom  as  much  as  1  per 
cent.  For  practical  purposes,  for  which  alone  this 
method  is  intended,  this  is  more  than  sufficient. 

According  to  the  reports  of  Schimmel  &  Co.,  all  the 
cassia  oil  brought  into  commerce  from  China  was  for  a 
considerable  time  adulterated  with  resin  and  petroleum, 
they  haying  found  as  much  as  30  per  cent,  of  resin  in 
the  oil.  Such  adulteration  can  be  established  by  the 
determination  of  the  specific  gravity  and  distilling  the 
oil.  Good  cassia  oil  should  show  a  specific  gravity  of 
1.05  to  1.07  at  59°  F.,  and  by  distillation  90  per  cent, 
of  pure  cassia  oil  must  pass  over.  The  residue  should 
not  solidify  after  cooling  and  acquire  the  character  of  a 
brittle  resin  ;  it  must  remain  at  least  thickly-fluid,  and 
under  no  conditions  amount  to  more  than  10  per  cent. 

Citron  oil  (oleum  citri),  from  the  peel  of  the  fruit  of 
Citrus  medica  or  the  citron  tree.  The  oil  is  prepared  in 
a  similar  manner  to  that  of  oil  of  bergamot,  either  by 
expression  or  distillation,  the  latter  process  yielding  more 
and  purer  oil. 

Rectified  citron  oil  is  colorless,  of  an  agreeable  pene- 


VOLATILE   OILS   USED   IN   PERFUMERY.  107 

trating  odor  and  acrid  taste,  and  very  sensitive  to  light 
and  air.  By  exposure  to  light  it  turns  yellow,  and  if  air 
be  admitted  at  the  same  time,  it  is  first  converted  into 
a  fluid  which,  on  account  of  its  content  of  ozone,  pos- 
sesses strong  bleaching  powers.  The  oil  at  the  same 
time  acquires  a  disagreeable  odor,  resembling  that  of 
oil  of  turpentine,  and  is  finally  converted  into  a  resinous 
mass. 

Citron  oil  is  frequently  adulterated  with  oil  of  orange 
and  sometimes  with  oil  of  bergamot.  These  adultera- 
tions are  readily  detected  by  an  experienced  person  by 
the  odor,  this  being  in  fact  the  best  guide.  The  spe- 
cific gravity  of  citron  oil  is  0.850  at  59°  F. ;  it  boils  at 
from  332.6°  to  343.4°  F.  and  congeals  at  4°  F. 

Citronella  oil  (oleum  citronellce)  is  chiefly  distilled  in 
Ceylon  from  the  lemon  grass,  'Andropogon  Nardus,  L. 
It  is  quite  limpid,  of  a  greenish-yellow  to  brown  color, 
and  has  an  odor  resembling  that  of  genuine  citron  oil. 
Its  specific  gravity  is  0.896  at  59°  F.,  and  it  boils  at 
from  392°  to  410°  F.  Of  the  various  oils  reaching  the 
market  that  with  the  trade-mark  "  Fisher"  is  most 
in  demand,  it  being  distinguished  by  special  purity. 
Edward  Kremers  has  found  in  citronella  oil  an  alde- 
hyde, C7H]4O,  a  terpene,  C10H16,  citronellol,  which  is 
isomeric  with  borneol ;  further,  acetic  acid  and  valerianic 
acid. 

The  Indian  distillers,  it  is  claimed,  adulterate  the 
citrouella  oil  with  petroleum,  an  addition  up  to  25  per 
cent,  being  not  uncommon. 

According  to  experiments  by  Schimmel  &  Co.,  pure 
citronella  oil  must  give  a  clear  solution,  when  1  part 
of  the  oil  is  vigorously  shaken  with  10  parts  of  80  per 


108  MANUFACTURE    OF    PERFUMERY. 

cent,  alcohol.  If,  in  executing  the  test,  the  kind  of  tur- 
bidity is  observed,  and  whether  the  portion  insoluble 
in  alcohol  separates,  after  standing,  upon  the  surface  or 
on  the  bottom  of  the  fluid,  and  further,  if  the  above- 
mentioned  quantity  of  alcohol  is  not  added  at  one  time, 
but  at  first  only  1  or  2  parts  of  it,  a  conclusion  may  be 
drawn  as  to  the  kind  and  quantity  of  the  adulterant. 

Petroleum  causes  a  milky-white  turbidity,  while  in 
the  presence  of  fat  oil  the  mixture  becomes  turbid,  but 
not  actually  milky.  As  a  rule,  fat  oil  deposits,  after 
standing,  on  the  bottom,  while  petroleum  floats  upon 
the  surface  of  the  fluid.  Citronella  oil  adulterated  with 
fat  oil  does  not  dissolve  in  1  to  2  parts  nor  in  10  parts 
of  80  per  cent,  alcohol,  while  oil  adulterated  with  not 
too  large  a  quantity  of  petroleum,  gives  a  clear  solution 
with  1  to  2  parts.  The  determination  of  the  specific 
gravity  may  also  serve  for  the  detection  of  adulterations. 
This  holds  good,  however,  only  for  petroleum,  which 
reduces  the  specific  gravity,  an  addition  of  fat  oil  pro- 
ducing no  deviation  in  this  respect.  The  specific  gravity 
of  the  oil  should  not  be  below  0.895  at  59°  F. 

Citronella  oil  is  much  used  for  perfuming  cheap  hair 
oils  and  toilet  soaps ;  it  is  the  chief  constituent  of  all 
perfumes  for  honey-soaps.  In  the  American  soap  in- 
dustry it  is  extensively  used,  the  yearly  consumption 
being  estimated  at  1J  million  ounces. 

Cloves,  oil  of  (oleum  caryophylli),  is  obtained  by  dis- 
tillation with  steam,  or  by  extraction  from  the  cloves  of 
commerce,  which  are  the  dried  unexpanded  flower  buds 
of  Caryophyllus  aromaticus,  L.,  or  the  clove  tree.  Oil 
of  cloves,  when  fresh,  is  almost  colorless,  but  on  expo- 
sure to  air  acquires  a  brownish  coloration  and  a  thickly 


VOLATILE   OILS   USED   IN   PERFUMERY.  109 

fluid  consistency.  It  has  the  aromatic  taste  and  odor  of 
cloves,  and  a  specific  gravity  of  1.300  to  1.065.  It  fre- 
quently shows  a  slightly  acid  reaction,  boils  at  482°  F., 
and  congeals  at  4°  F.  It  is  readily  soluble  in  alcohol, 
ether,  and  strong  acetic  acid.  It  consists  of  a  terpene 
(CIOH16)  and  eugenol  (C10H12O2),  the  odor  of  the  oil 
being  due  to  the  latter.  The  terpene  has  a  specific 
gravity  of  0.918,  and  in  distilling  passes  over  first  (light 
oil  of  cloves).  The  eugenol,  when  fresh,  is  colorless, 
has  the  odor  and  taste  of  cloves,  a  specific  gravity  of 
1.063  at  65°  F.,  boils  at  487.4°  F.,  is  insoluble  in  water 
and  glycerin,  but  soluble  in  alcohol,  ether  and  glacial 
acetic  acid.  Its  alcoholic  solution  is  colored  magnifi- 
cently blue  by  ferric  chloride.  If  in  an  alkaline  solution 
it  is  oxydized  with  potassium  permanganate,  vanillin 
being  formed. 

An  inferior  quality  of  oil  is  obtained  from  the  stems 
of  the  clove  buds.  It  dissolves  with  greater  difficulty 
than  the  oil  prepared  from  the  buds,  and  has  a  darker 
red-brown  color. 

To  test  the  value  of  oil  of  cloves,  introduce,  according 
to  Stohman,  into  a  graduated  glass  cylinder  10  volumes 
ether,  10  oil  of  cloves,  and  30  of  a  10-per  cent,  soda 
solution.  After  vigorous  shaking,  the  eugenol  dissolves ; 
the  increase  in  volume  of  the  aqueous  fluid  is  then  pro- 
portional to  the  quantity  of  eugenol  present.  For  more 
exact  determinations,  dissolve  a  weighed  quantity  of 
oil,  repeatedly  shake  the  aqueous  fluid  with  ether  to  re- 
move the  terpene,  then  decompose  the  eugenol-sodium 
with  dilute  sulphuric  acid,  dissolve  the  separated  eugenol 
in  ether  and  weigh  after  evaporating  the  ethereal  fluid. 


110  MANUFACTURE   OF    PERFUMERY. 

Good  oil  of  cloves  does  not  contain  less  than  80  per 
cent,  of  eugenol,  and  frequently  90  per  cent,  or  more. 

Oil  of  cloves  is  chiefly  adulterated  with  copaiba  oil 
and  cedar  oil.  Such  adulteration  is  recognized  by  the 
oil  not  forming  a  clear  solution  in  every  proportion  with 
alcohol,  as  is  the  case  with  pure  oil  of  cloves. 

Oil  of  cloves  is  much  used  for  perfuming  purposes. 

Eucalyptus  oil  (oleum  eucalypti)  is  obtained  from  the 
leaves  of  various  trees  of  the  eucalyptus  family.  Ac- 
cording to  Merk  two  kinds  of  oil  must  be  strictly  kept 
apart :  oleum  eucalypti  from  the  leaves  of  eucalyptus 
globulus  and  oleum  eucalypti  australe,  the  former  being 
used  in  medicine,  and  the  latter,  which  is  considerably 
cheaper,  chiefly  for  perfuming  purposes.  However, 
Piesse's  opinion  that  eucalyptus  oil,  as  far  as  its  odor  is 
concerned,  does  not  deserve  to  be  classed  among  per- 
fumes is  undoubtedly  correct.  It  has  an  odor  between 
that  of  oil  of  turpentine  and  cajeput  oil,  and  as  long  as 
perfumery  is  the  art  of  sweet  odors,  such  oil  cannot  be 
designated  a  perfume. 

When  not  rectified,  eucalyptus  oil  is  mostly  yellowish 
or  bluish.  In  a  rectified  state  it  is  colorless,  clear, 
limpid,  lighter  than  water,  of  a  strong  odor,  and  acrid 
taste.  The  oil  from  eucalyptus  globulus  has  a  specific 
gravity  of  0.900  to  0.925,  and  dissolves  in  every  pro- 
portion in  90  per  cent,  alcohol.  It  is  optically  inactive 
or  turns  the  plane  of  polarization  slightly  to  the  right. 
On  standing  with  sodium  it  acquires  a  yellowish  colora- 
tion, and  does  not  detonate  with  iodine.  The  oil  from 
eucalyptus  australe  has  a  specific  gravity  of  0.86  to  0.87, 
and  is  but  sparingly  soluble  in  90  per  cent,  alcohol,  so 
that  even  a  solution  prepared  in  the  proportion  of  1  :  15 


VOLATILE   OILS   USED   IN   PERFUMERY.  Ill 

is  turbid.  It  turns  the  plane  of  polarization  strongly  to 
the  left ;  acquires,  on  standing  with  sodium,  a  red  colora- 
tion, and  detonates  with  iodine. 

Eucalyptus  oil  consists  of  eucalyptol  and  eucalyptene, 
and  perhaps  other  hydrocarbons.  The  content  of  the 
first,  on  which  depends  the  medicinal  value  of  the  oil, 
varies  very  much  in  the  oils  from  the  different  species 
of  eucalyptus,  the  oil  from  some  species,  it  is  said,  con- 
taining no  eucalyptol  whatever. 

Eucalyptol  (C24H20O2)  is  limpid,  colorless,  turns  the 
plane  of  polarization,  has  a  specific  gravity  of  0.905, 
and  boils  at  347°  F.  Its  vapor  mixed  with  air  has  an 
agreeable,  refreshing  taste,  and  its  dilute  solutions  re- 
mind one  of  roses.  Eucalyptene  (C24H18)  has  a  specific 
gravity  of  0.836,  and  boils  at  329°  F. 

Fennel  oil  (oleum  fceniculi)  is  derived  by  distillation 
from  the  fruits  of  Foeniculum  vulgare,  Gaertner.  Large 
quantities  of  it  are  produced  in  Saxony,  and  also 
in  Galicea.  It  is  quite  colorless,  limpid,  of  specific 
gravity  0.940  to  0.970  and,  with  a  full  content  of  stear- 
optene,  possesses  a  nauseous  sweet  taste  and  odor.  It 
contains  60  to  70  per  cent,  of  anethol  and  congeals  at 
from  41°  to  50°  F.  to  a  crystalline  mass.  The  leaves 
of  the  plant  also  contain  a  volatile  oil,  which  is,  how- 
ever, less  valued  than  the  seed-oil. 

Good  fennel  oil  should  dissolve  clear  in  1  to  2  parts 
of  90  per  cent,  alcohol.  Direct  adulterations  of  this 
oil  do  not  occur,  but  the  stearoptene  is  frequently  with- 
drawn by  fractional  distillation  whereby  the  oil  loses 
much  in  value.  Such  oil  freed  from  stearoptene  does 
not  congeal,  has  a  more  bitter  than  sweet  taste  and  does 
not  dissolve  in  the  above-mentioned  proportion  in  alcohol. 


112  MANUFACTURE   OF    PERFUMERY. 

In  perfumery  fennel  oil  is  but  little  used ;  sometimes 
in  connection  with  other  volatile  oils  for  perfuming 
soaps. 

Geranium  oil,  palmaroso  oil,  Turkish  geranium  oil  is 
obtained  from  Andropogon  Pachnodes.  It  is  yellowish, 
limpid,  of  specific  gravity  0.890  at  59°  Fv  possesses  a 
very  agreeable  rose-like  odor  resembling  that  of  ge- 
ranium oils  from  Pelargonium  radula,  Alton,  and  for 
this  reason  is  generally  designated  as  Turkish  geranium 
oil.  The  odor  of  the  oil  is  improved  by  shaking  it  with 
water  containing  lemon  juice,  any  content  of  copper 
being  thereby  removed.  The  washed  oil  is  then  brought 
into  shallow  dishes  and  exposed  for  two  or  three  weeks 
to  the  sun,  whereby  its  odor  becomes  still  more  like  that 
of  rose  oil.  The  oil  thus  prepared  is  much  used  for 
adulterating  rose  oil.  Turkish  geranium  oil  is  also 
much  used  for  the  adulteration  of  genuine  geranium  oil 
and  is  itself  adulterated  with  oil  of  turpentine.  It  is 
extensively  employed  in  perfumery,  especially  for  per- 
fuming hair  oils  and  pomades,  and  in  conjunction  with 
geranium  oils  for  rose  soap. 

East  Indian  geranium  oil  is  obtained,  chiefly  in  the 
Presidency  of  Bombay,  from  Andropogon  Schoenantus, 
L.  It  is  greenish-yellow  to  yellow-brown,  has  a  spe- 
cific gravity  of  0.906  at  59°  F.,  and  consists  mainly  of 
geraniol  (C10H18O).  Its  odor  is  rose-like,  though  modi- 
fied by  a  lemon-like  odor.  It  is  principally  used  for 
perfuming  cheaper  articles. 

French  and  African  geranium  oils  (oleum  geranii)  are 
obtained  by  distillation  with  water  from  the  leaves  of 
various  species  of  pelargonium.  Many  different  kinds 
of  this  oil  are  found  in  commerce.  The  finest  and  most 


VOLATILE   OILS   USED   IN   PERFUMERY.  113 

expensive  are  the  Spanish  and  French  geranium  oils,  so- 
called  rose,  which  are  distinguished  by  their  fine  odor, 
closely  resembling  that  of  rose  oil.  They  are  derived 
from  Pelargonium  radula,  and  are  either  yellowish, 
brownish,  or  pale  green,  the  brownish  oils  being  pre- 
ferred. It  congeals  at  60.8°  F.  and  turns  the  plane  of 
polarization  to  the  right.  Another  good  geranium  oil  is 
the  African,  which  is  chiefly  prepared  in  Algiers  from 
Pelargonium  roseum}  Wildenow,  and  P.  odoratissimum, 
Alton.  It  closely  resembles  the  French  oil,  but  turns 
the  plane  of  polarization  to  the  left. 

French  geranium  oil  is  said  to  be  frequently  adulte- 
rated with  fat  or  copaiba  oil ;  but  geranium  oil  being 
soluble  in  70  per  cent,  alcohol,  such  adulterations  are 
readily  detected.  Add  to  5  cubic  centimeters  of  70  per 
cent,  alcohol  (specific  gravity  0.890)  at  59°  to  62.5°  F., 
10  drops  of  the  oil,  and  shake.  If  a  clear  solution  re- 
sults the  oil  is  very  likely  unadulterated. 

The  so-called  Turkish  geranium  oil  is  frequently 
found  mixed  with  cocoanut  oil.  To  detect  this,  place 
the  oil  in  a  test-tube  in  ice  or  a  cold  mixture  for  several 
hours,  whereby  the  cocoanut  oil  separates  as  a  white 
substance.  Adulterations  of  upward  to  20  per  cent,  are 
said  to  frequently  occur. 

Reliable  tests  to  detect  an  adulteration  of  the  better 
qualities  of  geranium  oil  with  those  of  a  lower  grade 
do  not  exist,  the  odor  being  the  only  guide. 

Jasmine  oil  or  oil  of  jessamine,  from  the  flowers  of 
Jasminium  offitinale,  L.,  and  J.  grandiflorum. — The  oil 
is  exclusively  obtained  by  the  absorption  process,  and 
is  the  most  prized  by  the  perfumer.  It  is,  however,  ex- 
ceedingly rare  on  account  of  the  enormous  cost  of  its 


114  MANUFACTURE   OF    PERFUMERY. 

production.  The  extract  of  jasmine,  the  "  essence  de  jas- 
mine'7 of  the  French  manufactories,  is  a  solution  of  the 
oil,  as  obtained  by  extraction  with  lard  or  beef  suet,  in 
strong  spirit  of  wine.  The  odor  of  jasmine  oil  is  so 
peculiar  that  it  is  without  comparison,  and  as  such 
cannot  be  imitated. 

Juniper  oil  (oleum  juniperi)  is  obtained  by  distillation 
from  the  fruits  of  Juniperus  communis,  L.,  or  juniper. 
The  berries  used  for  the  purpose  should  be  fully  grown 
and  fresh  and  bruised  before  being  placed  in  the  still. 
Unripe  berries  yield  a  smaller  quantity  and  an  oil  of 
somewhat  different  properties  than  ripe  berries.  The 
oil  obtained  by  distillation  with  steam  is  colorless  and 
that  by  ordinary  distillation  yellowish,  the  former  hav- 
ing a  specific  gravity  of  0.840  to  0.860  and  the  latter 
of  0.850  to  0.900.  It  consists  mainly  of  terpenes.  By 
standing,  a  stearoptene  is  separated,  which  crystallizes  in 
feathery  needles  from  hot  spirit  of  wine.  The  odor  and 
taste  of  juniper  oil  remind  one  at  the  same  time  of  juniper 
berries  and  oil  of  turpentine. 

Juniper  oil  has  a  great  tendency  to  thicken ;  it  be- 
comes resinous,  acid  and  thickly  fluid,  formic  acid  being 
formed.  It  should  be  kept  in  well-closed  bottles,  and 
protected  from  light.  It  is  frequently  adulterated  with 
oil  of  turpentine  and  juniper- wood  oil.  It  may  be  tested 
by  its  behavior  towards  alcohol,  as  well  as  by  the  taste. 
A  drop  of  the  oil  rubbed  up  with  sugar,  and  shaken 
with  500  grammes  of  water,  should  not  impart  an  acrid 
taste  to  the  water.  Juniper  oil  gives  a  clear  solution 
with  J  part  absolute  alcohol ;  by  a  larger  quantity  it  is 
rendered  turbid. 


VOLATILE   OILS   USED    IN   PERFUMERY.  115 

Lavender  oil  (oleum  lavandulce.) — Large  quantities  of 
this  oil  are  distilled  in  Southern  France,  in  the  neigh- 
borhood of  Grasse  and  Nimes,  from  the  flowers  of 
lavandula  officinalis,  Chaixj  which  grows  wild  in  that 
region.  It  is  limpid,  colorless,  or  yellowish,  has  a  strong 
odor  and  a  pungent,  aromatic,  somewhat  bitter  taste. 
With  90  per  cent,  alcohol  it  mixes  clear  in  every  pro- 
portion, boils  at  320°  F.,  and  has  a  specific  gravity  of 
0.876  to  0.905.  It  turns  the  plane  of  polarization  to 
the  left. 

The  best  French  lavender  oil,  distilled  from  pure 
flowers  only,  is  brought  into  commerce  under  the  name, 
"  Essence  de  Lavande  Montblanc."  It  is  distinguished 
from  all  other  kinds,  in  the  preparation  of  which  more 
or  less  stems  and  leaves  are  used,  by  its  extremely  agree- 
able odor. 

Lavender  is  also  extensively  cultivated  in  Mitchan 
and  Hitchin,  England,  and  used  for  the  preparation 
of  an  especially  fine  oil,  the  odor  of  which  surpasses 
even  that  of  the  best  French  product.  It  is,  however, 
comparatively  expensive. 

From  the  leaves  and  flowers  of  lavandula  spica  the 
spike  oil  is  obtained  by  distillation.  It  is  colorless,  or 
yellow,  and  in  odor  approaches  rosemary  oil  more  than 
lavender  oil.  Its  boiling  point,  like  that  of  lavender 
oil,  is  at  366.8°  F.,  and  its  specific  gravity  0.96.  Spike 
oil  turns  the  plane  of  polarization  only  slightly  to  the 
left,  the  deviation  scarcely  ever  exceeding  0.8°. 

Lavender  oils  are  very  sensitive  to  light  and  air,  they 
becoming  ozonized  under  their  influence,  and  acquire  an 
odor  like  turpentine.  Hence  they  must  be  kept  in  well- 
closed  vessels  in  a  dark  place. 


116  MANUFACTURE   OF   PERFUMERY. 

Oil  of  lavender  is  frequently  adulterated,  chiefly  with 
alcohol,  fat  oils,  oil  of  turpentine,  and  spike  oil.  To 
test  the  oil,  mix  a  drop  of  it  with  10  cubic  centimeters 
of  warm  water,  and  test  the  odor,  which  should  be  pure 
and  agreeably  lavender-like.  The  taste  of  the  vigorously 
agitated  water  should  be  transiently  bitter  aromatic. 
One  volume  of  the  oil  should  give  a  turbid  mixture 
with  one  volume  of  dilute  alcohol  (specific  gravity 
0.895),  but  a  perfectly  clear  one  with  three  volumes. 
On  shaking  0.5  cubic  centimeter  of  the  oil  with  a  few 
grains  of  rosaniline  it  remains  uncolored,  but,  in  the 
presence  of  even  a  trace  of  alcohol,  it  acquires  a  red 
coloration.  By  mixing  in  a  graduated  cylinder  equal 
volumes  of  the  oil  and  distilled  water,  and  shaking 
vigorously,  the  oil,  after  the  water  has  settled,  shows  a 
decrease  in  volume  if  alcohol  be  present.  The  presence 
of  fat  oil  can  be  readily  recognized  by  bringing  a  drop 
of  the  oil  to  be  tested  upon  filtering  paper ;  a  grease 
stain  is  formed,  which  disappears  neither  at  the  ordi- 
nary temperature  nor  by  heating.  Adulteration  with 
oil  of  turpentine  is  recognized  by  the  boiling  point,  that 
of  oil  of  turpentine  being  312.8°  F.,  and  that  of  oil  of 
lavender,  as  previously  stated,  366.8°  F. 

Spike  oil  should  mix  clear  with  equal  parts  of  90  per 
cent,  alcohol ;  the  contrary  would  indicate  adulteration 
with  oil  of  turpentine. 

For  perfumery,  lavender  oil  is  of  great  importance, 
it  being  much  employed  by  itself,  as  well  as  mixed  with 
other  oils. 

Lemon  oil  (oleum  limonis)  is  obtained  by  various  pro- 
cesses from  the  rinds  of  lemons.  The  best  and  most 
delicately-scented  oil  is  obtained  by  the  so-called  sponge 


VOLATILE   OILS   USED    IN    PERFUMERY.  117 

process  in  use  in  Southern  Italy  and  Sicily.  The  rinds 
are  soaked  from  fifteen  to  twenty-five  minutes  in  water, 
to  which  sometimes  a  little  soda  is  added.  They  are 
taken  up  singly  in  the  right  hand  and  the  outer  surface 
of  each  is  firmly  pressed  against  a  large  and  rather 
hard-grained  sponge  held  in  the  left  hand  and  secured 
by  a  strap.  Two  or  three  sharp  turns  of  the  wrist  im- 
part what  may  be  called  a  screw-pressure  to  the  rind, 
thus  effectually  fracturing  the  oil  cells,  the  sponge  ab- 
sorbing the  contents.  The  sponge  is  constantly  held 
over  an  earthen  jar  and  occasionally  squeezed  into  it. 
The  fluid  in  the  jar  quickly  separates  into  three  different 
products — the  dregs  or  deposit  of  mucilaginous  and 
cellular  matter,  some  fruit  juice,  and  the  pure  oil,  which 
floats  on  the  top.  The  latter,  when  bright  and  clear,  is 
passed,  by  means  of  a  small  glass  siphon,  into  the  cans 
of  thin  copper,  in  which,  after  sealing,  it  is  stored 
away  for  export. 

The  above  described  primitive  mode  of  fabrication 
furnishes  the  most  highly  prized  oils  of  commerce  ;  they 
are  called  hand-pressed  oils  or  essences  preparees  a 
Veponge.  In  the  same  manner  are  obtained  the  oils  from 
the  sweet  and  bitter  pomegranate,  the  bergamotte,  and 
mandarin  orange. 

Another  method  of  expressing  the  oil  is  that  of  the 
ccuelle  a  piquer,  much  used  in  the  region  about  Nice. 
The  oils  obtained  by  this  method,  which  are  also  of  a 
very  fine  quality,  are  marked  essence  a  Vecuelle  or  au 
zeste.  The  apparatus  consists  of  a  round  shallow  pan 
of  copper  or  brass,  having  a  receptacle  for  the  oil  at  its 
lowest  part  and  a  lip  on  one  side  for  pouring,  and 
studded  on  its  concavity  by  strong  blunt  spiker.  The 


118  MANUFACTURE   OF   PERFUMERY. 

workman  takes  the  fruit  and  rolls  it  gently  but  quickly 
around  the  inside  of  the  ecuelle ;  the  spikes  prick  the 
oil  sacs,  whereupon  the  oil,  running  down  the  spikes  and 
the  concavity  of  the  pan,  collects  in  the  reservoir  at  the 
lowest  part.  The  oil  is  filtered  and  then  poured  into 
clean  glass  bottles,  in  which  the  impurities  are  allowed 
to  settle. 

In  Reggio,  where  especially  much  bergamot  oil  is 
manufactured,  sheet-metal  bowl-like  vessels,  studded 
inside  with  sharp  ribs,  are  used.  Six  to  eight  fruits  are 
placed  in  the  vessel.  A  movable  lid  closes  the  vessel, 
so  that  there  is  just  enough  space  for  the  fruits  between 
the  lid  and  the  bottom  of  the  vessel.  If  now  the  lid  be 
revolved  by  hand-  or  steam-power,  the  rinds  of  the  fruit 
are  torn  apart,  and  the  oil  together  with  the  juice  runs 
through  the  sieve-bottom  of  the  apparatus  into  a  cylin- 
drical vessel  where  it  clarifies. 

The  third  method  of  obtaining  the  oil  is  by  expression. 
The  grated  rind  is  placed  in  hair  mats,  and  subjected  to 
powerful  pressure  by  means  of  a  screw  or  lever  press. 

The  process  of  distillation  is  carried  on  as  follows : 
The  peels,  which  should  be  from  select  fruit,  are  sprinkled 
with  powdered  salt,  and  a  few  hours  afterwards  sufficient 
water  to  moisten  them  is  poured  over  them.  A  day  or 
two  afterwards  more  water  is  added,  and  the  whole  is 
distilled  until  either  no  more  oil  separates  or  the  steam, 
at  first  purely  fragrant,  begins  to  acquire  a  rank  and 
rather  unpleasant  smell.  The  oil  obtained  by  distilla- 
tion is  inferior  to  the  others. 

Lately  a  combination  of  the  ecuelle  and  distilling  pro- 
cesses has  been  introduced  by  Doinenico  Monfalcone, 


VOLATILE   OILS    USED   IN    PERFUMERY. 


119 


which  has  given  excellent  results.  It  is  shown  in  Fig. 
20.  F  F  is  a  hollow  cylinder,  of  sheet-iron,  the  interior 
surface  of  which  is  studded  with  a  large  number  of 
small  metallic  knife-points.  This  cylinder  revolves  on 


FIG.  20. 


two  axles  attached  to  it  at  diagonally  opposite  points. 
The  cylinder  having  been  half-charged  with  lemons, 
together  with  a  small  quantity  of  water,  is  set  in  motion 
by  aid  of  the  shafting  and  pulleys  driven  by  the  small 
steam  engine.  The  fruits  are  thereby  made  to  come  in 
contact  with  the  metallic  lancets,  and  their  whole  surface 
gradually  becomes  punctured  sufficiently  to  rupture  the 
cells  containing  the  volatile  oil,  which  escapes.  The 
cylinder  jPjPhas  double  walls,  the  space  between  them 
being  intended  for  the  circulation  of  a  current  of  steam, 
which  is  admitted  to  heat  the  water  and  to  facilitate  the 
extraction  of  the  oil,  while  at  the  same  time  the  vapors  are 
rarefied  or  aspirated  by  the  vacuum  pump  L.  The 


120  MANUFACTURE    OF   PERFUMERY. 

axles  of  the  cylinder  on  both  sides  are  hollow ;  that  on 
the  side  looking  towards  the  engine  is  imbedded  in 
such  a  manner  that  steam  from  the  boiler  D  may  be  ad- 
mitted at  will,  either  into  the  double  walls  of  the  cylin- 
der, or  into  the  interior  of  the  cylinder  itself,  while 
the  hollow  passage  in  the  other  axle  communicates  with 
a  condensing  worm,  Gr,  the  outlet  of  which,  H,  descends 
into  a  cylindrical  vessel,  J,  intended  to  receive  the  con- 
densed products,  consisting  of  water  and  volatile  oil. 
"When  the  apparatus  is  first  set  in  motion  the  pump  L 
begins  to  produce  a  vacuum  during  the  first  revolutions 
of  the  cylinder.  Steam  being  now  cautiously  admitted 
into  the  double  walls  of  the  cylinder,  the  water  is  raised 
to  boiling  at  a  comparatively  low  temperature,  and  the 
vapors  charged  with  the  volatile  oil  pass  over  into  the 
receptacle,  where  they  separate  into  two  layers.  The 
product  obtained  by  this  process  is  claimed  to  be  equal 
in  quality  to  that  obtained  by  mechanical  means,  and 
the  yield  nearly  double. 

During  the  months  of  November  to  March  the  average 
yield  from  1000  lemons  in  the  factories  of  Palermo  is 
320  grammes  of  oil ;  in  those  of  Messina,  where  a  better 
quality  of  fruit  is  employed,  the  yield  is  about  400 
grammes.  The  same  number  of  lemons  yield  about 
10  gallons  of  juice,  the  collection  of  which  is,  of  course, 
a  necessary  accompaniment  of  the  manufacture  of  vola- 
tile oil. 

Pure  oil  of  lemons  is  almost  colorless  and  has  the 
odor  of  the  fruit.  Its  specific  gravity  varies  between 
0.8752  and  0.8785 ;  it  boils  at  298.4°  F.,  and  is  soluble 
in  all  proportions  in  absolute  alcohol  and  glacial  acetic 
acid.  It  contains,  according  to  G.  Bouchardat  and  J. 


VOLATILE    OILS    USED    IN    PERFUMERY.  121 

Lafont,  besides  a  little  cymene,  several  hydrocarbons,  the 
most  abundant  of  which  is  citrene,  C10H16,  boiling  near 
352.5°  F.,  having  a  rotatory  power  exceeding  +  105°, 
and  yielding  a  solid  optically  inactive  dihydrochloride. 

Oil  of  lemons  is  frequently  adulterated  with  oil  of  tur- 
pentine. This  may  be  detected,  according  to  G.  Heppe, 
by  slowly  heating  the  oil  in  a  dry  test-tube  with  a  small 
piece  of  copper  butyrate  to  about  338°  F.,  taking  care 
that  the  temperature  does  not  exceed  356 °F.  The  copper 
salt  will  dissolve  in  pure  oil  of  lemons  with  a  green  color, 
while  in  the  presence  of  oil  of  turpentine  a  yellow  turbid 
mixture  is  obtained,  reddish-yellow  cuprous  oxide  being 
separated.  This  test  is  also  applicable  to  oils  of  bergamot 
and  of  orange-peel. 

r?  Lilac  oil  is  obtained  from  the  flowers  of  Syringa  vul- 
garis,  the  lilac,  by  aqueous  distillation  and  subsequent 
extraction  with  benzine.  It  is  also  frequently  prepared 
by  the  absorption  process.  It  is  used  for  the  most  ex- 
pensive perfumes,  and  is  seldom  found  in  commerce. 

Limes,  oil  of  (oleum  limettce),  is  derived  from  the  rind 
of  the  fruit  of  Citrus  limetta,  or  lime.  The  oil  is  ob- 
tained in  the  same  manner  as  oil  of  lemons,  which  it 
somewhat  resembles.  Its  mean  specific  gravity  is  0.8734 
at  84°  F.  The  oil  made  by  the  dcuelle  process  is  of  a 
decidedly  yellow  color,  varying  in  intensity,  being  darker 
in  the  fresh  product.  The  difference  in  flavor  and  aroma 
is  so  marked  as  scarcely  to  require  any  other  means  of 
distinguishing  the  oil  made  by  the  ecuelle  process  from 
that  obtained  by  distillation,  the  first  having  a  decided 
fragrant  lemon  smell,  whilst  the  distilled  oil  is  very  in- 
ferior, frequently  possessing  little  more  than  the  smell 
of  turpentine.  Large  quantities  of  oil  of  limes  are 


122  MANUFACTURE   OF   PERFUMERY. 

manufactured  in  Dominica,  but  most  of  the  oil  ex- 
ported from  there  is  of  an  inferior  quality  and  was 
formerly  solely  used  for  adulterating  oil  of  lemons. 
Lately  it  has  also  been  employed  for  scenting  soaps  and 
in  the  manufacture  of  the  common  essences  and  perfumes. 
•  Licari  oil,  linaloe  oil,  is  obtained,  partially  in  Mexico 
and  partially  in  Cayenne,  from  the  wood  of  the  white 
cedar  (bois  de  rosefemelle),  Lieari  canali.  It  is  limpid, 
has  an  agreeable  odor,  reminding  one  of  roses,  and  does 
not  become  solid  at  4°  F.  Its  specific  gravity  is  0.868 
at  59°  F.,  and  it  boils  at  388.4°  F. 

Marjoram  oils. — By  distilling  the  leaves  of  Origanum 
marjorana]  L.,  the  marjoram  oil  (oleum  marjorance)  is  ob- 
tained. It  is  yellowish  or  green-yellowish,  but  becomes 
reddish-brown  by  age.  If  badly  kept  it  finally  becomes 
thickly-fluid  and  sticky,  sometimes  depositing  a  reddish 
stearoptene.  The  odor  of  marjoram  oil  is  less  agreeable 
than  that  of  the  plant,  and  the  taste  peculiar,  bitter, 
cooling.  The  oil  dissolves  readily  in  90  per  cent, 
alcohol,  and  when  mixed  with  equal  parts  of  it  yields  a 
clear  solution.  Its  specific  gravity  is  0.89  to  0.91.  It 
should  be  kept  in  entirely  filled,  well-closed  bottles  in  a 
shady  place.  On  coming  in  contact  with  air,  it  absorbs 
oxygen  with  avidity  and  forms  a  white,  odorless,  crystal- 
line mass. 

From  Origanum  vulgare,  L.,  the  ordinary  marjoram 
oil  (oleum  origani  vulgaris)  is  obtained.  It  is  yellowish 
or  reddish,  limpid,  of  specific  gravity  0.90  to  0.95,  and 
has  a  camphor-like  odor. 

Spanish  marjoram  (oleum  origani  cretici)  is  obtained 
by  distillation  from  the  flowering  plants  of  several 
varieties  of  marjoram  (Or.  creticum,  Or.  hirtum,  Or. 


VOLATILE   OILS   USED   IN   PERFUMERY.          123 

smyrnceum).  It  is  brought  into  commerce  from  Trieste, 
Smyrna,  Salonica,  and  other  Mediterranean  seaports. 
The  oil  exported  from  France  appears  to  be  derived 
from  another  variety  of  marjoram  ;  at  least  it  shows  a 
different  behavior  and  approaches  more  the  ordinary 
marjoram  oil.  The  genuine  oil  is  thickly-fluid,  generally 
yellow-brown ;  of  specific  gravity  0.95  to  0.97 ;  has  a 
strong,  aromatic  odor,  and  produces  upon  the  tongue  a 
sharp  continued  burning.  It  dissolves  in  equal  parts  of 
90  per  cent,  alcohol.  It  is  chiefly  adulterated  with 
copaiba  oil,  the  presence  of  which  can  be  recognized  by 
the  oil  dissolving  with  greater  difficulty. 

The  marjoram  oils  are  but  little  used  for  perfuming 
purposes. 

Mignonette  oil  (oleum  resedoz).  The  well-known 
mignonette,  Reseda  odoratissima,  yields  a  thick  yel- 
lowish oil,  either  by  maceration  and  absorption,  or  by 
extraction  with  ether  or  petroleum-ether.  It  has  a  pene- 
trating, disagreeable  odor,  which  can  only  be  rendered 
agreeable  by  greatly  diluting  the  oil.  In  gathering 
the  flowers  care  must  be  had  not  to  mix  them  with 
leaves,  as  this  spoils  the  odor  of  the  oil. 

Myrrh  oil  (oleum  myrthce)  is  obtained  from  the  leaves 
of  Myrtus  communis,  L.  It  is  yellowish,  dextrorotatory, 
of  specific  gravity  0.910  at  60.8°  F.,  and  commences  to 
boil  at  320°  F.  As  its  principal  constituents,  Jahns 
has  established  a  terpene  (C10H16),  boiling  at  from  316.4° 
to  320°  F.,  and  turning  the  plane  of  polarization  to 
the  right,  and  cineol  (C10H16O),  which  boils  at  348.8° 
F.  Besides  these  principal  constituents  there  seems  to 
be  present  a  very  small  quantity  of  a  camphor,  correspond- 
ing very  likely  to  the  formula  C10H16O.  Myrtol,  which 


124  MANUFACTURE    OF   PERFUMERY. 

was  formerly  supposed  to  exist  in  myrtle  oil,  lias  been 
found  to  be  a  mixture  of  the  dextrorotatory  terpene  and 
of  cineol. 

Nutmeg  oils. — From  mace,  the  fresh  aril  of  the 
nutmeg  (Mynstioa  fragrans,  Houtt,  natural  order 
Myristicacece),  mace  oil  (oleum  macidis),  is  obtained  by 
distillation.  It  is  straw-yellow  or  yellowish,  later  on 
yellow-reddish,  clear,  somewhat  thickly-fluid,  of  a  strong 
odor  resembling  that  of  mace,  and  a  taste  at  first  mild, 
but  later  on  pungent  and  aromatic.  It  mixes  clear  in 
every  proportion  with  absolute  alcohol,  but  of  90  per 
cent,  alcohol,  5  to  6  volumes  are  required  for  a  clear 
solution.  The  specific  gravity  of  the  oil  varies  from 
0.87  to  0.92.  With  iodine  it  detonates,  vapors  being 
emitted.  The  oil  obtained  from  dried  mace  has  a  less 
agreeable  odor. 

The  oil  is  frequently  adulterated  with  tincture  of  nut- 
meg prepared  with  absolute  alcohol.  Such  an  adultera- 
tion, as  well  as  any  content  of  alcohol,  is  recognized  by 
shaking  0.5  cubic  centimeter  of  the  oil  with  a  grain  of 
rosaniline.  In  the  presence  of  alcohol  the  oil  acquires 
a  red  coloration,  while  pure  oil  remains  uncolored. 

From  the  nutmegs,  the  seed  of  Myristica  fragrans, 
freed  from  the  seed-coat  and  aril,  a  volatile  oil 
(oleum  nucistce  cethereum)  is  also  obtained  by  distillation. 
It  is  generally  yellowish,  seldom  colorless,  somewhat 
thickly-fluid  and  has  the  odor  and  taste  of  nutmegs.  It 
is  readily  soluble  in  alcohol  and  ether  and  of  specific 
gravity,  0.93  to  0.95.  It  consists  of  two  oils,  one  speci- 
fically lighter  and  fluid,  and  the  other  heavy  and  crystal- 
line. On  standing  it  deposits  a  stearoptene,  called 
myristicin. 


VOLATILE   OILS   USED   IN   PERFUMERY.  125 

The  nutmeg  oils  are  but  seldom  used  in  perfumery. 

Opopanax  oil  is  obtained  from  opopanax.*  It  is  of 
gold-yellow  color  and  an  agreeable  balsamic  odor  re- 
minding one  somewhat  of  myrrh.  Its  specific  gravity  is 
0.9016,  and  it  boils  between  392°  and  572°  F. 

On  account  of  its  strength,  the  oil  must  be  very  care- 
fully handled  in  perfuming,  but  if  used  in  the  correct 
proportion  it  is  very  advantageous. 

Orange-peel  oil,  also  called  Portugal  oil  or  essence  of 
Portugal,  is  obtained  in  Italy  from  the  fresh  peels  of  the 
orange,  the  fruit  of  Citrus  vulgaris,  Eisso.  It  is  pre- 
pared in  a  manner  similar  to  that  of  oil  of  lemons  (which 
see).  In  commerce  a  distinction  is  made  between  the 
Messina  oil,  which  is  of  inferior  quality,  and  the  Calabria 
oil,  which  is  of  a  better  quality.  The  Messina  oil  has  a 
yellow  color,  frequently  not  much  darker  than  that  of 
oil  of  lemons,  while  the  color  of  Calabria  oil  is  dark  yel- 
low, nearly  brown.  The  oil  prepared  from  the  peels  of 
the  bitter  orange  (Citrus  bigaradia,  Duhamel),  is  of 
the  same  color  as  the  sweet  Messina  oil.  It  is  more  used 
in  the  preparation  of  liqueurs  than  for  perfuming. 
Orange-peel  oils  are  limpid  and  have  a  specific  gravity 
of  0.819  to  0.9.  One  part  of  orange-peel  oil  should,  ac- 
cording to  its  age,  dissolve  clear  in  5  to  10  parts  of  90 
per  cent,  alcohol. 

Very  similar  to  orange-peel  oil,  though  differing 
somewhat  in  odor,  is  the  mandarin  oil  obtained  from 
the  fresh  peels  of  the  mandarin  orange,  the  fruit  of 
Citrus  sinensis.  It  is  brought  into  commerce  from 
Keggio  and  is  said  to  form  a  constituent  of  the  genuine 

*  See  later  on  under  "  Balsams  and  Resins." 


126  MANUFACTURE   OF   PEEFUMERY. 

essbouquet.     It  has  a  specific  gravity  of  0.852  at  5^ 
and  is  dextrorotatory. 

While  from  the  peels  the  volatile  oil  is  but  s  .^m 
obtained  by  distillation,  this  process  is  exclusively  used 
for  gaining  volatile  oils  from  the  flowers,  leaves,  and 
young  branches.  In  this  connection  two  kinds  of  vola- 
tile oil  have  chiefly  to  be  considered,  viz  :  orange-flower 
oil  and  petit-grain  oil. 

Orange-flower  oil  or  neroli  oil  (oleum  florum  aurantii ; 
ol.  neroli;  ol.  naphce)  is  obtained  by  distillation  from  the 
flowers  of  the  bitter  orange ;  while  the  flowers  of  the 
sweet  orange  yield  the  so-called  neroli-Portugal  oil,  which 
is  far  inferior  to  the  other. 

On  the  French  Riviera,  the  orange  is  especially  cul- 
tivated for  obtaining  blossoms  and  leaves  for  distilling 
purposes.  At  Cannes,  Le  Cannet,  Golfe-Juan,  Val- 
lauris,  Biot,  Vence,  Le  Bar,  Antibes,  Le  Cap,  Nice, 
and  Mentone,  the  bitter  orange,  whose  flowers  are 
very  numerous  and  especially  suitable  for  perfumery,  is 
chiefly  cultivated.  Cannes  and  Le  Cannet  alone  pos- 
sess 150,000  to  160,000  such  trees,  and  Golfe-Juan 
and  Vallauris  200,000.  The  flowers  harvested  in 
Golfe-Juan  amount  to  about  700,000  Ibs.,  in  Le  Cannet 
to  about  330,000  Ibs.,  at  Cannes  to  about  130,000  Ibs., 
and  in  Antibes,  Mentone,  and  Nice  to  about  260,000  Ibs. 
f  One  orange  tree  yields,  according  to  its  age,  from  2  to 
\17  Ibs.  of  flowers.  The  distillation  of  neroli  oil  has 
also  been  lately  commenced  in  Sicily  and  Calabria,  but 
as  far  as  quality  is  concerned,  the  oil  thus  far  brought 
into  commerce  cannot  compete  with  the  French  oil. 

Oil  of  orange  flowers  is  at  first  nearly  colorless  or 
straw-yellow,  but  becomes  reddish-yellow  when  kept  for 


VOLATILE   OILS   USED    IN   PERFUMERY.  127 

>  time.  In  a  clear  glass  it  opalizes  bluish.  It  is 
I  and  has  a  slightly  bitter  taste  and  a  strong  but 
vc^j.  delicious  odor.  Its  specific  gravity  varies  between 
0.85  and  0.90.  It  is  but  sparingly  soluble  in  water, 
but  imparts  to  the  latter  an  agreeable  odor;  the  solution 
is  colored  red  by  sulphuric  acid.  With  1  to  2  parts 
of  90  per  cent,  alcohol,  the  oil  gives  a  clear  solution 
which  becomes  turbid  by  a  further  addition  of  alcohol 
and,  after  standing  quietly,  a  flaky  separation  of  stearop- 
tene  is  observed.  If  not  carefully  kept  the  oil  becomes 
darker  and  even  acquires  a  disagreeable  odor.  By  recti- 
fication with  water  oil  thus  spoiled  can  be  restored. 
With  sodium  the  oil  does  not  evolve  hydrogen  gas ;  it 
detonates  with  iodine. 

Of  the  various  oils  of  orange  blossoms  occurring  in 
commerce  "  Neroli  petale"  is  the  best. 

JNeroli  oil  being  a  very  expensive  oil  is  exposed  to 
many  adulterations.  Mierzinski  even  asserts  that  no 
genuine  unadulterated  neroli  oil  occurs  in  commerce,  be- 
cause it  is  a  well-known  fact  that  what  is  sold  as  genuine, 
pure  neroli  oil,  consists  on  an  average  off  genuine  neroli 
oil,  -|  oil  of  bergamot,  and  -|  petit-grain  oil.  Further- 
more, it  is  no  secret  that  besides  the  flowers  of  all  kinds 
of  Aurantiacece,  unripe  fruits  or  fresh  peels  of  ripe  fruits 
and  even  young  shoots  of  the  branches  and  leaves  are 
subjected  to  distillation.  This  assertion  perhaps  goes 
too  far,  but  nevertheless  it  is  advisable  to  procure  the 
oil  only  from  a  thoroughly  reliable  firm. 

A  very  frequent  adulteration  consists  in  an  addition 
of  petit-grain  oil.  Such  an  addition  can  only  be  recog- 
nized by  the  taste  and  odor.  For  this  purpose  add  to 
3  drops  of  oil  in  a  small  bottle  10  grammes  of  distilled 


128  MANUFACTURE   OF    PERFUMERY. 

water,  and,  after  shaking  vigorously,  test  as  to  the  odor 
and  taste.  According  to  Chevalier,  pour  1  or  2  drops 
of  the  oil  upon  sugar  and  stir  the  latter  in  water;  if  the 
oil  is  not  genuine  the  water  acquires  a  bitter  taste. 
Hager  recommends  the  following  test :  Mix  3  drops  of 
the  oil  in  a  test-tube  with  40  to  50  drops  of  alcohol ;  add, 
after  complete  solution,  about  J  the  volume  of  the  solu- 
tion of  concentrated  sulphuric  acid,  and  effect  mixture 
by  careful  shaking.  Pure  oil  gives  a  turbid,  reddish, 
dark-brown  mixture  (with  old  oil,  dark  brown) ;  almost 
all  other  oils,  which  may  be  substituted,  give  paler-colored 
(reddish,  red,  or  ocher-color)  mixtures ;  or,  in  case  the 
genuine  oil  is  adulterated  with  non-genuine,  the  mixture 
exhibits  a  considerably  less  dark-color.  When  this  test 
has  been  several  times  executed  with  genuine  oil,  no 
room  for  doubt  is  left.  *  If  the  mixture  be  diluted  with 
four  times  its  volume  of  water,  it  becomes  yellowish  and 
milky. 

The  odor  of  orange  flowers  is,  according  to  Soubeiran, 
due  to  two  volatile  oils,  of  which  the  one  having  the 
most  delicious  odor  is  soluble  in  water.  The  other 
volatile  oil,  of  which  the  neroli  oil  of  commerce  chiefly 
consists,  is  sparingly  soluble  in  water,  and  does  not  pos- 
sess such  a  delicious  odor.  This  is  the  reason  why  good 
orange-flower  water  cannot  be  prepared  by  saturating 
water  with  neroli  oil.  The  genuine  orange-flower  water 
is  obtained  as  a  by-product  in  distilling  the  oil. 

Neroli  oil  is  much  used  for  the  finer  perfumes,  it  being 
especially  a  necessary  constitutent  of  eau  de  Cologne.  It 
has  to  be  carefully  protected  from  air  and  light.  For 
perfuming  purposes  it  is  only  sufficiently  ripe  after 
having  been  stored  for  at  least  one  year.  If,  however, 


VOLATILE    OILS    USED    IX    PERFUMERY.  129 

it  becomes  too  old,  it  inclines  towards  rancidity,  which 
may  be  prevented  by  compounding  it  with  an  equal 
volume  of  fine  spirit.  Portugal  oil  being  of  inferior 
quality  can  only  be  used  for  lower  grade  products. 

Petit  grain  oil  (oleum  petit  grain)  is  obtained  by  dis- 
tillation from  the  leaves,  young  shoots  and  unripe  fruits 
of  different  Aurantiacece.  The  best  oil  is  that  distilled 
from  the  leaves  of  the  bitter  orange,  it  possessing  an  odor 
similar  to  that  of  neroli  oil,  but,  of  course,  not  so  fine. 
Southern  France  was  formerly  the  chief  place  for  the 
production  of  this  oil,  but  considerable  quantities  of  it 
are  now  manufactured  in  Paraguay,  and  the  oil  at  pre- 
sent brought  from  there  into  commerce  being  of  quite  a 
good  quality  and  considerably  cheaper  than  the  French 
oil,  has  almost  entirely  supplanted  the  latter. 

Om-s  root,  oil  of  (oleum  iridis),  is  obtained  by  distilla- 
tion with  steam  from  the  rhizomes  of  Iris  florentina, 
which  is  cultivated  in  Southern  France,  Dalmatia,  and 
other  regions.  It  has  a  yellow  color  and,  at  an  ordi- 
nary temperature,  a  quite  solid  consistency  like  butter 
or  wax,  so  that  it  can  be  rendered  fluid  only  by  heating. 
It  consists  chiefly  of  a  rigid  odorless  body  to  which 
the  liquid  odoriferous  oil  adheres.  The  solid  portion 
was  formerly  designated  orris-stearoptene  ;  according  to 
Flueckiger  it  is,  however,  myristic  acid. 

Oil  of  orris  root  is  one  of  the  oils  which  keep  for 
years  without  suffering  injury.  It  is  recommended  to 
keep  it  in  stock  in  alcoholic  solution  so  that  the  myristic 
acid  contained  in  it  may  to  a  certain  degree  be  etherized, 
and  cannot  injuriously  affect  the  odoriferous  principle. 

Oil  of  orris  root  serves  as  a  substitute  and  for 
strengthening  the  natural  odor  of  violets.  It  can,  how- 
9 


130  MANUFACTURE   OF    PERFUMERY. 

ever,  be  employed  only  for  very  fine  expensive  perfu- 
mery since,  on  account  of  the  very  slight  yield  from  the 
root  (from  1000  parts  J  to  j  part  of  oil),  its  price  is 
very  high,  generally  exceeding  that  of  rose  oil. 

An  admixture  of  other  volatile  oils  of  less  value 
would  render  the  oil  fluid  at  the  ordinary  temperature. 

Patchouli  oil. — By  the  name  of  patchouli  are  known, 
according  to  L.  Wray,  Jr.,  the  leaves  of  Pogostemon 
patchouli,  Pellet,  natural  order  Labiatce,  indigenous  to 
the  East  Indies,  and  known  and  used  for  centuries  in 
the  various  regions  of  China,  Assam,  and  the  Malayan 
Islands.  Most  of  the  patchouli  comes  from  the  East 
Indies.  Before  exportation  it  is  sorted  into  three  quali- 
ties:  1.  Selected,  consisting  of  leaves  only.  2.  Mixed, 
leaves  with  slight  peduncles  and  few  stems.  3.  Stalky 
leaves.  The  best  quality  occurs  seldom  in  commerce  since 
the  picking  of  the  leaves  does  not  cover  the  expense. 

According  to  Wray,  the  leaves  are  intentionally  mixed 
Avith  those  of  the  ruku  (ocimum  basilicum,  L.),  an  herb 
indigenous  to  the  Malayan  Islands.  The  leaves  of  the 
latter  are  broader  than  those  of  pogostemon  patchouli, 
and  the  stalks  thinner  and  round.  Seed-capsules  are 
also  frequently  found  among  the  leaves,  though  patch- 
ouli seldom  flowers  and  bears  seeds. 

In  Europe,  patchouli  has  been  an  article  of  commerce 
since  1841.  In  the  Orient  it  is  highly  esteemed  as  a 
perfume.  The  Arabs  even  ascribe  remedial  properties 
to  it,  and  it  is  customary  with  them  to  fill  their  pillows 
with  the  leaves  to  protect  them  from  infection  and  pro- 
long their  lives. 

The  peculiar,  penetrating,  though  not  exactly  agree- 
able, odor  of  patchouli  leaves,  is  due  to  a  volatile  oil,  of 


VOLATILE   OILS   USED   IN   PERFUMERY.  131 

which  they  contain  1.5  to  2  per  cent.  In  the  Orient 
this  oil  has  for  many  years  been  obtained  by  distillation. 

In  the  Penang  market  two  kinds  of  oil,  one  green 
and  the  other  gold-brown,  are  distinguished.  Though 
both  are  sold  at  the  same  price,  there  is  a  greater  de- 
mand for  the  green  oil.  According  to  the  statements 
of  the  distillers,  the  brown  oil  is  derived  from  the  leaves 
of  old  plants  and  the  green  oil  from  the  leaves  of  young 
plants.  It  would  seem,  however,  that  the  color  is  de- 
pendent on  the  soil  upon  which  the  plants  are  grown,  as 
well  as  upon  atmospheric  influences.  When  ruku  is 
distilled  with  patchouli  leaves,  the  oil  is  yellow  and 
thickly-fluid. 

In  Germany,  the  oil  is  now  distilled  from  imported 
leaves.  It  is  thickly-fluid,  of  a  brown  color,  and,  in  an 
undiluted  state,  possesses  a  disagreeable,  almost  musty 
odor.  However,  when  sufficiently  diluted  and  suitably 
mixed  with  other  volatile  oils,  the  odor  is  far  more 
agreeable,  and  for  this  reason  it  has  for  some  time 
played  an  important  part  in  the  manufacture  of  per- 
fumery. It  has  the  advantage  of  being  very  yielding 
and  lasting,  but,  on  the  other  hand,  possesses  the  disad- 
vantage of  not  combining  with  other  perfumes,  so  that 
its  odor  is  always  perceptible.  It  should  always  be 
used  in  very  small  quantities  or  much  diluted. 

In  commerce  Penang  oil  and  French  oil  are  distin- 
guished, the  first  having  a  specific  gravity  of  0.959  and 
the  latter  of  1.012.  When  kept  for  any  length  of  time 
the  oil  deposits  patchouli-camphor  (C^H^O)  in  pris- 
matic crystals  of  1.045  specific  gravity  and  melting  at 
127  to  129°  F.  These  crystals  have  a  peculiar,  very 
lasting  odor. 


132  MANUFACTURE   OF   PERFUMERY. 

Patchouli  oil  is  soluble  in  equal  parts  of  90  per  cent, 
alcohol,  the  contrary  indicating  that  it  is  not  pure.  It 
is  chiefly  adulterated  with  cedar  oil. 

Peppermint  oil. — The  Meniha  family  furnishes  com- 
merce with  three  oils  differing  essentially  from  each 
other — oil  of  curled  mint,  peppermint  oil,  and  poley  oil. 

Oil  of  curled  mint  (oleum  menthce  crispce)  is  separated 
by  distillation  with  water  from  the  leaves  of  Mentha 
crispa,  Linn.  It  is  limpid,  yellowish,  sometimes  green- 
ish ;  in  time  it  becomes  darker  and  more  thickly-fluid. 
Its  specific  gravity  varies  between  0.890  and  0.965.  It 
has  a  strong  odor  of  curled  mint  and  a  pungent,  some- 
what cooling,  slightly  bitterish  taste.  It  is  soluble  in 
all  proportions  in  90  per  cent,  alcohol.  In  commerce  a 
distinction  is  made  between  German  and  American  oil 
of  curled  mint,  the  latter  generally  containing  oil  of 
turpentine  and  oil  of  sassafras.  Odor,  taste,  and  the 
alcohol  test  suffice  for  the  determination  of  the  quality 
of  the  oil. 

Oil  of  curled  mint  contains  a  terpene,  C10H,6,  arid  a 
body  isomeric  with  carvol,  the  carvol  of  curled  mint, 
C10H14O.  Its  specific  gravity,  boiling  point  and  chemi- 
cal properties  are  the  same  as  those  of  the  carvol  of  cara- 
way oil,  but  it  differs  from  it  by  its  odor  and  turning  the 
plane  of  polarization  to  the  opposite  direction.  In  con- 
junction with  other  volatile  oils,  oil  of  curley  mint  is 
sometimes  used  for  perfuming  soaps. 

Peppermint  oil  (oleum  menthce  piperitce)  is  obtained 
from  the  fresh  flowering  peppermint,  Mentha  piperitaj 
natural  order  Labiatce.  In  commerce,  German,  English, 
American  and  Japanese  peppermint  oils  are  distin- 
guished. As  regards  fineness,  the  German  oil  is  inferior 


VOLATILE   OILS   USED   IN   PERFUMERY.  133 

to  the  Eoglish  and  better  kinds  of  American  oils,  but 
superior  to  the  Japanese.  The  best  and  most  expensive 
oil  is  the  English  so-called  "  Mitcham  oil  of  peppermint," 
which  dissolves  in  50  parts  of  50  per  cent,  spirit  of  wine 
and  possesses  a  fine,  pure  taste,  it  being  for  this  reason 
preferred  by  distillers  for  the  fabrication  of  liqueurs. 
For  perfuming  purposes,  however,  the  American  as  well 
as  the  German  oils  are  very  suitable.  Of  American  oils 
that  of  H.  G.  Hotchkiss,  L.  B.  Hotchkiss,  Hale  &  Par- 
shall,  and  Fritzsche  Bros,  enjoy  a  high  reputation.  The 
Japanese  oil  is  distinguished  from  the  rest  by  a  peculiar 
train-oil-like  odor  and  taste,  and  is  in  but  little  demand. 

Crude  oil  of  peppermint  is  yellowish  to  greenish  and 
contains  much  mucus  ;  it  has  therefore  to  be  subjected 
to  another  distillation  with  water.  The  rectified  oil  is 
clear  as  water,  limpid,  of  a  strong  but  pleasant  odor  and 
a  specific  gravity  of  0.900  to  0.902.  Old  oil  thickens 
and  then  shows  an  acid  reaction.  The  greater  portion 
of  the  oil  congeals  at  the  freezing  point  of  water ;  many 
kinds,  however,  requiring  but  slight  cooling  in  order  to 
become  solid.  The  solid  portion  of  the  oil,  Menthol, 
(C10H12,H2O)  is  a  colorless,  finely  crystallized  body  with 
an  intense  odor  of  peppermint.  It  melts  at  107.6°  F., 
is  quite  fluid  at  an  ordinary  temperature  and  boils  at 
413.6°  F.  Menthol  is  found  in  all  oils  of  peppermint 
most  abundantly  in  the  Japanese  oil,  which  contains 
from  50  to  55  per  cent,  of  it.  Mitcham  oil  is  also  very 
rich  in  menthol,  it  containing  from  40  to  45  per  cent., 
while  the  American  oil  contains  only  from  20  to  25  per 
cent. 

American,  German  and  English  oils  of  peppermint 
may  be  distinguished  as  follows  :  By  adding  to  5  or  6 


134  MANUFACTURE   OF   PERFUMERY. 

drops  of  the  oil,  25  to  30  drops  of  pure  white  concen- 
trated sulphuric  acid,  American  oil  of  peppermint  becomes 
heated  and  emits  vapors,  the  mixture  acquiring  a  dark 
brownish  red  coloration.  After  mixing  with  8  to  10 
cubic  centimeters  of  90  per  cent,  alcohol,  the  fluid 
becomes  turbid,  pale  yellowish  brown,  or  reddish  brown, 
and  on  boiling  clear  pale  brown.  When  mixed  with 
sulphuric  acid,  German  oil  of  peppermint  becomes  heated 
without  emitting  vapors,  becomes  yellowish  red,  not 
very  dark,  and  turbid.  After  diluting  with  alcohol,  the 
fluid  becomes  turbid  and  yellowish  red,  and  on  boiling 
somewhat  more  transparent  and  currant-red.  English 
oil  of  peppermint  treated  in  the  same  manner  as  the 
others  with  sulphuric  acid  becomes  very  slightly  heated 
without  any  emission  of  vapor.  After  diluting  with 
alcohol,  it  becomes  clear  and  raspberry  red. 

As  adulterants  of  peppermint  oil  are  mentioned : 
fat  oils,  alcohol,  oil  of  turpentine,  copaiba  oil,  mustard 
oil,  and  ginger  oil.  The  most  frequent  adulteration  is 
an  admixture  of  oil  of  turpentine.  It  is  recognized  by 
the  oil  not  dissolving  clear  in  equal  parts  of  90  per 
cent,  alcohol,  as  is  the  case  with  the  pure  product.  To 
detect  the  presence  of  copaiba  oil,  mix  5  drops  of  the 
oil  to  be  tested  with  15  to  20  drops  of  fuming  nitric 
acid,  shake  and  allow  it  to  stand  for  1  to  2  hours. 
After  this  time  the  oily  portion  should  be  neither  entirely 
nor  partially  congealed,  but  remain  fluid.  To  detect 
traces  of  mustard  oil,  bring  10  drops  of  the  oil  into  a 
wide  reagent  glass,  then  add  3  to  4  cubic  centimeters 
of  absolute  alcohol,  2  to  3  drops  of  silver  nitrate  solu- 
tion and  12  to  15  drops  of  ammonia.  The  mixture  is 
clear  and  colorless,  and  remains  so  on  heating  to  boiling. 


VOLATILE   OILS   USED   LN    PERFUMERY.  135 

Iii  the  presence  of  mustard  oil  turbidity  and  blackening 
take  place  in  consequence  of  the  formation  of  silver 
sulphide.  After  boiling,  allow  the  fluid  to  stand  quietly 
for  2  or  3  hours.  If  it  then  shows  a  grayish  turbidity, 
the  oil  is  adulterated  with  another  volatile  oil. 

Instead  of  pure  American  oil  of  peppermint,  a  pro- 
duct compounded  with  camphor  oil,  and  mostly  freed 
from  menthol,  is  said  frequently  to  occur  in  commerce. 
According  to  E.  0.  Federer,  this  is  recognized  by  dis- 
solving one  volume  of  oil  of  peppermint  in  2  volumes 
of  94  per  cent,  alcohol,  adding  water  and  shaking.  Pure 
peppermint  oil  is  then  separated  with  a  certain  portion  of 
the  alcohol.  For  example,  mix  10  cubic  centimeters  of  oil 
of  peppermint  in  a  graduated  cylinder  of  45  to  50  cubic 
centimeters'  capacity  with  20  cubic  centimeters  of  94  per 
cent,  alcohol,  then  add  10  cubic  centimeters  of  water  of 
50°  F.  and  shake.  After  allowing  the  mixture  to  stand 
quietly,  two  layers  are  formed,  the  upper  one  of  which,  if 
the  oil  is  pure,  will  amount  to  14  cubic  centimeters,  but 
only  to  12.5  cubic  centimeters  if  the  oil  is  freed  from 
menthol  and  compounded  with  camphor  oil.  A  larger 
or  smaller  addition  of  water  to  the  alcoholic  mixture  is 
without  influence  upon  the  height  of  the  upper  layer 
separated. 

In  perfumery  peppermint  oil  serves  chiefly  for  aroma- 
tizing dentifrices,  etc.  It  should  be  kept  in  well-closed 
bottles  in  a  shady  place;  an  addition  of  0.5  per  cent,  of 
alcohol  helps  to  preserve  the  oil  for  a  long  time. 

Poky  oil  (oleum  menthce  pulegii). — In  Southern  France 
and  Spain  this  oil  is  obtained  by  distillation  from  the 
leaves  of  Mentha  pulegium.  It  has  an  odor  resembling 
that  of  peppermint,  is  at  first  colorless,  but  soon  becomes 


136  MANUFACTURE   OF    PERFUMERY. 

yellow,  has  a  specific  gravity  of  0.927,  boils  at  361.4° 
to  370.4°  F.,  and  contains  neither  menthol  nor  carvol. 
It  is  used  for  perfuming  herb  soaps. 

Pimento  oil,  or  oil  of  allspice  (oleum  pimento)  from  the 
bruised  fruit  of  Eugenia  pimento, ,  allspice,  natural  order 
Myrtacece.  The  oil  is  pale  yellow,  becoming  reddish- 
brown  by  age ;  it  has  a  very  pungent  taste  and  intense 
odor,  very  much  resembling  that  of  cloves.  It  is  heavier 
than  water,  its  specific  gravity  being  from  1.021  to  1.037. 
It  mixes  with  glacial  acetic  acid  in  all  proportions.  When 
treated  with  nitric  acid,  pure  pimento  oil  assumes  a  red 
color,  with  strong  effervescence. 

Rose  oil  or  attar  of  roses  (oleum  rosce)  comes  almost 
exclusively  from  Bulgaria,  where  it  is  obtained  by  dis- 
tillation with  water  from  the  flowers  of  Rosa  damascena. 
The  small  quantities  of  an  excellent  quality  of  rose  oil 
prepared  in  Southern  France  from  Rosa  provincialis 
remain  in  the  country  of  their  production  and  do  not 
even  cover  the  local  demand.  The  small  productions  of 
Persia  and  India  need  also  not  be  taken  into  considera- 
tion. In  Tunis,  where  formerly  much  rose  water  was 
prepared  from  Rosa  canina  and  also  rose  oil  of  a  very 
fine  quality,  the  distillation  of  roses  has,  according  to 
Christo  Christoff,  been  entirely  abandoned,  geranium  oil 
only  being  now  produced.  In  the  summer  of  1884, 
Schimmel  &  Co.,  of  Leipzic,  Germany,  made  the  ex- 
periment to  obtain  oil  on  a  large  scale  from  indigenous 
roses.  The  result  was  very  satisfactory,  2000  Ibs.  of 
rose  leaves  yielding  about  1  Ib.  of  oil,  the  extraordi- 
narily agreeable,  odor  of  which,  was  so  superior  to  that 
of  the  Turkish  oil,  that  notwithstanding  the  high  price — 
double  that  of  Turkish  oil — it  found  ready  purchasers. 


VOLATILE   OILS   USED   IN    PERFUMEEY.  137 

At  the  ordinary  temperature  the  Leipzic  oil  is  solid,  it 
only  melting  at  89.6°  F. 

In  Bulgaria,  Kazanlik,  in  the  Tundscha  Valley,  is 
the  centre  of  the  entire  industry  and  the  principal 
market.  Rose  oil  is  there  called  "  gul-jag"  (gul,  the 
rose,  and  jag,  oil).  The  annual  production  of  Kazanlik 
and  neighboring  places,  amounting  50  years  ago  to  from 
450  to  650  Ibs.,  has  within  a  few  years  risen  to  the  enor- 
mous figure  of  5500  Ibs. 

In  Kazanlik  two  varieties  of  roses,  known  as  the 
"  white  rose"  and  "  red  rose,"  are  cultivated  ;  the  former 
being  Rosa  alba,  L.,  and  the  latter  Rosa  damascena, 
Miller.  By  distillation  the  white  rose  yields  an  oil  of 
little  perfume,  but  rich  in  stearoptene.  On  account  of 
its  slight  odor,  the  white  rose  is  seldom  distilled  by 
itself,  but  occasionally  white  and  red  roses  are  mixed 
in  order  to  obtain  an  oil  rich  in  stearoptene,  so  that  a 
fraudulent  admixture  of  a  larger  quantity  of  geranium 
oil  may  be  effected  without  great  danger  of  detection. 
The  large  plantations  consist  only  of  bushes  of  red  roses. 
But  on  the  edges  of  the  field  a  strip,  a  few  feet  wide, 
is  planted  with  white  roses,  so  that  only  flowers  of  little 
commercial  value  may  be  plucked  by  passers-by. 

The  flowers  are  gathered  before  sunrise,  and,  if  pos- 
sible, the  same  day  subjected  to  distillation.  The  latter 
is  effected  in  a  very  crude  apparatus,  over  a  direct  fire. 
The  flowers  are  distilled  with  double  their  weight  of 
water,  one-half  of  which  is  drawn  off.  The  product  of 
several  operations  thus  obtained  is  combined  and  again 
distilled,  when,  however,  only  one-sixth  is  drawn  off. 
This  distillate  is  allowed  to  stand  for  one  or  two  days  in 
a  place  warmer  than  59°  F.,  when  the  oil  floating  on 


138  MANUFACTURE   OF    PERFUMERY. 

the  top  is  skimmed  off.  It  may  be  supposed  that  on  an 
average  6600  Ibs.  of  roses  are  required  to  obtain  2.2 
Ibs.  of  oil,  and  that  these  6600  Ibs.  of  roses  correspond 
to  an  area  of  1  hectare  (2.471  acres)  planted  with  rose 
bushes. 

Pure,  carefully-distilled  rose  oil  is  at  first  colorless, 
but  soon  turns  yellowish.*  Its  specific  gravity  is  be- 
tween 0.830  and  0.890.  It  consists  of  a  liquid  oil  and 
a  stearoptene,  the  content  of  the  latter  varying  very 
much.  It  is  a  pure  hydrocarbon,  odorless,  of  specific 
gravity,  0.840  to  0.860,  and  distils  at  572°  F.  Hence 
it  is  lighter  than  the  elseoptene  on  which  alone  the  odor 
of  the  rose  oil  is  dependent.  Rose  oil  generally  congeals 
between  50°  and  60°  F.,  though  sometimes  at  a  higher 
or  lower  degree,  according  to  its  content  of  stearoptene. 
While  some  oils  require  the  cold  of  winter  for  congealing, 
others  are  in  the  heat  of  summer  either  entirely  solid,  or 
form  a  fluid  filled  with  many  crystals.  The  odor  of 
rose  oil  is  peculiarly  honoy-like,  and  too  intense  to  be 
agreeable,  its  entire  deliciousness  being  only  developed 
by  strong  dilution,  be  it  by  dissolving  in  water  or 
alcohol,  or  by  distribution  upon  large  quantities  of  rigid 
bodies,  fats,  .soaps,  etc.  In  alcohol  it  dissolves  with 
greater  difficulty  than  all  other  volatile  oils,  1  part  of  it 
requiring  for  solution  1.40  to  160  parts  of  alcohol  of 
0.815  specific  gravity. 

The  larger  or  smaller  content  of  stearoptene  in  rose 
oil  seems  to  be  dependent  on  climatic  conditions,  it 
having  been  remarked  that  the  quantity  is  the  greater 

*  This,  however,  applies  only  to  Bulgarian  oil ;  French  and 
Saxon  rose  oils  have  a  greenish  color. 


VOLATILE    OILS    USED   IN   PERFUMERY.  139 

the  lower  the  temperature  of  the  region.  The  oil  from 
the  coldest  and  highest  regions  of  the  Balkan  is  richer 
in  stearoptene  than  that  from  the  lower  and  warmer 
regions. 

The  genuineness  of  rose  oil  is  generally  judged  by  its 
odor,  its  capacity  of  congealing,  and  the  manner  of  its 
crystallization.  The  odor  is  by  all  means  the  most  re- 
liable criterion,  but  requires  much  experience,  and  espe- 
cially reliable  pure  standard  samples  for  comparison. 
The  capacity  of  congealing  at  certain  conditions  of  tem- 
perature, is,  to  be  sure,  also  a  requirement  of  genuine 
rose  oil,  but,  as  previously  mentioned,  this  property 
varies  very  much,  and  is  subject  to  different  influences,  so 
that  a  fixed  standard  at  which  pure  rose  oil  must  congeal 
cannot  be  established.  Attention  must,  however,  be 
called  to  the  fact  that  the  quality  of  a  rose  oil  does  by 
no  means  rise  with  its  greater  capacity  to  congeal,  since 
only  the  liquid  oxyginated  portion  possesses  odor. 

Schimmel  &  Co.  bring  at  present  into  commerce  a 
liquid  rose  oil  freed  from  stearoptene  which  can  be 
highly  recommended  for  finer  alcoholic  perfumes.  It 
remains  fluid  at  32°  F.,  but  in  a  cold  mixture  congeals 
to  a  gelatinous  mass,  and  hence  is  not  absolutely  free 
from  stearoptene.  It  has  an  extremely  fine  and  power- 
ful odor,  and  when  dissolved  in  alcohol  does  not  give 
the  disagreeable  crystalline  separations  of  the  ordinary 
rose  oil,  which  produce  a  disturbing  effect,  especially  in 
the  preparation  of  extracts. 

For  the  insulation  and  determination  of  the  stearop- 
tene in  rose  oil,  Schimmel  &  Co.  proceed  as  follows : 
Heat  50  grammes  of  oil  together  with  500  grammes  of 
75  per  cent,  alcohol  to  from  158°  to  176°  F.  In  cool- 


140  MANUFACTURE   OF   PERFUMERY. 

ing,  the  stearoptene  separates  nearly  quantitatively. 
Separate  it  from  the  fluid,  treat  it  again  in  the  same 
manner  with  200  grammes  of  75  per  cent,  alcohol,  and 
repeat  the  operation  until  the  stearoptene  is  entirely  free 
from  odor.  Two  treatments  of  the  crude  stearopteue 
are  generally  sufficient.  In  this  manner  Schimmel  & 
Co.  obtained  from  1887  German  rose  oil  32J  per  cent, 
stearoptene,  from  1888  German  rose  oil  34  per  cent., 
from  1887  Turkish  rose  oil  12  to  13  per  cent.,  and  from 
1888  Turkish  rose  oil  14  per  cent. 

It  is  evident  that  such  a  valuable  product  as  rose  oil 
is  much  subjected  to  adulteration,  it  being  even  said 
that  oils  containing  scarcely  10  per  cent,  of  genuine  rose 
oil  occur  in  the  market.  The  chief  adulterant  used  by 
the  Bulgarians  is  the  so-called  geranium  oil,  but  actually 
ginger-grass  oil  derived  from  India,  which  is  brought 
by  way  of  Arabia  to  Constantinople,  and  prepared  for  the 
purpose  of  adulterating  rose  oil  by  treatment  with  lemon 
juice  and  bleaching  in  the  sun.  The  sophistication  is 
generally  effected  by  sprinkling  the  ginger-grass  oil 
thus  prepared  upon  the  rose  leaves  before  distilling. 
The  general  characters  of  this  oil  are  so  similar  to  those 
of  rose  oil  that  detection,  when  the  adulteration  is  kept 
within  certain  limits,  is  very  difficult,  so  that  during  the 
distilling  time  large  buyers  and  exporters  of  rose  oil  are 
forced  to  pay,  besides  their  other  officers  in  Kazanlik, 
confidential  native  agents  who  constantly  move  around 
in  the  distilling  regions  and  report  where  distillation  has 
been  carried  on  honestly,  and  where  the  ginger-grass  oil 
bottle  has  been  seen.  However,  the  prepared  ginger- 
grass  oil  is  frequently  not  even  distilled  with  the  rose 
leaves,  but  simply  mixed  with  the  finished  rose  oil. 


VOLATILE   OILS   USED   IN   PERFUMERY.  141 

Whether  a  rose  oil  is  free  from  geranium  or  ginger- 
grass  oil  is  tested  in  Bulgaria,  according  to  Christo 
Christoff,  by  the  freezing  method,  which  is,  however, 
unreliable.  It  is  based  upon  the  fact  that  an  addition 
of  geranium  oil  reduces  the  congealing  point  of  rose  oil. 
Pure  Bulgarian  rose  oil  congeals  at  from  63.5°  to  68° 
F. ;  by  the  addition  of  geranium  oil,  the  same  oil  con- 
geals at  61.25°,  59°,  5(5.75°,  or  at  a  still  lower  tempera- 
ture, according  to  the  quantity  added.  The  buyer  when 
purchasing  oil  carries  with  him  two  basins,  one  contain- 
ing hot  and  the  other  cold  water,  which  he  mixes  in 
order  to  obtain  a  fixed  temperature,  the  operation  being 
controlled  by  a  Reaumur  thermometer.  In  the  water 
thus  prepared  he  completely  submerges  a  20  gramme 
flask  containing  1 5  grammes  of  the  oil  to  be  tested.  In 
three  minutes,  needle-like  crystals  of  the  separating 
stearoptene  must  appear,  and  in  ten  minutes  crystalliza- 
tion must  be  complete.  According  to  the  congealing 
point  thus  established,  the  product  is  paid  for.  Oil 
congealing  below  59°  F.  being  evidently  adulterated  is 
rejected  and  bargained  for  at  a  special  price. 

Many  attempts  have  been  made  to  fraudulently  make 
this  congelation  appear  within  the  limits  of  temperature 
permitted,  paraffine  which  dissolves  well  in  rose  oil  being 
formerly  frequently  added.  In  such  case  the  oil  may 
congeal  at  from  65.75°  to  68°  F.,  but  the  crystals  are 
opaque,  dirty  yellow,  and  dissolve  to  a  turbid  paste 
which  collects  on  the  surface.  The  simplest  method  is 
to  distil  white  roses  with  the  red.  The  resulting  pro- 
duct has  not  as  fine  an  odor  as  that  from  red  roses 
alone,  but  is  richer  in  stearoptene.  Such  oil,  which,  un- 
adulterated, congeals  perhaps  at  68°  F.,  can  by  the  addi- 


142  MANUFACTURE   OF    PERFUMERY. 

tion  of  geranium  oil  be  reduced  to  from  63.5°  to  65.75° 
F.,  thus  keeping  within  the  limits  permitted. 

Numerous  attempts  have  been  made  to  find  a  rapid 
and  sure  way  for  the  detection  of  geranium  oil  in  rose 
oil,  but  thus  far  in  vain.  Attention  must  also  be  drawn 
to  the  fact  that  the  adulterant  is  frequently  itself  adul- 
terated with  oil  of  turpentine  before  being  sold  to  the 
distillers  of  rose  oil. 

Besides  the  above-mentioned  ginger-grass  oil,  the 
actual  geranium  oils  from  Pelargonium  odoratisximum 
and  P.  roseum,  as  well  as  rose-wood  oil,  sandal-wood 
oil,  spermaceti,  paraffine,  and  fat  oils  have  been  nien- 
tioned  as  adulterants  of  rose  oil.  The  geranium  oils 
having  a  by-odor  of  lemon  oil,  by  which  their  presence 
could  be  readily  detected  are  not  suitable  for  the  purpose. 
Neither  can  rose-wood  or  sandal-wood  oils  be  used,  or 
at  least  such  adulteration  would  be  so  clumsy  as  to  be 
immediately  recognized.  Attempts  to  adulterate  rose 
oil  by  the  addition  of  a  fat  crystal lizable  body  together 
with  another  volatile  oil  fail  on  account  of  the  character- 
istic properties  of  rose  oil  stearoptene,  which  resembles  no 
other  body  at  present  known.  While  rose  oil  stearop- 
tene is'  lighter  than  elseoptene  and  entirely  volatile,  sper- 
maceti possesses  essentially  different  qualities.  It  does 
not  form  such  long  and  specifically  light  crystals  as 
rose  oil  stearoptene;  hence  it  readily  separates  on  the 
bottom  and  on  shaking  exhibits  a  peculiar  iridescent 
loamy  formation.  Furthermore  it  melts  at  122°  F., 
and  not  being  volatile,  leaves,  on  heating,  a  greasy  stain 
upon  paper,  while  the  stearoptene  melts  at  95°  F.  and, 
on  heating,  volatilizes  completely  without  leaving  a 
greasy  stain  behind. 


VOLATILE   OILS   USED   IN   PERFUMERY.  14o 

If  a  rose  oil  is  to  be  tested,  expose  the  bottle  contain- 
ing the  oil  to  a  moderate  heat  until  the  contents  are  en- 
tirely liquid ;  then  gently  shake  the  bottle  in  order  to 
bring  about  an  intimate  mixture  of  elseoptene  and  stear- 
optene.  Now  pour  some  of  the  oil  into  a  cylindrical 
glass  flask  of  20  to  40  cubic  centimeters'  capacity  and 
allow  it  to  congeal ;  then,  while  heating  in  the  hand, 
observe  how  the  rigid  portions  act  in  liquefying.  These 
rigid,  crystalline  portions  should  be  transparently  clear 
and,  being  lighter  than  the  fluid  portion,  float,  while 
liquefying,  in  the  upper  layer  of  the  fluid.  Hence,  if 
now  the  fluid  be  again  allowed  to  congeal,  the  crystals 
should  appear  within  the  upper  half  of  the  oil.  The 
above-mentioned  volatile  oils  partially  lack  the  prop- 
erty of  separating  a  stearoptene  in  crystals  at  from 
33.8°  to  50°  F.,  and  though  they  may  have  a  rose 
odor,  it  is  not  the  mild,  fragrant  odor  of  genuine  rose 
oil.  To  recognize  the  latter,  Guibourt  makes  use  of 
pure  concentrated  sulphuric  acid.  Stir  together  in  a 
watch-crystal  an  equal  number  of  drops  of  the  oil  and 
of  the  acid ;  pure  rose  oil  preserves  its  characteristic 
odor,  while  the  foreign  oils  exhibit  a  disagreeable  odor 
even  when  mixed  with  genuine  rose  oil. 

Schimmel  &  Co.  give  a  method  for  an  approximate 
quantitative  determination  of  spermaceti  in  rose  oil: 
Boil  3  to  5  grammes  of  stearoptene,  separated  in  the 
manner  above  given,  with  20  to  25  grammes  of  5  per- 
cent, alcoholic  potash  lye  for  5  to  6  hours ;  then  evapo- 
rate the  alcohol  and  compound  the  residue  with  hot 
water.  In  cooling,  the  greater  portion  of  the  stearop- 
tene separates  in  a  crystalline  mass  upon  the  surface. 
Now  pour  off  the  alkaline  fluid,  wash  the  stearoptene 


144  MANUFACTURE   OF   PERFUMERY. 

with  cold  water,  then  melt  it  again  in  hot  water,  allow 
it  to  cool,  pour  off  the  water,  and  repeat  the  same  opera- 
tions until  the  wash-water  is  neutral.  The  combined 
aqueous  fluids  are  twice  shaken  with  ether  to  remove  any 
stearoptene  suspended  in  them.  The  alcoholic  lye  sepa- 
rated from  the  ether  is  acidulated  with  dilute  sulphuric 
acid  and  again  extracted  with  ether.  After  evapora- 
tion no  residue  (fatty  acids)  should  remain.  To  control 
the  experiment  weigh  the  regained  stearoptene  dried  at 
194°  F.,  adding,  of  course,  the  ether  used  for  extracting 
the  alkaline  fluid.  There  will  be  a  small  loss,  since 
small  quantities  of  stearoptene  always  evaporate  in 
drying. 

Rosemary  oil  (oleum  rosemarini  or  ol.  anthos)  is  obtained 
in  Southern  Europe,  especially  in  Southern  France,  Dal- 
matia  and  Northern  Italy,  by  distillation  from  the  flow- 
ering rosemary,  Rosmarinus  officinalis,  natural  order 
Labiatce.  It  is,  when  fresh,  limpid,  colorless,  or  yellow- 
ish, of  a  penetrating,  camphor-like  odor  and  taste,  and 
specific  gravity  0.880  to  0.915.  By  age  it  becomes 
darker  and  thickly-fluid.  The  French  rosemary  oil  is 
the  best  and  most  expensive.  It  is  distinguished  from 
the  Italian  oil  by  its  much  more  pleasant  odor.  Pure 
French  rosemary  oil  dissolves  in  an  equal  part  of  90 
per  cent,  alcohol,  while  the  Italian  product  requires 
2  to  3  parts.  The  cheaper  rosemary  oils  are  generally 
adulterated  with  oil  of  turpentine,  which  is  recognized 
by  the  oil  not  dissolving  in  the  above-mentioned  pro- 
portion in  alcohol,  as  well  as  by  the  iodine  test.  Rose- 
mary oil  does  not  detonate  with  iodine,  but  simply  dis- 
solves with  heating  and  perhaps  the  emission  of  vapors- 


VOLATILE   OILS   USED   IN    PERFUMERY.  145 

The  French  rosemary  oil  forms  one  of  the  ingredients 
of  eau  de  Cologne  and  is  used  in  other  perfumery. 

Rosewood  oil  or  rhodium  oil  (oleum  ligni  rhodii),  is  ob- 
tained by  distillation  from  the  wood  of  the  root  and 
lower  trunk  of  Convolvulus  scopiarius  and  C.floridas,L., 
two  plants  indigenous  to  the  Canaries.  The  waste  fall- 
ing off  in  the  manufacture  of  rosewood  beads  is  chiefly 
used  for  the  purpose.  The  oil  is  of  a  pale  yellow  color 
becoming  brown  by  age.  It  has  a  pleasant  odor  resem- 
bling in  some  slight  degree  the  fragrance  of  the  rose.  It 
is  sometimes  used  in  cheap  perfumery  as  a  substitute 
for  rose  oil. 

Sandal-wood  oil  (oleum  ligni  sandali)  is  distilled  from 
the  white  West  Indian  or  dark  yellow  East  Indian  san- 
dal-wood (Santalum  myrtifolium).  For  the  purpose  of 
distillation  the  wood  is  rasped  as  finely  as  possible.  The 
oil  obtained  from  the  East  Indian  wood  is  the  better 
and  more  valuable.  It  has  a  dark  yellow  to  brown  color 
and  a  pleasant  intense,  rose-like  odor,  while  the  West 
Indian  oil  is  pale  yellow  and  of  a  less  agreeable  odor. 
Both  oils  are  very  thickly-fluid.  The  quality  and  value 
of  sandal-wood  oil  are  best  judged  by  the  odor,  an 
adulteration  with  cedar  oil  being  readily  detected  thereby. 

Sassafras  oil  (oleum  ligni  sassafras),  from  the  bruised 
root  of  the  sassafras  tree,  Sassafras  officinale,  natural 
order  Lauracece.  Sassafras  is  one  of  the  most  widely 
distributed  trees  of  North  America,  being  found  in 
Canada,  in  all  of  the  United  States,  east  of  the  prairies, 
beyond  the  Mississippi,  and  in  Mexico.  The  largest 
amount  of  oil  distilled  is  within  sixty  miles  of  Baltimore, 
Md.,  which  is  the  principal  depot  for  its  commerce. 

Oil  of  sassafras   varies  in   color   from   colorless   to 
10 


146  MANUFACTURE   OF   PERFUMERY. 

yellow  and  red.  Its  taste  is  pungent  and  aromatic, 
being  agreeable  to  most  persons.  It  has  a  pleasant 
odor  resembling  that  of  fennel,  and  is  heavier  than 
water,  its  specific  gravity  being  1.08  to  1.09.  It  is 
soluble  in  4  to  5  parts  of  alcohol  of  0.85  specific  gravity, 
and  consists  of  a  mixture  of  various  oils,  among  which 
is  safrene  (C10H16),  a  dextrorotatory  terpene  which  boils 
between  311°  and  314.6°  F.  By  strongly  cooling  in  a 
cold  mixture,  safrol,  a  crystallizing  stearoptene  of  the 
composition  C]0H10O2,  is  separated.  Safrol  is  the  chief 
constituent  of  sassafras  oil.  It  is  obtained  in  abundance 
by  cooling,  at  a  temperature  of  13°  F.,  the  portion 
boiling  between  442.4°  and  455°  F.  It  melts  at  46.4° 
F.,  and  at  a  medium  temperature  forms  a  colorless  clear 
oil  of  pungent  taste,  characteristic  odor,  and  specific 
gravity  1.104.  When  the  crystals  have  been  heated  to 
above  158°  F.,  they  congeal  only  after  remaining  for 
weeks  at  a  temperature  below  32°  F.,  but  on  being 
melted  at  68°  F.,  the  fluid  mass  again  congeals  readily 
on  cooling.  The  safrol  is  neutral,  optically  inactive, 
boils  at  449.6°  F.,  and  is  soluble  in  alcohol  and  ether. 
Sassafras  oil  is  said  to  be  frequently  adulterated  with 
oil  of  turpentine,  which  is,  however,  readily  detected  by 
the  energetic  reaction  and  by  distilling  a  sample  of  the 
suspected  oil. 

Safrol  is  very  suitable  for  perfuming  ordinary  soaps. 
It  has  in  a  still  higher  degree  than  camphor  oil  the 
property  of  removing  the  disagreeable  odor  of  some  fats, 
while  at  the  same  time  it  imparts  to  the  soaps  an 
aromatic,  refreshing  odor.  As  a  rule  8  to  11  ozs.  are 
used  for  220  Ibs.  of  soap ;  but  if  it  shall  at  the  same 
itime  serve  for  removing  the  disagreeable  odor  of  low 


VOLATILE   OILS   USED   IN   PERFUMERY.          147 

quality  fats,  especially  those  extracted  with  bisulphide 
of  carbon  or  benzine,  it  is  advisable  to  take  2.2  Ibs.,  or 
still  better,  4.4  Ibs.  for  220  Ibs.  of  soap.  In  this  case  the 
safrol  should  be  added  to  the  fat  after  melting  and  before 
saponification  and  thoroughly  mixed  with  it  by  stirring. 
An  excellent  perfume  for  ordinary  soaps  is  a  mixture  of 
safrol  and  citronella  oil,  it  being  at  any  rate  preferable 
to  oil  of  mirbane. 

The  standard  of  value  for  safrol  is  its  specific  gravity, 
which  should  not  be  below  1.104  at  59°  F.  Specifically 
lighter  kinds  contain  camphor  oil  and  other  impurities. 

Thyme  oil  is  obtained  in  Southern  France  and  Spain 
by  distillation  from  the  flowering  thyme,  Thymus  vul- 
garisj  L.  It  is  greenish-yellow  to  red  (red  thyme  oil, 
oleum  thymi  rubrum\  but  by  rectification  becomes  color- 
less (white  thyme  oil,  oleum  thymi  album).  Both  oils 
are  quite  limpid  and  possess  a  strong  thyme  odor.  The 
specific  gravity  of  the  red  oil  is  0.91  to  0.94,  and  that 
of  the  rectified  oil  0.87  to  0.89.  The  oil  prepared  from 
the  fresh  plant  shows,  as  a  rule,  a  higher  specific  gravity 
than  that  from  the  dried  plant.  Thyme  oil  consists 
essentially  of  thymene  (C10H16)  besides  some  cymene 
(C10H14)  and  thymol  (C10H]4O),  the  latter  forming  an 
essential  constitutent  of  the  oil.  Oils  from  which  the 
thymol  has  been  withdrawn  occur  in  commerce.  Pure 
thyme  oil  dissolves  clear  in  every  proportion  in  90  per 
cent,  alcohol ;  if  such  is  not  the  case,  adulteration  with 
oil  of  turpentine  is  probable. 

The  oil  distilled  from  the  field  thyme,  Thymus  serpyl- 
lumy  L.}  is  limpid,  yellowish  to  gold  yellow,  and  of  spe- 
cific gravity  0.89  to  0.91.  Old  oil  is  red  or  brown  and 
no  longer  limpid.  Good  oil  is  soluble  in  every  proper- 


148  MANUFACTURE   OF   PERFUMERY. 

tion  in  90  per  cent,  alcohol  and  emits  only  slight  vapors 
when  brought  in  contact  with  iodine.  It  consists  largely 
of  thymene  and  cymene,  and  contains  a  few  per  cent,  of 
phenol -like  bodies. 

Turpentine,  oil  of. — Under  the  general  name  "  oil  of 
turpentine"  are  comprised  the  volatile  oils  obtained  by 
distillation  from  the  resins  or  other  portions  of  different 
species  of  the  pine.  There  is  a  large  number  of  these 
oils,  the  most  important  ones  of  which  shall  here  be  men- 
tioned, though  but  a  few  are  of  interest  to  the  perfumer. 

Austrian  oil  of  turpentine,  from  Pinus  laricio,  Poir. — 
It  is  colorless  or  yellowish,  transparent ;  specific  gravity, 
0.864;  boiling  point,  311°  to  314°  F. ;  turns  polarized 
light  to  the  left ;  soluble  in  6  parts  90  per  cent,  alcohol. 
"When  rectified  it  has  a  specific  gravity  of  0.862,  and  is 
soluble  in  7  parts  of  90  per  cent,  alcohol. 

German  oil  of  turpentine,  from  Pinus  sylvestris,  P. 
abies,  P.  vulgaris,  P.  pieea,  and  P.  rotundata,  resembles 
the  former ;  specific  gravity,  0.860  to  0.870 ;  boiling- 
point,  311°  to  320°  F.;  turns  polarized  light  to  the 
left.  When  rectified  it  is  soluble  in  7  parts  of  90  per 
cent,  alcohol. 

French  oil  of  turpentine,  from  French  turpentine  of 
Pinus  maritima. — It  is  colorless  or  faint  yellowish; 
specific  gravity,  0.860;  boiling  point,  313°  to  315° 
F. ;  turns  polarized  light  to  the  left ;  odor  peculiar  ; 
taste  burning.  With  7  parts  of  90  per  cent,  alcohol  it 
gives  a  clear  solution. 

Venetian  oil  of  turpentine,  from  Venice  turpentine  of 
Larix  decidua,  Mill.,  is  laevorotatory  and  resembles 
the  preceding,  but  has  a  more  agreeable  odor.  Venice 


VOLATILE   OILS   USED   IX   PERFUMERY.  149 

turpentine  is  jnostly  obtained  in  Southern  Tyrol  and  in 
Piedmont,  and  yields  18  to  25  per  cent,  of  oil. 

American  oil  of  turpentine,  from  American  turpentine 
of  Pinus  australis,  Mich.,  and  P.  Taeda,  L. — It  resembles 
French  turpentine,  but  turns  polarized  light  to  the  right. 
Specific  gravity,  0.864;  boiling  point,  302°  to  312.8°  F. 

Pine  oil  (oleum  abietis)  is  obtained  by  distilling  with 
water  the  leaves  or  green  cones  of  Pinus  picea,  L.,  Abies 
pectinata,  D.  C.  Its  odor  is  much  finer  than  that  of  or- 
dinary oil  of  turpentine.  It  is  soluble  in  7  parts  of  90 
per  cent,  alcohol. 

Dwarf  pine  oil,  Krummhoh  or.  Latschenoel  (oleum  pini 
pumilionis),  is  obtained  by  distilling  the  young  tops  and 
cones  of  Pinus  pumilio  with  water.  It  has  an  agreeable 
odor,  reminding  one  of  juniper;  specific  gravity,  0.865  ; 
boiling,  point,  338°  F.  The  oil  is  laevorotatory  and 
soluble  in  12  to  15  parts  of  90  per  cent,  alcohol. 

Pine-leaf  oil  is  obtained  by  distilling  the  leaves  of 
Pinus  sylvestris  or  P.  abies  by  means  of  steam.  It  is 
dextrorotatory ;  has  a  fine  aromatic  odor ;  boiling  point, 
320°  F. ;  specific  gravity,  0.875  to  0.876. 

Tem,plin  oil  (Kienoel)  (oleum  pini,  ol.  templinum)  is  ob- 
tained chiefly  in  some  sections  of  Switzerland  and  Tyrol 
by  distilling  the  wood,  branches,  leaves,  cones,  etc.,  with 
water.  It  has  a  lemon-like  odor  ;  specific  gravity,  0.860 
to  0.880 ;  boiling  point,  320°  to  327°  F.,  and  is  laevora- 
tatory. 

Balsam-pine  oil  (oleum  abietis  canadensis)  is  obtained 
in  Canada  from  the  branches  of  Abies  bahamea,  D.  C. 
It  has  a  slightly  yellowish  color,  a  very  agreeable  and 
refreshing  odor;  specific  gravity,  0.902;  boiling  point 


150  MANUFACTURE   OF   PERFUMERY. 

at  320°  to  330.8°  F.,  and  turns  polarized  light  to  the 
right. 

Of  the  different  varieties  of  oil  of  turpentine  men- 
tioned only  pine  oil  and  dwarf  pine  oil  are  used  in 
perfumery. 

Oils  of  turpentine  must  be  kept  carefully  protected 
from  light  and  air.  When  badly  kept  they  gradually 
become  resinous  with  formation  of  formic  and  acetic 
acids.  When  exposed  to  the  air  oil  of  turpentine  absorbs 
ozone ;  with  iodine  it  detonates  violently.  When  brought 
in  contact  with  a  mixture  of  concentrated  sulphuric  acid 
and  nitric  acid  it  ignites. 

Verbena,  oil  of,  from  the  lemon  verbena,  Aloysia  citrio- 
dora,  Hooker.  The  plant  is  cultivated  in  the  gardens 
of  Grasse.  The  oil  is  extracted  from  the  leaves  by  dis- 
tillation in  August,  but  on  account  of  its  high  price  is 
almost  out  of  market,  it  being  everywhere  substituted 
by  the  oil  of  lemon  grass,  Andropogon  citratus. 

Violet,  oil  of. — The  perfume  of  the  violet,  Viola  odo- 
rata,  natural  order  Violacece,  is  due  to  a  volatile  oil  of 
a  green  color  and  of  such  a  penetrating  odor  as  to  cause 
headache ;  it  acquires  the  agreeable  odor  of  the  violet 
only  by  strong  dilution.  The  violet  farms  from  whence 
the  flowers  are  procured  for  the  production  of  the  oil, 
are  very  extensive  at  Nice  and  in  the  neighborhood  of 
Florence.  The  oil  is  only  obtained  by  the  absorption 
process,  all  other  methods  to  procure  it  having  failed  up 
to  this  time.  It  is  scarcely  obtainable  in  commerce,  as 
the  French  manufacturers,  who  prepare  the  greater  part 
of  it,  use  the  very  small  yield  for  manufacturing  fine 
perfumery. 

Vitivert  or  vetiver  oil  (oelum  iva  ranchusa)  from  the 


VOLATILE   OILS    USED   IN   PERFUMERY.  151 

so-called  cuscus,  the  rhizome  of  an  Indian  grass,  Ana- 
thereum  muricatum.  The  oil  is  obtained  by  distillation, 
either  from  the  fresh  root  in  India,  or  from  the  imported 
dried  root  in  Europe.  The  yield  is  very  small.  The  oil 
is  thickly-fluid,  of  a  red-brown  color,  and  has  an  intense, 
but  agreeable  odor  very  much  like  that  of  oil  of  orris 
root.  Like  the  latter,  it  possesses  the  valuable  property 
of  diffusing  a  lasting  perfume.  Its  value  can  only  be 
judged  by  the  odor,  and  hence  it  should  only  be  pur- 
chased from  a  thoroughly  reliable  firm. 

Wintergreen  oil  (oleum  gaultherice)  is  obtained  by  dis- 
tillation from  the  wintergreen,  Gaultheria  proeumbens, 
a  plant  common  in  North  America.  It  is  thickly  fluid, 
yellowish  green  to  gold  yellow,  of  a  sweetish,  aromatic, 
pungent  taste  and  penetrating,  narcotic  odor,  which 
becomes  agreeable  only  by  strongly  diluting  the  oil. 
By  rectification  the  oil  becomes  entirely  colorless.  Its 
specific  gravity  is  1.170  to  1.190  (according  to  Glad- 
stone, 1.142).  It  is  sparingly  soluble  in  water,  but 
readily  so  in  alcohol,  ether,  chloroform,  etc.  The  aqueous 
or  dilute  alcoholic  solution  is  colored  deep  violet  by 
ferric  chloride. 

Wintergreen  oil  boils  at  392°  F.  ;  the  boiling  point, 
however,  soon  rises  to  431.6°  F.,  when  it  remains  con- 
stant. Between  392°  and  428°  F.  a  'terpene  (C10H16) 
constituting  about  TV  °f  tlie  oil  distils  off;  the  rest  corre- 
sponds to  the  composition  C8H8O3;  it  is  methyl  salicy- 


Wintergreen  oil  is  also  obtained  by  distillation  from 
Gaultheria  punctata  and  Gaultheria  leucocarpa.  An 
oil,  very  closely  resembling  wintergreen  oil,  is  in  this 


152  MANUFACTURE   OF   PERFUMERY. 

country  distilled  from  the  young  shoots  of  the  American 
species  of  birch,  Betula  lenta,  variously  called  sweet 
birch,  black  birch,  cherry  birch,  and  mountain  mahogany. 
According  to  Procter,  the  oil  does  not  exist  in  the  birch 
but  is  formed  by  the  action  of  the  water  upon  an  odor- 
less body,  called  gaultherin,  which  is  converted  into 
volatile  oil  by  the  reaction  of  another  substance  analo- 
gous to  emulsin.  Hence  the  formation  of  oil  is  similar 
to  that  of  oil  of  bitter  almonds.  To  obtain  the  oil  from 
Betttla  lenta,  the  material  is  chopped  up  and  placed  in 
the  still,  as  much  as  this  will  hold,  a  sufficient  quantity  of 
water  being  then  added  to  fill  the  still  about  one-third  full. 
The  still  is  generally  permitted  to  remain  in  this  condi- 
tion over  night,  a  fire  is  made  in  the  morning  and  dis- 
tillation proceeds  nicely.  The  manufacture  of  birch 
oil  is  carried  on  at  quite  a  large  scale  by  Mr.  A.  H. 
Seidle,  of  Middleport,  Schuylkill  County,  Pa. 

.Methyl  salicylate  may  also  be  artificially  prepared  by 
heating  a  mixture  of  methyl  alcohol,  sulphuric  acid  and 
salicylic  acid  whereby  at  first  methyl-sulphuric  acid  is 
formed  which  is  then  converted  into  methyl  ether  and 
sulphuric  acid  :  — 

(OH  fOCH3 

S02  1         +  CH3OH  =  S02  1  +  H20 

(OH  (OH 

(OCH3  (OH 

+  c6nJ 

(COOH 


co.  ocH 


(OH 
SOJOH. 

( 


Etherification  succeeds  without  difficulty,  it  being  suffi- 
cient to  heat  the  mixture  for  some  time  and  then  pour 


VOLATILE   OILS   USED   IN   PERFUMERY.  153 

it  into  water  whereby  the  ether  separates  as  ^a.  heavy 
layer  of  oil.  After  washing  with  water  distil  ijjj^  direct 
current  of  steam.  The  ether  thus  obtaine^i^is  clear 
as  water  and,  as  regards  its  other  properties/ 'does  not 
differ  from  the  naturally  occurring  oil.  This  artificial 
wintergreen  oil  is  now  much  used  for  perfuming 
purposes. 

Wintergreen  oil  is  said  to  be  frequently  adulterated 
with  sassafras  oil  which  is  also  specifically  heavier  than 
water.  If,  according  to  Hayer,  5  drops  of  the  oil  in  a 
test-tube  be  mixed  with  10  drops  of  crude  concentrated 
nitric  acid,  a  deep  blood-red  fluid  results  in  one  minute 
if  oil  of  sassafras  is  present.  In  the  course  of  another 
minute,  the  fluid  separates  a  brown  resinous  mass.  Pure 
oil,  on  the  other  hand,  is  but  little  altered. 

According  to  P.  MacEwan  the  adulteration  of  winter- 
green  oil  with  camphor  oil  is  carried  on  at  a  large  scale. 
The  presence  of  camphor  oil  may  be  recognized  by  the 
specific  gravity,  0.900,  while  that  of  pure  wintergreen 
oil  is,  on  an  average,  1.18.  A  crude  test — which  is, 
however,  readily  executed — is  as  follows :  Stir  a  few 
drops  of  the  suspected  oil  in  water.  If  pure,  the  oil 
in  a  few  seconds  sinks  to  the  bottom,  but  if  it  contains 
camphor  oil  several  minutes  elapse  before  it  deposits, 
and  there  is  time  to  observe  that  the  particles  of  oil 
assume  different  forms,  but  not  a  globular  one. 

Ylang-Ylang  oil  (oleum  unonce)  is  obtained  by  dis- 
tilling the  flowers  of  Unona  odoratissima,  indigenous  to 
the  Philippine  Islands,  the  Straits  of  Malacca,  and  In- 
dian Archipelago.  The  oil  is  colorless  to  yellowish. 
Its  color  and  specific  gravity,  however,,  vary  very  much, 
according  to  the  season  of  the  year  in  which  it  is  pre- 


154  MANUFACTURE   OF   PERFUMERY. 

pared,  the  oil  distilled  in  the  cold  season  being  more 
colorless  and  limpid  than  that  produced  in  the  warm 
season.  The  oil  has  an  exquisite  odor,  partaking  of  the 
jasmine  and  the  lilac,  and  is  used  in  the  manufacture  of 
the  finest  perfumery.  Various  kinds  are  found  in  com- 
merce, that  marked  "  Sartorius"  being  preferred. 

The  difference  in  quality  of  the  many  kinds  of  oil 
found  in  commerce  is  chiefly  due  to  the  method  of  pre- 
paration and  the  selection  of  the  flowers,  which  possess 
the  finest  aroma  when  freshly  gathered.  In  distilling, 
the  first  light  volatile  portions  passing  over  have  an 
incomparable  perfume,  while  the  oil  distilling  over  later 
on  possesses  an  insipid  odor.  Hence  the  manufacturer, 
who  only  obtains  the  first  portions,  will  furnish  the 
finest  quality  of  oil,  and  it  is  this  method  of  preparation 
which  has  gained  the  "Sartorius"  oil  its  high  reputation. 
While  according  to  Schimmel  &  Co.'s  report,  220  Ibs.  of 
fresh  ylang-ylang  flowers  yield  2.64  Ibs.  of  oil,  Sartorius 
for  the  preparation  of  his  fine  oil  distils  off  only  about 
half  the  quantity. 

Conanga  oil  is  a  poorer  quality  of  ylang-ylang  oil, 
obtained  from  the  same  plant.  Two  varieties  are  dis- 
tinguished in  commerce,  viz  :  the  Javanese  and  Indian. 
The  Java  oil  is  the  best,  and  may  be  used  where 
ordinary  qualities  of  ylang-ylang  oil  will  do.  According 
to  Schimmel  &  Co.'s  report  the  cheaper  Indian  oil  is 
very  resistant  and  durable  in  soaps,  especially  when 
combined  with  licari  or  linaloe  oil. 


RESINS   AND   BALSAMS.  155 


CHAPTER  V. 

RESINS   AND  BALSAMS. 

THE  term  resins  is  applied  to  certain  organic  sub- 
stances which  are  very  closely  related  to  volatile  oils,  in 
so  far  as  many  of  them  are  formed  from  the  latter  by 
oxidation.  As  previously  mentioned,  by  exposure  to 
the  atmospheric  air  all  volatile  oils  undergo  a  change, 
whereby  they  thicken  and  are  finally  converted  into 
substances  possessing  the  character  of  resins.  In  nature 
most  resins  also  occur  mixed  with  volatile  oils. 

The  elementary  constituents  of  resins  are  carbon, 
hydrogen,  and  oxygen  ;  but,  generally  speaking,  they 
are  poor  in  oxygen  and  rich  in  carbon.  Chemically 
they  behave  like  weak  acids,  their  solutions  frequently 
reddening  litmus  and  sometimes  expelling,  on  boiling, 
the  carbonic  acid  from  alkaline  carbonates. 

Independent  of  a  possible  content  of  volatile  oil, 
every  naturally  occurring  resin  consists  of  several  resins 
which,  however,  can,  as  a  rule,  be  separated  only  with 
difficulty. 

The  resins  are  generally  divided  into  hard  resins,  soft 
resins  or  balsams,  and  gum-resins.  The  hard  resins  are, 
at  the  ordinary  temperature,  solid,  hard,  and  brittle,  can 
be  readily  pulverized,  and  contain  little  or  no  volatile 
oil.  The  soft  resins  or  balsams  are  kneadable,  and 
sometimes  even  semi-fluid ;  they  represent  solutions  of 
resins  in  volatile  oils,  or  a  mixture  of  volatile  oil  and 


156  MANUFACTURE   OF   PERFUMERY. 

resin.  On  exposure  to  the  air  they  are  changed  by  the 
volatile  oil  suffering  oxidation,  they  becoming  then  more 
or  less  hard,  and  may  be  converted  into  actual  resins. 
The  gum-resins  are  mixtures  of  vegetable  gum,  resin, 
and  volatile  oils,  and  are  obtained  by  inspissation  of  the 
milky  juice  of  several  plants.  When  triturated  with 
water  they  yield  a  milky,  turbid  fluid,  and  dissolve 
only  partially  in  alcohol. 

The  resins  are  widely  diffused  in  the  vegetable  king- 
dom, there  being  scarcely  a  plant  which  does  not  contain 
resin  in  one  form  or  another.  Some  families  of  plants 
and  organs  of  plants  are,  however,  distinguished  by 
their  special  wealth  of  resins.  The  resins  are,  as  a  rule, 
secreted  simultaneously  with  volatile  oils  in  special 
reservoirs,  from  which  they  flow  out  naturally  at  certain 
periods,  or  are  obtained  by  incisions  made  in  the  plants. 
A  few  bodies  of  the  character  of  resins  also  occur  in  the 
animal  kingdom,  and  a  series  of  them,  the  fossil  resins, 
are  generally  classed  in  the  mineral  kingdom,  though 
most  of  them  are  very  likely  derived  from  plants.  Some 
resins,  such  as  the  aldehyde  resins,  etc.,  are  purely  arti- 
ficial products. 

Of  the  hard  resins,  benzoin  alone  is  used  in  per- 
fumery ;  of  the  balsams,  Peru  balsam,  Tolu  balsam,  and 
storax  balsam ;  and  of  the  gum-resins,  the  myrrh. 

Benzoin  is  exclusively  obtained  from  Styrax  ben- 
zoin, Dry  and  (Benzoine  officinale,  Ho.yne\  a  tree  which 
grows  in  Java,  Sumatra,  and  Siam.  The  bark  of  the 
tree  is  slit  to  allow  a  fluid  to  flow  out,  which  concretes 
on  the  trunk  in  the  form  of  grains,  or  is  collected  in 
vessels  in  which  it  congeals  and  assumes  the  form  of 
lumps  ("  tampangs").  Older  trees  which  have  been 


RESINS   AND   BALSAMS.  157 

frequently  tapped  for  resin  yield  a  product  of  a  lower 
Duality;  the  grains  ("tears")  forming,  as  a  rule,  the 
better  varieties.  When  the  benzoin  collects  in  large 
masses  it  always  shows  an  amygdaloid  structure,  the 
grains  ("almonds")  of  a  roundish  form,  smooth  termina- 
tion, homogeneous  structure,  and  paler  color,  appearing 
imbedded  in  a  dark,  porous,  or  resiniform  mass. 

According  to  the  appearance  of  the  product  three 
varieties  are  distinguished :  Benzoin  in  tears  (B.  in 
lacrimis),  amygdaloid  benzoin  (B.  amygdaloides),  and  lump 
benzoin  (B.  in  sortis,  B.  in  massis).  The  benzoin  in 
tears  forms  loose,  smoothly  terminated,  longish,  homo- 
geneously appearing  masses  of  an  opal-like  lustre,  and 
first  of  a  whitish,  and  later  on,  of  a  yellowish,  reddish, 
or  brownish  color.  The  separate  pieces  are  up  to  3 
millimeters  in  diameter,  though  the  Siam  benzoin  in 
tears  frequently  consists  of  still  larger  and  generally 
decidedly  flattened  pieces. 

Amygdaloid  benzoin  consists  chiefly  of  white  pieces, 
becoming,  later  on,  brownish,  of  a  waxy  lustre  and  im- 
bedded in  a  lustrous  brown-red  resinous  mass.  The 
lump  benzoin  or  ordinary  benzoin  has  also  an  amygdaloid 
structure  but  is  not  so  rich  in  almonds  as  the  preceding 
variety  and  possesses  either  a  fine  granular  or  colophony- 
like  ground-mass  and  is  frequently  contaminated  by  parts 
of  plants.  The  exterior  of  the  variety  occurring  in 
commerce  in  large  lumps  shows,  according  to  the  mode 
of  packing,  the  imprint  of  leaves  or  of  coarse  pack- 
cloth. 

Benzoin  generally  consists  of  cinnamic  and  benzoic 
acids  which  occur  in  a  crystalline  state  in  the  grains  as 
well  as  the  ground-mass ;  further,  of  several  amorphous 


158  MANUFACTURE   OF   PERFUMERY. 

resins  soluble  in  alcohol,  and  coloring  matter.  The  con- 
tent of  cinnamic  and  benzoic  acids  amounts  to  from  1 2 
to  20  per  cent.  The  best  varieties  from  Sumatra  and 
Singapore  contain  no  benzoic  acid,  and  those  from  Siam 
no  cinnamic  acid. 

All  varieties  of  benzoin  possess  a  peculiar  odor,  that 
of  the  better  varieties  being  agreeable,  and  a  sweet, 
aromatic,  but  pungent  taste.  The  melting  point  gen- 
erally lies  between  176°  and  203°  F.,  that  of  the  tears 
and  of  the  almonds  being  lower  than  that  of  the  ground- 
mass.  A  low  melting-point  is  accepted  as  a  mark  of 
quality,  Siam  benzoin,  which  is  considered  the  best, 
melting  at  167°  F.  Some  varieties,  for  instance,  those 
recently  imported  from  Singapore,  have  a  pronounced 
vanilla-like  odor;  the  presence  of  vanillin  has  been 
established  in.  them.  The  Sumatra  benzoin  has  a 
storax-like  odor. 

Benzoin  is  sparingly  soluble  in  chloroform,  only  par- 
tially so  in  ether,  and  completely  in  alcohol.  On  mix- 
ing the  alcoholic  solution  with  water,  the  resin  is 
separated.  Petroleum-ether  and  benzine  withdraw  only 
benzoic  acid  from  the  dry,  powdered  benzoin.  All 
varieties  of  benzoin  dissolve  in  concentrated  sulphuric 
acid  to  a  beautiful  purple  colored  fluid,  from  which 
benzoic  acid,  if  present,  is  separated  in  crystals  by  the 
gradual  addition  of  water.  The  establishment  of  the 
presence  of  cinnamic  acid  is  best  effected  as  follows: 
Boil  the  sample  in  milk  of  lime,  filter,  and  treat  the 
solution  with  hydrochloric  acid.  The  precipitate  thereby 
separated  is  thoroughly  washed,  triturated  with  potas- 
sium permanganate  and  water,  and  heated,  whereby  in 
the  presence  of  cinnamic  acid,  oil  of  bitter  almonds  is 


RESINS   AND   BALSAMS.  159 

formed  from  the  latter,  which  is  readily  recognized  by 
the  odor. 

If  benzoin  containing  benzoic  acid  be  heated,  white 
vapors  are  emitted  which,  on  cold  surfaces,  deposit  in 
very  delicate,  lustrous,  acicular,  or  foliated  crystals  of 
benzoic  acid,  the  so-called  benzoin  flowers  (Floris  ben- 
zoes.)  Benzoic  acid  thus  prepared  possesses  an  agreeable, 
vanilla-like  odor,  since  by  heating  the  benzoin  the 
greater  portion  of  the  odoriferous  substance  contained 
in  it  escapes.  Benzoic  acid  separated  by  the  wet  method 
is  odorless. 

Benzoin  is  especially  used  for  fumigating  pastilles. 
It  is  also  of  great  importance  on  account  of  its  property 
of  preventing  fats  from  becoming  rancid,  if  added  to 
them  in  small  quantities. 

Peru  balsam  (Bahamum  Peruvianum)  is  the  produce 
of  the  Balsam  Coast,  San  Salvador,  Central  America, 
where  Sansonate  forms  the  central  point  of  the  industry. 
In  the  mountain  forests,  back  of  the  coast,  grows  the 
balsam  tree  (Myroxylon  Pereirce,  Klotzch ;  Toluifene 
Pereirce,  Battlon),  natural  order,  Papilionaceoe.  The 
gaining  of  balsam  commences  when  the  tree  is  five  years 
old,  the  collecting  time  beginning  in  the  dry  season  in 
the  first  days  of  November.  The  trunks  of  the  trees 
are  belabored  with  hammers  on  four  places  (according 
to  other  statements,  on  twenty  to  thirty),  so  that  the 
bark  is  detached  in  strips.  After  a  few  days  the  bark 
thus  loosened  is  burnt  off  by  means  of  torches,  where- 
upon a  balsamic  fluid  oozes  from  the  young  wood,  which 
is  absorbed  by  pieces  of  cloth  or  rags,  placed  upon  the 
denuded  places.  When  the  rags  are  thoroughly  satu- 
rated with  balsam,  they  are  squeezed  out  and  then 


160  MANUFACTURE   OF   PERFUMERY. 

thrown  into  an  earthen  pot  filled  with  boiling  water, 
whereby  the  balsam  is  detached  and  collects  on  the  bot- 
tom of  the  vessel.  By  this  process  the  Balsamo  de  trapo 
is  obtained.  By  boiling  the  bark,  which  falls  off,  a 
small  quantity  of  a  poorer  quality  of  balsam,  called 
tacuasonte,  is  obtained,  which,  it  would  seem,  is  fre- 
quently added  to  the  better  quality.  Crude  Peruvian 
balsam  is  a  gray-green  to  dirty-yellow  fluid,  of  the  con- 
sistency of  syrup.  The  process  of  purification  in  use  on 
the  Balsamic  Coast  is  as  follows  :  The  crude  balsam  is 
brought  into  large  iron  vessels,  holding  from  1300  to 
1500  Ibs.  each,  and  allowed  to  clarify  by  quietly  stand- 
ing from  8  to  14  days,  the  heavy  impurities  settling  on 
the  bottom,  while  the  light  dirt,  together  with  the  water, 
appears  as  foam  on  the  surface.  After  8  to  14  days 
the  balsam  is  drawn  off  through  a  cock,  located  about 
4f  inches  above  the  bottom  of  the  vessel,  into  a  tinned 
iron  boiler,  and  boiled  over  an  open  fire  at  a  moderate 
heat  for  2  to  3  hours.  The  foam  which  forms  is  skinned 
off,  and  boiling  continued  until  no  more  foam  appears. 

The  collection  of  balsam  continues  until  the  first  rain 
falls  in  April  or  May,  when  the  work  ceases.  A  vig- 
orous tree,  well  treated,  yields  balsam  for  30  years  in 
succession,  and  if  then  allowed  to  rest  5  or  6  years  can 
be  used  several  years  longer.  The  annual  yield  of  bal- 
sam from  100  trees  is  said  to  be  about  550  Ibs. 

From  the  very  odoriferous  flowers  of  the  balsam  tree 
or,  according  to  others,  by  expressing  the  fruits,  a  white 
Peruvian  balsam  is  obtained,  which  is,  however,  seldom 
found  in  commerce.  It  is  of  the  consistency  of  honey, 
pale-yellow,  smells  of  vanilla  and  melilot,  and  has  an 


RESINS   AND   BALSAMS.  161 

aromatic  bitter  taste.     On  standing  for  some  time  it  de- 
posits crystals  of  myroxocarpiu. 

Ordinary  (black)  Peruvian  balsam  is  a  black-brown 
fluid,  transparent  and  dark  (honey-yellow  in  thin 
layers),  which  retains  its  consistency  even  after  being 
kept  for  years  and  deposits  no  crystals.  It  shows  a 
slight  acid  reaction,  has  an  agreeable  odor  reminding  one 
of  gum  benzoin  and  vanilla,  and  at  first  a  mild,  but,  later 
on,  a  sharp  and  pungent  taste. 

The  specific  gravity  of  pure  Peru  balsam  formerly 
varied  between  1.14  and  1.16,  but  at  present  between 
1.135  and  1.145,  this  change  in  the  specific  gravity 
being  very  likely  due  to  a  different  process  of 
purification. 

Peru  balsam  is  miscible  in  every  proportion  with 
absolute  alcohol,  while  ether  leaves  behind  undissolved 
a  black,  smeary  residue,  and  hot  oils  of  turpentine  or 
almonds  dissolve  only  about  one-half.  It  is  miscible 
with  acetone,  chloroform,  amyl  alcohol.  By  digesting 
the  balsam  with  aqueous  potash  lye,  Peru  balsam  oil, 
which  constitutes  about  60  per  cent,  of  the  balsam, 
separates  on  the  surface.  In  an  un decomposed 'state  the 
oil  is,  according  to  Kachler,  chiefly  benzyl,  cinnamate, 
or  cinnamein.  The  potash  solution  separated  from  the 
Peru  balsam  oil,  contains  cinnamic  acid,  benzole  acid, 
and  resin.  The  latter,  according  to  Stotze,  can  be  sepa- 
rated into  two  portions,  one  soluble,  and  the  other 
insoluble,  in  aqueous  alcohol. 

Benzine  and  petroleum-ether  dissolve  from  the  Peru 
balsam  only  the  nearly  colorless  cinnamein  of  which  it 
contains  up  to  45  per  cent.     The  behavior  of  Peru  bal- 
sam towards  bisulphide  of  carbon  is  very  characteristic, 
11 


162  MANUFACTURE   OF   PERFUMERY. 

3  parts  of  it  giving,  according  to  Fliickiger,  a  clear 
solution  with  1  part  of  bisulphide  of  carbon;  if,  how- 
ever, 8  parts  more  of  the  latter  be  added,  up  to  30  per 
cent,  of  a  dark  resin  is  separated,  while  the  bisulphide 
of  carbon  is  but  slightly  colored. 

From  San  Salvador  11,000  to  13,000  Ibs.  of  Peru 
balsam  are  annually  brought  to  Europe,  it  being  gen- 
erally imported  in  tin  cans,  and  more  rarely  in  earthen 
jars  surrounded  by  a  kind  of  plaited  matting.  Accord- 
ing to  whether  the  product  comes  by  way  of  England, 
New  York,  Bremen,  or  Hamburg,  it  is  distinguished  as 
English,  American,  Bremen,  or  Hamburg  Peru  balsam. 
The  supply  being  frequently  insufficient,  the  balsam  is 
subjected  to  many  adulterations.  A  cheap,  so-called 
London  Peru  balsam  always  contained  colophony  and 
had  a  specific  gravity  of  1.133.  There  can  be  no  doubt 
that  pure  unadulterated  Peru  balsam  is  difficult  to 
obtain. 

As  adulterants,  are  used  :  Alchohol,  volatile  oils,  fat 
oil,  especially  castor  oil;  further,  copaiba  balsam,  Canada 
balsam,  gurjun  balsam,  storax,  benzoin,  and  asphaltum. 
The  establishment  of  these  adulterants  is  connected 
with  difficulties ;  but  the  properties  of  Peru  balsam 
are  so  characteristic  that  it  is  quite  easy  to  detect 
whether  it  is  genuine  and  pure,  or  not,  the  specific 
gravity  and  proportions  of  solubility  deserving  especial 
attention  in  this  respect.  The  test  by  the  specific 
gravity  is  available,  since  most  of  the  adulterants  render 
the  balsam  specifically  lighter,  especially  alcohol,  but 
also  copaiba  balsam  (specific  gravity,  0.95),  castor  oil 
(0.96),  oil  of  turpentine  (0.87),  gurjun  (0.96),  etc.  The 
customary  procedure  is  as  follows  :  Prepare  a  common 


KESINS   AND   BALSAMS.  163 

salt  solution  of  1.25  specific  gravity,  by  dissolving  1  part 
of  dried  sodium  chloride  in  5  parts  of  distilled  water; 
drop  the  balsam  into  the  solution  ;  every  drop  of  pure 
Peru  balsam  sinks  in  a  roundish  form  to  the  bottom ; 
but  if  the  drop  again  comes  to  the  surface  and  spreads 
out  upon  it,  it  is  a  sure  sign  of  some  kind  of  adultera- 
tion. However,  the  change  in  the  specific  gravity  by 
the  admixture  of  fat  oils  is  but  very  slight,  since  the 
balsam  can  only  be  mixed  with  them  to  a  conformable 
fluid  in  the  proportion  of  from  7  to  10  to  1.  Castor  oil 
forms  an  exception  in  this  respect,  it  being  miscible  also 
in  other  proportions. 

Petroleum-ether  is  an  excellent  testing  agent.  Bring 
into  a  test-tube  about  2.5  grammes  of  Peru  balsam,  and 
6  to  7  centimeters  of  petroleum-ether,  close  the  tube 
with  the  finger  and  shake  vigorously ;  a  brown,  thickly- 
fluid  mass  adheres  in  unequal  layers  to  the  sides  of 
the  tube,  and  before  running  together  remains  in  this 
position  1  to  2  minutes  after  the  petroleum- ether  has 
been  poured  into  a  porcelain  saucer.  If,  however,  the 
mass  is  thinly-fluid,  and  does  not,  in  the  above-mentioned 
manner,  adhere  to  the  sides  of  the  tube,  but,  after  shak- 
ing, collects  below  the  petroleum-ether,  the  balsam  is 
adulterated.  After  shaking,  immediately  pour  off  the 
petroleum-ether;  if  the  latter  is  almost  colorless,  or 
but  slightly  colored  yellowish,  the  balsam  is  pure ;  if, 
however,  it  is  turbid,  and  soon  forms  a  sediment,  or  if 
it  is  yellow  or  brownish,  or  brown,  the  balsam  is  adul- 
terated. 

Alcohol  is  added  either  by  itself  or  in  the  form  of 
saturated  solution  of  storax,  benzoin,  or  Canada  balsam, 
by  which  means  the  specific  gravity  of  the  balsam  is  but 


164  MANUFACTURE   OF   PERFUMERY. 

slightly  changed.  Bring  the  above-mentioned  common 
salt  solution,  together  with  20  grammes  of  the  Peru 
balsam  to  be  examined,  into  a  small  flask,  and  distil  off 
about  5  grammes ;  gradually  mix  the  distillate  with  5 
drops  of  caustic  potash  lye  and  potassium  iodide  solu- 
tion saturated  with  iodine,  shaking  gently  until  the 
mixture  acquires  a  slightly  yellow-brownish  coloration. 
If  this  coloration  does  not  disappear  in  one  minute, 
add  drop  by  drop  more  of  the  potash  lye  until  discolora- 
tion appears.  In  the  presence  of  alcohol,  yellow  crystals 
of  iodoform,  which  are  readily  recognized  under  the 
microscope  by  their  form,  collect  on  the  bottom  of  the 
fluid.  Adulteration  with  a  volatile  oil  is  recognized  in 
the  distillate  by  odor  and  taste. 

Fat  oil,  Canada  balsam,  copaiba  balsam,  gurjun  bal- 
sam, and  volatile  oil  may  be  recognized  by  the  follow- 
ing tests :  If  pure  Peru  balsam  in  a  porcelain  saucer 
is  thoroughly  mixed  with  an  equal  volume  of  pure  con- 
centrated sulphuric  acid,  the  mixture  thereby  becomes 
heated,  vapors  of  a  pungent  odor  being  emitted,  and  if 
then  set  aside  to  cool,  it  congeals.  In  the  presence  of 
fat  or  volatile  oils,  copaiba  balsam,  gurjun  balsam,  or 
Canada  balsam,  it  remains,  however,  more  or  less  thickly 
fluid  or  more  or  less  soft-smeary.  If  the  balsam  be 
pure,  the  cold  mixture,  after  washing  with  water,  should 
yield  a  hardish  or  soft-friable  mass,  which,  when 
kneaded  with  the  fingers,  should  not  prove  smeary  or 
sticky. 

Fat  oils  are  also  very  readily  recognized  by  the  use 
of  warm  petroleum-ether.  The  extract  is  evaporated, 
saponified  with  potash  lye,  extracted  with  alcohol,  evap- 
orated and  decomposed  with  hydrochloric  acid.  A  mix- 


RESINS   AND   BALSAMS.  165 

ture  of  cinnamic  acid  and  any  of  the  fatty  acids  present 
in  the  Peru  balsam  is  thereby  obtained,  which,  after 
treatment  with  water,  remains  in  the  residue. 

Of  copaiba  balsam,  Peru  balsam  can  take  up  as  much 
as  25  per  cent.  From  such  adulterated  balsam  ben- 
zine dissolves  the  copaiba  balsam,  together  with  cinna- 
mein,  and  the  adulteration  can  then  be  recognized  by 
the  odor.  Cinnamein  treated  with  sulphuric  acid  ac- 
quires a  cherry-red  color,  while  in  the  presence  of  copaiba 
balsam  or  gurjun  balsam,  a  yellow-brown  coloration 
appears.  The  detection  of  an  adulteration  of  Peru  bal- 
sam with  storax  is,  according  to  Denner,  effected  as 
follows :  Shake  in  a  test-tube  5  parts  of  the  balsam 
to  be  examined  with  5  parts  of  a  15  per  cent,  soda  solu- 
tion (soda  lye  of  1.60  specific  gravity)  and  10  parts 
of  water.  .Then  shake  with  15  parts  of  ether,  and 
after  settling  pour  off  the  ether  as  much  as  possible. 
Repeat  the  shaking  with  15  parts  of  fresh  ether.  Now 
heat  the  aqueous  residue  to  boiling,  acidulate  with 
hydrochloric  acid,  add  cold  water,  remove  the  resin  sepa- 
rated thereby  from  the  fluids,  dissolve  it  in  about  3  parts 
of  soda  lye  of  the  above-mentioned  strength,  dilute  with 
20  parts  of  water,  heat  to  boiling,  and  precipitate  with 
barium  chloride  solution.  Bring  the  precipitate  upon 
the  filter,  and,  after  allowing  it  to  drain  off,  dry  it  in  the 
water-bath.  Then  extract  it  with  alcohol,  evaporate 
the  alcoholic  extract,  take  it  up  with  concentrated  sul- 
phuric acid,  add  chloroform,  and  shake.  In  the  presence 
of  gum  benzoin  or  storax,  the  chloroform  acquires  a 
violet  to  blue  color.  This  method  is  a  sure  test  for  the 
recognition  of  even  very  small  admixtures. 

A  content  of  asphaltum  is  readily  detected  by  mixing 


166  MANUFACTURE   OF   PERFUMERY. 

the  Peru  balsam  with  ether  compounded  with  about  J- 
alcohol.  Any  asphaltum  present  remains  undissolved, 
and  may  be  collected  upon  a  filter. 

In  perfumery  Peru  balsam  is  chiefly  used  for  pomades 
and  fumigating  pastilles,  but  also  for  cosmetics  and 
soaps. 

Tolu  balsam  is  the  produce  of  Myroxylon  toluiferum, 
Humb.j  Bonpl  et  Kunth,  Toluifera  balsamum,  L.,  a 
tree  of  the  natural  order  Papilionacece,  growing  in 
Northwestern  South  America.  It  exudes  during  the 
heat  of  the  day,  and  is  collected  in  gourds.  It  soon 
hardens,  by  which  it  is  distinguished  from  Peru  balsam. 
In  commerce  two  varieties  of  Tolu  balsam  are  found, 
one  of  the  consistency  of  turpentine  and  the  other  solid. 
The  first  variety,  Brazilian  balsam,  forms  a  semifluid, 
turpentine-like,  sticky  mass,  of  the  color,  of  copaiba 
balsam.  By  long  storage  it  becomes  hard  and  brownish. 
The  solid  variety,  Tolu,  or  Carthagena  balsam,  is  a 
brittle,  more  or  less  translucent  yellow-brown  or  red- 
brown  resin  of  a  granular  or  crystalline  appearance.  It 
softens  at  about  86°  F.,  and  melts  between  140°  and 
149°  F.  Viewed  under  the  microscope,  it  appears  rich 
in  crystals  of  separated  ciannamic  and  benzoic  acids. 
Its  specific  gravity  varies  between  1  and  2.  Both  varie- 
ties of  Tolu  balsam  have  an  aromatic,  slightly  pungent 
and  sourish  taste,  resembling  somewhat  that  of  Peru 
balsam.  They  are  readily  soluble  in  ordinary  spirit  of 
wine,  alcohol,  acetone,  chloroform,  and  potash  lye,  but 
insoluble  in  petroleum-ether  and  bisulphide  of  carbon. 
In  Tolu  balsam  have  been  found  toluene,  cinnamic  and 
benzoic  acids,  and  several  resins  not  yet  sufficiently  ex- 
amined. According  to  Scharling,  toluene  constitutes 


RESINS   AND   BALSAMS.  167 

about  1  per  cent,  of  the  Tolu  balsam.  It  forms  a  color- 
less, limp  oil,  boils,  according  to  Deville,  at  338°  F., 
and  according  to  E.  Kopp,  at  between  309°  and  320°  F., 
and  has  a  specific  gravity  of  0.858.  It  has  a  sharp, 
pungent,  pepper-like  taste,  and  an  odor  resembling  that 
of  elemi.  In  the  air,  it  is  gradually  converted  by 
oxidation  into  a  soft  resin,  without,  however,  becoming 
colored. 

On  boiling  Tolu  balsam  with  water,  cinnamic  and 
benzonic  acids  are  separated  from  the  solution.  When 
treated  with  potash  lye  the  resinous  acids  are  fixed,  and 
the  toluene  floats  upon  the  fluid. 

Commercial  Tolu  balsam  is  frequently  more  or  less 
mixed  with  vegetable  remains,  which,  however,  can  be 
readily  detected  with  the  microscope,  especially  after 
the  solution  of  the  resinous  constituents.  It  is  fre- 
quently adulterated  with  turpentine  or  pine  resin. 
Such  adulterations  may  be  detected  by  bisulphide  of 
carbon,  which  completely  dissolves  these  substances, 
but  not  the  Tolu  balsam.  When  pure  Tolu  balsam  is 
triturated  with  concentrated  sulphuric  acid,  a  cherry-red 
fluid  is,  according  to  Ulex,  obtained,  which  does  not 
evolve  sulphurous  acid,  as  is  the  case  in  the  presence  of 
turpentine-resins. 

Tolu  balsam  is  chiefly  used  for  fumigating  pastilles. 
The  tincture  prepared  from  it  is  also  frequently  used 
with  advantage  to  give  durability  to  the  scent  of  hand- 
kerchief perfumes. 

According  to  Holmes  and  Nalor,  a  Tolu  balsam  dif- 
fering in  its  chemical  behavior  is  found  in  the  English 
wholesale  trade.  In  thick  layers  it  is  yellow-brown, 
but  perfectly  transparent  and  gold-yellow  in  thin  layers 


168        MANUFACTURE  OF  PERFUMERY. 

and  extraordinarily  sticky.  By  storage  it  hardens  but 
slightly,  and  does  not  become  brittle  even  if  exposed  for 
several  days  to  a  temperature  of  212°  F.  Its  odor  re- 
minds one  somewhat  of  glue,  and  it  develops  a  pungent, 
sharp  taste  only  after  chewing  it  for  a  few  seconds.  Its 
melting  point  lies  at  136.4°  F.,  being  lower  than  that 
of  ordinary  Tolu  balsam,  from  which  it  also  differs  in 
that  it  completely  dissolves  in  ether  as  well  as  in  ben- 
zine, while  it  is  only  partially  dissolved  by  potash  lye. 
The  balsam  contains  no  toluene,  nor  a  hydrocarbon, 
boiling  at  320°  F.  Further  investigations  have  shown 
it  actually  to  be  a  natural  product,  the  derivation  of 
which,  however,  could  not  be  ascertained. 

'*  Storax  is  the  produce  of  Liquid  ambar  orientate,  Mill,  a 
plantain-like  tree  which  reaches  a  height  of  about  32  feet. 
In  Southern  Asia  Minor,  especially  in  Cyprus,  the  tree 
forms  handsome,  dense  forests.  According  to  Fliickiger, 
the  balsam  is  extracted  from  the  peeled-off  bark,  with 
the  assistance  of  warm  water.  The  mass  thus  melted 
out  sinks  down  in  the  water,  and  is  later  on  combined 
with  the  substance  obtained  by  expressing  the  boiled 
bark  while  still  warm.  This  mixture  forms  the  liquid 
storax  (Storax  liquidus).  The  residue  remaining  after 
expression  is  dried  in  the  sun  and  forms,  under  the 
name  of  Cortex  thymiamatis,  an  article  of  commerce, 
which  is  used  for  fumigating  purpose,  for  the  prepara- 
tion of  ordinary  storax,  etc.  The  crude  storax  is  brought 
to  Smyrna,  Syra,  and  Kos,  and  comes  into  the  European 
market  almost  exclusively  from  Trieste. 
*  Liquid  storax  is  a  sticky,  opaque  substance  of  the  con- 
sistency of  turpentine.  It  has  a  mouse-gray  color,  which 
by  contact  with  the  air  becomes  brown  on  the  surface, 


RESINS   AND   BALSAMS.  169 

an  agreeable  benzoin-like  odor,  and  a  sharp,  pungent, 
aromatic  taste.  It  is  heavier  than  water,  its  specific 
gravity  being  1.112  to  1.115.  On  losing  its  content  of 
moisture  (by  drying  out  when  heated)  it  becomes  brown 
and  clear.  When  exposed  to  the  air  in  a  thick  layer  it 
does  not  completely  dry,  and  in  a  thin  layer  only  after 
considerable  time ;  but  when  pressed  with  the  finger 
always  shows  a  certain  stickiness.  It  is  partially  solu- 
ble in  spirits  of  wine,  yielding  with  it  a  more  or  less 
turbid  solution.  It  is  also  incompletely  soluble  in  oil  of 
turpentine,  benzine,  petroleum-ether,  and  chloroform. 
Viewed  under  the  microscope  liquid  storax  appears  as  a 
colorless  thickish  fluid,  intermingled  with  larger  and 
smaller  drops,  fragments  of  bark  tissue,  and  now  and 
then,  perhaps,  with  crystals  of  styracin  and  cinnamic 
acid. 

Liquid  storax  contains  styrol  (10  to  15  per  cent.), 
styraciu,  and  cinnamic  acid  (10  to  15  per  cent.).  Styrol 
or  cinnamol  seems  to  be  the  most  important  carrier  of 
the  odor  and  taste  of  liquid  storax.  If  20  parts  of  liquid 
storax  are  subjected  to  distillation  together  with  15  parts 
of  crystallized  soda  and  200  parts  of  water,  the  cinnamol 
collects  in  the  form  of  a  yellowish,  very  mobile  liquid 
upon  the  distillate.  By  rectification  it  can  be  obtained 
colorless,  but  is  thereby  partially  converted  into  meta- 
styrol,  an  isomeric,  amorphous,  odorless,  and  tasteless 
substance  which  is  solid  at  an  ordinary  temperature. 
By  exposure  for  some  time  to  a  heat  of  608°  F.  it  is 
reconverted  into  styrol.  Styrol  (C8H8)  forms  a  clear, 
colorless,  mobile  liquid  having  an  odor  of  benzine  and 
naphthalene.  Its  specific  gravity  is  0.924  and  its  boil- 
ing point  lies  at  294.8°  F.  In  water  it  is  but  sparingly 


1 70  MANUFACTURE   OF   PERFUMERY. 

soluble,  but  is  miscible  in  all  proportions  with  anhydrous 
spirit  of  wine,  chloroform,  benzine,  ether,  and  oils.  It 
stands  in  the  same  relation  to  cinnamic  acid  as  benzol 
to  benzoic  acid,  and  is  formed  by  distilling  a  mixture  of 
cinnamic  acid  and  barium  oxide. 

Styracin  is  cinnyl  cinnamate.  On  distilling  liquid 
storax  with  water,  styrol  passes  over.  If  now  from  the 
residue  the  cinnamic  acid  be  withdrawn  by  means  of 
soda-solution,  and  the  resin,  which  remains  behind,  be 
treated  with  cold  spirit  of  wine,  styracin  is  left,  which 
crystallizes  from  ether,  hot  alcohol,  or  benzol.  It  forms 
colorless,  odorless,  and  tasteless  crystals  which  melt  at 
113°  F.  and  remain  for  a  long  time  fluid  after  melting. 
It  is  insoluble  in  water,  but  soluble  in  25  parts  cold, 
and  2  parts  boiling,  spirit  of  wine,  as  well  as  in  5  parts 
ether.  By  oxidizing  substances  it  is  converted  into  bitter 
almond  oil  and  benzoic  acid,  and  by  the  action  of  potas- 
sium hydroxide  it  is  decomposed  to  cinnyl  alcohol  and 
cinnamic  acid. 

Good  liquid  storax  should  yield  to  90  per  cent,  alco- 
hol at  least  so  much  soluble  matter  that  the  dried  resi- 
due of  the  filtered  alcoholic  solution  amounts  to  65  per 
cent,  of  the  quantity  of  storax. 

Ordinary  liquid  storax,  which  has  not  been  stored  too 
long,  contains  10  to  20  per  cent,  of  water  and  about  the 
same  quantity  of  impurities  (fragments  of  plant  tissue) 
which  remain  behind  on  treatment  with  the  above-men- 
tioned solvents. 

Liquid  storax  is  said  to  be  adulterated  with  the  tur- 
pentines of  some  species  of  larch  and  pine.  Such  adul- 
teration is  primarily  detected,  according  to  Hager,  by 
the  specific  gravity.  Take  up  a  drop  of  the  balsam 


RESINS   AND   BALSAMS.  171 

with  a  knitting-needle,  and  by  heating  the  needle  make 
it  fall  into  a  cold  solution  of  1  part  common  salt  and  8 
parts  water.  On  stirring,  the  drop  must  sink,  otherwise 
adulteration  with  turpentine  is  very  likely.  Next  bring 
5  grammes  of  the  storax  into  a  test-tube,  melt  it  in  the 
water-bath,  add  J  volume  of  absolute  alcohol,  and  mix 
by  shaking ;  then  compound  the  mixture  with  several 
times  its  volume  of  petroleum -ether,  shake  vigorously, 
allow  to  settle,  and  decant  the  layer  of  petroleum-ether. 
Repeat  twice  this  shaking  with  petroleum-ether;  then 
evaporate  the  petroleum-ether  solution  in  a  tared  flask 
in  the  water-bath.  The  residue  remaining  after  evapo- 
ration is  colorless,  bluish  opalescent,  and  of  an  agreeable 
odor ;  in  the  presence  of  turpentine  it  is  yellowish  and 
has  the,  not  to  be  mistaken,  odor  of  turpentine. 

Storax  in  grains  consists  of  round,  longish  grains  of  a 
brown-black  color  and  smooth,  lustrous  surface,  which 
soften  by  the  warmth  of  the  hand.  It  is  nothing  but 
liquid  storax  brought  into  a  granular  form  and  by  stor- 
ing freed  more  or  less  from  impurities. 

Ordinary  storax  (Styrax  calamitus  or  St.  vulgar  is)  is  an 
artificial  product  prepared  by  mixing  liquid  storax  with 
various  comminuted  vegetable  substances.  Formerly 
the  above-mentioned  bark  of  the  storax  tree  (Cortex 
thymiamatis)  was  only  used  for  this  purpose,  but  at 
present  sawdust  and  exhausted  cinnamon  are  also 
taken.  This  storax  forms  a  reddish  or  brown-black, 
humus-like  mass,  which  is  generally  moist.  When 
dried  it  is  very  friable  and  has  a  storax-like  odor 
distinctly  calling  to  mind  that  of  cinnamon.  Good 
qualities  are  abundantly  covered  with  crystalline  efflor- 
escences (of  cinnamic  acid  and  styracin) ;  poorer  quali- 


172  MANUFACTURE    OF   PERFUMERY. 

ties  prepared  with  the  addition  of  sawdust  have  a  musty 
odor.  The  admixed  vegetable  tissue  can,  according  to 
Wiesner,  be  readily  recognized  by  boiling  the  storax 
with  alcohol,  and  after  washing  treating  with  dilute 
chromic  acid,  to  which  a  small  quantity  of  sulphuric 
acid  has  been  added. 

} Liquid  storax  was  already  used  for  fumigating  pur- 
poses by  the  ancient  Greeks  and  Jews,  and  it  forms  to- 
day a  constituent  of  fumigating  pastilles,  essences,  etc. 
Storax  tincture  furthermore  possesses  the  property  of 
giving  more  constancy  to  scents  resembling  it.  Piesse 
says,  in  regard  to  the  odor  of  liquid  storax,  that  it  com- 
bines the  agreeable  with  the  disagreeable,  it  possessing 
partially  an  odor  similar  to  that  of  the  tuberose  and 
partially  one  reminding  of  coal-tar  oil.  However,  it 
possesses  this  disagreeable  odor  only  in  a  concentrated 
state ;  when  finely  divided  or  diluted,  it  diffuses  a  very 
agreeable  perfume.  \y 

Under  the  name  American  storax,  white  Peru  balsam, 
white  Indian  balsam  or  liquid  ambar  is  found  in  com- 
merce a  product  similar  to  storax,  which  is  derived  from 
Ijiquicfambar  styraciflua,  L.,  a  tree  indigenous  to  Mexico 
and  Louisiana.  This  balsam  forms  a  clear,  transparent, 
brownish-yellow,  semi-fluid  mass.  It  has  a  storax-like 
odor,  and  a  sharp  and  pungent  taste.  It  is  only 
partially  soluble  in  alcohol,  specifically  lighter  than 
water,  and  shows  an  acid  reaction.  It  is  said  to  consist 
of  24  per  cent,  styracin,  1  per  cent,  benzoic  acid,  volatile 
oil,  etc.  It  is  sometimes  used  for  fumigating  purposes, 
but  chiefly  serves  for  the  adulteration  of  Tolu  balsam. 
^  Myrrh  (Gummi-resina  myrrha,  Gummi  myrrhd)  is  a 
gum  resin,  the  produce  of  Balsamodendron  Ehren- 


RESINS   AND   BALSAMS.  173 

bergianum,  Berg,  and,  perhaps,  also  of  Balsamodendron 
Myrrha,  Nees.  The  first-named  tree  is  found  in  the 
countries  bordering  on  the  Red  Sea,  and  extends  into 
Africa  to  the  Somali  Coast,  where  the  principal  supply 
of  inyrrh  is  collected.  The  gum-resin  exudes  naturally 
as  a  white  oil-like  mass,  which,  after  hardening,  whereby 
it  becomes  considerably  darker,  is  collected  by  the  natives 
and  brought  chiefly  to  Berbera,  a  small  seaport  opposite 
Aden,  to  be  exchanged  for  English  and  Indian  goods. 
From  there,  by  way  of  Aden  and  Bombay,  it  reaches 
the  European  market.  In  Bombay  the  first  sorting 
takes  place,  which  is,  however,  superficial,  and  hence 
has  to  be  repeated  in  Europe  (London).  According  to 
Parker,  ten  different  resins  are  admixed  with  myrrh, 
especially  bdellium  resins. 

In  commerce  Myrrha  eleda  and  Myrrha  vulgaris  or 
in  sortis  are  distinguished.  Myrrha  eleda,  the  best 
quality,  occurs  in  pieces  of  irregular  form  and  variable 
sizes,  consisting  of  tears — either  distinct  or  agglomerated 
— usually  covered  with  a  fine  powder  or  dust.  The  sur- 
face is  seldom  smooth,  but  generally  rough  or  granular. 
The  color  varies,  being  pale  reddish-yellow,  red,  or  red- 
dish-brown. The  fracture  is  conchoidal,  seldom  smooth, 
but  rather  granular,  rough,  of  a  fatty  lustre,  and  some- 
times shows  whitish  striaB  or  veins,  or  opalesces  like  flint. 
The  fractured  edges  are  more  or  less  translucent ;  thin 
disks  or  splinters  are  translucent  or  transparent.  The 
specific  gravity  is,  according  to  Hager,  1.195  to  1.205, 
and  according  to  Ruickholdt,  1.12  to  1.18.  A  Myrrha 
eleda  is  the  better,  the  more  fragile,  friable,  and  paler  in 
color  it  is,  and  the  more  rapidly  it  ignites  and  burns 
with  a  yellow,  sooty  flame.  Poorer  qualities  may  be 


174  MANUFACTURE   OF   PERFUMERY. 

recognized  by  the  dark-brown  color  and  dirty  appear- 
ance. Myrrh  is  with  difficulty  rubbed  to  a  fine  powder, 
this  being  possible  only  after  drying,  which  must,  how- 
ever, be  done  at  a  very  moderate  heat  in  order  to  pre- 
vent loss  of  volatile  oil. 

According  to  Hager,  myrrh  consists  in  100  parts  of 
about  2.5  parts  volatile  oil  (myrrhol),  25  to  35  parts 
resin  (myrrhin),  55  to  65  parts  gum  soluble  in  water, 
3  to  8  parts  salts,  impurities,  and  water.  Water  forms 
with  myrrh  an  emulsion,  and  dissolves  the  gum.  The 
resinous  constituents  are  dissolved  by  spirit  of  wine. 

The  gum,  which  forms  the  portion  of  the  myrrh 
soluble  in  water,  but  insoluble  in  alcohol,  and  amounts 
to  from  57  to  59  per  cent.,  is,  according  to  Oscar  Koehler, 
a  hydrocarbpn  of  the  formula  C6H,0O5.  The  portion 
soluble  in  alcohol  is,  according  to  the  same  chemist,  a 
mixture  of  various  resins,  an  indiiferent  soft  resin  of  the 
formula  C26H34O5,  soluble  in  alcohol  and  ether,  forming 
the  greater  portion  of  it.  There  are  further  present 
two  resin  acids,  one  of  which  has  to  be  considered  a 
bibasic  acid  of  composition  C12H16O8,  and  the  other  as  a 
monobasic  acid  of  the  formula  C26H32O9.  The  principal 
constituent  of  the  volatile  oil  of  which,  according  to 
Koehler,  7  to  8  per  cent,  is  present,  while  Euickholdt 
formerly  found  only  2.18  per  cent,  corresponds  to  the 
formula  C,0H14O.  The  volatile  oil  is  laevorotatory,  and 
when  diluted  with  bisulphide  of  carbon  becomes,  accord- 
ing to  Fliickiger,  violet  by  the  action  of  bromine.  An 
extract  of  myrrh,  prepared  with  bisulphide  of  carbon, 
gives  the  same  reaction  with  bromine  vapor.  Hydro- 
chloric or  nitric  acid  also  colors  myrrh  violet,  which 
also  applies  to  the  volatile  oil. 


RESINS   AND    BALSAMS.  175 

Petroleum-ether  should,  at  the  utmost,  take  up  6  per 
cent,  of  the  myrrh,  and  the  extract  must  be  colorless. 

Myrrh  is  frequently  contaminated  with  bark,  which 
forms  either  a  film  of  cork  as  thick  as  paper  or  a  crust 
of  a  fibrous  and,  at  the  same  time,  brittle  nature.  Sand 
or  small  pebbles  are  also  frequently  mixed  with  the 
myrrh.  Other  varieties  of  gum  or  gum-resin,  which 
considerably  decrease  the  value  of  the  product,  are  often 
found  in  the  commercial  article,  the  inferior  qualities  espe- 
cially being  adulterated  and  mixed  with  dark  pieces  of 
Suakim  gum,  gum  of  the  plum  or  cherry  tree,  bdellium, 
and  similar  substances,  which  are  partially  moistened 
with  myrrh  tincture,  and  scattered  over  with  myrrh 
powder.  Adulteration  with  gum-arabic,  gum  of  the 
plum  or  cherry  tree,  which  are  coated  with  alcoholic 
myrrh  solution,  is  recognized  by  the  paler  lustre,  greater 
transparency,  and  mucilaginous  taste.  Pieces  of  resin 
melt  on  heating,  while  myrrh  only  swells  up.  Bdellium 
is  detected  by  the  dark  or  black-brown  color,  toughness, 
less  bitter  taste,  and  by  crackling  and  spitting  when  held 
in  the  flame  of  a  candle,  as  well  as  by  the  reaction  of 
myrrh  with  nitric  acid  discovered  by  Bonastre.  By  mix- 
ing 5  cubic  centimeters  of  alcoholic  myrrh  tincture  with 
5  to  10  drops  of  fuming  nitric  acid,  a  rose-color  coloration 
passing  into  red  results.  Parker  gives  the  following 
method  for  testing  myrrh  :  Prepare  a  tincture  of  1  part 
myrrh  and  6  parts  spirit  of  wine.  Saturate  with  this 
tincture  white  filtering  paper,  allow  it  to  drain  off,  and 
then  wrap  it  around  a  glass  rod  moistened  with  nitric 
acid  of  1.42  specific  gravity.  With  genuine  myrrh  the 
paper  immediately  becomes  deep  yellow-brown  and  then 
black,  while  the  edges  of  the  paper  strip  appear  dark 


176  MANUFACTURE   OF    PERFUMERY. 

purple-red.  When  a  few  drops  of  the  tincture  of  myrrh 
are  allowed  to  dry  in,  a  transparent  residue  remains 
behind.  The  tinctures  of  spurious  articles  (with  the  ex- 
ception of  bissabol)  give  turbid  residues. 

V  Myrrh  was  already  in  Moses's  time  an  article  used  in 
the  sacrifices  of  the  Israelites.  It  seems  to  have  been 
made  use  of  by  Democrates.  Dioscorides  enumerates 
eight  varieties  of  it,  and  Pliny  seven,  which  he  ob- 
tained from  Abyssinia.  Herodotus  and  Diodorus 
Siculus  mention  Arabia  as  the  home  of  the  myrrh  tree. 

\In  perfumery,  myrrh  is  chiefly  used  for  dentifrices 
and  fumigating  pastilles  and  essences.,  ' 

Opopanax  is  the  inspissated  juice  of  the  root  of  Opo- 
ponax  Chironium,  Koch,  or  Ferula  Opoponax,  L.  It 
forms  grains  or  lumps  of  a  red-yellow  or  brown  color, 
and  has  a  fracture  of  a  waxy  lustre.  It  can  be  rubbed 
to  a  gold-yellow  powder.  It  has  a  strong  and  peculiar 
odor,  and  a  very  bitter  and  balsamic  taste.  With  water 
it  forms  an  emulsion,  while  it  is  only  partially  soluble 
in  spirit  of  wine.  It  contains  very  little  volatile  oil, 
and  a  resin  which  melts  at  212°  F.,  and  is  soluble  in 
ether  and  aqueous  alkalies.  It  further  contains  gum, 
organic  and  inorganic  salts,  and  foreign  admixtures. 
Opopauax  is  but  little  used  in  perfumery.  For  Extraits 
the  opopanax  oil  is  better  adapted  than  the  tincture  pre- 
pared from  the  gum,  the  latter  coloring  the  JExtraitdark. 
^  Olibanum  or  Frankincense  is  the  inspissated  juice  of  va- 
rious varieties  of  Boswellia,  partially  indigenous  to  Africa 
and  partially  to  Asia.  The  pu  re  pieces  are  pale  yellow,  sel- 
dom reddish,  transparent,  or  opaque,  brittle,  covered  with 
a  mealy  coating  and  of  a  splintery  fracture.  The  specific- 
gravity  of  olibanum  is  1.22 ;  its  odor  is  slightly  balsamic, 
and  its  taste  bitter  and  pungent.  It  melts  only  incom- 


RESINS   AND   BALSAMS.  177 

pletely  when  exposed  to  heat,  diffusing  an  agreeable  odor. 
It  consists  in  100  parts  of  5  to  7  parts  of  a  clear  volatile 
oil,  boiling  at  323.6°  F.,  and  of  specific  gravity  0.86,  56 
parts  of  acid  resin,  and  30  to  36  parts  gum,  which  corre- 
sponds with  gum-arabic.  With  water  it  forms  a  milky 
fluid,  and  is  mostly  dissolved  by  spirit  of  wine.  Selected 
olibanum  (Olibanum  electum)  is  the  best  commercial  va- 
riety, while  Olibanum  naturale,  0.  in  lacrymis,  and  0. 
in  sortisj  form  darker  pieces  intermingled  with  separate 
paler  grains,  and  contaminated  by  pieces  of  bark,  and 
wood  and  sand. 

Olibanum  is  only  adulterated  with  saudarac  and 
naturally  exuded  pine  resin,  inspissated  to  tears  by  ex- 
posure to  the  air.  The  former  is  recognized  by  the 
fracture  being  glassy  and  transparent,  and  the  latter  by 
completely  dissolving  to  a  clear  solution  in  spirit  of  wine. 

Olibanum  serves  as  an  addition  to  fumigating  pas- 
tilles, etc. 

Sandarac  is  the  resin  exuding  from  the  bark  of  Thuja 
artieulata,  Desf.,  or  CaUitris  quadrivalvis,  Vent.,  which 
grows  in  Barbary.  It  forms  pale  yellow,  transparent, 
brittle  grains  with  a  glassy  fracture,  which  have  a  spe- 
cific gravity  of  1.06  to  1.09  and  fuse  readily.  Its  odor 
is  slightly  balsamic  and  its  taste  somewhat  bitter.  San- 
darac softens  at  212°  F.  and  melts  at  275°  F.  It  dis- 
solves in  hot  absolute  alcohol,  ether,  and  amyl  alcohol, 
is  less  soluble  in  chloroform,  petroleum-ether,  and  vola- 
tile oils,  and  insoluble  in  benzol.  In  90  per  cent,  alco- 
hol |  of  it  dissolve ;  the  term  sandaracin  has  been  ap- 
plied to  the  insoluble  portion.  According  to  Unver- 
dorben,  sandarac  consists  of  three  different  resins.  It 
is  sometimes  employed  in  fumigating  pastilles. 
12 


178  MANUFACTURE   OF   PERFUMERY. 


CHAPTER  VI. 

PERFUME-SUBSTANCES    FROM   THE    ANIMAL    KINGDOM. 

MUSK  is  a  peculiar  concrete  secretion  obtained  from 
Moschus  mochiferus,  L.,  an  animal  bearing  a  close  re- 
semblance to  the  deer  in  shape  and  size,  and  indigenous 
to  the  high  plateaus  of  Asia.  The  musk  is  contained 
in  an  oval,  hairy,  projecting  sac,  found  only  in  the 
male,  situated  between  the  umbilicus  and  the  prepuce. 
It  is  from  2  to  3  inches  long  and  from  1  to  2  broad. 

In  commerce,  several  varieties  of  musk  are  distin- 
guished, the  principal  ones,  however,  being  Tonkin  and 
Kabardin  musk. 

Tonkin,  Thibet,  or  Oriental  music,  Yunnan  music  (Mos- 
chus tonquinensis,  or  wientalis,  or  transgangetanus)  is  the 
best  variety.  It  comes  from  China,  Tonkin,  and  Thibet. 
It  consists  of  sacs  of  a  puifed-up  appearance,  more  round- 
ish than  longish,  varying  in  size,  being  at  the  utmost  1.77 
inches  long,  up  to  1.57  inches  broad  and  0.59  to  1.18 
inches  thick,  and  weighing  from  8.46  drachms  to  1  oz. 
9.39  drachms  each.  The  hairy  side  of  the  sac  is  con- 
cave and  the  other  flat.  Fig.  21  shows  an  unshorn 
Tonkin  musk  sac  of  medium  size  from  the  concave  or 
hairy  side  and  Fig.  22  the  same  from  the  side.  The 
envelop  of  the  sac  consists  of  a  double  skin,  the  outer 
skin  being  gray-brown.  One  side  of  the  sac  is  covered 
with  stiff,  yellowish  hair  with  red-brown  points,  gener- 


PERFUME-SUBSTANCES  FROM  ANIMAL  KINGDOM.      179 

ally  cut  short.  The  original  packages,  containing  usu- 
ally 24  sacs  each,  consist  of  longish,  four-cornered 
boxes  lined  with  lead-foil  and  covered  outside  with 
some  silken  stuff.  Each  sac  is  separately  wrapped  in 
tissue  paper.  The  musk-substance  appears  as  a  dark 
red  to  black-brown  mass  intermingled  with  hair,  and 
forming  roundish  grains.  The  odor  is  penetrating  and 
the  taste  bitter. 

Kabardm,  Siberian,  or  Russian  musk  (Moschus  sibirius, 
or  cabardinicus)  is  a  cheaper  variety  of  an  inferior  qual- 
ity, which  is  brought  from  Mongolia  and  Siberia.  The 
sacs  (Fig.  23)  are  longish,  generally  pear-shaped,  flatter 
in  proportion  to  their  longitudinal  and  latitudinal  dimen- 
sions, and  not  of  a  puffed-up  appearance,  the  surface 
being  frequently  even  shrivelled  or  wrinkled.  The  outer 


FIG.  21. 


FIG.  22. 


FIG.  23. 


skin  is  denser  and  harder,,  and  on  the  convex  side  cov- 
ered with  longer  hair  (up  to  0.9  inch  long),  of  nearly  a 
silver  or  brownish  color.  Towards  the  edge  of  the  sac 
the  hairs  are,  however,  frequently  so  trimmed  and  shorn 


180  MANUFACTURE   OF   PERFUMERY. 

as  to  give  the  sac  a  resemblance  to  the  Tonkin  article. 
The  musk-substance  inclosed  in  the  sac  amounts  to  from 
8.46  drachms  to  1  oz.  It  is  somewhat  paler,  more 
brown  or  yellow-brown,  soft,  almost  unctuous,  when 
fresh,  but  after  storing,  solid  or  granular-pulverulent, 
like  ground,  burnt  coffee.  The  odor  is  weak,  offensive, 
more  urinose,  resembling  that  of  castor,  or  horse  sweat. 

Moschus  ex  vesicis  is  said  to  be  the  musk  taken  from 
Tonkin  sacs.  As  a  rule,  however,  it  consists  of  a  mix- 
ture of  musk  substance  taken  from  good  sacs  which  pre- 
sent a  bad  appearance,  or  have  been  torn,  and  from  sacs 
of  an  inferior  quality,  frequently  adulterated  with  for- 
eign substances,  such  as  dried  blood,  dung  of  birds, 
weathered  bicarbonate  of  soda,  etc. 

To  open  a  musk  sac,  cut  it  with  a  sharp  penknife 
around  where  the  hairless  side  joints  the  hairy  side,  and 
empty  it  by  scraping  it  out  upon  a  sheet  of  paper.  The 
membranes  and  hair  are  then  removed  by  means  of 
pincers. 

The  musk-substance  of  the  Tonkin  sacs  is  generally 
a  heavy,  dry-feeling  mass;  it  is  partially  intermingled 
with  and  partially  enveloped  by  small,  thin,  soft,  brown, 
somewhat  transparent  membranes  and  frequently  mixed 
with  small  hair.  It  is  partially  loose  and  crummy,  and 
partially  consists  of  various  lumps  or  grains  of  the  size 
of  a  mustard  seed  to  that  of  a  pea,  which  are  more  or 
less  roundish,  more  seldom  angular,  softer  or  harder 
(but  can  always  be  readily  cut),  of  a  fatty  lustre  and 
black-brown  or  dark-red  color.  In  fresh  sacs,  the  mass 
is  frequently  soft,  and,  when  bruised,  somewhat  smeary, 
but  never  unctuous.  On  rubbing,  it  becomes  paler  in 
color,  and  glistening  hair-like,  paler,  gray  or  whitish- 


PERFUME-SUBSTANCES  FROM  ANIMAL  KINGDOM.      181 

yellow  particles,  sometimes  of  a  crystalline  texture, 
appear.  The  odor  of  the  musk  substance  is  peculiar, 
strong,  and  very  constant;  it  is  agreeable  only  when 
much  diluted. 

Musk  is  not  a  substance  of  a  constant  chemical  and 
physical  constitution,  the  reason  for  this  being  found  in 
the  age  and  the  different  foods  of  the  musk  animal,  the 
season  in  which  it  is  killed,  and  the  degree  of  dryness 
of  the  musk-substance.  Water  dissolves  f  of  good 
musk  and  90  per  cent,  alcohol  J.  The  alcoholic  solu- 
tion is  not  precipitated  by  water.  Musk  further  con- 
tains fat-like  substances,  wax,  gall-substances  (together 
10  to  12  per  cent.),  glue-substances  and  albumen  (6  to 
9  per  cent.),  traces  of  lactic  and  butyric  acids,  phosphates, 
sulphates  and  hydrochlorates  of  the  alkalies  and  alkaline 
earths,  frequently  strong  traces  of  ammonium  carbonate 
and  a  volatile  oil,  further  moisture,  humus-substance, 
and  fibrous  matter. 

Musk,  when  dried,  has  a  weak  odor,  which  gradually 
becomes  stronger  on  moistening.  There  are  several  sub- 
stances which  destroy  the  musk  odor,  especially  bitter 
almonds,  camphor,  sulphur,  acids  and  sulphates.  The 
odor  adhering  to  a  mortar  in  which  musk  has  been 
rubbed  can  best  be  removed  by  pounding  bitter  almonds 
in  it. 

Since,  on  account  of  the  high  price  of  musk,  the  musk 
animal  is  much  hunted,  there  is  a  possibility  of  it  be- 
oming  in  time  extinct.  For  this  reason  a  substitute 
has  been  long  searched  for,  and  is  believed  to  have 
been  found,  especially,  in  the  American  musk-rat 
(Fiber  zibdhicus),  which  is  chiefly  hunted  for  its  skin. 
In  this  animal  the  musk  is  found  in  two  small  sacs 


182  MANUFACTURE   OF   PERFUMERY. 

located  between  the  anus  and  generative  organs,  and  is 
emitted  when  the  animal  becomes  excited.  According 
to  R.  S.  Cristiani,  this  musk  is  invaluable  for  the 
toilet  soap  industry  of  America,  it  being  nearly  as  good 
and  strong  as  genuine  musk.  Cristiani  has  formerly 
used  much  of  it  for  scenting  soaps,  powders,  etc.,  but 
does  not  recommend  it  for  essences.  When  used  for 
soaps,  some  time  is  required  for  the  odor  to  become  re- 
fined, and  if  a  piece  of  soap  scented  with  it  is  stored 
for  a  few  months,  it  would,  according  to  Crist  iani's 
assertion,  be  difficult  even  for  an  expert  perfumer  to 
distinguish  the  odor  from  that  of  genuine  Tonkin  musk. 

As  possible  substitutes  for  the  musk  deer  may  further 
be  mentioned  a  species  of  rat  indigenous  to  the  West 
Indies,  and  an  antelope  of  North  Africa.  It  is  also 
said  that  musk  derived  from  the  Mississippi  alligator 
has  been  brought  into  commerce.  The  sacs  are  said  to 
be  small,  the  odor  somewhat  different  from  that  of 
genuine  musk,  resembling  that  of  civet,  but  suitable  for 
perfuming  purposes. 

A  process  for  the  preparation  of  artificial  musk  has 
been  patented  by  Dr.  Baur,  of  Gispersleben.  According 
to  the  specification,  toluol  is  mixed  with  the  halogen 
compounds  of  butane  and  boiled  with  the  addition  of 
aluminium  chloride  or  aluminium  bromide.  The  pro- 
duct of  the  reaction  is  mixed  with  water  and  distilled 
with  steam.  The  fraction  passing  over  between  338°  and 
392°  F.  is  caught  and  treated  with  fuming  nitric  acid 
and  fuming  sulphuric  acid.  The  product  obtained  is 
washed  with  water  and  alcohol,  and  crystallized.  The 
artificial  musk  forms  an  amorphous  white  powder, 
which  in  time  becomes  yellow.  It  is  readily  soluble 


PERFUME-SUBSTANCES  FROM  ANIMAL  KINGDOM.      183 

in  90  per  cent,  alcohol,  but  from  solutions  in  weaker 
alcohol  it  again  crystallizes  out  at  a  cool  temperature. 
The  odor  becomes  very  pronounced  after  the  addition  of 
5  drops  of  ammonia  to  1  pound  of  a  one  per  cent, 
solution. 

This  artificial  product  having  been  in  existence  but 
for  a  short  time,  it  is  not  possible  to  come  to  a  final  con- 
clusion as  to  its  availability.  However,  its  odor  differs 
essentially  from  that  of  the  genuine  article,  and  it  can 
scarcely  be  employed  for  fine  extracts;  if  low  enough  in 
price  it  might,  however,  be  suitable  for  soaps  and 
cheaper  perfumes. 

Musk  is  very  much  adulterated,  the  Chinese  being 
adepts  in  this  sophistication.  Dried  blood,  on  account 
of  its  resemblance  to  musk,  is  among  the  most  common 
adulterations,  but,  besides  this,  sand,  iron  filings,  hair, 
the  dung  of  birds,  wax,  asphaltum,  and  many  other 
substances  are  introduced.  They  are  mixed  with  a 
small  portion  of  musk,  the  powerful  odor  of  which  is 
communicated  to  the  entire  mass,  and  renders  the  dis- 
covery of  the  fraud  sometimes  difficult.  The  bags  con- 
taining the  musk  should  have  the  characteristics  before 
described  as  belonging  to  the  natural  sac,  and  present 
no  sign  of  having  been  opened.  One  of  the  grossest 
frauds,  which  is  also  perpetrated  in  Europe,  consists, 
according  to  Hager,  in  perforating  the  musk  sac  with  a 
needle,  placing  it  in  strong  rum  or  weak  spirit  of  wine, 
and,  after  pressing  it  with  the  fingers,  washing  with  spirit 
of  wine  and  drying  in  the  air.  By  this  means  a  tincture 
suitable  for  perfuming  purposes  is  obtained,  while  the 
musk-substance  is  increased  in  weight  by  the  absorption 
of  moisture.  Sacs  thus  treated  are,  however,  readily 


184  MANUFACTURE   OF   PERFUMERY. 

recognized,  they  being,  after  drying,  gnarled  and  un- 
even. 

Good  musk-sacs  should  yield  from  50  to  60  per  cent, 
of  musk.  An  admixture  of  blood  is  detected  by  the 
musk  acquiring  a  putrid  odor  when  moistened  with 
water.  The  presence  of  pieces  of  metal,  pebbles,  resin, 
etc.,  is  recognized  by  the  naked  eye  or  with  the  assistance 
of  a  magnifying  glass.  The  microscope  reveals,  in  pure 
musk,  white  and  brownish,  irregularly-formed  grains, 
cells,  oil  drops,  and,  generally,  also  fungoid  threads. 
Genuine  musk  burns  with  a  white  flame  and  leaves  a 
gray  ash,  which  should  not  amount  to  more  than  from 
5  to  8  per  cent. 

In  perfumery  musk  is  used  for  soap,  sachet  powders, 
and  extracts.  By  itself  it  is,  however,  scarcely  employed, 
not  even  for  the  so-called  musk  soaps  or  musk  extracts. 
It  is  chiefly  valued  by  the  perfumer  for  its  property  of 
rendering  other  perfumes  used  in  combination  with  it 
more  durable  and  bringing  out  their  scent.  For  scent- 
ing soaps  the  musk  must  first  be  prepared.  If  to  be 
used  for  milled  soaps,  it  is  triturated  in  a  mortar  with 
clear  sugar,  while  for  cold  stirred  soaps,  weak  potash 
lye  of  at  the  utmost  3°  to  5°  Be.  is  poured  over  it. 
Weak  lye  makes  the  odor  more  pronounced,  while  strong 
lye  destroys  it. 

^  Civet  (zibethum)  is  derived  from  two  animals  of  the 
AM  genus  Viverra.  The  actual  civet  cat  (  Viverra  eivetta,  L.) 
lives  in  the  hottest  parts  of  Africa  from  the  Guinea  Coast 
and  the  Senegal  to  Abyssinia,  where  it  is  carefully  bred 
for  its  civet.  The  product  is  also  obtained  from  Viverra 
zibetha,  L.,  indigenous  to  the  Moluccas  and  Philippines. 
The  civet  is  secreted  in  a  cavity  between  the  anus  and 


PERFUME-SUBSTANCES  FROM  ANIMAL  KINGDOM.       185 

the  external  genitals,  and  is  scraped  out  with  a  spoon. 
It  is  serai-liquid,  unctuous,  yellowish,  becoming  brown 
and  thicker  by  exposure  to  the  air,  of  a  bitter,  disagree- 
able, fatty  taste,  and  of  a  peculiar,  urinose,  disagreeable 
odor,  resembling  that  of  musk  which  becomes  agree- 
able only  when  much  diluted  and  mixed  with  other 
perfumes.  When  ignited  it  burns  with  a  bright  flame, 
leaving  behind  3  to  4  per  cent,  of  ash.  It  is  insoluble 
in  water;  in  spirit  of  wine  it  partially  dissolves  with 
difficulty,  and  with  greater  ease  in  warm  ether  and  in 
chloroform.  It  should  form  a  homogeneous,  non-crum- 
bling mass.  According  to  M.  Boutron  Chalard,  it  con- 
tains free  ammonia,  stearin,  olein,  mucus,  resin,  a  yellow 
coloring  substance,  salts,  and  a  volatile  oil,  the  latter 
giving  the  odor  to  it.  In  perfumery,  civet  is  chiefly  used 
as  an  addition  to  other  perfumes  in  order  to  strengthen 
them  and  make  them  more  constant.  It  is  also  employed 
for  perfuming  fine  leather  articles.  l 

Castor  or  castweum  is  a  peculiar  concrete  substance 
obtained  from  Castor  fiber  or  the  beaver.     In  both  sexes 
between  the  anus  and  external  genitals 
are   two  pear-shaped  sac-like  follicles          FIG.  24. 
(Fig.   24)   united   at  their   thin   ends. 
The    follicles   contain,    when   fresh,    a 
semi-liquid   substance   which    becomes 
more  solid  by  drying.     The  castor  oc- 
curring in  commerce  is  generally  dried 
by  smoke. 

In  commerce  two  principal  varieties 
are  distinguished  :   Siberian  or  Russian 
and  Canadian,  English  or  American  castor,  the  first 
being  the  mo&t  valuable.     The  length  of  a  Siberian  sac 


186  MANUFACTURE   OF   PERFUMERY. 

varies  between  2.36  and  4.72  inches,  the  width  between 
0.98  and  2.55  inches,  and  the  thickness  between  0.78 
and  1.57  inches;  it  weighs  from  1.76  to  8.81  ozs.  One 
of  the  sacs  is  generally  somewhat  smaller  than  the  other. 
The  exterior  skin  of  the  sac  is  almost  smooth  and,  in  a 
dry  state,  dark  brown  ;  the  interior  is  dirty  yellow,  inter- 
mixed with  a  dense  cellular  tissue,  which  envelops  the 
castor-substance  and  is  grown  together  with  it.  In  a 
dried  state,  the  latter  is  dark  brown,  without  lustre, 
almost  friable,  of  a  very  strong,  peculiar  odor,  and  a 
pungent,  somewhat  bitter,  aromatic  taste. 

The  sacs  of  Canadian  castor  are  smaller  than  the 
Siberian,  they  being  at  the  utmost  3.15  inches  long, 
0.98  inch  thick,  and  darker  and  uneven.  The  interior 
mass  is  resinous,  hard,  with  a  lustrous  fracture,  red- 
brown,  and  can  be  readily  pulverized.  The  odor  is 
weaker,  somewhat  musty  and  ammoniacal,  and  the  taste 
more  bitter  and  less  pungent  than  that  of  the  Siberian 
castor. 

Castor  is  much  adulterated — pebbles,  pieces  of  lead, 
dried  blood,  etc.,  being  frequently  found  in  the  sacs. 
These  frauds  can  generally  be  detected  in  cutting  the  sac? 
open.  Spurious  sacs  are  said  to  be  frequently  found 
among  the  genuine  sacs  of  Canadian  castor.  These 
spurious  sacs  are  prepared  by  drying  a  mixture  of  castor, 
resin,  dragons'  blood,  etc.,  in  the  scrotum  of  goats. 

In  perfumery,  castor  is  now  very  seldom  used,  the 
perfumers  preferring  musk  and  civet,  which,  certainly, 
give  a  somewhat  different  scent. 

Ambergris  is  a  fatty,  waxy  substance,  often  found  float- 
ing on  the  sea  on  the  coasts  of  Arabia,  Madagascar,  Japan, 
etc.  It  is  also  found  in  the  caecum  of  the  sperm  whale 


PERFUME-SUBSTANCES  FROM  ANIMAL  KINGDOM.      187 

(Physetus  macrocephalus,  Schow)^  and  is  supposed  by 
some  to  be  a  morbid  secretion  in  the  urinary  bladder. 
According  to  Mr.  Beale,  it  merely  consists  of  the  indu- 
rated faeces  of  the  animal,  perhaps  somewhat  altered  by 
disease.  It  has  a  gray-white  color,  often  with  a  black 
streak  and  a  slight  agreeable  odor,  like  that  of  benzoin, 
which  becomes  more  pronounced  on  heating.  When 
held  for  some  time  in  the  hand  it  becomes  soft  and 
flexible.  It  melts  at  the  temperature  of  boiling  water, 
and,  when  more  strongly  heated,  volatilizes  in  the  form 
of  a  white  vapor,  leaving  but  slight  traces  of  ash  behind. 
Its  specific  gravity  is  0.8  to  0.9.  It  is  insoluble  in 
water,  sparingly  soluble  in  cold  spirit  of  wine,  and 
more  readily  so  in  hot  spirit  of  wine,  ether  and  volatile 
and  fat  oils.  It  is  almost  completely  soluble  in  absolute 
alcohol.  Though  ambergris  crumbles  readily,  it  can 
only  with  difficulty  be  converted  into  coarse  powder. 
With  the  finger  it  can  be  polished  like  hard  soda-soap. 

The  principal  constituent  of  ambergris  is  ambrin  or 
ambrein,  a  non-saponifiable  fat,  which,  from  a  saturated 
alcoholic  solution  of  ambergris,  crystallizes,  after  stand- 
ing for  some  time,  in  the  form  of  verrucose,  whitish  or 
lustrous  acicular  crystals.  According  to  John,  ambergris 
consists  of  85  per  cent,  ambrin,  12.5  per  cent,  sweet 
balsamic  extract,  further  benzoic  acid,  sodium  chloride, 
and  1.5  per  cent,  insoluble  brown  residue.  When  dis- 
tilled with  water,  ambergris  yields  13  per  cent,  of  a 
volatile  oil  having  an  agreeable  odor.  A  red-hot  iron 
wire  readily  penetrates  ambergris,  and  from  the  hole  thus 
made  flows  an  oily  liquid  of  a  strong  and  agreeable 
odor. 

On  account  of  its  high  price,  ambergris  is  frequently 


188  MANUFACTURE   OF   PERFUMERY. 

adulterated,  the  commercial  article  being  often  nothing 
but  an  artificial  mixture  of  benzoin,  olibanum,  wax,  and 
flo'ur,  with  other  substances,  perfumed  with  musk.  Such 
adulterations  are  detected  by  the  appearance,  proportions 
of  solubility,  nature  of  the  fracture  and  the  content  of 
ash.  A  small  quantity  of  pure  ambergris,  exposed  to 
heat,  melts  without  forming  bubbles  or  scum.  It  is 
easily  punctured  with*  a  heated  needle,  which,  when 
withdrawn,  should  come  out  clean  and  without  anything 
adhering  to  it,  and  the  characteristic  odor  of  ambergris 
should  be  immediately  evolved.  The  surface  should  be 
rugged,  that  with  a  smooth  and  uniform  surface  being 
generally  factitious. 

In  perfumery,  ambergris  is  not  so  much  used  on 
account  of  its  agreeable  odor,  but  rather  to  make  the 
perfumes  more  constant. 


ARTIFICIAL    PERFUME-MATERIALS.  189 


CHAPTER  VII. 

ARTIFICIAL    PERFUME-MATERIALS. 

IN  speaking  of  the  volatile  oils  used  in  perfumery, 
two  artificial  perfume-materials,  artificial  oils  of  bitter 
almonds  and  wintergreen  have  already  been  mentioned. 
There  can  be  no  doubt  that  when  the  chemical  construc- 
tion of  volatile  oils  is  better  known,  chemistry  will  suc- 
ceed in  preparing  still  more  such  combinations,  valuable 
for  perfumery,  or  in  converting  cheap  volatile  oils  into 
more  valuable  ones,  as  has,  for  instance,  been  done  by 
Bouchardat  and  Lafont,  who  have  successfully  converted 
oil  of  turpentine  into  oil  of  lemons.  These  chemists 
rectified  French  oil  of  turpentine  at  exactly  311°  to 
314.6°  F.,  dissolved  in  the  distillate,  which  amounted 
to  120  grammes,  an  equal  quantity  (120  grammes)  of 
glacial  acetic  acid,  cooled  the  mixture  and  then  carefully 
added,  so  that  the  temperature  never  exceeded  104°  F., 
88  grammes  of  crystallized  chromic  acid  dissolved  in  a 
sufficient  quantity  of  acetic  acid.  Notwithstanding  that 
the  greater  portion  of  the  oil  of  turpentine  remained  un- 
oxidized,  a  thorough  reaction  took  place,  and  the  product 
of  decomposition  proved  to  be  a  hydrocarbon,  boiling  at 
from  345.2°  to  352.4°  F.,  to  which  Bouchardat  and 
Lafont  have  applied  the  term  "terpilene."  The  prop- 
erties of  this  hydrocarbon,  especially  its  boiling  point, 
corresponded  with  those  of  oil  of  lemons,  its  odor  also 


190  MANUFACTURE   OF   PERFUMERY. 

resembling  that  of  the  latter,  but  it  contained  about  one- 
sixth  cymol  which  it  was  impossible  to  remove.  Though 
thus  far  this  artificial  oil  of  lemons  is  of  no  importance 
for  perfumery,  it  is  of  interest  as  showing  the  possibility 
of  converting  one  volatile  oil  into  another. 

The  artificial  musk,  spoken  of  under  "  Musk/7  cannot 
be  classed  with  the  previously-mentioned  artificial  per- 
fumed-materials. The  odoriferous  principle  of  the 
natural  and  artificial  musk  have  nothing  in  common, 
the  odor  depending  not  on  a  common  chemical  com- 
bination. 

Besides  the  artificial  perfume-materials  already  men- 
tioned, but  a  few  others  are  employed  in  perfumery, 
viz :  Cumarin,  hetiotropin,  vanillin,  and  nitrobenzol,  or 
oil  of  mirbane.  Another  series  of  artificial  perfume- 
materials,  the  so-called  fruit  ethers,  have  also  been 
recommended  for  perfumery  purposes.  Although  such 
products  are  sometimes  used,  their  employment  is  not 
advisable,  since  they  produce  an  irritating  effect  upon 
the  bronchial  tubes  and  respiratory  organs,  and  fre- 
quently cause  headache. 

Cumarin.— The  agreeable  odor  of  new-mown  hay  is 
chiefly  due  to  the  sweet-scented  vernal  grass  (Anthoxan- 
thum  odoratum,  Z.).  This  grass  contains  an  odoriferous 
substance,  the  cumarin.  The  latter  is  also  found  in 
many  other  plants ;  for  instance,  in  the  tonka  bean  (the 
seeds  of  Dipterix  odorata),  in  the  sweet  woodruff  (As- 
perula  odorata),  and,  combined  with  melilotic  acid,  in 
the  melilot  (Melilotus  officinalis,  Descr.). 

Cumarin  forms  small,  colorless  crystals  of  a  silky 
lustre.  It  is  very  hard,  cracks  between  the  teeth, 
shows  a  smooth  fracture,  and  sinks  in  water.  It  has 


ARTIFICIAL   PERFUME-MATERIALS.  191 

a  very  agreeable  aromatic  odor,  which,  on  rubbing  the 
substance  with  the  fingers,  becomes  like  that  of  oil  of 
bitter  almonds,  and  has  a  bitter,  warm,  and  pungent  taste. 
When  pure  it  melts  at  152.6°  F.,  but  when  containing 
fat,  like  that  separated  from  tonka  beans,  at  from  104° 
to  122°  F.  Its  boiling  point  lies  at  554°  F. ;  it  vola- 
tilizes, however,  at  far  lower  temperatures,  diffusing  an 
odor  resembling  that  of  oil  of  bitter  almonds,  and  sub- 
limating in  white  needles.  It  is  soluble  in  alcohol, 
ether,  acetic  acid,  fat,  and  volatile  oils.  Of  cold  water 
(59°  F.)  400  parts  are,  according  to  Buchner,  required 
for  its  solution,  but  of  boiling  water  only  45  parts. 

Tonka  beans  are  the  ripe  seeds  of  Dipterix  odorata. 
They  are  much  used  in  perfumery  on  account  of  their 
content  of  cumarin,  aud  formerly  constituted  the  initial 
point  for  its  manufacture.  In  commerce  two  varieties 
are  distinguished,  viz.,  Dutch  tonka  beans,  derived  from 
Dipterix  odorata,  Willd.,  indigenous  to  the  forests  of 
Guiana,  and  English  tonka  beans,  from  Dipterix  oppo- 
sitifolia,  Willd.,  indigenous  to  Cayenne. 

The  Dutch  tonka  bean  is  1.18  to  1.57  inches  long, 
0.39  to  0.59  inch  wide,  and  0.27  to  0.43  inch  thick.  It 
is  generally  slightly  curved,  provided  under  the  point 
with  the  hilum,  and  covered  with  a  thin,  fragile,  brown- 
black  or  black  skin  of  a  fatty  lustre,  upon  which  small 
crystals  of  cumarin  are  generally  found,  so  that  it  ap- 
pears coated,  especially  in  the  wrinkles,  with  a  whitish 
dust.  The  kernel  consists  of  two  yellow-brownish  oleife- 
rous  catyledons,  between  which  layers  of  cumarin  are 
generally  found.  The  odor  is  agreeable,  resembling 
that  of  melilot,  and  the  taste  aromatic  bitter.  Dutch 
tonka  beans  contain  fat,  sugar,  malic  acid,  and  malate 


192  MANUFACTURE  OF  PERFUMERY. 

of  lime ;  further,  starch,  gum,  and  1  to  5  per  cent,  of 
cumarin  (C9H6O¥).  The  English  tonka  beans  are 
smaller,  white-yellowish  inside,  nearly  black  outside, 
and  of  inferior  quality  to  the  Dutch  beans. 

From  tonka  beans,  cumarin  may  be  obtained  by  two 
different  methods.  One  method  consists  in  repeatedly 
extracting  the  bruised  beans  with  spirit  of  wine,  distill- 
ing the  latter  off  from  the  extract,  and  mixing  the  resi- 
due with  cold  water,  whereby  cumarin  contaminated 
with  fat  is  precipitated.  To  remove  the  fat,  bring  the 
whole  to  the  boiling  point,  filter  the  hot  solution 
through  a  moist  filter  upon  which  the  fat  is  retained, 
and  allow  to  cool,  whereby  the  greater  portion  of  the 
cumarin  crystallizes  out;  the  remaining  small  portion 
is  obtained  by  evaporating  the  mother-lye. 

According  to  the  other  method,  the  bruised  tonka 
beans  are  distilled  with  water.  After  24  hours  the 
greater  portion  of  the  cumarin  separates  in  a  crystalline 
form.  The  residue  remaining  in  solution  can  be  with- 
drawn from  the  water  by  shaking  with  petroleum-ether 
and  subsequent  evaporation  of  the  solvent.  From  one 
pound  of  good  tonka  beans,  up  to  4  drachms  of  cumarin 
may  be  obtained. 

Cumarin  is  sometimes  also  obtained  by  purifying  by 
recrystallization  the  debris  found  in  the  original  boxes 
of  tonka  beans,  which  chiefly  consists  of  cumarin. 

Perkin  has  recently  succeeded  in  artificially  preparing 
cumarin  from  salicylic  acid.  By  boiling  the  sodium 
salt  of  the  latter  in  acetic  anhydride  for  a  few  minutes 
and  then  pouring  into  water,  an  oil-like  body  is  sepa- 
rated, whilst  sodium  acetate  passes  into  solution.  The 
former  is  a  mixture  of  acetic  anhydride,  salicylic  acid 


ARTIFICIAL    PERFUME-MATERIALS.  193 

and  curaariD  ;  in  distilling,  the  latter  passes  over  last 
(at  554°  F.),  and  congeals  in  the  receiver  to  a  crystalline 
mass. 

Cumarin  is  now  synthetically  prepared  by  several 
firms,  that  brought  into  the  market  by  Schimmel  &  Co., 
of  Leipsic,  especially  being  of  excellent  quality.  Al- 
though artificial  cumarin  is  considerably  lower  in  price 
than  that  obtained  from  tonka  beans,  most  perfumers 
still  prefer  the  extract  from  tonka  beans  prepared  by 
themselves.  There  is,  however,  no  good  reason  for  this, 
since  a  change  in  the  respective  receipts  for  perfumes 
presents  no  difficulties,  8.46  drachms  of  curnarin  corre- 
sponding to  2.2  Ibs.  of  best  tonka  beans. 

Heliotropin  or  piper onal  is  of  great  importance  in 
the  manufacture  of  perfumes.  It  forms  small,  colorless 
prismatic  crystals,  which  have  an  agreeable  odor  of  heli- 
otrope. Upon  the  tongue  heliotropin  produces  the  same 
sensation  as  oil  of  peppermint  under  the  same  conditions, 
the  sensation  being,  however,  more  lasting.  It  melts  at 
about  104°  F.,  and  volatilizes  at  a  higher  temperature 
without  leaving  a  residue.  It  is  soluble  in  alcohol  and 
ether,  and  insoluble  in  cold  water ;  in  hot  water  it  melts 
to  an  oily  liquid  which  floats  upon  the  water. 

Exposed  to  the  action  of  heat  and  air,  heliotropin  ac- 
quires an  uncomely  appearance,  balls  together  and,  under 
very  unfavorable  circumstances,  turns  brown.  It  is 
then  entirely  decomposed  and  useless,  and,  hence,  should 
be  kept  in  summer  in  as  cool  a  place  as  possible.  A 
temperature  of  95°  F.  has  already  an  injurious  effect 
upon  the  perfume,  and  it  is  best  not  to  buy  it  at  all  in 
the  hot  summer  months.  To  preserve  the  perfume  in 
its  entire  freshness,  it  is  advisable  for  consumers  in  hot 
13 


194  MANUFACTURE   OF    PERFUMERY. 

climates  to  at  once  dissolve  the  heliotropin  in  alcohol 
and  to  keep  the  solution  in  a  cool  place. 

Pepper  serves  as  the  initial  point  for  heliotropin  or 
piperonal,  the  white  variety  being  the  best  for  the  pur- 
pose. To  obtain  piperine,  contained  in  varying  quan- 
ties  (7  to  9  per  cent.)  in  pepper,  the  latter  is  repeatedly 
extracted  with  boiling  alcohol.  The  extract  is  then 
evaporated  to  one-third  its  volume,  or  the  greater  por- 
tion of  the  alcohol  is  distilled  off,  and  the  resinous  mass, 
obtained  after  the  addition  of  water,  is  repeatedly  washed 
in  water  with  the  addition  of  a  small  quantity,  of  potash 
or  soda  lye,  dissolved  in  alcohol  and  purified  by  repeated 
recrystallization.  To  convert  the  white-yellow  piperine 
thus  obtained  into  potassium  piperate  it  is,  together  with 
equal  parts  of  potassium  hydroxide  and  5  to  6  parts  of 
alcohol,  kept  gently  boiling  for  24  hours  in  a  well-closed 
flask  provided  with  an  ascending  Liebig  cooler.  A  ca- 
pacious flask  should  be  used,  as  the  mass  pounds  quite 
vigorously.  After  cooling,  the  precipitate,  which  is  ob- 
tained in  yellowish,  lustrous  lamina,  is  separated  through 
a  filter  from  the  dark-brown  mother-lye,  washed  with 
cold  alcohol  and  several  times  recry stall i zed  from  hot 
water.  A  further  discoloration  may  be  effected  by  the 
addition  of  animal  charcoal. 

The  potassium  piperate  thus  obtained  forms  nearly 
colorless  prisms  in  verucose  groups,  which,  however, 
turn  yellow  when  exposed  to  light.  By  boiling  the 
alcoholic  mother-lye  with  -J  of  the  previously  used  potash- 
lye,  further  small  quantities  of  potassium  piperate  may 
be  obtained. 

To  obtain  piperonal  from  the  potassium  piperate,  dis- 
solve 1  part  of  the  latter  in  40  to  50  parts  of  hot  water, 


ARTIFICIAL    PERFUME-MATERIALS.  195 

and  then  slowly  introduce,  with  constant  stirring,  a  solu- 
tion of  2  parts  potassium  permanganate  in  50  parts  of 
water.  This  precaution  is  absolutely  necessary,  as  other- 
wise the  piperonal  formed  would  be  partially  further  oxi- 
dized and  lost.  The  paste-like  mass  formed  is  passed, 
while  still  hot,  through  a  straining  cloth,  and  the  residue 
repeatedly  washed  with  boiling  water  until  it  shows 
nothing  more  of  the  characteristic  odor  of  heliotrope. 
The  wash-waters  are  combined  with  the  first  filtrate, 
and  subjected  to  distillation  over  a  free  fire. 

The  first  distillates  are  richest  in  piperonal,  it  gener- 
ally separating  already  in  the  cooler.  The  fractionally 
caught  distillate  is  allowed  to  stand  one  or  two  days  in 
as  cool  a  place  as  possible,  whereby  the  greater  portion 
of  the  piperonal  separates  in  a  crystalline  form  or  in  fine 
lamina.  To  obtain  the  piperonal  still  remaining  dis- 
solved in  the  water,  the  mother-lye,  after  the  separation 
of  the  crystals  through  a  filter,  may  be  repeatedly  agi- 
tated with  ether,  whereby  the  piperonal  dissolves  in  the 
ether.  The  latter  is  carefully  distilled  off  at  as  low  a 
temperature  as  possible  (104°  to  122°  F.)  in  the  water- 
bath  or  allowed  naturally  to  evaporate. 

Vanillin. — Vanilla  is  the  not  entirely  ripe,  pod-like, 
capsular  fruit  (wrongly  called  pod),  of  a  tropical  orchid 
(Vanilla  plani/olia,  Andrews),  which  is  cultivated  in 
Mexico,  the  West  Indies,  and  South  America.  It  is 
extensively  used  for  flavoring,  and  its  odoriferous  sub- 
stance is  highly  valued  in  perfumery.  The  cross-section 
of  the  capsule  is  thick  and  fleshy,  filled  with  very  small, 
black,  lustrous  seeds  stuck  together  by  a  gummy  balsam 
with  which  they  are  coated.  The  capsule  has  a  sourish 
taste  and  has  no  value,  the  seeds,  or  rather  the  balsam 


196  MANUFACTURE   OF   PERFUMERY. 

enveloping  the  seeds,  being  the  substance  on  which  the 
odor  and  taste  of  vanilla  depend.  When  the  vanilla 
fruit  becomes  ripe,  the  capsule  opens  and  empties  its 
content  of  seeds  in  the  form  of  a  balsam-like  mass. 

The  lustrous  black-brown  surface  of  vanilla  is 
frequently  coated  with  white,  delicate  crystals,  which 
were  formerly  taken  for  benzoic  acid.  Bley  and  Vee 
first  recognized  them  as  a  peculiar  substance,  which  was 
further  examined  by  Gobley  and  Stokkebye.  This  sub- 
stance, to  which  Gobley  applied  the  term  vanillin,  is  the 
chief  ordoriferous  substance  of  vanilla.  It  is  deposited 
upon  the  vanilla-crystals,  when  the  latter  are  densely 
and  closely  packed  together  and  for  some  time  exposed 
to  a  heat  of  about  77°  F.  Of  vanillin,  vanilla  contains 
1.5  to  2.75  per  cent.;  the  Mexican  variety  containing 
1.69  to  1.32  per  cent.,  the  Bourbon  No.  I,  2.48  to  1.91 
per  cent.,  Bourbon  No.  II,  1.55  to  0.75  per  cent.,  and 
the  Java,  2.75  to  1.56  per  cent.  It  is  singular,  that  the 
highly  valued  Mexican  vanilla  has,  generally  speaking, 
a  lower  content  of  vanillin  than  the  other  varieties. 

At  present,  vanillin  is  prepared  artificially.  Tiemann 
and  Harmann  first  showed  that  by  the  oxidation  of 
coniferin,  a  glucoside  occurring  in  the  cambial  sap  of  the 
Coniferce,  a  product,  perfectly  identical  with  the  vanillin 
prepared  from  vanilla,  is  obtained.  The  coniferin  is 
obtained  by  barking  the  pine  or  silver  fir,  scraping 
together  the  sap  under  the  bark  together  with  a  portion 
of  the  liber  and  pouring  it  into  a  vessel.  The  sap  is 
then  pressed  off',  boiled  to  separate  the  albumin,  filtered, 
evaporated  to  one-fifth  its  volume,  and  set  aside  to 
crystallize.  One  hundred  quarts  of  sap  are  said  to  yield 
from  1  to  2  pounds  of  coniferm-crystals.  By  now 


ARTIFICIAL   PERFUME-MATERIALS.  197 

allowing  an  aqueous  coniferin-solution  to  run  into  a 
heated  mixture  of  10  parts  potassium  bichromate,  15 
parts,  concentrated  sulphuric  acid,  and  80  parts  water, 
and  heating  for  3  hours  in  a  flask  with  back-flow  cooler, 
a  liquid  is  obtained  from  which  ether  takes  up  a  yellow 
oil.  After  treating  the  latter  with  animal  charcoal,  dis- 
solving in  ether  and  evaporating  the  latter,  there  remain 
colorless,  acicular  crystals  of  the  odor  and  taste  of 
vanilla.  These  crystals  consist  of  vanillin  contaminated 
with  some  vanillic  acid.  To  separate  the  latter,  purify 
with  acid  sodium  sulphite  and  recrystallize.  After  this 
operation,  vanillin  represents  a  nearly  white  crystalline 
powder  which  melts  at  from  176°  to  177.8°  F.  In 
this  form  it  is  brought  into  commerce  as  a  complete  sub- 
stitute for  vanilla,  5.64  drachms  of  it  corresponding  to 
about  1  pound  of  vanilla.  A  medium-sized  pine  tree 
is  said  to  yield  vanillin  of  the  value  of  80  marks 
($19.20). 

Vanillin  may  also  be  prepared  by  oxidation  from 
eugenol.  Oil  of  cloves  is  diluted  with  three  times  its 
volume  of  ether  and  agitated  with  weak  caustic  potash 
solution  to  fix  the  eugenol  on  the  potash.  By  acidulat- 
ing the  alkaline  solution  and  shaking  with  ether,  the 
eugenol  is  collected.  After  distilling  0ff  the  ether,  the 
eugenol  is  converted  with  acetic  anhydride  into  aceteugol, 
and  the  latter  oxidized  with  dilute,  moderately-warmed 
potassium  permanganate  solution.  The  filtrate  is  made 
slightly  alkaline,  concentrated,  then  compounded  with 
acid  and  the  vanillin  extracted  with  ether. 

Vanillin  (C8H8O3)  forms  small  colorless  prisms  of  a 
strong  vanilla  odor,  a  warm,  vanilla  taste,  and  an  acid 
reaction.  It  is  readily  soluble  in  hot  water,  alcohol, 


198  MANUFACTURE   OF   PERFUMERY. 

ether,  chloroform,  fat  and  volatile  oils,  as  well  as  in 
solutions  of  caustic  alkalies  and  alkaline  carbonates.  It 
melts  when  heated  to  from  176°  to  177.8°  F.  ;  at  a 
higher  temperature  it  sublimates  without  leaving  a 
residue. 

According  to  a  notice  published  in  the  "Deutsch- 
Amerikanischen  Apotheker  Zeitung,"  vanillin  adulterated 
with  benzoic  acid  has  occurred  in  the  United  States.  A 
sample  subjected  to  examination  is  said  to  have  been 
nothing  but  benzoic  acid  perfumed  with  vanillin.  Such 
an  adulteration  can  be  detected  with  the  microscope, 
since  vanillin  crystallizes  in  acicular  crystals,  and  ben- 
zoic acid  in  lamina,  which  can  be  readily  recognized. 
Pure  vanillin  melts  at  176°  F.,  while  the  melting  points 
of  such  mixtures  are  considerably  higher,  it  being  in 
one  case  at  249°  F.  By  extracting  such  mixture  with 
thin  sodium  carbonate  solution,  benzoic  acid  passes  into 
solution.  After  neutralizing  with  hydrochloric  acid,  the 
filtrate  yields  with  ferric  chloride  a  fawn-brown  precipi- 
tate of  ferric  benzoate,  and  on  adding  hydrochloric  acid 
in  excess,  the  benzoic  acid,  which  dissolves  with  great 
difficulty  in  cold  water,  is  precipitated.  By  treating  the 
latter,  or  the  ferric  benzoate,  with  dilute  sulphuric  acid 
and  magnesium,,  the  benzoic  acid  is  reduced  to  benzal- 
dehyde,  which  is  recognized  by  its  characteristic  odor 
of  oil  of  bitter  almonds. 

Nitrobenzol  is  obtained  by  treating  benzol,  or  a  mix- 
ture of  it,  with  toluol  and  their  higher  homologues,  with 
strong  nitric  acid,  or  a  mixture  of  nitric  and  sulphuric 
acids,  washing  the  product  of  reaction  with  water  and 
soda,  caustic  soda  or  ammonia,  expelling  the  unaltered 
hydrocarbons  with  steam  and  rectifying  the  residue. 


ARTIFICIAL   PERFUME-MATERIALS.  199 

Three  varieties  distinguished  by  their  boiling  points  and 
odor  occur  in  commerce.  The  nitrobenzol  or  oil  of 
mirbane  (essence  de  mirbane)  is  the  so-called  light  nitro- 
benzol, which  boils  at  from  4(tt%  lo'^llF  F.  The 
heavier  varieties  boil  at  a  higher  temperature  and  have 
a  more  or  less  disagreeable  odor;  they  are  used  in  the 
manufacture  of  aniline  and  aniline  colors. 

Pure  oil  of  mibrane  is  pale  yellow,  the  finest  qualities 
being  colorless  and  almost  as  clear  as  water.  It  has  an 
agreeable  odor  resembling  that  of  oil  of  bitter  almonds, 
a  specific  gravity  of  1.186  to  1.2  =  25°  B&,  and  con- 
geals at  3v.4^F.  to  a  crystalline  mass.  It  is  scarcely 
soluble  in  water,  sparingly  so  in  alcohol  and  with  diffi- 
culty in  watery  spirit  of  wine;  it  is  miscible  in  all  pro- 
portions with  ether,  benzine,  volatile  oils,  aud  most  fat 
oils. 

Oil  of  mirbane  is  largely  manufactured  in  England, 
but  the  German  product  is  now  generally  preferred,  it 
being  purer  and  does  not  impart  to  soap  perfumed  with 
it  a  yellowish  tinge.  The  finest  oil  of  mirbane  is  pre- 
pared from  pure  crystallizable  benzol,  and  again  purified 
by  washing  with  potassium  bichromate  and  sulphuric 
acid,  and  by  rectification  with  steam. 

Pure  nitrobenzol  suffers  no  change  by  boiling  with 
soda  lye,  while  the  poorly  rectified  product  colors  the 
lye  yellow  or  brown. 

Nitrobenzol  is  frequently  adulterated  with  spirit  of 
wine,  which  is  recognized  by  shaking  the  oil  with  fat 
oil  of  almonds ;  in  the  presence  of  spirit  of  wine  a  tur- 
bid mixture  is  formed.  By  shaking  nitrobenzol  con- 
taining spirit  of  wine  with  an  equal  volume  of  water 
in  a  graduated  cylinder,  its  volume  decreases. 


200  MANUFACTURE   OF   PERFUMERY. 

Oil  of  mirbane  is  much  used  for  perfuming  soaps,  but 
even  the  finest  quality  of  it  cannot  replace  oil  of  bitter 
almonds  for  fine  soaps  and  perfumery.  Great  care  has 
to  "be  exercised  in  storing,  as  well  as  in  working,  nitro- 
benzol,  it  igniting  very  readily,  and  it  is  also  poisonous. 
Even  the  vapors,  when  inhaled  for  some  time,  may  pro- 
duce symptoms  of  poisoning,  which  consist  in  the  skin 
acquiring  a  leaden  color,  and  heavy  feelings  in  the  limbs 
with  cold  extremities,  especially  the  hands  and  feet. 

FRUIT  ETHERS.  At  the  London  Exhibition,  in  1851, 
various  products  called  apple  oil,  pear  oil,  pine-apple  oil, 
etc.,  were  shown.  They  were  examined  by  A.  W.  Hof- 
mann,  and  found  to  consist  of  solutions  of  certain  ethers 
in  alcohol.  Since  then  the  manufacture  has  greatly  in- 
creased and  large  quantities  are  now  brought  into  com- 
merce under  the  name  of  fruit  ethers  orfru>'t  essences. 

Fruit  ethers  are  fluids  possessing  an  agreeable,  refresh- 
ing odor  closely  resembling  that  of  some  fruits.  For 
this  reason  they  are  used  in  confectionery,  in  the  manu- 
facture of  liqueurs  and  also  as  a  substitute  for  volatile 
oils,  in  the  manufacture  of  perfumery.  Chemically,  fruit 
ethers  are  combinations  of  an  organic  acid — acetic,  buty- 
ric, valerianic,  etc. — with  a  so-called  alcohol  radicle,  such 
as  ethyl  and  amyl.  The  preparation  of  fruit  ethers  being 
connected  with  many  difficulties,  is  seldom  attempted  by 
perfumers,  especially  as  products  of  an  excellent  quality 
can  at  a  low  rate  be  procured  from  chemical  laboratories 
making  a  specialty  of  their  manufacture.  However,  for 
the  sake  of  completeness,  a  brief  description  of  the  fabri- 
cation of  the  principal  ethers  used  in  their  preparation 
shall  here  be  given. 


ARTIFICIAL   PERFUME-MATERIALS.  201 

Acetic  amyl  ether  or  amyl  acetate,  C5Hn O.CJH3O,  is 
prepared  by  mixing  1  part  of  amyl  alcohol  with  1  part 
of  concentrated  sulphuric  acid,  and  distilling  the  mix- 
ture with  2  parts  of  potassium  acetate.  The  distillate 
is  washed  with  water,  to  which  some  carbonate  of  soda 
has  been  added,  and  then  rectified  over  magnesia.  It 
forms  a  colorless  liquid  of  an  agreeable  fruity  odor.  It 
boils,  according  to  Kopp,  at  280°  F.  and,  at  59°  F.,  its 
specific  gravity  is  0.8692. 

For  use  in  perfumery,  the  ether  is  best  prepared,  ac- 
cording to  Fehling's  directions,  by  heating  for  some 
time  at  a  temperature  of  212°  F.  1  part  of  glacial  acetic 
acid  with  J  part  of  sulphuric  acid  and  one  part  of  amyl 
alcohol.  By  then  adding  water  the  ether  is  separated. 
By  this  process  distillation  is  avoided. 

Acetic  ethyl  ether  or  ethyl  acetate,  C2,H3O.O.C2H5. 
Acetic  ether  is  formed  by  the  decomposition  of  sodium 
acetate  by  ethyl  sulphuric  acid  : — 

rOC2H,        +         C2H3O.ONa  = 

SO*\OH 

Ethyl  sulphuric  Sodium  acetate. 

+         CZH3O.OC2H5 

Acetic  ether. 

One  molecule  of  sulphuric  acid  or  98  parts  is  mixed 
with  one  molecule  of  alcohol  or  46  parts,  or  with  1 
molecule  of  alcohol  of  90  per  cent,  which  contains  85.75 
per  cent,  of  absolute  alcohol,  hence  with  53.6  parts  of 
alcohol,  and  distilled  with  1  molecule  or  82  parts  of 
anhydrous  sodium  acetate.  Since  commercial  sulphuric 


202  MANUFACTURE   OF   PERFUMERY. 

acid  always  contains  5  or  6  per  cent,  of  water,  this  has  to  be 
taken  into  consideration,  and  105  to  106  parts  of  it  have 
to  be  used  in  order  to  decompose  the  entire  quantity  of 
sodium  acetate.  The  crude  sodium  acetate  found  in  com- 
merce may  be  used.  It  is  nearly  white  and  at  the  ut- 
most contaminated  by  traces  of  sulphuric  acid  and 
chlorine,  which  in  this  case  are  not  injurious.  The 
crystallized  salt  is  heated  in  an  iron  kettle  whereby  it 
melts  in  its  water  of  crystallization.  With  constant 
stirring  the  water  is  then  completely  evaporated  until 
an  entirely  dry  mass  of  salt  remains  behind.  The  latter 
may  be  quite  strongly  heated  without  fear  of  destroying 
the  acetic  acid.  The  dried  salt  is  immediately  powdered, 
passed  through  a  medium  fine  sieve  and  kept  for  use 
in  well-closed  vessels. 

On  a  large  scale  the  distillation  of  the  ether  may 
be  effected  in  an  iron  kettle,  which  is  provided  with  a 
well-fitting  lid  and  connected  by  a  copper  head  with  a 
cooling  apparatus — a  worm  lying  in  cold  water.  Bring 
into  the  kettle  the  required  quantity  of  concentrated  sul- 
phuric acid,  add,  with  vigorous  stirring,  the  alcohol  and 
allow  the  mixture  to  rest  for  24  hours.  Then  throw  the 
dry  sodium  acetate  into  the  mixture,  mix  it  thoroughly, 
by  stirring,  with  the  ethyl  sulphuric  acid,  and,  after 
luting  all  the  joints  of  the  apparatus,  heat  at  first  mode- 
rately. Distillation  proceeds  quietly  and  uniformly, 
the  fire  being  regulated  according  to  how  the  ether  runs 
off  from  the  worm.  Such  uniform  distillation  is,  however, 
only  attained  by  the  use  of  the  sodium  acetate  in  the 
form  of  powder,  and  thoroughly  mixing  it  with  the  acid. 
If  large  pieces  of  the  salt  are  present  or  the  powdered 
salt  balls  together,  the  formation  of  ether  sometimes  takes 


ARTIFICIAL   PERFUME-MATERIALS.  203 

place  so  suddenly  that  the  vapors  cannot  condense  in  the 
cooling  apparatus,  but  escape  violently,  or  if  they  cannot 
escape  rapidly  from  the  condenser,  may  even  burst  the 
apparatus.  The  reason  for  this  is  that  the  larger  pieces 
float  in  the  superheated  acid  without  being  saturated  by 
it,  and,  when  they  suddenly  collapse,  form  a  mass  of 
ether- vapors. 

Distillation  is  continued  until  that  which  at  last  passes 
over  is  not  inflammable.  With  the  above-mentioned 
proportions  88  parts  of  acetic  ether  are  formed,  but  as 
some  water  always  passes  over,  distillation  need  not  be 
interrupted  until  the  receiver  contains  at  least  90  parts 
of  crude  ether. 

The  crude  ether  always  contains  more  or  less  water, 
some  alcohol,  and  a  small  quantity  of  free  acetic  acid. 
With  the  above-mentioned  proportions,  the  content  of 
alcohol  can,  however,  be  only  very  small.  To  neutralize 
the  acetic  acid,  add  some  burnt  magnesia  or  shake  with 
carbonate  of  soda  solution  until  the  acid  reaction  disap- 
pears. For  the  absorption  of  the  water  and  alcohol,  add 
as  much  sharply  dried  (not  fused)  calcium  chloride  as 
the  fluid  will  dissolve,  and  then  let  it  stand  with  an 
excess  of  the  salt  for  one  day.  The  calcium  chloride 
combines  with  the  water  and  alcohol  and  separates  as  a 
heavy  layer  beneath  the  ether.  The  latter  is  decanted 
off  and  brought  into  a  rectifying  vessel — a  copper  still, 
heated  by  steam,  and  provided  with  a  cooling  pipe.  The 
ether  is  distilled  off  at  a  moderate  heat,  the  last  portion, 
about  T^,  being  caught  in  a  special  receiver,  to  be  again 
rectified  at  the  next  operation. 

According  to  Grossschopf,  40  Ibs.  of  pulverized  anhy- 
drous sodium  acetate,  together  with  a  cooled  mixture  of 


204  MANUFACTURE   OF   PERFUMERY. 

46  Ibs.  of  concentrated  sulphuric  acid  and  37  Ibs.  of  95 
per  cent,  alcohol,  free  from  fusel  oil,  are  distilled  in  a 
copper  still  heated  by  steam.  Distillation  is  continued 
with  constant  stirring  by  means  of  an  apparatus  in  the 
still,  until  no  more  fluid  smelling  and  tasting  of  acetic 
ether  passes  over.  The  crude  distillate,  amounting  to. 55 
or  56  Ibs.,  is  brought  into  bottles  which  are  filled  f  full. 
The  bottles  are  then  filled  up  with  water  and  potassium 
carbonate  is  added  until  the  fluid,  after  shaking,  shows 
no  acid  reaction.  The  aqueous  fluid  beneath  the  ether 
is  then  drawn  off  by  means  of  a  siphon,  and  the  ether 
several  times  washed  by  shaking  with  water  and  allow- 
ing to  settle.  Since  the  wash-water  absorbs  a  quite  con- 
siderable quantity  of  ether,  it  is  collected  and  subjected 
to  rectification,  whereby  an  alcoholic  acetic  ether  is  ob- 
tained. The  ether,  being  freed  from  acetic  acid  and 
alcohol  by  neutralization  and  washing,  is  brought  in 
contact  with  fused  calcium  chloride  to  free  it  from 
water,  and  finally  rectified  over  magnesia.  In  this 
manner  36  to  37  Ibs.  of  pure  acetic  ether  are  obtained. 
Acetic  ether  is  a  clear,  colorless  fluid  of  a  pleasant, 
etheral  odor.  It  boils  at  170.6°  F.,  and  at  59°  F.  its 
specific  gravity  is  0.9068.  Pure  acetic  ether  dissolves 
in  11  to  12  parts  of  water;  a  content  of  alcohol  or  the 
addition  of  water  increases  its  solubility.  Hence,  its 
ibility  in  water  is  a  criterion  of  its  purity. 

nzoic  ether  or  ethyl  benzoate,  C7H5O.OC2H5,  is  most 
readily  prepared  by  mixing  4  parts  of  alcohol,  2  parts 
of  crystallized  benzoic  acid,  and  1  part  fuming  hydro- 
chloric acid,  and  for  some  time  heating  the  mixture  in  a 
flask.  The  benzoic  acid  is  thereby  gradually  and  com- 
pletely converted  into  ether.  The  fluid  is  mixed  with 


ARTIFICIAL   PERFUME-MATERIALS.  205 

water,  whereby  the  ether  is  completely  separated.  It  is 
several  times  washed  with  carbonate  of  soda  solution, 
and,  for  the  purpose  of  withdrawing  the  last  trace  of 
free  acid,  distilled  over  lead  oxide.  It  forms  a  colorless 
oil  of  an  aromatic  odor,  specific  gravity  1.0502,  and 
boils  at  £l2°  FT  In  cold  water  it  is  insoluble.  How- 
ever, like  all  varieties  of  ether,  it  dissolves  readily  in 
alcohol  and  ether^ 

Butyric  ethyl  ether  or  ethyl  butyrate,  C4H7O.OC2Ha. 
The  preparation  of  this  ether  must  be  preceded  by  that 
of  butyric  acid.  The  latter  is  obtained,  according  to 
Bensch,  by  dissolving  6  Ibs.  of  cane  sugar  and  8  drachms 
of  tartaric  acid  in  13  quarts  of  hot  water,  allowing  the 
liquid  to  stand  a  few  days  and  then  adding  7  ozs.  of  old 
rotten  cheese,  which  has  been  stirred  up  in  4  quarts  of 
skimmed  sour  milk  and  3  Ibs.  of  finely  pulverized  chalk. 
The  mixture  must  be  kept  at  a  uniform  temperature  of 
from  86°  to  95°  F.  for  some  weeks,  from  time  to  time 
mixing  it  by  stirring,  and  replacing  the  water  lost  by 
evaporation. 

By  the  action  of  a  ferment  the  sugar  is  first  converted 
into  lactic  acid.  In  10  to  12  days  the  entire  mass  con- 
geals to  a  paste  of  calcium  lactate.  By  now  allowing 
fermentation  to  proceed  without  interruption,  it  gradu- 
ally enters  another  stage ;  gas  bubbles  consisting  of  car- 
bonic acid  and  hydrogen  rise  up,  until  in  the  course  of 
5  or  6  weeks  the  process  is  finished.  This  is  recognized 
by  the 'fluid  becoming  quiet,  no  more  gas  being  evolved. 
The  fluid  then  contains  a  solution  of  calcium  lactate, 
which  is  converted  into  the  corresponding  sodium  salt 
by  the  addition  of  8  Ibs.  of  crystallized  soda.  It  is  then 
filtered  and  concentrated  by  evaporation  to  5  quarts.  By 


206  MANUFACTURE   OF   PERFUMERY. 

adding  5}  Ibs.  of  sulphuric  acid,  diluted  with  an  equal 
volume  of  water,  butyric  acid  is  separated  as  a  dark- 
colored  oily  mass. 

The  crude  butyric  acid  thus  obtained  and  freed  from 
water  by  shaking  with  calcium  chloride,  is  a  mixture  of 
acetic,  butyric,  and  capric  acids,  but  does  not  contain 
propionic  and  valerianic  acids.  To  obtain  from  it  pure 
butyric  acid,  fractional  distillation  is  required.  For 
manufacturing  on  a  large  scale,  a  copper  distilling  appa- 
ratus with  silver  head  and  silver  cooling  pipe  is  used, 
the  bulb  of  a  thermometer  being  placed  in  the  head.  In 
the  first  rectification,  the  receiver  is  changed  after  the 
thermometer  has  risen  to  311°  F. ;  the  portion  passing 
over  between  311°  and  329°  F.  is  caught  up  by  itself, 
and  the  receiver  being  again  changed,  distillation  is  con- 
tinued until  finished.  The  first  distillate  contains  mostly 
acetic  acid,  besides  a  small  quantity  of  butyric  acid,  the 
second  the  greater  portion  of  the  butyric  acid  besides 
a  little  acetic  and  capric  acids,  while  the  third  consists 
chiefly  of  capric  acid.  For  preparing  butyric  ether  for 
technical  purposes,  the  fraction  passing  over  between 
311°  and  329°  F.  is  sufficiently  pure.  To  obtain  chemi- 
cally pure  butyric  acid,  the  rectification  of  the  portion 
passing  over  between  311°  and  329°  F.  is  in  the  same 
manner  repeated,  until  finally  a  product  with  a  constant 
boiling  point  at  324.2°  F.  is  obtained. 

Butyric  acid  fermentation  proceeds  more  rapidly  by 
using,  instead  of  rotten  cheese,  putrefying  meat,  and  in 
place  of  sugar,  starch  paste  or  mashed  boiled  potatoes, 
1  part  of  meat  to  4  parts  of  starch  or  a  corresponding 
quantity  of  potatoes  being  employed.  The  same  pro- 
ducts are  formed  as  in  the  preceding  process,  but  much 


ARTIFICIAL   PERFUME-MATERIALS.  207 

more  rapidly,  fermentation  being  finished,  according  to 
Schubert,  in  5  to  6  days. 

Butyric  acid,  C4H7O.OH,  or  C3H7COOH,  is  a  liquid 
of  a  very  sour  taste  and  odor,  and  at  an  intense  cold  con- 
geals to  a  crystalline  mass  which  melts  at  32°  F.  In  a 
pure  state  it  boils  at  324.2°  F.  It  is  soluble  in  water, 
but  separates  again  if  soluble  salts  are  added  to  this  solu- 
tion. Its  specific  gravity,  after  being  completely  freed 
from  water,  is  0.974. 

Besides  the  normal  butyric  acid,  there  is  known 
another  one  called  isobyteric  acid  or  dimethyl 'acetic  acid. 
It  is  distinguished  from  the  normal  acid  by  being  less 
soluble  in  water  and  by  its  boiling  point,  which  lies  at 
309.2°  F.  It  occurs  in  St.  John's  bread  or  carob,  in 
the  volatile  oil  from  Arnica  montana  and  in  croton  oil. 

Butyric  ether  is  formed  by  mixing  2  parts  of  butyric 
acid  with  2  parts  of  alcohol  and  1  part  of  sulphuric 
acid.  The  fluid  is  heated  to  176°  F.,  and,  after  being 
for  several  hours  kept  at  that  temperature,  is  poured 
into  cold  water,  whereby  the  ether  separates  as  an  oily 
fluid.  It  is  then  separated  from  the  aqueous  solution, 
washed  with  water  to  which  some  chalk  has  been  added 
for  the  neutralization  of  the  free  acid,  and  finally  the 
water  is  withdrawn  from  the  ether  by,  for  several  days, 
leaving  it  in  contact  with  calcium  chloride.  To  obtain 
it  entirely  pure,  it  is  only  necessary  to  distil  it  once.  It 
forms  a  clear,  very  mobile  fluid  of  a  pine-apple  odor, 
and  a  specific  gravity  of  0.900.  It  boils  at  249.8°  F. 

Commercial  butyric  ether,  large  quantities  of  which 
are  used  for  the  preparation  of  the  so-called  pine-apple 
ether  or  essence,  is  seldom  pure,  it  being  generally  ob- 
tained from  simply  rectified  butyric  acid.  According  to 


208  MANUFACTURE   OF   PERFUMERY. 

another  method,  which  is,  however,  not  as  profitable,  it  is 
obtained  by  distilling  butter-soap  with  alcohol  and  sul- 
phuric acid.  For  this  purpose,  bring  20  pounds  of 
butter-soap,  cut  up  in  small  pieces,  into  a  distilling  appa- 
ratus, pour  over  it  10  pounds  of  90  per  cent,  alcohol 
and  heat  moderately  until  the  soap  is  dissolved.  Since 
a  portion  of  the  alcohol  evaporates  thereby,  add  10 
pounds  more  of  alcohol  and  then  20  pounds  of  sulphuric 
acid.  On  further  heating,  a  fluid  of  a  very  agreeable 
odor  distils  over,  which  is  an  alcoholic  solution  of  the 
ethers  of  the  volatile  acids  found  in  butter.  Towards 
the  end  of  the  operation,  in  consequence  of  the  further 
progress  of  decomposition,  a  development  of  sulphurous 
acid  generally  takes  place.  This  is  removed  from  the 
distillate  by  allowing  it  to  remain  for  several  days  in 
contact  with  finely-pulverized  pyrolusite  (peroxide  of 
manganese)  and  rectifying  over  burnt  magnesia.  In  the 
first  distillation,  the  heavy  volatile  acids  of  the  butter 
remain  behind ;  they  are  freed  from  the  excess  of  sul- 
phuric acid  and  the  sulphate  of  sodium  or  potassium  by 
washing  with  hot  water,  and  can  be  utilized  in  the 
manufacture  of  soap. 

The  butyric  ether  obtained  from  butter-soap  is  far 
from  being  pure  butyric  ether,  it  containing,  besides  it, 
a  mixture  of  various  kinds  of  ether  derived  from  the 
volatile  acids — caproic,  capric,  and  caprylic  acids.  How- 
ever, these  varieties  of  ether  possess  similar  properties 
to  that  of  butyric  acid ;  in  alcoholic  solutions  their  taste 
and  odor  are  nearly  alike,  and  hence  can  be  employed 
in  this  mixture  for  the  preparation  of  essences  of  an 
agreeable  odor  and  taste. 

A  suitable   material  for  the  preparation  of  butyric 


ARTIFICIAL    PERFUME-MATERIALS.  209 

ether  is  also  the  St.  John's  bread  or  carob,  the  pods  of 
Sitequa  dulcis.  Kedtenbacher  established  in  them  the 
occurrence  of  about  2  per  cent,  butyric  acid,  which 
Gruenzweig  later  on  proved  to  be  isobutyric  acid.  Be- 
sides butyric  acid  and  other  volatile  acids,  St.  John's 
bread  contains  about  40  per  cent,  of  fermentable  varieties 
of  sugar,  which  can  be  utilized  after  their  conversion  to 
butyric  acid.  For  this  purpose  Stinde  has  proposed  the 
following  process  :  Convert  the  pods  together  with  the 
seeds  to  a  coarse  powder  ;  bring  100  Ibs.  of  this  powder 
into  a  capacious  barrel  placed  in  a  warm  place,  and  pour 
sufficient  water  of  82.5°  F.  over  it,  to  form  a  thin  paste ; 
after  4  to  5  days  add  24  Ibs.  of  whiting  and  await  fer- 
mentation. The  paste,  which  gradually  becomes  thicker, 
is  from  time  to  time  stirred,  and,  if  necessary,  a  small 
quantity  of  lukewarm  water  added.  In  summer  fer- 
mentation is  finished  in  six  weeks,  after  which  the 
preparation  of  the  ether  is  proceeded  with. 

For  this  purpose  bring  the  paste  into  a  still  provided 
with  a  steam  jacket ;  the  evening  before  mix  36  Ibs.  of 
concentrated  sulphuric  acid  with  60  Ibs.  of  alcohol  of  95 
per  cent.,  and  add  the  mixture  to  the  paste  in  the  still ; 
then  lute  the  joints  of  the  distilling  apparatus,  and 
quickly  introduce  steam.  Distillation  soon  commences, 
and,  when  once  introduced,  is  continued  with  a  moderate 
admission  of  steam. 

The  first  pound  of  the  distillate  is  caught  by  itself, 
and,  after  changing  the  receiver,  distillation  is  continued 
until  but  little  passes  over,  even  with  an  increased  ad- 
mission of  steam.  Thus  an  abundant  yield  of  alcoholic 
butyric  ether  is  obtained.  When  distillation  is  finished 
20  Ibs.  more  of  alcohol  may  be  brought  into  the  still ; 
14 


210  MANUFACTURE   OF   PERFUMERY. 

the  distillate  obtained  thereby  being  still  rich  in  butyric 
ether. 

The  St.  John's  bread  used  should  be  of  the  best 
quality,  free  from  worms  and  mould,  as  otherwise  the 
ether  would  not  possess  the  pure,  agreeable  odor  char- 
acteristic of  butyric  ether. 

Formic  ethyl  ether,  or  ethyl  formate,  CHO.OC2H5.— 
This  ether  is  also  much  manufactured  for  the  prepara- 
tion of  the  so-called  essences  which  are  employed  for 
the  purpose  of  imitating  the  odor  of  plants,  fruits,  etc. 
It  is  formed  by  the  action  of  formic  acid  upon  alcohol, 
or  by  bringing  ethyl  sulphuric  acid,  or  a  mixture  of  al- 
cohol and  sulphuric  acid,  in  contact  with  formates,  or 
finally  by  bringing  formic  acid  at  the  moment  of  its 
formation  in  contact  with  alcohol. 
'  The  most  simple  process  is  that  recommended  by 
Lor  in : — 

Into  a  capacious  distilling  apparatus  connected  with 
the  cooling  pipe,  so  that  the  distillate  constantly  flows 
back,  bring  1  part,  by  weight,  of  glycerin  of  the  con- 
sistency of  syrup,  add  \  of  its  weight  of  crystallized 
oxalic  acid  and  the  same  quantity  of  alcohol  of  90  to 
95  per  cent.  With  moderate  heating  a  vigorous  devel- 
opment of  gas  soon  takes  place.  The  oxalic  acid  in 
contact  with  the  glycerin  splits  into  formic  acid  and 
carbonic  acid,  according  to  the  following  equation  : — 

/COOH     =     CHO.OH     +     CO2. 
\COOH 


Oxalic  acid.  Formic  acid.  Carbonic  acid. 

The  glycerine  does  not   undergo  alteration  thereby. 
The  nascent  formic  acid  converts  the  alcohol  present 


ARTIFICIAL   PERFUME-MATERIALS.  211 

into  formic  ether,  water  being  separated.  When,  after 
continued  heating,  the  development  of  carbonic  acid 
abates,  add  the  same  quantities  of  oxalic  acid  and  alco- 
hol to  the  contents  of  the  still,  heat  again  until  but  little 
carbonic  acid  is  evolved,  and  then  add,  twice  in  succes- 
sion, the  same  quantities  of  oxalic  acid  and  alcohol  as 
before,  until  finally  as  much  oxalic  acid  is  consumed  as 
glycerin  has  been  employed.  When  the  evolution  of 
carbonic  acid  ceases,  the  receiver  is  reversed  and  the 
ether  distilled  off.  The  glycerin  remaining  behind  is 
again  concentrated  to  the  consistency  of  syrup,  and  may 
be  re-used. 

The  distillate  is  freed  from  free  acid  by  the  addition 
of  magnesia,  and  the  alcohol  and  water  are  separated  by 
shaking  with  calcium  chloride,  after  which  the  pure 
ether  is  obtained  by  rectification. 

Formic  ether  is  colorless,  thinly-fluid,  of  a  pleasant 
smell,  specific  gravity  0.945,  boiling  point  130°  F., 
soluble  in  cold  water,  and  miscible  in  every  proportion 
with  alcohol  and  ether. 

Nitrous  ether,  or  ethyl  nitrite,  C2H5.ONO. — In  a  pure 
state  this  ether  is  best  prepared  according  to  the  method 
given  by  E.  Kopp.  It  consists  in  bringing  equal  vol- 
umes of  alcohol  and  ordinary  nitric  acid  together  with 
copper  filings  into  a  distilling  apparatus,  which  is  so 
arranged  that  the  vapors  first  pass  through  a  flask  filled 
with  water  of  77°  F.,  then  through  a  calcium  chloride 
tube,  and  are  finally  condensed  in  a  receiver  surrounded 
by  snow  and  common  salt.  The  nitric  acid  is  first  de- 
composed by  the  copper,  nitrous  acid  being  thereby  de- 
veloped, which  is  so  transposed  that  its  radicle  NO 
occupies  the  position  of  the  typical  hydrogen  in  the 


212  MANUFACTURE   OF   PERFUMERY. 

alcohol,  while  the  rest  of  the  acid  forms  water  with  the 
hydrogen  of  the  alcohol.  By  the  reaction  such  a  quan- 
tity of  heat  is  liberated  that  the  process  requires  assist- 
ance by  external  heating  only  towards  the  end  of  the 
operation.  In  the  receiver  is  then  a  pale  yellow  fluid 
having  the  taste  and  odor  of  apples  and,  at  59°  F.,  a 
specific  gravity  of  0.947.  According  to  Liebig,  the 
boiling  point  of  nitrous  ether  lies  at  61.5°  F. ;  hence 
it  can  be  condensed  only  by  careful  cooling,  and  has  to 
be  kept  in  glass  tubes  fused  together.  In  water  it  is 
but  sparingly  soluble,  but  readily  so  in  alcohol.  By 
the  addition  of  water  it  is  separated  from  the  alcoholic 
solution. 

Mohr  has  modified  Kopp's  method  as  follows :  Mix 
alcohol  of  0.833  specific  gravity,  water,  and  nitric  acid 
of  1.200  specific  gravity,  each  24  parts  and  add  4  parts 
of  copper  filings.  Of  this  mixture  draw  off  24  parts  of 
distillate,  mix  the  latter  with  litmus  tincture  and  neu- 
tralize the  free  acid  by  adding,  drop  by  drop,  solution 
of  caustic  potash  or  soda  until  the  litmus  tincture  be- 
comes blue.  Rectify  the  distillate  and  catch  of  it  8 
parts.  Compound  the  latter  with  16  parts  alcohol  of 
0.833  specific  gravity,  whereby  the  product  is  made  equal 
to  the  quantity  of  alcohol  originally  used.  The  product 
is  kept  in  glasses  holding  from  2  to  3  ozs.  each.  This 
alcoholic  nitrous  ether  is  of  a  yellow  color,  very  strong 
and  has  a  pure  odor. 

In  England  and  America,  nitrous  ether  is  much  used 
for  aromatizing  whiskies  and  for  other  purposes.  Ac- 
cording to  Stinde*  it  is  prepared  on  a  large  scale  as 
follows : — 

*  Dingler's  Polyt.  Journ.,  184,  367. 


ARTIFICIAL    PERFUME-MATERIALS.  213 

A  stone- ware  flask  of  at  least  120  Ibs.  capacity,  such 
as  is  used  for  the  preparation  of  chlorine,  is  so  placed 
upon  a  tripod  in  a  sheet-iron  cylinder  that  the  neck  pro- 
jects over  the  edge  of  the  cylinder.  The  space  between 
the  flask  and  the  walls  of  the  cylinder  is  completely  filled 
with  mats  or  coarse  pack-cloth.  A  steam-pipe  enters  the 
lower  part  of  the  cylinder,  while  a  cock  placed  on  the  bot- 
tom of  the  cylinder  serves  for  discharging  the  condensed 
water.  The  cylinder  is  closed  by  a  sheet-iron  cover  pro- 
vided in  the  centre  with  a  hole  through  which  passes  the 
neck  of  the  flask.  The  flask  is  filled  with  60  Ibs  of  90 
per  cent,  alcohol  free  from  fusel  oil,  to  which,  in  small 
portions,  15  Ibs.  of  crude  nitric  acid  of  36°  Be.  are  added. 

The  neck  of  the  flask  is  provided  with  an  exactly- 
fitting  tube  of  pure  tin.  The  tube  is  bent  twice  at  a  right 
angle,  and  one  end  is  provided  with  an  annular  piece  to 
prevent  it  from  slipping  too  far  into  the  interior  of  the 
flask.  The  joints  between  the  tube  and  the  neck  of  the 
flask  are  luted  with  a  stiff  paste  of  flaxseed  meal,  a  wet 
strip  of  linen  being,  for  greater  security,  wrapped  over 
the  cement.  The  other  end  of  the  tin-tube,  which  here 
occupies  the  place  of  a  still-head,  is  in  the  same  manner 
connected  with  a  long  tin-worm  lying  in  a  large  cooling 
vat. 

Everything  being  prepared,  but  little  steam  is  at  first 
introduced  into  the  iron  cylinder  in  order  to  slowly 
warm  the  apparatus.  When  this  is  done  the  admission 
of  steam  is  gradually  increased.  The  mats  or  pack-cloth 
placed  between  the  walls  of  the  cylinder  and  the  flask 
prevent  the  latter  from  bursting,  which  otherwise  might 
readily  happen.  Distillation  commences  in  about  ten 
minutes.  The  admission  of  steam  is  then  moderated, 


214  MANUFACTURE   OF   PERFUMERY. 

care  being  had  that  the  ether  passes  over  in  an  uninter- 
rupted stream  of  the  thickness  of  a  goose-quill. 

When,  with  the  admission  of  the  same  amount  of 
steam,  the  distillate  commences  to  run  drop  by  drop,  the 
steam-cock  is  closed  and  the  operation  interrupted,  this 
being  the  case  in  about  six  to  seven  hours. 

The  next  day  the  flask — without  removing  the  residue 
- — is  charged  in  the  same  manner.  However,  the  third 
day  only  30  pounds  of  alcohol  are  poured  in. 

The  combined  distillates  come  into  a  copper  still  with 
double  walls,  between  which  steam  can  be  admitted^ 
and  are  neutralized  with  dry  calcium  hydrate.  The 
cooling  pipe  connected  with  the  still  consists  of  tin,  and 
is  provided  with  a  beak  dipping  into  a  flask  filled  half- 
full  with  4  pounds  of  alcohol.  A  slight  current  of  steam 
suffices  for  distillation.  The  first  distillate  is  dark 
yellow,  and  contains  large  quantities  of  aldehyde.  Not- 
withstanding careful  cooling,  the  vapors  can  be  but  in- 
completely condensed,  and  their  inhalation  has  to  be 
carefully  avoided,  they  producing  stupor  and  headache 
as  well  as  inflammation  of  the  eyes.  When  the  distil- 
late is  colorless  and  shows  no  reaction  with  litmus  paper, 
the  receiver  is  removed  and  replaced  by  a  large  glass 
balloon  in  which  the  entire  distillate  is  collected.  Dis- 
tillation must  be  quickly  finished,  as  otherwise  colored 
ether  is  obtained. 

l^alerianic  amyl  ether  or  amyl  valerate,  C5H1JO.C5ITgO. 

This  ether  is  formed  by  treating  amyl  alcohol  with 
chromic  acid.  However,  besides  the  ether  a  large 
quantity  of  valerianic  acid  is  also  formed,  which  has  to 
be  converted  by  itself  into  ether. 

To  prepare  the  ether  bring  5J  parts  of  powdered 


ARTIFICIAL   PERFUME-MATERIALS.  215 

potassium  dichromate  together  with  5  parts  of  water 
into  a  distilling  apparatus  and  very  gradually  add  a 
mixture  of  1  part  amyl  alcohol  and  5  parts  concentrated 
sulphuric  acid.  The  fluid  becomes  so  strongly  heated 
that  it  almost  boils.  When  reaction  is  finished,  heat 
and  distil  off  the  rest,  The  distillate  consists  of  two 
layers ;  the  lower  one  being  an  aqueous  solution  of 
valerianic  acid  and  the  upper  one  a  mixture  of  valerianic 
acid  and  amyl  valerate.  To  separate  both,  add  concen- 
trated carbonate  of  soda  solution  until  all  the  free  acid 
is  neutralized.  The  oily  liquid  separating  thereby  is 
the  ether.  It  is  separated  from  the  valerianate  of 
sodium,  the  latter  evaporated  to  a  small  volume,  and, 
after  cooling,  sufficient  sulphuric  acid  to  fix  the  entire 
quantity  of  the  soda  is  added.  The  valerianic  acid  is 
thereby  separated,  and  floats  upon  the  solution  of  the 
sodium  sulphate.  It  is  separated  from  the  latter,  and 
1 J  parts  of  it  are  added  to  a  mixture  of  f  part  of  amyl 
alcohol  and  1  part  sulphuric  acid  and  heated  to  212°  F. 
After  the  addition  of  water,  the  apple-ether  separates 
and  only  requires  washing  with  water  and  some  sodium 
carbonate  to  yield  a  pure  product. 

The  separation  of  the  valerianic  acid  can,  however, 
be  readily  avoided.  Evaporate  the  neutral  solution  of 
the  valerianate  of  soda  to  dryness  in  the  water-bath, 
weigh  of  1  molecule,  or  124  parts,  and  gently  heat 
it  with  a  mixture  of  1  molecule  or  98  parts  of  sulphuric 
acid  (on  account  of  the  content  of  water  in  the  com- 
mercial acid,  105  parts  of  it  will  have  to  be  taken)  and 
1  molecule  or  88  parts  of  amyl  alcohol. 

The  ether  thus  obtained  is  a  fluid,  which,  in  a  con- 
centrated state,  does  not  possess  an  agreeable  odor,  but 


216  MANUFACTURE   OF    PERFUMERY. 

when  mixed  with  10  parts  of  alcohol  imparts  to  the 
latter  an  odor  resembling  that  of  apples.  It  boils  at 
from  370°  to  374°  F.,  and  at  64°  F.  has  a  specific 
gravity  of  0.8793. 

Valerianic  ethyl  ether  closely  resembles  the  amyl  ether, 
and,  like  it,  is  prepared  from  valerianate  of  sodium, 
ordinary  alcohol,  and  sulphuric  acid. 

Apple  ether  essentially  consists  of  valeric  amyl  ether, 
of  which  1  part  is  dissolved  in  6  to  10  parts  of  strong 
alcohoL/ 

Apricot  ether  is  butyric  ether  with  some  amyl  alcohol. 

Cherry  ether  is  acetic  ether  with  benzoic  ether. 

Pear  ether  contains  acetic  amyl  ether. 

Pineapple  ether  is  butyric  ether. 

Strawberry  ether  is  acetic  ether  with  acetic  amyl  ether 
and  butyric  ether. 

The  ethers  are  dissolved  in  various  proportions  in 
alcohol,  according  to  the  intensity  of  the  odor  which  it 
is  desired  to  obtain.  The  aroma  of  most  of  them  is 
generally  increased  by  a  slight  addition  of  chloroform. 

For  the  preparation  of  different  fruit  essences  Klet- 
zinsky*  gives  the  following  directions.  The  figures 
indicate  additions  in  cubic  centimeters  to  1  liter  of  rec- 
tified alcohol  of  90  per  cent.  : — 

Apple  essence. — Chloroform  10,  nitrous  ether  10,  alde- 
hyde 20,  acetic  ether  10,  valeric  amyl  ether  100,  oxalic 
acidf  10,  glycerin  40. 

Apricot  essence. — Chloroform  10;  butyric  ether  100, 

*  Dingler's  Polyt.  Journ.,  180,  77. 

f  The  figures  for  free  acids  refer  to  cubic  centimeters  of  cold, 
saturated,  alcoholic  solutions. 


ARTIFICIAL   PERFUME-MATERIALS.  217 

valeric  ether  50,  peach  oil  10,  amyl  alcohol  20,  butyric 
amyl  ether  10,  tartaric  acid*  10,  glycerin  40. 

Cherry  essence. — Acetic  ether  50,  benzoic  ether  50, 
peach  oil  10,  benzoic  acid*  10,  glycerin  30. 

Currant  essence. — Aldehyde  10,  acetic  ether  50,  ben- 
zoic ether  10,  grape-seed  oil  10,  tartaric  acid*  50,  suc- 
cinic  acid*  10,  benzoic  acid*  10. 

Grape  essence. — Chloroform  20,  aldehyde  20,  formic 
ether  20,  grape-seed  oil  100,  wintergreen  oil  10,  tartaric 
acid*  50,  succinic  acid*  30,  glycerin  100. 

Lemon  essence. — Chloroform  10,  nitrous  ether  10, 
aldehyde  20,  acetic  ether  100,  oil  of  lemons  100,  tartaric 
acid*  100,  succinic  acid*  10,  glycerin  50. 

Melon  essence. — Aldehyde  20,  formic  ether  10,  butyric 
ether  40,  valeric  ether  50,  glycerin  30. 

Orange  essence. — Chloroform  20,  aldehyde  20,  acetic 
ether  50,  formic  ether  10,  butyric  ether  10,  benzoic  ether 
10,  wintergreen  oil  10,  acetic  amyl  ether  10,  orange-peel 
oil  100,  tartaric  acid*  10,  glycerin  100. 

Peach  essence. — Aldehyde  20,  acetic  ether  50,  formic 
ether  50,  butyric  ether  50,  valeric  ether  50,  peach  oil 
50,  amyl  alcohol  20,  glycerin  50. 

Pear  essence. — Acetic  ether  50,  acetic  amyl  ether  100, 
glycerin  100. 

Pine-apple  essence. — Chloroform  10,  aldehyde  10, 
butyric  ethyl  ether  50,  butyric  arnyl  ether  100,  glycerin 
30. 

Plum  essence. — Aldehyde  50,  acetic  ether  50,  formic 
ether  10,  butyric  ether  20,  peach  oil  40,  glycerin  80. 

*  The  figures  for  free  acids  refer  to  cubic  centimeters  of  cold, 
saturated,  alcoholic  solutions. 


218  MANUFACTURE   OF   PERFUMERY. 

Raspberry  essence. — Nitrous  ether  10,  aldehyde  10, 
acetic  ether  50,  formic  ether  10,  butyric  ether  10,  ben- 
zoic  ether  10,  grape-seed  oil  10,  wintergreen  oil  10, 
acetic  amyl  ether  10,  butyric  amyl  ether  10,  tartaric 
acid*  50,  succinic  acid*  10,  glycerin  40. 

Strawberry  essence.- — Nitrous  ether  10,  acetic  ether  50, 
formic  ether  10,  butyric  ether  50,  wintergreen  oil  10, 
acetic  amyl  ether  30,  butyric  amyl  ether  20,  glycerin 
20. 

*  The  figures  for  free  acids  refer  to  cubic  centimeters  of  cold, 
saturated,  alcoholic  solutions. 


ALCOHOLIC   PERFUMES.  219 


CHAPTER  VIII. 

ALCOHOLIC    PERFUMES. 

THE  alcoholic  perfumes,  also  called  "  Extraits 
d'Odeurs"  are  divided  into  flower-odors,  "Extraits  aux 
fleurs"  and  into  compound  odors,  "  Bouquets"  The  ex- 
tracts of  French  flower  pomades  form  the  foundation  of 
all  Extraits  d'Odeurs,  all  other  additions  serving  the 
purpose  of  rendering  these  odors  more  pronounced  and 
durable.  Hence  the  art  of  the  perfumer  consist  in  at- 
taining this  object  as  perfectly  as  possible  by  the  correct 
composition  of  the  perfume-materials  at  his  disposal. 
If,  for  instance,  the  flower-odor  jasmine  is  to  be  pre- 
pared, it  would  not  be  sufficient  to  simply  use  the 
alcoholic  extract  of  jasmine-pomade  for  the  purpose, 
since  the  odor  of  jasmine  would  soon  volatilize  in  the 
air  or  upon  the  handkerchief,  if  the  perfumer  did  not 
understand  how  to  prevent  it.  To  prevent  the  rapid 
volatilization  of  the  scent,  to  retain  it  or  to  fix  it,  extracts 
of  various  perfume-materials,  known  as  tinctures  or 
extracts  are  used. 

The  method  of  preparing  the  flower-pomades  in 
France  has  already  been  described  on  p.  58  et  seq.  It 
need  here  only  be  added  that,  according  to  their  quality, 
these  pomades  are  designated  by  different  numbers  by 
the  French  manufacturers.  There  are  three  qualities, 
which  by  some  manufacturers  are  designated  as  No.  6, 


220  MANUFACTURE   OF   PERFUMERY. 

No.  18,  and  No.  30;  and  by  others  as  No.  12,  No.  24 
and  No.  36,  so  that  No.  6  and  No.  12,  No.  18  and  No. 
24,  as  well  as  No.  30  and  36  correspond  to  each  other. 
Pomades  No.  6  or  No.  12  are  not  suitable  for  the  prepara- 
tion of  extracts,  they  containing  but  little  actual  extract 
of  flowers,  and  are  generally  mixtures  touched  up  with 
volatile  oils.  They  are  almost  exclusively  used  for  hair 
pomades,  for  which  they  are  well  adapted.  No.  18  or 
No.  24  is  the  quality  generally  employed  by  the  per- 
fumer for  alcoholic  extracts.  No.  30  or  No.  36  is  the 
strongest,  and,  hence,  most  expensive  flower-pomade, 
and  is  used  only  by  a  few  perfumers  who  have  customers 
for  the  finest  qualities  of  Extraits  dy  Odeurs. 

When  freshly  prepared,  the  above-mentioned  flower 
pomades  do  not  possess  the  fine  odor  of  the  respective 
flowers,  the  full  aroma  being  developed  only  after  about 
six  months.  The  tin-canisters  containing  them  should  be 
provided  with  well-fitting  lids  and  kept  in  a  cool,  dry 
cellar.  Thus  stored,  flower-pomade  keeps  for  about  five 
years,  with  the  exception  of  jasmine  and  tuberose,  which 
keep  only  for  about  two  years. 

In  order  to  show  how  the  extraction  of  flower-pomades 
is  effected,  we  will  take,  as  an  example,  2  Ibs.  of  French 
flower-pomade  No.  18  and  3J  quarts  of  best  alcohol.* 
This  proportion  yields  a  good  and  sufficiently  strong 
extract  for  the  preparation  of  Extraits  d' Odeurs.  It 
must,  of  course,  be  suited  to  the  size  of  the  extracting 
apparatus,  8  Ibs.  of  flower-pomade  and  14  quarts  of  al- 
cohol being,  for  instance,  taken,  though  that  depends 

*  By  "best  alcohol"  is  understood  rectified  alcohol  of  95  to  97 
per  cent. 


ALCOHOLIC   PERFUMES. 


221 


on  the  quantity  of  the  respective  extract  required  by  the 
perfumer.  It  is,  however,  best  that  the  apparatus  should 
be  as  completely  filled  as  possible  so  that  it  contains  but 
little  air. 

The  gaining  of  alcoholic  extracts  from  flower-pom- 
ades is  best  effected  in  a  special  apparatus,  one  of  the 
simplest  kind  for  the  purpose  being  shown  at  Fig.  25. 

FIG.  25. 


It  consists  of  two  cylinders,  A  and  Av  of  stout  sheet- 
iron  provided  with  well -fitting  lids.  Through  the  cen- 
tre of  each  lid  passes  a  vertical  iron  shaft  a  and  av  which 
carries  in  the  interior  of  the  apparatus  several  horizontal 
arms  6,  6,,  62.  These  vertical  shafts  can  be  rapidly  re- 
volved by  the  horizontal  shaft  c.  Before  bringing  the 
flower-pomade  into  the  apparatus,  it  is  melted  in  the 
water-bath  at  a  temperature,  which,  under  no  conditions, 
should  exceed  88.25°  F.  The  alcohol  is  also  heated  to 
88.25°  F.  and  added  to  the  melted  pomade  in  the  appa- 


222  MANUFACTURE   OF   PERFUMERY. 

ratus.  The  arms  with  which  the  vertical  shaft  is  pro- 
vided, keep  the  mass  in  the  apparatus  in  constant 
motion  and  prevent  the  pomade  from  settling  on  the 
bottom.  The  apparatus  is  arranged  to  be  driven  either 
by  hand  or  steam,  a  fly-wheel  instead  of  a  pulley,  being 
in  the  first  case  provided  at  g. 

Where  the  manufacturer  has  steam-power  at  his  dis- 
posal, the  apparatus  may  be  connected  with  the  trans- 
mission and  allowed  to  run  for  48  to  60  hours  during 
working  time.  After  the  expiration  of  this  time,  pro- 
ceed to  strain  off  the  finished  extract  (No.  1)  as  fol- 
lows :  Over  a  clean  tin  vessel  stretch  a  close,  white 
linen  cloth,  and  pour  the  entire  contents  of  the  appa- 
ratus upon  the  latter ;  the  liquid  portion  runs  through 
the  cloth  into  the  vessel,  while  the  pomade  remains 
behind  upon  the  cloth.  Finally,  the  cloth  is  thoroughly 
wrung  out  in  order  to  obtain  as  much  alcoholic  extract 
from  the  pomade  as  possible.  Bring  the  extract,  No.  1, 
thus  obtained  into  a  glass  flask,  allow  it  to  stand  in  a 
cool  cellar  for  about  48  hours,  and  then  filter  it  through 
paper  into  another  glass  bottle.  This  filtering  through 
paper  is  necessary,  even  if  the  extract  should  appear 
clear  and  pure,  as,  in  straining,  not  only  do  small  particles 
of  fat  pass  through  the  cloth,  but  are  also  dissolved  in 
the  extract.  By  quietly  standing  in  a  cool  cellar  these 
particles  of  fat  are  separated  and  appear  as  white  flakes 
on  the  bottom  and  sides  of  the  flask.  At  a  higher  tem- 
perature, these  flakes  melt  and  appear  as  drops  of  oil 
on  the  bottom  of  the  flask.  If  filtering  were  omitted, 
these  particles  of  fat  would  be  transferred  to  the  ex- 
tracts and  thus  cause  stains  upon  handerchiefs,  clothing, 
etc.  If  the  manufacturer  has  not  a  cool  cellar  at  his 


ALCOHOLIC   PERFUMES.  223 

disposal,  the  fatty  particles  are  readily  separated  by 
placing  the  flasks  containing  the  extract  upon  ice,  and 
filtering  immediately  after  separation  is  complete.  The 
fat  then  remains  upon  the  filter. 

The  pomade  remaining  upon  the  straining  cloth  is, 
without  being  previously  melted,  returned  to  the  appa- 
ratus, and,  after  adding  the  same  quantity  of  alcohol 
(3J  quarts  to  every  2  Ibs.  of  pomade),  the  .mixture  is  again 
worked  as  previously  described.  The  straining  off  and 
filtering  of  extract  No.  2  is  effected  in  precisely  the  same 
manner  as  extract  No.  1. 

The  pomade  upon  the  cloth  is  now  brought  for  the 
third  time  into  the  apparatus  and,  after  adding  3J  quarts 
of  alcohol  for  every  2  Ibs.  of  pomade,  subjected  to  the 
same  treatment  as  for  extracts  Nos.  1  and  2.  After 
thoroughly  wringing  out  the  cloth  containing  the  pomade, 
the  latter  is  brought  into  a  clean  tin  vessel  and  entirely 
melted  upon  the  water-bath.  The  vessel  containing  the 
melted  pomade  is  placed  in  a  cool  cellar  and,  if  after 
complete  cooling,  a  liquid  appears  upon  the  surface,  it 
is  added  to  the  flask  containing  extract  No.  3.  This 
extract,  No.  3,  is  used  in  place  of  alcohol  when  pre- 
paring, the  next  time,  extract  No.  1  from  the  same  kind 
of  pomade.  In  this  manner,  an  extract  No.  1  of  still 
greater  strength  is  obtained,  and  by  treating  the  pomade 
three  times  with  alcohol,  it  is  more  completely  exhausted. 
The  exhausted  pomade  can,  in  conjunction  with  fresh 
fat,  be  used  for  ordinary  hair  pomades. 

Although  the  extraction  of  pomades  is  somewhat 
laborious  and  requires  great  care,  it  nevertheless  pays 
the  perfumer. 

Beyer  freres,  of  Paris,  have  essentially  improved  the 


224 


MANUFACTURE   OF   PERFUMERY. 


extracting  apparatus  previously  described,  the  improve- 
ment being  shown  in  Fig.  26.  The  cylinders  A  and  A, 
are  of  copper  tinned  inside ;  the  lids  close  air-tight : 
above  the  cocks  /and  ft  a  perforated  piece  of  tin  is 


FIG.  26. 


placed  in  the  interior  of  the  cylinders  ;  upon  this  piece 
of  tin  a  disk  of  felt  may  be  placed,  and  thus  the  extract 
be  drawn  off  clear.  In  order  to  reduce  the  pomade 
to  a  finely  divided  state,  and  thus  bring  it  in  contact 
with  the  alcohol,  it  is  passed  through  a  vermicelli  press, 
h,  placed  upon  the  cylinder  Ar  The  pomade  passes,  in 
the  form  of  fine  vermicelli,  through  a  sieve  in  the  lower 
portion  of  the  press  into  the  alcohol  contained  in  the 
cylinders.  The  press  can  be  transferred  from  one  ex- 
tracting vessel  to  the  other.  The  shafts  a  and  at  also 


ALCOHOLIC   PERFUMES.  225 

have  several  horizontal  arms  like  those  shown  in  Fig. 
25.  Through  the  contrivances  d  and  dn  sitting  upon  the 
shaft  c,  the  shafts  a  and  at,  receive  a  revolving  as  well 
as  an  up-and-down  motion,  so  that  a  complete  mixture  of 
pomade  and  alcohol  is  effected.  By  this  arrangement 
the  pomade  completely  yields  its  perfume  to  the  alcohol 
in  one  day,  and  independent  of  the  quicker  work,  it  has 
the  further  advantage  that  the  extracts  are  of  better 
quality  in  consequence  of  not  remaining  for  so  long  a 
time  in  contact  with  the  fat. 

TINCTURES  AND  EXTRACTS.  In  the  following  pages 
receipts  for  the  preparation  of  the  principal  tinctures  and 
extracts  used  in  the  preparation  of  Extraits,  as  well  as 
in  other  branches  of  perfumery,  fumigating  pastils  and 
powders,*  dentifrices,  mouth-waters,  and  cosmetics,  will 
be  given.  The  tinctures  are  prepared  from  the  resins 
and  balsams  previously  mentioned,  as  well  as  from  the 
perfume-substances  derived  from  the  animal  kingdom. 
Besides  these  there  are  employed  for  the  purpose  several 
spices,  leaves,  roots,  and  seeds — such  as  musk-seeds, 
angelica  root,  orris  root,  patchouli  leaves,  musk-root 
or  sumbul-root,  tonka  beans,  vanilla,  vitivert  root,  etc. 

Most  of  these  substances,  if  not  already  found  in  com- 
merce in  the  form  of  a  powder,  are,  before  extraction, 
pulverized,  or  at  least  comminuted  as  much  as  possible. 
For  a  better  view  the  treatment  of  each  substance  is 
given  with  the  respective  receipt.  The  infusions  should 
be  stored  in  a  moderately  warm  room,  and  thoroughly 
shaken  several  time&  every  day.  When  extraction  is 
finished  the  product  is  filtered  through  paper  and  is  then 
called  tincture  or  extract. 

The  substances  to  be  used  for  tinctures  should  be  fresh 

15 


226 


MANUFACTURE   OF   PERFUMERY. 


and  genuine,  and  the  alcohol  free  from  fusel  oil,  since 
a  perfect  tincture  can  only  be  obtained  under  these  con- 
ditions. For  the  preparation  of  tinctures  Beyer  freres 
have  constructed  very  suitable  apparatuses  (Figs.  27 
and  28).  By  the  vigorous  and  uninterrupted  agitation 
produced  by  means  of  such  an  apparatus  extraction  is 
effected  much  more  rapidly  and  more  completely  than 
by  treating  the  substances  to  be  extracted  in  ordinary 
bottles  and  by  shaking  with  the  hand. 

The  apparatus  (Fig.  27)  is  provided  with  two  boxes 

FIG.  27. 


for  the  reception  of  bottles  filled  with  the  substances  to 
be  extracted  and  alcohol.  In  the  accompanying  illus- 
tration one  box  is  charged  with  two  glass  bottles  and 


ALCOHOLIC   PERFUMES. 


227 


the  other  with  a  copper  flask.  However,  Beyer  freres 
also  construct  apparatuses  which  can,  at  one  time,  be 
charged  with  6,  8,  or  10  glass  bottles,  so  that  6,  8,  or  10 
different  tinctures  can  be  prepared  at  one  operation. 

The  apparatus  (Fig.  28)  consists  of  a  round  table  pro- 
vided with  cavities  covered  with  leather,  in  which  rest 

Fia.  28. 


bottles  of  a  special  shape.  The  bottles  fit  exactly  in  the 
cavities.  The  stoppers,  with  which  the  bottles  are 
closed,  rest  against  a  screw  of  large  diameter  placed  in 
the  centre  of  the  apparatus.  Against  this  screw  the 
bottles  are  firmly  pressed  by  means  of  clamps  and 
screws.  The  bottles  being  filled  with  the  substances  to 
be  extracted,  the  table  is  set  in  motion,  moving  alter- 
nately from  left  to  right  and  from  right  to  left. 

It  is  advisable  to  have  always  a  sufficient  supply  of 
tinctures  on  hand,  since  their  aroma  improves  by  age. 

The  receipts  given  in  the  following  pages  have  been 


228  MANUFACTURE   OF   PERFUMERY. 

practically  tested  and  can  be  recommended  as  perfectly 
reliable. 

Musk  tincture. — Tonkin  musk  11  drachms,  rose  water 
8  ozs.,  best  quality  of  alcohol  2  quarts. 

Carefully  empty  the  musk  sac  into  a  glass  flask,  add 
the  rose  water  and  let  the  flask  stand  for  about  10  days, 
shaking  frequently.  Then  add  the  alcohol  and  let  the 
whole  stand  for  several  weeks,  shaking  frequently. 
Cut  up  the  empty  musk  sacs  into  as  small  pieces  as 
possible,  and,  in  another  bottle,  treat  them  in  the  same 
manner  as  their  contents;  distilled  water,  may,  how- 
ever, be  used  instead  of  rose  water.  The  object  of  the 
water  is  to  soften  the  musk,  which  swells  up,  so  that  the 
alcohol  can  better  penetrate,  into  the  cellular  tissue  and 
absorb  the  aroma. 

The  extract  from  the 'empty  musk  sacs  is  used  for 
cheaper  products,  or  mixed  with  the  extract  from  the 
contents  of  the  sacs,  according  to  whether  a  more  or 
less  fine  quality  of  tincture  is  to  be  obtained,  A  still 
higher  yield  might,  perhaps,  be  obtained  by  the  use  of  a 
machine  for  comminuting  the  musk,  which  grjnds  the 
sac  to  atoms,  whereby  the  cellular  tissue  is  still  more 
completely  disintegrated  than  by  cutting  up. 

Civet  tincture. — Civet  5J  drachms,  best  quality  of 
alcohol  3  pints. 

Civet  in  its  natural  state  being,  with  difficulty,  soluble 
in  alcohol,  triturate  it  in  a  mortar  to  a  pulverulent  mass 
together  with  some  dry  substance,  for  instance,  whiting 
or  exhausted  orris-root  powder.  The  mixture  is  then 
brought  into  a  glass  flask,  the  alcohol  added,  and  the 
whole  frequently  shaken. 


ALCOHOLIC   PERFUMES.  229 

Ambergris  tincture. — Ambergris  5|  drachms,  alcohol 
of  the  best  quality  1  quart. 

Ambergris  dissolving  readily  in  alcohol,  pulverizing 
is  not  required,  but  if  it  is  done,  great  care  should  be 
exercised  to  prevent  loss  of  this  expensive  substance. 
Ambergris  is  not  so  much  distinguished  by  its  aroma  as 
by  its  indestructibility,  which  renders  it  especially  suit- 
able for  fixing  odors. 

Castor  tincture. — Castor  3J  ozs.,  best  quality  of  alco- 
hol 3  pints. 

Comminute  the  castor  as  much  as  possible,  bring  it 
into  a  glass  flask  and  add  the  alcohol. 

Perfume-substances  resembling  musk  having  in  the 
last  few  years  increased  to  an  extraordinary  degree,  the 
use  of  castor  has  been  almost  entirely  abandoned  on 
account  of  its  disagreeable  odor.  The  tincture  can  qnly 
be  employed,  when  very  old,  for  cheap  perfumes. 

Benzoin  tincture. — Benzoin  (Siam)  2  Ibs.,  best  quality 
of  alcohol  3  quarts. 

Convert  the  benzoin  into  a  coarse  powder,  bring  it 
into  a  flask,  add  the  alcohol  and  shake  thoroughly. 
Solution  takes  place  in  10  to  12  days. 

Siam  benzoin  is  the  finest  and  most  expensive  and  is 
indispensable  for  JExtraits  d'Odeurs.  For  cheaper  pro- 
ducts of  perfumery,  Sumatra  benzoin  answers  very  well. 

Peru-baham  tincture. — Peru  balsam  8  ozs.,  best  quality 
of  alcohol  5  quarts. 

Tolu-balsam  tincture. — Tolu  balsam  3  Ibs.,  best  quality 
of  alcohol  5  quarts. 

Bring  the  alcohol  into  a  bottle.  Tolu  balsam  cannot 
be  reduced  to  a  powder,  hence  it  is  necessary  to  keep  it 
right  cool,  whereby  it  becomes  brittle  so  that  it  can  be 


230  MANUFACTURE   OF   PERFUMERY. 

cut  up  with  a  sharp  instrument  and  a  hammer.  The 
pieces  detached  are  rapidly  brought  into  the  alcohol,  so- 
lution taking  place  in  about  14  days.  If  the  alcohol 
were  added  to  the  tolu  balsam,  the  latter  would  ball 
together,  rendering  solution  very  difficult.  Frequent 
vigorous  shaking  is  necessary. 

Olibanum  tincture. — Olibanum  2  Ibs.,  best  quality  of 
alcohol  4  quarts. 

Eeduce  the  olibanum  to  as  fine  a  powder  as  possible, 
bring  it  into  a  flask,  add  the  alcohol  and  shake  fre- 
quently. 

Opopanax  tincture. — Opopanax  2  Ibs.,  best  quality  of 
alcohol  4  quarts. 

Reduce  the  opopanax  to  a  coarse  powder,  bring  it  into 
a  bottle,  add  the  alcohol  and  shake  frequently. 

Storax  tincture. — Storax  liquidus  4  Ibs.,  alcohol  of  best 
quality  5  quarts. 

Bring  the  alcohol  first  into  the  flask.  Then  place  the 
pot  containing  the  storax  in  warm  water  until  it  becomes 
more  liquid,  and  then  pour  it  in  very  thin  threads  into 
the  flask.  Shake  frequently. 

Myrrh  tincture. — Myrrh  1  lb.,  best  quality  of  alcohol 
2  quarts. 

Musk-seed  or  abelmosk  tincture. — Abelmosk  grains  21 
ozs.,  best  quality  of  alcohol  2  J  quarts. 

Reduce  the  grains  to  a  fine  powder,  bring  the  powder 
into  a  bottle,  and  add  the  alcohol.  This  tincture  abel- 
moschi  fulfils  its  object  as  a  fixing  agent  only  when 
about  one  year  old,  when  it  possesses  a  very  fine  aroma. 

Abelmosk  grains  are  the  seeds  of  a  plant  (Abelmoschus 
moschatus  Monch;  Hebiscus  abelmoschus,  L.)  indigenous 
to  Central  Africa,  Arabia,  and  India.  They  are  reddish- 


ALCOHOLIC   PERFUMES.  231 

gray,  kidney-shaped,  slightly  corrugated  on  the  surface, 
and  of  an  agreeble  musk-like  odor.  The  substance  pro- 
.ducing  the  musk  odor  lies  in  the  seed  coat.  The  odor 
becomes  very  pronounced  on  rubbing  the  seeds  between 
the  hands. 

Angelica  root  tincture. — Angelica  root  16  ozs.,  best 
quality  of  alcohol  2  quarts. 

Bruise  or  rasp  the  root,  bring  it  into  a  bottle,  add  the 
alcohol,  and  shake  frequently. 

Orris-root  tincture. — Pulverized  orris  root  of  best 
quality  2  lbsv  alcohol  of  best  quality  3  quarts. 

Pulverize  the  root,  bring  it  into  a  glass  flask,  and  add 
the  alcohol.  The  powder  having  a  great  tendency  to 
ball  together,  it  is  necessary  to  shake  five  or  six  times 
daily,  and  continue  to  do  so  for  14  days.  In  straining 
off  the  tincture,  it  is  advisable  to  bring  the  entire  con- 
tents of  the  flask  upon  a  close  linen  cloth  stretched  over 
a  tin  vessel.  The  orris-root  powder  remaining  upon  the 
cloth  after  the  tincture  has  run  off  is  returned  to  the 
flask,  and  fresh  alcohol  added  in  order  to  obtain  a 
second  extract. 

Musk-root  or  sumbul-root  tincture. — Sumbul  root  1  lb., 
best  quality  of  alcohol  2J  quarts. 

Proceed  in  the  same  manner  as  given  under  angelica- 
root  tincture. 

Tonka-bean  tincture. — Tonka  beans  8  ozs.,  alcohol  of 
best  quality  3  pints. 

The  tonka  bean  is  of  great  importance  for  perfumery. 
The  tincture  prepared  from  it  has  an  agreeable,  pene- 
trating odor,  and  in  mixing  it  with  other  odors,  great 
care  has  to  be  exercised,  so  that  the  tonka  odor  is  not 
too  prominent.  The  tincture  is  prepared  as  follows  : 


232  MANUFACTURE   OF    PERFUMERY. 

Bring  the  beans,  without  comminuting  them  or  remov- 
ing the  white  coating  adhering  to  them,  into  a  flask, 
add  the  alcohol,  and  let  the  whole  macerate,  with  fre- 
quent shaking,  for  about  14  days.  Then  filter  off  the 
fluid.  The  tincture  prepared  in  this  manner  only  con- 
tains the  cumarin  found  as  a  white  coating  upon  the 
beans,  and  is  used  only  for  the  finest  products.  Now 
take  the  beans  from  the  flask,  comminute  them,  return 
them  to  the  flask,  and  add  1J  quarts  of  alcohol.  This 
extract  gives  an  excellent  tincture  suitable  for  products 
of  medium  quality. 

Cumarin  tincture. — Cumarin  5}  drachms,  best  quality 
of  alcohol  1  quart. 

Heliotropin  tincture. — The  white  crystals  of  heliotropin 
yield  with  alcohol  a  solution  clear  as  water,  which  is  much 
used  in  the  preparation  of  Extrait  heliotrope. 

Vanilla  tincture. — Best  quality  of  Bourbon  vanilla 
5J  ozs.,  alcohol  of  best  quality  2  quarts. 

To  prepare  the  tincture  proceed  as  follows  :  Cut  the 
so-called  vanilla  pods  lengthwise  and  then  into  as  small 
pieces  as  possible,  and  bring  the  latter  together  with  the 
alcohol  into  a  flask.  Some  perfumers  triturate  the  com- 
mimuted  vanilla  with  sugar  in  a  porcelain  mortar, 
whereby  the  small-seed  bodies  contained  in  the  pod 
are  ground  up,  and  a  better  yield  is  claimed  to  be 
obtained.  Though  by  this  trituration  a  tincture  of  a 
darker  color  may  be  obtained,  the  color  alone  is  by  no 
means  a  proof  of  the  strength  of  the  tincture.  Care 
must  be  had  to  bring  the  white,  downy  crystals  of 
vanillin  found  upon  the  vanilla  pods  into  the  flask. 

Vanillin  tincture. — Vanillin  1J  drachms,  alcohol  2 
quarts. 


ALCOHOLIC   PEKFTJMES.  233 

Vitivert  tincture. — Yiti  vert  rhizome  8  ozs.,  best  quality 
of  alcohol  2  quarts. 

Reduce  the  rhizome  to  as  fine  a  powder  as  possible, 
bring  the  latter  into  a  flask,  add  the  alcohol  and  .shake 
frequently. 

Juniper-berry  tincture. — Juniper  berries  2  Ibs.,  best 
quality  of  alcohol  5  pints. 

The  juniper  berries  (the  fruits  of  Juniperus  communis, 
L.)  are  comminuted,  and  the  alcohol  is  poured  over 
them. 

Patchouli  extract* — Patchouli  leaves  1  lb.,best  quality 
of  alcohol  5  pints. 

Bring  the  pulverized  leaves  into  a  bottle  and  add  the 
alcohol.  The  tincture  from  patchouli  leaves  being  dark- 
green  is  not  suitable  for  the  preparation  of  Extrafa, 
since  white  substances  are  colored  grass-green  by  it ; 
only  traces  of  the  tincture  may  be  used  for  the  purpose 
of  giving  the  Extr ait 'patchouli  a  greenish  shade  of  color. 
The  tincture  may,  however,  be  utilized  for  milled 
patchouli  soaps. 

From  many  of  the  above-mentioned  perfume-sub- 
stances, which  serve  for  the  peparation  of  tinctures  and 
are  not  entirely  soluble  in  alcohol,  but  leave  a  residue 
after  extraction,  a  second  infusion  may  be  made.  Musk, 
castor,  and  the  resins  dissolve  completely,  there  remain- 
ing behind  only  the  impurities  and  any  mineral  con- 
stituents present  which  possess  no  aroma.  But  all 
residues  from  woods,  fruits,  etc.,  are  suitable  for  a  second 
extraction,  most  of  the  tinctures  thus  obtained  being 
quite  aromatic,  and,  as  will  be  seen  later  on  in  giving 

*  Compare  patchouli  oil,  p.  130. 


234  MANUFACTURE   OF   PERFUMERY. 

receipts,  can  be  very  advantageously  utilized.  For  the 
second  extraction  less  alcohol  has  to  be  taken  than  for 
the  first. 

Since  many  perfumers  consider  it  of  greater  advantage 
and  more  suitable  to  first  dissolve  the  volatile  oils  used 
for  the  Extraits  d'Odeurs,  and  to  prepare  a  tincture  in 
this  manner,  several  receipts  for  the  purpose  are  given 
below.  In  the  receipts  for  perfumery  given  in  the  next 
following  sections,  the  volatile  oils  are  specified  as  such, 
and  not  as  tinctures,  because  the  Extraits  d'Odeurs 
containing  evidently  much  non-saturated  alcohol,  the 
volatile  oils  will  in  time  completely  dissolve  in  them. 
An  exception  to  this  rule  might  be  ylang-ylang  oil 
and  perhaps  orris-root  oil.  Ylang-ylang  oil  is  soluble 
with  difficulty,  even  in  very  strong  alcohol,  and  if 
directly  used  for  the  Extrait,  the  latter  remains  turbid 
for  weeks,  and  frequently,  especially  in  winter,  does  not 
become  clear,  notwithstanding  repeated  filtering.  How- 
ever, by  preparing  in  good  time  an  ylang-ylang  tincture 
this  evil  is  avoided. 

</  Almond-oil  (bitter)  tincture. —  Bitter  almond  oil  2| 
drachms,  alcohol*  1  quart. 

Balm-oil  tincture. — Balm  oil  5J  drachms,  alcohol  1 
quart. 

Basil-oil  tincture. — Basil  oil  14  drachms,  alcohol  1 
quart. 

v      Bergamot-oil  tincture. — Bergamot  oil  3J  ozs.,  alcohol 
4  quarts. 

Canango-oil  tincture. — Canango  oil  (Java),  If  ozs., 
alcohol  1  quart. 

*  For  all  the  tinctures,  95  to  97  per  cent,  alcohol  of  the  best 
quality  is  to  be  used. 


ALCOHOLIC   PERFUMES.  235 

Cassia-oil    tincture. — Cassia  oil   If   ozs.,   alcohol    1 
quart. 

Cedar-oil  tincture. — Cedar  oil  1  oz.,  alcohol  1  quart. 
•^  Cinnamon-oil    tincture. — Ceylon     cinuamon    oil    5J 
drachms,  alcohol  1  quart. 

Citronella-oil  tincture. — Citronella  oil  1  oz.,  alcohol  1 
quart. 

y    v   Clove-oil  tincture. — Oil  of  cloves  1 1  drachms,  alcohol 
1  quart. 

Eucalyptus-oil  tincture. — Eucalyptus  oil  1  oz.,  alcohol 
1J  quarts. 

•    Geranium-oil  tincture. — Pal  ma  rosa  oil  14  drachms, 
alcohol  1  quart. 

Lavender-oil  tincture. — Lavender  oil  If  ozs.,  alcohol 
1  quart. 

Lemon-grass-oil  tincture. — Lemon-grass  oil  1  oz.,  alco- 
hol 1  quart. 

^  Lemon-oil  tincture. — Oil  of  lemons   If  ozs.,  alcohol  1 
quart. 

Licari-oil  tincture. — Licari  oil  5J  drachms,  alcohol  1 
quart. 

Myrrh-oil  tincture. — Myrrh  oil  5J  drachms,  alcohol  1 
quart. 

Neroli-oil  tincture. — Neroli  oil   5J  drachms,  alcohol  1 
quart. 

Opopanax-oil  tincture. — Opopanax  oil    5-J   drachms, 
alcohol  1  quart. 

*  +    Orris-root-oil  tincture. — Orris-root   oil    5J    dracl\ms, 
alcohol  1  quart. 

Patchouli-oil  tincture. — Patchouli   oil    5J    drachms, 
alcohol  1  quart. 


236  MANUFACTURE   OF   PERFUMERY. 

Petit-grain-oil  tincture. — Petit-grain  oil  11  drachms, 
alcohol  1  quart. 

Pine-leaf-oil  tincture. — Pine-leaf  oil*  14  drachms, 
alcohol  1  quart. 

Portugal-oil  tincture. — Portugal  oil  If  ozs.,  alcohol  1 
quart. 

ix  Sandal-wood-oil     tincture.  —  Sandal-wood  f    oil     5J 
drachms,  alcohol  1  quart. 

Verbena-oil  tinctur*. — Verbena  oil  11  drachms,  alco- 
hol 1  quart. 

Vitivert-oil  tincture. — Vitivert  oil  2f  drachms,  alcohol 
1  quart. 

Wintergreen-oil  tincture. — Wintergreen  oil  5J  drachms, 
alcohol  1  quart. 

*    Ylang-ylang-oil  tincture. — Ylang-ylang  oil  1 1  drach ms, , 
alcohol  3  quarts. 

Rose-oil  tincture^ — Rose  oil  (Turkish)J  If  ozs.,  alcohol 
6J  quarts. 

Rose  oil,  if  directly  added  to  the  alcohol,  dissolves  with 
difficulty  and  incompletely.  By  the  following  method 
the  object  is,  however,  readily  accomplished  : — 

Bring  about  5J  ozs.  of  pulverized  sugar  into  a  capa- 
cious porcelain  mortar,  add  the  rose  oil  and  mix  inti- 
mately with  the  pestle.  Then  pour  the  thickly-fluid 
mass  through  a  glass  funnel  into  a  glass  flask  and  rinse 
the  mortar  with  alcohol  until  the  prescribed  6J  quarts 
of  the  latter  have  been  brought  into  the  flask.  Fre- 

*  By  pine-leaf  oil  is  understood  pine  oil  or  dwarf-pine  oil.  See 
p.  149. 

f  The  better  quality  of  oil  from  the  East  Indian  wood  is  to  be  used, 
t  Bulgarian  rose  oil  is  generally  designated  "  Turkish  rose  oil." 


ALCOHOLIC   PERFUMES.  237 

quent  shaking  accelerates  the  complete  solution  of  the 
rose  oil. 

EXTRAITS  AUX  FLEURS.  We  now  proceed  to  give 
receipts  for  Extraits  $  Odeurs,  and  consider  first  the  flower 
odors,  Extraits  auxfleurs.  By  extracts  are  thereby  under- 
stood the  odors  extracted  from  French  flower  pomades. 
Any  coloring  matter  required  is  mentioned  under  the  re- 
spective receipts. 

Great  care  has  to  be  exercised  in  the  preparation  of 
Extraits  and  Bouquets,  and  special  attention  must  be 
paid  that  they  actually  represent  the  odor  whose  name 
they  bear. 

Extrait  acacia. — Extract  No.  1  from  Pomm.  Acacia 
750  drachms,  bergamot  oil  1,  lavender  oil  1,  eucalyptus 
oil  J,  orris-root  tincture  125,  musk-root  tincture  12J, 
ambergris  tincture  2J,  civet  tincture  1,  musk  tincture  1. 
-  Extrait  cassie. — Extracts  No.  1  from  Pomm.  Cassie 
500  drachms,  from  Pomm.  Tubereuse  125,  bergamot  oil 
5,  orris-root  tincture  75,  tinctures  of  vitivert  and  angelica 
each  12J,  tinctures  of  musk  and  ambergris  each  2J. 
**~  Extrait  heliotrope  (Receipt  No.  1). — Extracts  No.  1 
from  Pomm.  Heliotrope  750  drachms,  and  from  Pomm. 
Rose  75,  bergamot  oil  2|,  rose-geranium  oil  1J,  musk 
tincture  2J,  civet  tincture  1J,  heliotropin  tincture  50. 

Extrait  heliotrope  (Receipt  No.  2). — Extracts  No.  1 
from  Pomm.  Heliotrope  500  drachms,  and  from  Pomm. 
Rose  and  Pomm.  Orange  50  each,  bergamot  oil  5,  clove 
oil  2  J,  vanilla  tincture  50,  orris-root  tincture  100,  musk- 
root  tincture  25,  tinctures  of  musk  and  civet  5  each, 
benzoin  tincture  10,  Peru-balsarn  tincture  5. 

Extrait  jacinthe. — Extracts  No.  1  from  Pomm.  Jacinthe 
750  drachms,  and  from  Pomm.  Acacia  100 ;  bergamot 


238  MANUFACTURE   OF   PERFUMERY. 

oil  5,  clove  oil  1,  storax  tincture  2},  musk-root  tincture 
12},  tinctures  of  musk  and  ambergris  1}  each. 

Extrait  jasmin. — Extracts  No.  1  from  Pomm.  Jasmin 
500  drachms,  and  from  Pomm.  Orange  100 ;  civet  tinc- 
ture 1 J,  ambergris  tincture  1,  sandal-wood  oil  3  drops. 

Essence  of  the  odor  of  linden  blossoms. — Extracts  No. 
1  from  Pomm.  Acacia  250  drachms,  from  Pomm.  Jas- 
min 50,  and  from  Pomm.  Jonquille  100 ;  pure  camomile  oil 
1 J,  oil  of  lemons  2J,  ambergris  tincture  5,  civet  tincture  3. 

Extrait  jonquille. — Extract  No.  1  from  Pomm.  Jon- 
quille 750  drachms,  lavender  oil  J,  bergamot  oil  2J, 
Ceylon  cinnamon  oil  J,  storax  tincture  1},  tinctures  of 
abelmosk  and  angelica  each  5,  musk  tincture  1},  civet 
tincture  1. 

Extrait  magnolia. — Extracts  No.  1  from  Pomm.  Tube- 
reuse  150  drachms,  from  Pomm.  Acacia  250,  and  from 
Pomm.  Rose  125,  balm  oil  2J,  tinctures  of  vanilla  and 
cumarin  each  12J,  civet  tincture  1},  musk  tincture  2}. 

Extrait  muguet  (lily  of  the  valley). — Extracts  No.  1 
from  Pomm.  Jonquille  750  drachms,  from  Pomm.  Jas- 
min 100,  from  Pomm.  Tubereuse  200,  and  from  Pomm. 
Acacia  and  Pomm.  Orange  each  100  ;  bergamot  oil  7} 
drachms,  oil  of  lemons  2},  angelica  oil  3  drops,  storax 
tincture  5  drachms,  musk  tincture  2},  vanilla  tincture  5, 
ambergris  tincture  2,  ylang-ylang  tincture  100,  winter- 
green  tincture  25,  bitter-almond-oil  tincture  2J. 

Extrait  fleurs  de  Mai  (May  flowers). — Extract  No.  1 
from  Pomm.  Reseda,  Pomm.  Rose  and  Pomm.  Helio- 
trope, each  75  drachms;  from  Pomm.  Jasmin  125,  and 
from  Pomm.  Orange  50 ;  bergamot  oil  7},  Ceylon  cinna- 
mon oil  2},  orris-root  tincture  50,  tinctures  of  ambergris 
and  musk,  each  15,  ylang-ylang  tincture  25. 


ALCOHOLIC   PERFUMES.  239 

Extrait  ixora. — Extracts  No.  1  from  Pomm.  Tubereuse 
125  drachms,  from  Pomm.  Cassie  and  Pomm.  Reseda, 
each  175  ;  bergaoiot  oil  5,  orrris-root  tincture  125,  musk 
tincture  10,  benzoin  tincture  25. 

f  Extrait  Orange. — Extracts  No.  1  from  Pomm.  Orange 
500  drachms,  from  Pomm.  Acacia  100  ;  Portugal  oil  7  J, 
tinctures  of  musk  and  ambergris,  each  1. 

Extrait  white  rose. — Rose-oil  tincture  from  Turkish 
rose  oil  500  drachms,  bergamot  oil  1 J,  sandal- wood  oil  3 
drops,  nutmeg  oil  1  drop,  musk  tincture  f  drachm,  civet 
tincture  J  drachm. 

Extrait  rose  v.  d.  centifolie. —  Extract  No.  1  from 
Pomm.  Rose  500  drachms,  rose-oil  tincture  from  Turkish 
rose  oil  500,  rose-geranium  oil  10,  musk  tincture,  2J, 
sandal-wood  oil,  7  drops. 

Extrait  violette. — Extracts  No.  1  from  Pomm.  Violette 
500  drachms,  and  from  Pomm.  Cassie  250 ;  orris-root 
tincture  125,  musk  tincture  1J,  sandal-wood  oil  3  drops. 

To  give  the  extrait  violette  an  apparently  greater  con- 
centration, it  is  compounded  with  a  green  coloring 
tincture.  The  latter  may  be  prepared  by  bringing  com- 
minuted dried  spinach  leaves  into  a  bottle  and  pouring 
96  per  cent,  alcohol  over  them.  The  result  is  a  hand- 
some green  coloring  matter ;  but  care  must  be  taken  not 
to  add  too  much  of  it  to  the  extrait,  as  otherwise  it 
might  stain  the  handkerchief,  etc.* 

Extrait  de  violette  de  Parme. — Extract  No.  1  from 

*  This  spinach  extract  unfortunately  bleaches  very  rapidly 
when  exposed  to  light,  and  the  extraits  colored  with  it  acquire  a 
dirty-brown  color.  Hence  it  is  recommended  to  use  the  "  green 
tincture,"  which  can  be  purchased  from  the  larger  manufactories  of 
volatile  oils. 


240  MANUFACTURE   OF   PERFUMERY. 

Pomm.  Violette  750  drachms,  orris-root  oil  and  bergamot 
oil  each  2J,  tinctures  of  musk,  ambergris,  and  bitter- 
almond  oil  each  1J. 

This  extrait  may  also  be  colored  slightly  green. 

Extrait  tubereuse. — Extract  No.  1  from  Pomm.  Tube- 
reuse  500  drachms,  bergamot  oil  2  J,  Ceylon  cinnamon  oil 
J,  musk  tincture  1J,  storax  tincture  2J. 

Extrait  reseda. — Extracts  No.  1  from  Pomm.  Reseda 
750  drachms,  and  from  Pomm.  Violette  100 ;  bergamot 
oil  7J,  rose-geranium  oil  2J,  clove  oil  1J,  musk  tincture 
2,  ambergris  tincture  1. 

A  trace  of  the  above-mentioned  green  coloring  sub- 
stance may  be  added. 

^  Extrait  ylang-ylang. — Extracts  No.  1  from  Pomm. 
Jasmin,  Pomm.  Jonquille,  Pomm.  Orange,  and  Pomm. 
Acacia,  each  250  drachms,  bergamot  oil  7J,  angelica 
oil  2J,  ylang-ylang  tincture  500,  abelmosk  tincture  25, 
tonka-bean  extract  7J,  musk  tincture  4,  ambergris  tinc- 
ture 2J. 

COMPOUND  ODORS  (BOUQUETS).  Extrait  Edelweiss. 
— Extracts  No.  1  from  Pomm.  Jasmin  and  Pomm,.  Tube- 
reuse  250  drachms  each,  and  from  Pomm.  Orange,  Pomm. 
Heliotrope,  and  Pomm.  Jacinthe  125  each,  bergamot  oil 
10,  basil  oil  5,  tinctures  of  musk  and  ambergris  each  5, 
bitter-almond-oil  tincture  2J,  tinctures  of  angelica  and 
vitivert  each  25. 

^  Extrait  ess-bouquet. — Extracts  No.  1  from  Pomm. 
Acacia  and  Pomm.  Cassie  each  100  drachms,  from 
Pomm.  Jasmin  325,  from  Pomm.  Rose  75,  and  from 
Pomm.  Orange  250 ;  bergamot  oil  40,  Ceylon  cinna- 
mon oil  and  clove  oil  each  5,  French  rose-geranium 
oil  10,  sandal-wood  oil  2J,  licari  oil  8,  rose-oil  tincture 


ALCOHOLIC    PERFUMES.  241 

from  Turkish  rose  oil  75,  orris-root  tincture  50,  tinc- 
tures of  ambergris  and  civet  each  10,  musk  tincture  15, 
musk-root  tincture  37  J,  benzoin  tincture  15. 

Extrait  spring  flower. — Extracts  No.  1  from  Pomm. 
Jasmin,  Pomm.  Cassie,  Pomm.  Orange,  Pomm.  Jonquille, 
Pomm.  Tubereuse,  and  Pomm.  Violdte  each  100  drachms, 
from  Pomm.  Rose  50,  from  Pomm.  Reseda  100,  and  from 
Pomm.  Heliotrope  and  Pomm.  Acacia  each  50 ;  neroli  oil 
2J,  bergamot  oil  5,  vitivert  oil  J,  rose-oil  tincture  from 
Turkish  rose  oil  50,  musk-root  tincture  12J,  musk  tinc- 
ture 5,  civet  tincture  2J,  orris-root  tincture  25. 

Extrait  bouquet  Eugenie. — Extracts  No.  1  from  Pomm. 
Cassie  100  drachms,  from  Pomm.  Tubereuse  75,  from 
Pomm.  Jasmin  125 ;  bergamot  oil  10,  licari  oil  2J,  rose- 
oil  tincture  from  Turkish  rose  oil  75,  musk-root  tinc- 
ture 10,  cumarin  tincture  7J,  orVis-root  tincture  75, 
tinctures  of  angelica  and  musk  each  10,  ambergris  tinc- 
ture 5. 

Extrait  excelsior. — Extracts  No.  1  from  Pomm.  Jasmin 
200  drachms  and  from  Pomm.  Orange  and  Pomm.  Helio- 
trope each  100 ;  oils  of  lemon  and  rose  geranium  each  4, 
rose-oil  tincture  from  Turkish  rose  oil  60,  orris-root 
tincture  50,  musk  tincture  5,  abelmosk  tincture  10, 
opopanax  tincture  5,  storax  tincture  1. 

Extrait  Frangipani. — Extracts  No.  1  from  Pomm. 
Cassie  1 50  drachms,  and  from  Pomm.  Jasmin  50 ; 
French  rose  geranium  oil  5,  cassia  oil  2,  licari  oil  3, 
sandal-wood  oil  1,  orris-root  tincture  100,  angelica  tinc- 
ture 8,  musk  tincture  5,  storax  tincture  5. 

Extrait  jockey  club. — Extracts  No.  1  from  Pomm. 
Orange  150  drachms,  from  Pomm.  Rose  35,  from  Pomm. 
Jasmin  150,  and  from  Pomm.  Jonquille  and  Pomm.  Helio- 
16 


242  MANUFACTURE   OF   PERFUMERY. 

trope  each  30 ;  bergamot  oil  8,  Ceylon  cinnamon  oil  2, 
Portugal  oil  6-,  cedar  oil  1,  clove  oil  2,  tincture  of  rose 
oil  from  Turkish  rose  oil  and  of  orris  root  each  40,  musk- 
root  tincture  8,  musk  tincture  10,  ambergris  tincture  3, 
vanilla  tincture  5. 

Extrait  opopanax. — Extracts  No.  1  from  Pomm. 
Orange  250  drachms,  and  from  Pomm.  Heliotrope  125  ; 
opopanax  oil  10,  Ceylon  cinnamon  oil  5,  rose-oil  tincture 
from  Turkish  rose  oil  125,  opopanax  tincture  25,  orris- 
root  tincture  62  J,  musk  tincture  4,  ambergris  tincture  5. 

Extrait  patchouly. — Extract  No.  1  from  Pomm.  Acacia 
100  drachms,  patchouli  oil  4,  clove  oil  and  Portugal  oil, 
each  2,  rose-oil  tincture  from  Turkish  rose  oil  40,  orris- 
root  tincture  30,  musk-root  tincture  10,  vitivert  tincture 
10,  patchouli  tincture  1. 

Extrait  millefleurs'. — Extracts  No.  1  from  Pomm.  Jas- 
min 250  drachms,  from  Pomm.  Jonquille  100,  Pomm. 
Rose  75,  Pomm.  Acacia.  100,  Pomm.  Orange  and  Pomm. 
Tubereuse  each  150,  and  Pomm.  Cassie  100;  bergamot 
oil  20,  rose  geranium  oil  and  Portugal  oil  each  15,  oils 
of  angelica  and  sandal  wood,  each  5,  rose-oil  tincture 
from  Turkish  rose  oil  150,  orris-root  tincture  250, 
vanilla  tincture  15,  musk-root  tincture  35,  tolu-balsam 
tincture  10,  tinctures  of  storax  and  patchouli  each  5, 
musk  tincture  30,  civet  tincture  25. 

Extrait  bouquet  Victoria. — Extracts  No.  1  from  Pomm. 
Rose  200  drachms,  Pomm.  Orange  and  Pomm.  Tubereuse, 
each  100,  Pomm.  Jasmin  300,  and  Pomm.  Heliotrope  200 ; 
lemon  oil  20,  verbena  oil  5,  French  rose  geranium  oil  10, 
musk  tincture  20,  tinctures  of  civet  and  ambergris  each  5, 
musk-root  tincture  40,  tolu-balsam  tincture  20,  orris-root 
tincture  150. 


ALCOHOLIC   PERFUMES.  243 

Extrait  kiss-me-quick. — Extracts  No.  1  from  Pomm. 
Acacia  and  Pomm.  Jonquille  each  100  drachms,  and 
Pomm.  Jasmin  40;  bergamot  oil  4,  oil  of  lemons  2, 
rose-oil  tincture  from  Turkish  rose  oil  30,  tinctures  of 
vitivert  and  angelica  8,  ambergris  tincture  4,  civet  tinc- 
ture 2,  mnsk  tincture  1. 

Extrait  mogadore. — Extracts  No.  1  from  Pomm.  Jas- 
min 100  drachms,  from  Pomm.  Jonquille  and  Pomm. 
Acacia,  each  50,  from  Pomm.  Orange  40;  bergamot 
oil  6,  oil  of  lavender  1,  French  rose  geranium  oil  2, 
tinctures  of  musk,  ambergris,  tolu  balsam,  and  cnmarin, 
each  10,  tincture  of  orris  root  50. 

Extrait  bouquet  Prince  Albert. — Extracts  No.  1  from 
Pomm.  Jasmin  150  drachms,  from  Pomm.  Tubereuse, 
Pomm.  Orange,  and  Pomm.  Cassie  each  50,  Pomm.  Rose 
25,  neroli  oil  2,  bergamot  oil  4,  musk  tincture  2,  tonka 
bean  extract  4,  angelica  tincture  10,  ambergris  tincture  2. 

Extrait  muse. — Extracts  No.  1  from  Pomm.  Orange, 
Pomm.  Heliotrope,  and  Pomm.  Cassie  each  50  drachms  ; 
clove  oil  4,  cassia  oil  2,  tinctures  of  abelmosk  and  musk- 
root  each  10,  opopanax  tincture  4,  musk  tincture  30, 
civet  tincture  5,  orris-root  tincture  50. 

Extrait  new-mown  hay- — Extracts  No.  1  from  Pomm. 
Reseda  200  drachms,  Pomm.  Rose  40,  Pomm.  Cassie  80, 
Pomm.  Acacia  40  ;  French  rose  geranium  oil  4,  berga- 
mot oil  10,  myrrh  oil  5,  tonka-bean  extract  30,  vitivert 
tincture  10,  musk-root  tincture  16,  benzoin  tincture  4. 

Extrait  chypre. — Extracts  No.  1  from  Pomm.  Orange 
60  drachms,  Pomm.  Jasmin  40,  Pomm.  Cassie  110,  Pomm. 
Heliotrope  40  ;  French  rose  geranium  oil  6,  bergamot 
oil  2,  cedar  oil  f,  benzoin  tincture  4,  orris-root  tincture 


244  MANUFACTUKE   OF   PERFUMERY. 

30,  musk  tincture  5,  civet  tincture  4,  abelmosk  tinc- 
ture 10. 

Extrait  marechal. — Extracts  No.  1  from  Pomm.  Helio- 
trope and  Pomm.  Orange  each  200  drachms,  from 
Pomm.  Jasmin  75 ;  oils  of  sandal  wood  and  cloves  each 
5,  Portugal  oil  10,  cedar  oil  1,  rose-oil  tincture  from 
^Turkish  rose  oil  100,  orris-root  tincture  75,  vitivert  tinc- 
ture 25,  civet  tincture  10,  musk  tincture  20,  bitter  al- 
mond oil  tincture  1J. 

Extrait  mousseline. — Extracts  No.  1  from  Pomm.  Jas- 
min 250  drachms,  Pomm.  Rose  150,  and  Pomm.  Jonquille, 
Pomm.  Heliotrope,  and  Pomm.  Cassie,  each  125  ;  French 
rose  geranium  oil  12J,  oil  of  cloves  10,  cassia  oil  5,  win- 
tergreen  oil  1,  orris-root  tincture  125,  rose-oil  tincture 
from  Turkish  rose  oil  100,  musk  tincture  12J,  civet 
tincture  10,  vitivert  tincture  37J,  abelmosk  tincture  25. 

In  compiling  the  abundant  choice  of  receipts  for 
Extraits  d'Odeurs  given  above,  the  golden  mean  has 
been  chosen  in  regard  to  the  quality  of  these  odors,  they, 
when  carefully  prepared,  giving,  at  a  moderate  cost  of 
manufacture,  a  product  which  in  most  cases  will  satisfy 
the  demands  of  lovers  of  perfumes.  To  enable  the  per- 
fumer, however,  to  satisfy  the  highest  demands  attention 
is  called  to,  and  a  brief  explanation  given  of,  the  so-called 
"  Extraits  triple  concentres." 

For  the  preparation  of  these  stronger  products,  the 
employment  of  a  stronger  foundation,  i.  e.,  of  more 
highly  saturated  extracts  from  French  flower  pomades, 
is  required.  For  this  purpose  the  French  perfumers  pre- 
pare, under  No.  30,  flower  pomades  of  all  odors  which 
are  exclusively  used  for  concentrated  Extraite.  They 


ALCOHOLIC   PERFUMES.  245 

are,  of  course,  correspondingly  higher  in  price  than 
those  prepared  from  No.  18,  which  have  previously  been 
treated  of. 

The  method  of  preparing  the  extracts  from  these 
pomades,  No.  30,  is  the  same  as  previously  described, 
the  proportion  of  pomade  to  alcohol  being  also  the  same ; 
hence  for  2  Ibs.  of  pomade  If  quarts  of  alcohol  are  to 
be  used. 

The  proportions  of  volatile  oils  and  tinctures  given  in 
the  above  receipts  are  also  to  be  retained.  The  stronger 
extracts  from  the  flower  pomades  are  the  only  measure 
in  the  preparation  of  the  Extraits  triple  concentres,  and 
such  must  be  the  case  since  the  object  of  the  concentra- 
tion of  the  Extraits  is  thus  completely  attained  by  the 
greater  prominence  of  the  flower  odors  from  the  Extraits 
d}  Odev/rs. 

For  the  preparation  of  Extraits  d'Odeurs,  the  French 
perfumers  also  manufacture  a  concentrated  flower  extract 
of  the  various  odors.  This  extract  is  simply  dissolved 
in  alcohol,  the  solution  being  effected  immediately,  so  that 
this  method  of  preparing  Extraits  d'Odeurs  is  the  simplest 
imaginable.  However,  the  price  of  such  extract  (1000 
francs  =  $200  and  more  per  kilogramme  =  2.2  Ib.)  is  a 
considerable  item,  so  that  most  perfumers  will  prefer  the 
extracts  from  the  flower  pomades  as  previously  described. 

EXTRAITS  D'ODEURS,  QUALITY  II. — In  addition  to 
the  fine  extracts  given  in  the  preceding  section,  a  small 
selection  of  quite  cheap  receipts  for  quality  II  of  such 
extracts  is  here  given,  the  extracts  No.  2  offering  suffi- 
cient material  for  their  preparation.  In  the  introduction 
to  the  previous  section,  attention  has  been  called  to  the 
fact  that  quite  useful  tinctures  may  be  prepared  from 


246  MANUFACTURE   OF   PERFUMERY. 

substances  leaving  behind  solid  residues,  there  being  also 
on  hand  the  second  extract  from  the  flower  pomades. 

Besides  the  alcohol,  such  tinctures  and  extracts  cost 
only  the  small  trouble  of  treatment.  For  this  second 
quality  only  half  the  quantity  of  volatile  oils  prescribed 
for  the  best  quality  is  used.  Such  tinctures,  from  which 
a  second  extract  cannot  be  had,  may,  for  this  purpose,  be 
diluted  one-half  with  alcohol,  which  need  not  be  of  the 
best  quality,  thus  preparing  a  second  quality  of  them. 

The  process  to  be  followed  is  illustrated  by  a  selection 
from  the  first  Extrait  receipts  which  have  been  converted 
into  Extraits  of  quality  II. 

Extrait  violette  II. — Extracts  No.  2  from  Pomm.  Vio- 
lette  500  drachms,  from  Pomm.  Cassie  250;  bergamot 
oil  2J,  musk  tincture  No.  2,  1J,  ambergris  tincture  No. 
2,  J,  diluted  with  alcohol  },  bitter  almond  oil  tincture 
No.  2,  1,  orris-root  tincture  No.  2,  125. 

Add  a  small  quantity  of  green  coloring  substance. 

Extrait  rose  II. — Extract  No.  2  from  Pomm.  Rose  500 
drachms,  African  rose  geranium  oil  4,  sandal-wood  oil 
3  drops,  musk  tincture  No.  2,  2J  drachms,  rose-oil  tinc- 
ture from  Turkish  rose  oil  250  drachms  diluted  with  an 
equal  quantity  of  alcohol,  which  may  be  called  rose 
tincture  No.  2. 

Extrait  reseda  II. — Extracts  No.  2  from  Pomm. 
Reseda  750  drachms  and  from  Pomm.  Violette  100,  ber- 
gamot oil  3J,  African  rose-geranium  oil  1,  clove  oil  1, 
musk  tincture  No.  2,  2,  ambergris  tincture  J  diluted 
with  alcohol  J. 

•  Extrait  ylang-ylang  II. — Extracts  No.  2  from 
Pomm.  Jasmin,  Pomm.  Jonquillej  Pomm.  Orange,  and 
Pomm.  Acacia  each  250  drachms ;  bergamot  oil  3J, 


ALCOHOLIC   PERFUMES.  247 

angelica  oil  1J,  ylang-ylang  tincture  250  diluted  with 
the  equal  quantity  of  alcohol,  abelmosk  No.  2,  25,  tonka- 
bean  extract  No.  2,  7J,  musk  tincture  No.  2,  4,  amber- 
gris tincture  1J  diluted  with  the  same  quantity  of 
alcohol. 

Extrait  new-mown  hay  II. — Extracts  No.  2  from 
Pomm.  Reseda  500  drachms,  from  Pomm.  Rose  100, 
from  Pomm.  Cassie  200  and  Pomm.  Acacia  100  ;  pal  ma 
rosa  oil  5,  bergamot  oil  12J,  myrrh  oil  6,  tonka-bean 
extract  No.  2,  75,  vitivert  tincture  No.  2,  25,  musk- 
root  tincture  No  2,  40,  benzoin  tincture  5  diluted  with 
the  same  quantity  of  alcohol. 

Extrait  chypre  II. — Extracts  No.  2,  from  Pomm. 
Orange  150  drachms,  from  Pomm.  Jasmin  100,  Pomm. 
Cassie  275,  and  Pomm.  Heliotrope  100;  palma  rosa  oil 
7J,  bergamot  oil  2J,  cedar  oil  f ,  orris-root  tincture  No. 
2,  75,  musk  tincture  No.  2,  12J,  abelmosk  tincture  No. 
2,  25,  civet  tincture  5  diluted  with  alcohol  5,  benzoin 
tincture  5  diluted  with  alcohol  5. 

Extrait  ess.  bouquet  II. — Extracts  No.  2  from  Pomm. 
Acacia  and  Pomm.  Cassie  each  100,  from  Pomm.  Jasmin 
375,  Pomm.  Rose  75,  Pomm.  Orange  250;  bergamot  oil 
20,  Ceylon  cinnamon  oil  and  clove  oil  each  2J,  African 
rose  geranium  oil  5,  sandal-wood  oil  If,  licari  oil  2, 
rose-oil  tincture  from  Turkish  rose  oil  37J  diluted  with 
an  equal  quantity  of  alcohol,  orris-root  tincture  No.  2, 
50,  ambergris  tincture  5  diluted  with  an  equal  quantity 
of  alcohol,  civet  tincture  5  diluted  with  an  equal  quan- 
tity of  alcohol,  musk  tincture  No.  2,  15,  musk-root 
tincture  No.  2,  37  J,  benzoin  tincture  7|  diluted  with,  an 
equal  quantity  of  alcohol. 


248  MANUFACTURE   OF    PERFUMERY. 

Extrait  muguet  II. — Extracts  No.  2  from  Pomra.  Jon- 
quille  750  drachms,. Pomm.  Jasmin  100,  Pomm.  Tubereuse 
200  and  Pomm.  Acacia  and  Pomm.  Orange  each  100 ; 
bergamot  oil  3J,  oil  of  lemons  1 J,  angelica  oil  2  drops, 
storax  tincture  2|  drachms  diluted  with  an  equal  quan- 
tity of  alcohol,  musk  tincture  No.  2,  2J,  vanilla  tinc- 
ture 5,  ambergris  tincture  1,  diluted  with  an  equal 
quantity  of  alcohol,  ylang-ylang  tincture  50  diluted  with 
alcohol  50,  wintergreen  tincture  12  J  diluted  with  alco- 
hol 12J,  bitter-almond  oil  1J  diluted  with  alcohol  1J. 

Extrait  bouquet  Victoria  II. — Extracts  No.  2  from 
Pomm.  Rose  100  drachms,  Pomm.  Orange  and  Pomm. 
Tubereuse  each  50;  Pomm.  Jasmin  150,  Pomm.  Helio- 
trope 100;  lemon  oil  5,  verbena  oil  1J,  African  rose 
geranium  oil  2J,  musk  tincture  No.  2, 10,  musk-root  tinc- 
ture No.  2,  20,  orris-root  tincture  No.  2,  75,  civet  tincture 
1J  diluted  with  alcohol  1 J,  ambergris  tincture  1 J  diluted 
with  alcohol  1J,  tolu-balsam  tincture  5  diluted  with  al- 
cohol 5. 

Extrait  spring  flower  II. — Extracts  No.  2  from  Pomm. 
Jasmin,  Pomm.  Cassie,  Pomm.  Orange,  Pomm.  Jonquille, 
Pomm.  Tubereuse  and  Pomm.  Violette,  each  100  drachms, 
from  Pomm.  Rose  50,  Pomm.  Reseda  100,  and  Pomm. 
Heliotrope  and  Acacia,  each  50 ;  neroli  oil  1 J,  bergamot 
oil  2J,  vitivert  oil  13  drops,  rose-oil  tincture  from  Turkish 
rose  oil  25  drachms,  diluted  with  alcohol  25,  musk-root 
tincture  No.  2,  12J,  musk  tincture  No.  2,  12J,  orris- 
root  tincture  No.  2,  25,  civet  tincture  1J  diluted  with 
alcohol  1J. 

Extrait  ixora  II. — Extracts  No.  2  from  Pomm.  Tube- 
reuse  1 25  drachms,  from  Pomm.  Cassie  and  Pomm.  Reseda 
each  175;  bergamot  oil  2J,  orris-root  tincture  No.  2,  125, 


ALCOHOLIC   PERFUMES.  249 

musk  tincture  No.  2,  10,  benzoin  tincture  12  J  diluted 
with  alcohol  12J. 

Extrait  Frangipani  II. — Extracts  No.  2  from  Pomrn. 
Cassie  375  drachms,  and  Pomm.  Jasmin  125 ;  African 
rose  geranium  oil  12,  cassia  oil  2J,  licari  oil  3J,  sandal- 
wood  oil  1J,  orris-root  tincture  No.  2,  250,  angelica 
tincture  No.  2,  20,  musk  tincture  No.  2,  12J,  storax 
tincture  6  diluted  with  alcohol  6J. 

Cologne  water ,  eait  de  Cologne. — Owing  to  its  excellent 
properties,  Cologne  water  is,  without  doubt,  one  of  the 
most  popular  perfumes.  It  was  invented  early  in  the 
eighteenth  century,  and  is  perhaps  the  only  perfume 
which  has  kept  its  reputation  for  so  long  a  time.  It 
was  formerly  employed  as  a  medicine  in  all  imaginable 
diseases,  and  even  now  is  in  some  cases  successfully  used 
in  slight  ailments,  such  as  headache,  nausea,  etc. 

The  success  and  reputation  of  Cologne  water  are  the 
natural  results  of  a  good  product  prepared  with  a 
thorough  knowledge  of  the  subject.  However,  in  order 
to  be  enabled  to  impart  to  Cologne  water  its  generally 
known  excellent  qualities,  it  is  necessary  to  have  a 
thorough  knowledge  of  the  materials  used,  as  well  as 
to  understand  the  method  of  fabrication,  and  the  proper 
treatment  of  all. 

For  the  preparation  of  actually  good  Cologne  water 
employment  of  the  best  materials  is  the  first  condition. 
The  alcohol  must  be  pure,  i.  e.,  free  from  fusel  oil,  and 
95  to  96  per  cent,  strong,  so  as  to  effect  a  ready  and 
complete  solution  of  the  volatile  oils.  The  latter  also 
should  be  of  the  best  quality  and  proper  age,  i.  e., 
neither  too  young  nor  too  old.  If  too  young  or  too 
recently  distilled,  the  aroma  is  not  thoroughly  de- 


250  MANUFACTURE   OF   PERFUMERY. 

veloped,  and  if,  on  the  other  hand,  too  old,  they  have 
lost  the  greater  portion  of  their  aroma,  are  thickly  fluid, 
acquire  a  dark  coloration,  and  are  finally  converted  into 
a  resinous  substance  in  which  condition  they  are  entirely 
unfit  for  finer  products.  A  cool  and  dry  cellar  is  re- 
quired for  storing  volatile  oils,  and  they  must  also  be 
protected  from  air  and  sunlight. 

Regarding  the  durability  of  the  volatile  oils  used  in 
the  preparation  of  Cologne  water,  the  following  may  be 
said : — 

Bergamot  oil  is  quite  durable ;  in  well-closed  bottles 
stored  in  a  cool  cellar  it  keeps  quite  well  for  3  to  4  years. 
Oil  of  lemons  is,  however,  very  sensitive,  and  has  to  be 
especially  protected  against  heat,  by  which  it  is  readily 
decomposed  and,  so  to  say,  turns  sour.  Freshly-distilled 
neroli  oil  should  never  be  used,  it  acquiring  its  proper 
aroma  only  after  being  stored  for  about  2  years  ;  on  the 
other  hand,  it  should  not  be  too  old.  When  6  to  8  years 
old,  it  shows  a  tendency  to  rancidity,  which  can,  how- 
ever, be  prevented  by  mixing  it  at  the  proper  time  with 
an  equal  quantity  of  alcohol  of  the  best  quality.  Petit- 
grain  oil  is  apt  to  spoil  when  kept  for  several  years,  and 
hence  it  is  not  advisable  to  have  too  large  a  supply  of  it 
on  hand.  Besides  the  French  variety  of  this  volatile 
oil,  there  has  existed  for  several  years  past  another  kind, 
namely  the  Paraguay  petit-grain  oil,  which  is  about 
one-half  cheaper  than  the  French.  While  some  con- 
sider both  oils  as  equally  good,  the  French  product  no 
doubt  deserves  the  preference.  Of  lavender  oil  only  the 
best  French  oil,  especially  made  in  France  for  the  prepa- 
ration of  Eau  de  Cologne,  should  be  used.  The  price 
of  the  English  Mitcham  lavender  oil,  being  six  times 


ALCOHOLIC    PERFUMES.  251 

that  of  the  French  oil,  is  simply  excessive.  Of  rosemary 
oil,  an  especially  fine  quality  for  Cologne  water,  which 
can  be  highly  recommended,  is  also  manufactured  in 
France.  Of  balm  oil  only  the  best  German  product 
should  be  taken.  The  three  varieties  of  volatile  oils 
last  mentioned  keep  for  years,  especially  when  kept  in 
hermetically-closed  bottles  in  a  cool  place  protected  from 
the  sun. 

Rose  water  and  orange-blossom  water  also  need  careful 
treatment,  the  bottles  containing  them  requiring  to  be 
well  stoppered  and  kept  in  a  cool  place.  These  waters 
being  liable  to  spoil,  the  supply  of  them  should  be 
renewed  from  year  to  year.  As  regards  the  compound- 
ing of  the  volatile  oils,  it  is  advisable  to  mix  them  in  a 
capacious  glass  flask,  add  at  least  an  equal  wreight  of 
alcohol  of  the  best  quality,  shake  thoroughly,  let  the 
mixture  stand  about  14  days,  and  then  in  the  apparatus 
incorporate  it  with  the  required  quantity  of  alcohol. 

When  the  alcohol  and  volatile  oils  are  intimately 
mixed,  the  mixture  is  allowed  to  stand  quietly  for 
about  14  days,  when  solution  of  the  volatile  oils  will 
be  complete.  Now  add,  with  vigorous  agitation,  the  rose 
water  and  the  orange-blossom  water,  and  let  the  whole 
stand  quietly  to  become  clear. 

Cologne  water  thus  carefully  prepared  answers  all  de- 
mands. Special  attention  is  here  called  to  the  fact  that 
all  manipulation  by  the  addition  of  fixing  or  conspicuous 
substances  is  injudicious.  An  addition  of  tincture  of 
musk  or  civet  should  particularly  be  avoided.  '"'Nervous 
people  immediately  detect  such  additions,  even  if  present 
only  in  very  small  quantities,  and  in  most  cases  refuse 
the  Cologne  water  containing  them. 


252  MANUFACTURE   OF   PERFUMERY. 

Experience  having  shown  that  all  alcoholic  perfumes 
develop  their  proper  aroma  only  after  storing  for  some 
time,  provision  must  be  made  to  have  always  a  sufficient 
supply  of  Cologne  water  on  hand.  It  is  best  to  keep  it 
in  large  glass  balloons  in  a  cool  cellar.  Wooden  vessels 
are  impracticable  on  account  of  their  permeability  and 
other  evils.  Metallic  vessels,  if  used,  should  be  tinned. 
Vessels  defective  in  this  respect,  or  tinned  with  tin  con- 
taining lead,  exert  an  injurious  effect  upon  the  aroma  of 
the  water.  In  the  latter  case,  lead  is  dissolved,  even  if 
only  in  small  quantities,  and  a  dirty  precipitate  injurious 
to  the  odor  of  the  Cologne  water  is  formed. 

The  filtering  of  the  Cologne  water  is  best  effected 
through  white  filtering  paper  and  a  glass  funnel ;  the 
paper,  however,  should  not  have  been  bleached  with 
chlorine,  the  odor  of  the  latter  being  readily  perceived 
and  having  an  injurious  effect  upon  the  aroma  of  the 
water.  Filtering  should  be  avoided  as  much  as  possible 
by  carefully  decanting  off  the  clear  water  and  filtering 
the  sediment  only.  Filtering  through  charcoal,  mag- 
nesia, or  other  clarifying  agents,  should  not  be  made 
use  of  for  fine  perfumes,  their  odor  being  injured  by  all 
such  means. 

In  the  following  a  selection  of  receipts  for  Cologne 
water  is  given  ;  it  is,  however,  especially  mentioned  that 
only  good,  pure  materials  must  be  used  even  for  the 
inferior  qualities.  A  receipt  for  the  now  fashionable 
"  Maiglockchen  Eau  de  Cologne7'  is  also  given. 

Cologne  water,  quality  I. — Bring  into  a  large  glass 
balloon  95  to  96  per  cent,  alcohol  of  the  best  quality 
7.9  gallons,  lemon  oil  14.11  ozs.,  bergamot  oil  15,  neroli 
oil  4.23,  French  extra  lavender  oil  1.05  oz.,  rosemary 


ALCOHOLIC  PERFUMES.  253 

oil  0.7,  best  German  balm  oil  0.42 ;  mix  thoroughly, 
and  after  14  days  add  best  orange-blossom  water  and 
rose  water  each  2.64  quarts.  Mix  again  thoroughly, 
and  then  let  stand  until  wanted  for  use. 

Cologne  water,  quality  II. — Bring  into  a  large  glass 
balloon  95  to  96  per  cent,  alcohol  of  the  best  quality 
7.9  gallons,  lemon  oil  10.58  ozs.,  bergamot  oil  12.34, 
neroli  oil  1.76,  French  extra  lavender  oil,  0.8,  rosemary 
oil  0.63,  finest  German  balm  oil  0.35,  French  petit-grain 
oil  0.8 ;  mix  thoroughly,  and  after  14  days  add  best 
orange-blossom  water  and  rose  water  each  2.64  quarts. 
Mix  again  thoroughly,  and  then  let  stand  until  wanted 
for  use. 

Cologne  water,  quality  III. — Bring  into  a  large  glass 
balloon  95  to  96  per  cent,  alcohol  of  the  best  quality 
7.9  gallons,  lemon  oil  7.05  ozs.,  bergamot  oil  7.94, 
Portugal  oil  3.52,  French  petit-grain  oil  1.58,  finest 
rosemary  oil  0.52,  lavender  oil  0.7,  orange-blossom  water 
and  rose  water  each  1.58  quarts,  distilled  water  2.11 
quarts.  Proceed  in  the  same  manner  as  given  for  quali- 
ties I  and  II. 

Cologne  water,  quality  IV. — Bring  into  a  large  glass 
balloon  alcohol  free  from  fusel  oil  7.9  gallons,  lavender 
oil  2.64  ozs.,  Portugal  oil  2.64,  petit-grain  oil  0.7,  rose- 
mary oil  0.52,  bergamot  oil  3.52,  lemon  oil  3.52,  dis- 
tilled water  7.9  quarts.  If  this  quality,  after  standing 
for  some  weeks,  should  not  become  clear,  use  some  mag- 
nesia in  filtering,  or  use  less  water. 

Cologne  water,  quality  V. — Bring  into  a  glass  balloon 
alcohol  free  from  fusel  oil  7.9  gallons,  Portugal  oil 
0.88  oz.,  rosemary  oil  0.88,  lavender  oil,  bergamot  oil, 
and  lemon  oil  each  1.76.  After  standing  for  14  days, 


254  MANUFACTURE   OF    PERFUMERY. 

add  7.9  quarts  of  distilled  water.  Proceed  in  the  same 
manner  as  given  for  quality  IV. 

Maiglb'ckchen  Eau  de  Cologne. — 95  to  96  per  cent,  alco- 
hol of  the  finest  quality  10.-56  quarts,  bergamot  oil  and 
lemon  oil  each  3.52  ozs.,  neroli  oil  0.7,  French  extra 
lavender  oil  0.21,  rosemary  oil  0.14,  best  German  balm 
oil  0.7,  ylang-ylang  oil  0.17,  maiglookchen  (lily  of  the 
valley)  extract  2.11  pints. 

Dissolve  the  0.17  oz.  of  ylang-ylaug  oil  by  itself  in 
0.8  pint  of  alcohol  of  the  best  quality,  and  when  the 
solution  is  entirely  clear  add  it  to  the  rest  in  the  balloon. 
After  standing  for  14  days  add  carefully  orange-blossom 
water  and  rose  water  each  1.05  pints  ;  shake  thoroughly 
and  let  the  mixture  stand  quietly  until  perfectly  clear. 

Various  other  receipts  for  Cologne  water. — I.  Bergamot 
oil  2  drachms,  oil  of  lemon  2  drachms,  oil  of  origanum 
6  drops,  oil  of  rosemary  20  drops,  alcohol  1  pint,  orange- 
flower  water  1  oz. 

II.  Bergamot  oil  14  parts,  citron  oil  34,  oil  of  neroli 
(petale)  20,  oil  of  neroli  (bigarade)  7,  rosemary  oil  14, 
grape  spirit  6000. 

III.  Cologne  spirits  3  quarts,  oils  of  rosemary,  berga- 
mot, cedrat,  and  lemon  each  2  drachms,  oil  of  neroli 
1  drachm,  water  (warm)  2  pints ;  mix,  filter  until  clear. 

IV.  Cologne  spirits  3  quarts,  oil  of  lemon  5  drachms, 
oil  of  bergamot  4  drachms,  Portugal  oil  3f  drachms, 
neroli  oil  f  drachm,  petit-grain   oil   and  rosemary  oil 
each   J  drachm,  lavender  oil   25   drops,  oil  of  cloves 
6  drops,  extract  Pomm.  jasmine  4  ozs.,  water  (warm) 
32  ozs. ;  mix. 

V.  Cologne  spirits  1  gallon,  rosemary  oil  J  oz.,  lemon 
oil  1  oz.,  lavender  oil  1J  ozs.,  cinnamon  oil  20  drops, 
warm  water  1  quart;  mix. 


ALCOHOLIC   PERFUMES.  255 

Eau  de  Lavande. — For  eau  de  lavande,  but  two  receipts 
are  given  :  Eau  de  vie  de  Lavande  double  ambree  and 
eau  de  Lavande  double,  the  former  being  a  very  agreeable 
perfume  for  toilet  purposes,  and  is  used  as  an  addition  to 
wash-water  as  well  as  to  baths  and  for  fumigating.  On 
account  of  its  balsamic  constituents,  eau  de  Lavande 
ambree  in  being  manufactured  cannot  be  mixed  with 
water,  as  the  latter  would  produce  an  emulsion  which 
cannot  be  removed.  Eau  de  Lavande  double  is  used  for 
the  toilet,  in  the  wash- water,  or  the  bath.  It  is  very 
popular,  its  action  upon  the  skin  and  nerves  being  re- 
freshing and  stimulating. 

Eau  de  vie  de  Lavande  double  ambree. — Alcohol  of  the 
best  quality  5.18  quarts,  best  quality  of  lavender  oil 
3.52  ozs.,  French  rose  geranium  oil  0.7,  oils  of  cassia, 
bergamot,  lemon,  and  French  petit  grain  each  0.88, 
Peru  balsam  5.29,  orris-root  tincture  2.11  quarts,  amber- 
gris tincture  5.29  ozs.,  musk  tincture  0.28,  storax  tinc- 
ture 8.81,  tolu-balsam  tincture  5.29,  benzoin  tincture 
10.58.  No  water  should  be  added. 

Eau  de  Lavande  double. — Best  quality  of  alcohol 
10.56  quarts,  best  lavender  oil  8.81  ozs.,  Portugal  oil 
and  bergamot  oil  each  1.76.  After  14  days  add  2.11 
pints  of  orange-blossom  water. 

Aqua  mellis. — Coriander  seed  7  Ibs.,  cloves  12  ozs., 
storax  8  ozs.,  nutmegs  (bruised)  8  ozs.,  lemon-peel  10 
ozs.,  calamus  6  ozs.,  proof  spirit  15  pints,  water  8  pints. 

Macerate  for  a  month  in  a  closed  vessel,  then  distil 
22  pints,  and  to  the  distillate  add  :  Orange-flower  water 
5  pints,  rose  oil  24  drops,  ambergris  1  grain,  vanilla  2 
ozs.  Macerate  for  8  days  and  filter. 

Eau  de  Lisbonne. — Lemon  oil  2J  ozs.,  Portugal  oil 
4J  ozs.,  rose  oil  4J  drachms,  alcohol  5  quarts. 


256  MANUFACTURE   OF   PERFUMERY. 


CHAPTER  IX. 

DRY   PERFUMES. 

IN  ancient  times  dry  perfumes  were  almost  exclusively 
used,  but,  independent  of  fumigating  agents,  which  will 
be  considered  later  on,  the  consumption  of  dry  or  solid 
perfumes  is  at  present  a  limited  one.  Sachet  powders 
(poudres  pour  sachets)  are,  however,  still  manufactured 
in  large  quantities.  The  preparation  of  solid  perfumes 
with  the  assistance  of  paraffiue  has  been  recently  com- 
menced, but  up  to  the  present  time  such  perfumes  'have 
not  become  of  any  importance.  Smelling  salts  may  also 
be  classed  among  the  dry  perfumes. 

SACHET  POWDERS. — Sachet  powders  (poudres  pour 
sachets)  are  generally  put  into  silk  or  satin  bags  or  into 
ornamental  paper  envelopes  and  are  useful  for  perfuming 
clothes,  drawers,  trunks,  desks,  letter  paper,  etc. 

The  incorporation  of  the  powders  with  bags  or 
envelopes  is  effected  by  dividing  them  between  thin 
layers  of  cotton,  bringing  the  cotton  together  with  the 
powder  in  fine  tissue  paper  into  the  shape  of  the  respec- 
tive bag,  cushion,  etc.,  and  then  inclosing  them  in  the 
bag  or  envelope. 

A  selection  of  receipts  for  such  powders  is  here  given. 
Their  manufacture  is  not  difficult ;  however,  the  weigh- 
ing off  of  the  constituents  should  be  conscientiously  done, 
and  in  mixing  the  powders  with  the  volatile  oils,  etc., 


DRY   PERFUMES.  257 

care  should  be  had  not  to  cause  any  unnecessary  dust 
and  consequent  loss  of  powder.  After  mixing,  the  pow- 
der is  passed  through  a  sieve. 

Sachet  a  la  rose. — Ground  rose  leaves,  ground  rose 
wood  and  pulverized  starch  each  50  drachms,  Turkish 
rose  oil  1J,  rose-geranium  oil  2J,  oil  of  cloves  1,  berga- 
mot  oil  2J,  musk  tincture  1. 

Sachet  a  la  violette. — Ground  orris  root  125  drachms, 
ground  lavender  flowers  and  pulverized  starch  each  50, 
liquid  orris-root  oil*  2J,  sandal-wood  oil  J,  musk  tinc- 
ture 2,  extrait  violette  25. 

Heliotrope  sachet  powder. — Ground  lavender  flowers 
50  drachms,  ground  orris  root  and  ground  rose  leaves 
each  25,  ground  benzoin  10,  pulverized  starch  50,  berga- 
mot  oil  10,  rose  geranium  oil  2J,  oil  of  cloves  and  musk 
tincture  each  1J,  vanilla  tincture  12J,  extrait  heliotrope 
25,  oil  of  bitter  almonds  2  drops. 

Ylang-ylang  sachet  powder.  —  Ground  starch  100 
drachms,  orris-root  powder  25,  ground  lavender  flowers 
12J,  ground  vitivert  root  and  ground  rose  wood  each 
25,  bergamot  oil  2J,  ylang-ylang  oil  1,  tinctures  of  musk 
and  of  cumarin  each  1J,  extrait  ylang-ylang  20. 

Jockey  club  sachet. — Ground  orris  root,  ground  rose 
leaves  and  ground  rose  wood  each  50  drachms,  ground 
lavender  flowers  25,  African  rose  geranium  oil  5,  oils 
of  Ceylon  cinnamon  and  bergamot  each  2J,  oils  of  cloves 
and  cedar  each  1,  musk  tincture  2J,  civet  tincture  1, 
extrait  jockey  club  22 J. 

*  The  so-called  liquid  orris-root  oil  is  not  pure  orris-root  oil,  but 
generally  a  distillate  of  orris-root  with  bergamot  oil ;  there  are,  how- 
ever, also  products  in  which  the  orris  root  is  distilled  with  copaiba 
balsam  oil  and  cedar  oil. 
17 


258  MANUFACTURE   OF   PERFUMERY. 

Sachet  aux  millefleurs. — Ground  starch  50  drachms, 
ground  orris  root,  ground  lavender  flowers,  ground  rose 
wood,  and  exhausted  vanilla  pulverized,  each  50  drachms, 
pulverized  cloves  20,  bergamot  oil  and  African  geranium 
oil  each  2J,  verbena  oil  1,  tincture  of  benzoin  and  musk 
root  each  5,  musk  tincture  5. 

Lily  of  the  valley  sachet  powder. — Pulverized  starch 
50  drachms,  ground  orris  root  25,  ground  lavender 
flowers  and  ground  rose  wood  each  12J,  ground  vitivert 
root  and  ground  benzoin  each  25,  bergamot  oil  5,  winter- 
green  oil  2,  ylang-ylang  oil  and  angelica  oil  each  J, 
bitter  almond  oil  2  drops,  storax  tincture  5  drachms, 
musk  tincture  1J,  extrait  muguet  25. 

Patchouli  sachet  powder. — Ground  patchouli  leaves 
100,  ground  rose  leaves  and  ground  lavender  flowers, 
each  25,  patchouli  oil  2J,  oil  of  cloves  1,  bergamot  oil 
and  African  geranium  oil  each  2J. 

Frangipani  sachet  powder.  —  Pulverized  starch  25 
drachms,  ground  orris  root  75,  ground  rose  leaves  50, 
ground  lavender  flowers  25,  Portugal  oil  5,  petit-grain 
oil  and  African  geranium  oil,  2J,  Ceylon  cinnamon  oil 
1J,  musk  tincture  2J,  civet  tincture  1J,  tinctures  of 
cumarin  and  vitivert  each  10. 

Victoria  sachet  powder. — Ground  lavender  flowers  50 
drachms,  ground  rose  wood  and  ground  rose  leaves  each 
25,  ground  orange  peel  12J,  ground  benzoin  25,  ground 
vitivert  root  12J,  Turkish  rose  oil  1,  bergamot  oil  2J, 
oils  of  cloves  and  verbena  each  1,  musk  tincture  1J, 
civet  tincture  1. 

Reseda  sachet  powder. — Ground  orris  root  100  drachms, 
ground  rose  leaves  50,  ground  rose  wood  25,  clove  oil, 
African  geranium  oil,  and  bergamot  oil  each  2J,  musk- 


DRY   PERFUMES.  259 

root  tincture  10,  vanilla  tincture  5,  musk  tincture  1, 
extrait  reseda  25. 

Musk  sachet  powder. — Ground  musk  root,  ground  ex- 
hausted musk  sacs,  and  ground  lavender  flowers,  each 
50  drachms,  ground  benzoin  25,  cassia  oil,  palma-rose 
oil,  and  clove  oil  each  2J,  musk  tincture  22J. 

Ess-bouquet  sachet  powder. — Ground  rose  wood  and 
ground  lavender  flowers  each  50  drachms,  ground  viti- 
vert  root  25,  ground  opopanax  12J,  ground  orris  root 
25,  bergamot  oil  and  lemon  oil  each  2J,  clove  oil  1, 
Ceylon  cinnamon  oil  1 J,  African  geranium  oil  2J,  sandal- 
wood  oil  and  licari  oil  each  1,  musk  tincture  2J,  civet 
tincture  1J,  extrait  ess-bouquet  25. 

Neiv-mown  hay  sachet  powder. — Pulverized  starch  25 
drachms,  ground  rose  leaves  and  ground  lavender 
flowers,  each  50,  ground  orris  root  and  ground  benzoin, 
each  25,  bergamot  oil  5,  angelica  oil  and  Java  cananga 
oil  each  1J,  tonka-bean  extract  7J,  musk  tincture  H, 
vitivert  tincture  7J. 

Orange  sachet  powder. — Ground  orange  peels  100 
drachms,  ground  lemon  peels  50,  ground  lavender 
flowers  25,  Portugal  oil  10,  neroli  oil  and  petit  grain 
oil  each  1J,  bergamot  oil  2J,  musk-tincture  1J,  musk- 
root  tincture  10. 

SOLID  PERFUMES  WITH  PARAFFINED  The  solid 
perfumes  simply  consist  of  hard  paraffine,  which,  when 
melted,  is  perfumed  with  a  corresponding  quantity  of 
any  desired  perfume-essence  and  poured  into  moulds. 
A  few  mixtures  for  such  perfumes  are  here  given  : — 

White  rose. — Rose  geranium  oil  and  bergamot  oil  each 
10  drachms,  patchouli  oil  and  oil  of  cloves  If. 


260  MANUFACTURE   OF   PERFUMERY. 

Ess-bouquet. — Coriander  oil  1  drachm,  oil  of  cloves 
7,  nutmeg  oil  3.5,  lavender  oil  10,  sandal-wood  oil  3.5, 
bergamot  oil  30,  rose  oil  and  rose-geranium  oil  each  2, 
neroli  oil  0.6. 

Lavender  odor. — Lavender  oil  50  drachms,  bergamot 
oil  25,  cinnamon  oil  0.3,  geranium  oil  2.5,  neroli  oil  0.5. 

Eau,  de  Cologne. — Bergamot  oil  and  lime  oil  each  30 
drachms,  lemon  oil  and  neroli  oil  each  15,  rosemary  oil 
5,  rose  geranium  oil  0.6. 

SMELLING  SALTS.  Smelling  salts  are  ammoniacal 
perfumes  in  a  solid  form,  Preston  salt  (sel  de  Preston) 
being  one  of  the  most  popular.  It  is  generally  prepared 
by  intimately  rubbing  together  in  a  porcelain  mortar 
equal  parts  of  sal  ammoniac  or  ammonium  carbonate 
and  lime  freshly  slaked  to  a  powder,  and  perfuming  the 
mixture,  according  to  the  quality  of  volatile  salts  desired, 
with  a  finer  or  inferior  perfume. 

William  W.  Bartlett  prepares  Preston  salt  without 
lime  according  to  the  following  receipt :  Powdered  chlo- 
ride of  ammonium  1 J  ozs.,  powdered  carbonate  of  potas- 
sium 1  oz.  6  drachms,  coarsely  powdered  carbonate  of 
ammonium  3  drachms,  oils  of  clove  and  bergamot  each 
10  drops. 

Mr.  Bartlett  also  gives  a  formula  fora  " menthol  pun- 
gent" which  is  quite  agreeable  to  the  smell  and  a  novelty 
for  headache  and  faintness.  It  is  prepared  by  leaving 
out  the  essential  oils  in  the  above  formula  and  substi- 
tuting in  their  place  1  drachm  of  menthol. 

White  smelling  salt  consists  essentially  of  perfumed 
carbonate  of  ammonia.  There  are  several  receipts  for 
it,  one  frequently  used  being  as  follows  :  Mix  in  a  capa- 
cious porcelain  mortar  2.2  Ibs.  of  ammonium  carbonate 


DRY    PERFUMES.  261 

with  1.1  lb.  of  ammonia,  cover  the  mortar  and  let  it 
stand  quietly.  In  the  course  of  a  few  days  the  contents 
have  been  converted  into  normal  carbonate  of  ammonia. 
The  latter  is  reduced  to  a  coarse  powder  and  per- 
fumed with  bergamot  oil  0.56  drachm,  lavender  oil  0.9, 
nutmeg  oil,  clove  oil,  and  rose  oil  each  0.28,  cinnamon 
oil  2.82. 

The  incorporation  of  the  volatile  oils  is  effected  by 
first  triturating  about  ^  of  the  salt  with  the  volatile 
oils  and  then  gradually  incorporating  with  this  perfumed 
mass  the  rest  of  the  salt,  a  uniform  distribution  of  the 
odor  being  in  this  manner  effected. 


262  MANUFACTURE    OF    PERFUMERY. 


CHAPTER  X. 

FUMIGATING   ESSENCES,  PASTILLES,  POWDERS,  ETC. 

,  FUMIGATING  agents  are  divided  into  liquid  and  dry, 
the  first  being  alcoholic  solutions,  and  perhaps  most 
popular.  They  consist  of  extractions  from  resins,  bal- 
sams, leaves,  flowers,  seeds,  wood,  and  roots,  compounded 
with  volatile  oils,  alcohol,  and  alcoholic  extracts  from 
French  flower  pomades. 

It  should  be  the  aim -of  the  perfumer  to  compound 
these  substances  so  that  a  harmonious  blending  together 
of  all  the  ingredients  is  attained.  The  object  of  fumi- 
gating living  rooms,  sleeping  rooms,  and  sick  chambers 
is  not  only  to  make  abode  in  these  rooms  more  agreeable 
by  an  attempt  to  cover  the  disagreeable  odors,  but  chiefly 
to  render  them  innoxious,  thus  combining  the  useful  with 
the  agreeable. 

For  several  years  past  a  strong  prejudice  against  fumi- 
gating has  been  developed.  Such  prejudice  rnay  be  justi- 
fied in  certain  cases,  especially  when  the  fumigating  agents 
contain  musk  or  are  otherwise  incorrectly  composed.  An 
addition  of  musk,  even  in  very  small  quantities,  causes 
nervous  persons  to  dislike  fumigating  agents  containing 
it,  because  it  is  a  well-known  fact  that  musk  excites  the 
nerves  in  a  high  degree,  and  hence  in  most  cases  fumigat- 
ing with  agents  containing  it  does  more  harm  than  good. 

The  mode  of  fumigating  has  also  to  be  taken  into  con- 


FUMIGATING   ESSENCES,   PASTILLES,    ETC.         263 

sideration.  It  is,  for  instance,  entirely  incorrect  to  place 
the  fumigating  agent  upon  very  hot  iron,  a  hojb  stove- 
pipe, or  glowing  coals,  because  in  evaporating  upon  hot 
iron,  it  leaves  behind  an  empyreumatic,  pungent  odor 
excitatory  to  cough,  while  the  actual  aroma  is  lost  and 
thus  the  object  of  fumigating  is  frustrated. 

To  derive  the  best  effects  from  the  fumigating  agent 
it  should  be  placed  upon  a  moderately  warm  article  so 
that  it  will  slowly  evaporate.  Liquid  fumigating  agents 
may  also  be  mixed  in  a  porcelain  vessel  with  distilled 
water.  By  placing  the  vessel  upon  a  warm  stove,  evapo- 
ration proceeds  at  a  still  slower  rate,  because  the  fumigat- 
ing agent  can  only  evaporate  together  with  the  water, 
whereby  its  aroma  becomes  still  more  agreeable.  The 
use  of  rose  water  or  orange  water  instead  of  distilled 
water  considerably  enhances  the  success  of  fumigating. 

The  so-called  atomizers  may  here  be  mentioned.  They 
are  very  practicable  for  cold  fumigating,  i.  e.,  for  the  dis- 
tribution of  pine  odor,  Cologne  water,  etc.  On  account 
of  their  content  of  musk  the  atomization  of  Extraits 
d'Odeurs  in  the  presence  of  nervous  people  cannot  be 
recommended. 

The  dry  fumigating  agents,  such  as  powders,  pastilles, 
paper,  and  lacquer,  are  less  popular  than  the  fluid,- it 
being  necessary  for  the  purpose  of  fumigating  to  place 
them  upon  hot  articles,  heat  them,  or  burn  them.  These 
manipulations  develop  more  or  less  smoke,  which  fre- 
quently exerts  a  disagreeable  effect  upon  the  respiratory 
organs.  The  most  injurious  of  these  methods  of  hot 
fumigation  is  that  by  means  of  hot  coals,  whereby  the 
aroma  of  the  fumigating  agent  is  largely  destroyed,  and 
the  very  injurious  gas  emanating  from  the  coals  is 


264  MANUFACTURE   OF    PERFUMERY. 

inhaled.  A  heated  piece  of  sheet-iron  is,  however,  very 
suitable  for  fumigation  by  means  of  powder  or  lacquer. 
Scatter  the  powder  upon  it  or  coat  it  with  the  lacquer. 

Several  approved  receipts  for  liquid  and  dry  fumi- 
gating agents  are  here  given. 

FUMIGATING  ESSENCES  AND  VINEGARS.  Great  care 
should  be  exercised  in  making  the  following  receipts  for 
liquid  fumigating  agents.  After  mixing,  shake  thor- 
oughly, and  let  the  product  stand  quietly  for  at  least 
several  weeks,  the  aroma  of  all  alcoholic  perfumes  being- 
improved  by  storing  for  some  time.  It  need  scarcely 
be  said  that  alcohol  of  the  finest  quality  is  to  be  used, 
since,  if  it  contains  fusel  oil,  the  attainment  of  a  fine 
product  is  absolutely  impossible.  To  decrease  the  cost 
of  manufacture,  it  might  be  permissible  to  increase  the 
proportion  of  alcohol,  but  an  inferior  quality  of  it  should, 
under  no  conditions,  be  employed. 

Rose-flower  fumigating  essence. — Alcohol,  extract  No. 
1,  from  French -rose  pomade  and  benzoin  tincture  each 
1  quart,  musk-root  tincture  No.  1,  8f  ozs.,  Turkish 
rose  oil  and  clove  oil  each  2|  drachms,  French  rose- 
geranium  oil  5J  drachms.  Dissolve  the  rose  oil  in  the 
other  volatile  oils. 

Flower  fumigating  essence,  heliotrope. — Alcohol  and 
extract  No.  1  from  French  heliotrope  pomade  each  1 
quart,  vanilla  tincture  No.  1  and  orris-root  tincture 
each  1  pint,  tinctures  of  benzoin  and  tolu  balsam  each 
\  pint,  musk-root  tincture  No.  1,  7  ozs.,  cumarin  tinc- 
ture 5J  ozs.,  Portugal  oil  1  oz.,  French  rose-geranium 
oil  11  \  drachms,  clove  oil  5J  drachms,  best  lavender  oil 
1 1 J  drachms. 


FUMIGATING   ESSENCES,    PASTILLES,    ETC.         265 

Violet  flower  fumigating  essence. — Alcohol  1  quart, 
extracts  No.  1  from  French-violet  pomade  and  cassie 
pomade  each  1  pint,  orris-root  tincture  No.  1,  1  quart, 
benzoin  tincture  1  pint,  storax  tincture  J-  pint,  abel- 
mosk tincture  No.  1  4J  ozs.,  ambergris  tincture  11 J- 
drachms,  orris-root  oil  2f  drachms,  bergamot  oil  11 J 
drachms,  best  lavender  oil  5J  drachms,  myrrh  oil  1J 
drachms,  basil  oil  2f  drachms. 

Oriental-flower  fumigating  essence. — Alcohol  1  quart, 
extract  from  French-rose  pomade  17  J  ozs.,  extracts 
from  French-jasmine  pomade,  jonquille  pomade,  helio- 
trope pomade  and  cassie  pomades  each  7  ozs.,  vanilla 
tincture  7  ozs.,  tinctures  of  orris  root,  tonka  beans,  and 
musk  root  each  3J  ozs.,  benzoin  tincture  8J  ozs.,  tolu- 
balsam  tincture  4J  ozs.,  storax  tincture  5J  ozs.,  oliba- 
num  tincture  3J  ozs.,  ambergris  tincture  and  bergamot 
oil  each  1}  ozs.,  Ceylon  cinnamon  oil  5J  drachms,  best 
lavender  oil  11  ozs.,  Turkish  rose  oil  and  clove  oil  each 
5J  drachms,  neroli  oil  2J  drachms,  Peru  balsam  3}  ozs. 

Pine  odor  (for  atomizing)  No.  1. — Alcohol  2  quarts, 
pine  oil  (from  Pinus  picea)  7  ozs.,  bergamot  oil  5J 
drachms. 

Pine  odw  (for  atomizing)  No.  2. — Alcohol  2  quarts, 
dwarf-pine  oil  (from  Plnus  pumilio)  5J  ozs.,  oil  of 
lemons  5J  drachms. 

Juniper  odor. — Alcohol  2  quarts,  extra  fine  juniper 
berry  oil  3J  ozs.,  best  lavender  oil  5J  drachms,  juniper 
tincture  8J  ozs. 

Pine  odor  or  juniper  odor  may  also  be  mixed  in  a 
vessel  with  water,  and  thus  used  for  fumigating. 

Fumigating  balsam. — Alcohol  3  quarts,  orris-root  tine- 


266  MANUFACTURE   OF   PERFUMERY. 

ture  1  quart,  tinctures  of  benzoin,  tolu  balsam,  and  storax 
each  17  J  ozs.,  olibanum  tincture  8f  ozs.,  tinctures  of 
abelmosk  and  musk-root  each  3J  ozs.,  vanilla  tincture 
If  ozs.,  Peru  balsam  4J  ozs.,  bergamot  oil  If  ozs.,  lemon 
oil  14  drachms,  African  rose  geranium  oil  11 J-  drachms, 
clove  oil  and  cassia  oil  each  14  drachms,  petit-grain  oil 
11 J  drachms,  fine  lavender  oil  If  ozs. 

Fumigating  water. — Alcohol  10  quarts,  orris-root  tinc- 
ture No.  2,  tinctures  of  storax,  benzoin,  and  tolu  balsam 
each  1  quart,  abelmosk  tincture  No.  2,  7  ozs.,  olibanum 
tincture  8f  ozs.,  Peru  balsam  and  lavender  oil  each 
3J  ozs.,  cassia  oil  and  bergamot  oil  each  1  oz.,  thyme 
oil  \  oz.,  clove  oil  and  palma-rosa  oil  each  1  oz. 

Fumigating  vinegar. — Alcohol  2  quarts,  orris-root  tinc- 
ture 1  quart,  benzoin  tincture  1  pint,  tinctures  of  tolu 
balsam  and  storax  each  J  pint,  musk-root  tincture 
4J  ozs.,  tinctures  of  vitivert  and  vanilla  each  3J  ozs., 
Peru  balsam  If  ozs.,  lavender  oil  and  clove  oil  each 
8J  drachms,  Ceylon  cinnamon  oil  and  African  rose- 
geranium  oil  each  5J  drachms,  acetic  acid  4J  ozs. 

FUMIGATING  POWDERS.  The  lavender  flowers,  mari- 
gold flowers  (Calendula  officinalis),  rose  leaves,  etc.,  used 
in  the  preparation  of  fumigating  powders  are  not  pul- 
verized, but  so  far  comminuted  with  a  suitable  instru- 
ment as  to  form  a  distinctly  colored  mixture.  To  dissolve 
the  volatile  oils,  they  are  thoroughly  mixed  with  the  alco- 
holic extracts  mentioned  in  the  receipts.  The  perfume 
thus  obtained  is  finally  incorporated  with  the  powders 
by  rubbing  together  with  the  hands.  To  prevent  loss 
of  perfume,  it  is  mixed  with  the  powders  in  a  porcelain 
or  enamelled  vessel. 

Ordinary  fumigating  powder. — Lavender  flowers,  mari- 


FUMIGATING   ESSENCES,    PASTILLES,    ETC.         267 

gold  flowers,  corn  flowers,  rose  leaves,  rasped  orris  root 
each  2  Ibs.,  cloves  and  cinnamon  each  3J  ozs.,  rasped 
sanders  wood  17  J  ozs.,  rasped  cedar  wood  8f  ozs.,  fumi- 
gating balsam  17 J  ozs.,  bergamot  oil  and  African  rose- 
geranium  oil  each  If  ozs.,  lavender  oil  11J  drachms. 

Besides  the  above-mentioned  dry  constituents,  the  resi- 
dues from  odoriferous  substances,  such  as  vanilla,  orris 
root,  vitivert  root,  juniper  berries,  etc.,  employed  in  the 
preparation  of  tinctures  may  be  used  for  ordinary  fumi- 
gating powders. 

Rose  fumigating  powder. — Rose  leaves  and  rose  wood 
each  2  Ibs.,  lavender  flowers  and  sanders  wood  each 

1  lb.,  corn  flowers  \  lb.,  tinctures  of  musk  root  and 
abelmosk  each  If  ozs.,  African  rose-geranium  oil  1  oz., 
Turkish  rose  oil  2f  drachms,  bergamot  oil  8.J  drachms, 
clove  oil  2f  drachms,  nutmeg  oil  1J  drachms,  extract 
from  French  rose  pomade  3J  ozs. 

Violet  fumigating  powder. — Rasped  orris  root  4  Ibs., 
lavender  flowers  and  rasped  sanders  wood  each  1  lb., 
orris-root  tincture,  abelmosk  tincture,  and  bergamot  oil 
each  If  ozs.,  orris-root  oil,  basil  oil,  and  Ceylon-cinna- 
mon oil  each  2f  drachms,  extract  from  French  cassie 
pomade  If  ozs. 

Orange  fumigating  powder. — Orange  peels  4  Ibs., 
orange  flowers  and  marigold  flowers  each  1  lb.,  musk-root 
tincture  and  Portugal  oil  each  If  ozs.,  petit-grain  oil  5J 
drachms,  bergamot  oil  11  drachms,  extract  from  French 
orange  flower  pomade  3J  ozs. 

New-mown  hay  fumigating  powder. — Lavender  flowers 

2  Ibs.,  rose-leaves,  rasped  sanders  wood,  and  rasped  orris 
root  each  1  lb.,  powdered  benzoin,  Roman  camomile, 
curled  mint  and  balm  each  J  lb.,  exhausted  tonka  beans 


268  MANUFACTURE   OF   PERFUMERY. 

1  lb.,  patchouli  leaves  and  bergamot  oil  each  11 J 
drachms,  African  rose-geranium  oil  8J  drachms,  tonka- 
bean  extract  and  abelmosk  tincture  each  If  ozs.,  extract 
from  French  reseda  pomade  3J  ozs. 

FUMIGATING  PAPER.  Bring  into  a  capacious  shal- 
low dish  a  quantity  of  fumigating  balsam  and  repeatedly 
draw  sheets  of  card-board  through  it,  allowing  the  sheets 
to  thoroughly  drain  off  and  dry  after  each  drawing 
through.  After  repeating  the  operation  about  four 
times,  the  sheets  will  be  sufficiently  perfumed  and  are 
then  coated  by  means  of  a  fine  brush  with  a  solution  of 
gum-arabic  in  rose  water.  This  gives  to  the  sheets  a 
dull  lustre,  while  the  thin  layer  of  gum-arabic  also  pre- 
vents the  volatilization  of  the  aroma.  The  sheets  thus 
perfumed  are  cut  up  into  pieces  the  size  of  a  playing 
card,  and  six  to  twelve  such  pieces  put  up  in  an  envelope. 
For  use  the  paper  is  not  ignited,  but  only  heated.  With 
one  such  piece  a  room  can  be  several  times  perfumed. 
It  may  be  remarked  that  before  perfuming,  the  name  of 
the  firm,  directions  for  use,  etc.,  are  generally  printed 
upon  the  card-board. 

FUMIGATING  PASTILLES.  Some  perfumers  make 
more  or  less  a  specialty  of  the  manufacture  of  fumigating 
pastilles.  They  are  generally  of  a  red  or  black  color, 
different  perfumes,  names  and  qualities. 

To  prepare  them,  the  finely  pulverized  substances  are 
passed  through  a  sieve  and  mixed  in  a  capacious  dish 
with  the  volatile  oils,  tinctures,  etc.  The  mixture  of 
powder  and  perfume  is  then  made  into  a  mass  with  a 
mucilage  of  gum  tragacanth,  which  is  thoroughly 
kneaded  to  make  it  homogeneous. 

The  saltpetre  given  in  the  receipts  is  dissolved  by 


FUMIGATING    ESSENCES,   PASTILLES,    ETC.         269 

itself  in  distilled  water  and  last  of  all  added  to  the  mass. 
Its  object  is  to  keep  the  pastilles  burning  after  ignition. 

As  regards  the  mucilage  of  gum-tragacanth,  it  may  be 
said  that  it  readily  spoils,  especially  in  summer.  When 
it  begins  to  get  watery  it  is  already  useless  and  soon  ac- 
quires a  bad  odor  ;  by  decomposition  it  loses  its  cementing 
power.  Hence  only  a  sufficient  quantity  for  immediate 
use  should  be  made  at  one  time. 

The  moulding  of  the  pastilles  is  very  simple.  A  num- 
ber of  tin  cones  into  which  the  mass  is  pressed  are  used 
for  the  purpose.  After  standing  for  a  short  time  the 
pastilles  are  taken  from  the  moulds  and  allowed  to  dry. 

Ordinary  red  fumigating  pastilles. — Pulverized  san- 
ders  wood  and  pulverized  Sumatra  benzoin  each  2  Ibs., 
finely  pulverized  sandarac  and  olibanum  each  1  lb., 
saltpetre  4J  ozs.  dissolved  in  distilled  water ;  clove  oil 
5J  drachms,  palma-rosa  oil  11  drachms,  lavender  oil 
14  drachms.  Mucilage  of  gum-tragacanth  as  much  as 
required. 

Ordinary  black  fumigating  pastilles. — Charcoal  2 
Ibs.,  finely  pulverized  Sumatra  benzoin  2  Ibs.,  finely 
pulverized  olibanum  1  lb.,  saltpetre  4J  ozs.,  dissolved 
in  distilled  water ;  lavender  oil,  cassia  oil,  and  citronella 
oil  each  11  \  drachms.  Mucilage  of  gum-tragacanth  as 
much  as  required. 

Musk  fumigating  pastilles. — Pulverized  genuine  linden 
charcoal  2  Ibs.,  pulverized  musk  root  and  orris  root 
each  1  lb.,  pulverized  sanders  wood,  Siam  benzoin,  and 
abelmosk  each  J  lb.,  saltpetre  4J  ozs.,  dissolved  in  dis- 
tilled water;  Tonkin  musk  1J  drachms,  triturated  in 
distilled  water ;  African-rose  geranium  oil,  Portugal 


270  MANUFACTURE   OF   PERFUMERY. 

and  cedar  oil  each  5J  drachms.  Mucilage  of  gum- 
tragacanth  as  much  as  required. 

Rose  fumigating  pastilles. — Pulverized  sanders  wood 
2  Ibs.,  powdered  sandarac  and  Siam  benzoin  each  1  lb., 
carmine,  dissolved  in  rose  water,  1  \  drachms ;  saltpetre 
3J  ozs.,  bergamot  oil  5J  drachms,  clove  oil,  Turkish 
rose  oil,  and  French  rose-geranium  oil  each  2.75 
drachms.  Gum-tragacanth  dissolved  in  rose  water  as 
much  as  required. 

Violet  fumigating  pastilles. — Powdered  orris  root  2 
Ibs.,  pulverized  sanders  wood  1  lb.,  pulverized  Siam 
benzoin  and  opopanax  each  J  lb.,  saltpetre  3J  ozs., 
dissolved  in  distilled  water ;  tola-balsam  tincture  3J 
ozs.,  orris-root  oil  and  bergamot  oil  each  5J  drachms, 
myrrh  oil  2|  drachms.  Mucilage  of  gum-tragacanth 
as  much  as  required. 

Millefleurs  fumigating  pastilles. — Pulverized  linden 
charcoal  2  Ibs.,  pulverized  sanders  wood,  Siam  benzoin, 
and  orris  root  each  1  lb.,  pulverized  olibanum  J-  lb.  ; 
saltpetre  4J  ozs.,  dissolved  in  distilled  water ;  bergamot 
oil  and  African  rose-geranium  oil  each  14  drachms, 
Ceylon  cinnamon  oil,  Paraguay  petit-grain  oil,  and 
juniper-berry  oil  each  5J  drachms,  Peru  balsam  1} 
ozs.,  civet  tincture  5J  drachms,  musk-root  tincture  3J 
ozs.  Mucilage  of  gum-tragacanth  as  much  as  re- 
quired. 

Fumigating  lacquer.  —  Fumigating  lacquer  consists 
chiefly  of  resins,  to  which  sufficient  liquid  storax  is 
added  to  render  the  mass  plastic,  so  that  sticks  of  any 
desired  length  and  thickness  can  be  formed  therefrom. 

The  resins  and  licorice  mentioned  in  the  receipt  given 
below  are  gradually  and  very  carefully  melted  in  an 


FUMIGATING    ESSENCES,    PASTILLES,    ETC.         271 

iron  pan  over  a  gas  or  petroleum  flame.  To  prevent 
the  resins  from  scorching,  the  bottom  of  the  pan  must 
constantly  be  kept  free  with  a  small  iron  spatula. 
When  the  mass  is  perfectly  fluid  the  Frankfort  black  is 
added,  and  the  whole  thoroughly  worked  until  no  more 
lumps  of  Frankfort  black  are  present.  The  pan  is  then 
taken  from  the  fire,  and,  after  allowing  the  mass  to 
cool  somewhat,  it  is  perfumed  with  the  thoroughly 
mixed  perfume. 

A  lithographic  stone,  not  too  small,  is  used  for  giving 
the  fumigating  lacquer  a  round  form.  The  stone  is 
rubbed  with  a  rag  moistened  with  a  very  small  quantity 
of  olive  oil.  A  small  portion  of  the  still  very  warm 
mass  is  then  poured  upon  the  stone  and  rolled  with  the 
hands,  which  should  also  be  moistened  with  a  little  olive 
oil,  into  sticks  of  desired  thickness.  The  sticks  are  cut 
into  the  desired  lengths  while  the  lacquer  is  still  warm, 
and  the  operation  is  thus  continued  until  the'entire  mass 
is  worked  up.  The  mass  in  the  pan  must,  of  course,  be 
constantly  kept  liquid. 

Siam  benzoin,  olibanum,  and  myrrh  each  8f  ozs., 
storax  as  free  from  water  as  possible  3J  ozs.,  licorice 
17  J  ozs.,  Peru  balsam  3J  ozs.,  Frankfort  black  5J  ozs., 
bergamot  oil  14  drachms,  African  rose-geranium  oil, 
cassia  oil,  juniper-berry  oil,  and  eucalyptus  oil  each 
11 J  drachms. 


272  MANUFACTURE   OF   PERFUMERY. 


CHAPTER  XI. 


I  FOR  cleansing  and  preserving  the  teeth  and  gums, 
soaps,  powders,  and  tinctures  are  used,  and  for  removing 
foul  breath,  mouth-waters. 

rreat  care  is  required  in  compounding  dentifrices 
and  mouth-waters,  and  special  attention  must  be  paid 
to  the  correct  selection  of  the  material.  jThe  substances 
used  must  be  chemically  pure,  and  no  Caustic  or  sharp 
or  grating  materials,  such  as  pumice,  sand,  ossa  sepice, 
etc.,  should  be  employed,  they  destroying  the  enamel  of 
the  teeth. 

The  coloring  substances  used  to  give  the  dentifrices 
and  mouth-waters  a  pleasing  appearance  should  under 
no  condition  be  injurious  or  poisonous,  such  as,  for  in- 
stance, brilliant  rosa,  cinnabar,  aniline,  chrome  yellow, 
r  picric  acid,  etc.  |  The  perfumes  have  alstrto  be  carefully 
I  selected,  and  all  repugnant  volatile  oils  and  tinctures, 
\  such  as  bitter-almond  oil,  sandal -wood  oil,  musk  tinc- 
I  ture,   etc.,  should   be   avoided.  ]    On   the   other   hand, 
/  peppermint  oil  forms  the  principal  constituent  of  the 
perfume   for  most   dentifrices  and   mouth-waters,   this 
preference  being  not  only  due  to  its  agreeable  odor,  but 
chiefly  to  its  pleasant,  refreshing,  and  stimulating  action 
upon  our  organs. 

In   accordance   with    recent    medical    directions   and 


DENTIFRICES,    MOUTH-WATERS,    ETC.  273 

opinions  soap  is  again  employed,  and  justly  so,  for  the 
better  cleansing  of  the  teeth,  whilst  formerly  it  was 
generally  considered  injurious.  However,  though  soap 
is  innocuous  to  the  teeth,  it  should  be  used  in  very 
limited  quantities,  since  its  introduction  into  the  mouth 
is  repugnant  to  many  persons,  producing  in  many  cases 
vomiting.  The  quality  of  the  soap  must  also  be  taken 
into  consideration,  and  only  the  best  neutral  soap  in  the 
form  of  a  powder,  such  as  is  used  for  fine  milled  soaps, 
should  be  employed. 

The  alcohol  used  for  the  tooth  and  mouth-waters — 
more  correctly  tinctures — should  be  perfectly  free  from 
fusel  oil,  and  of  95  to  96  per  cent,  strength.  The  best 
qualities  of  volatile  oils  should  be  taken,  and  the  tinc- 
tures prepared  with  the  greatest  care. 

The  dentifrices  for  preventing  caries,  among  which 
the  thymol  preparations  are  the  most  prominent,  deserve 
special  attention.  The  most  celebrated  physicians  have 
long  since  recognized  thymol  as  an  antiseptic,  it  being 
much  used  in  hospitals,  and  is  frequently  preferred  to 
carbolic  acid.  For  this  reason  thymol  preparations  should 
be  used  for  preserving  the  teeth.  They  render  good  ser- 
vice, especially  in  the  case  of  hollow  teeth,  as  they  re- 
move the  foul  odor  and  protect  the  sound  teeth  from 
becoming  hollow.  For  cleansing  artificial  teeth  thymol 
tooth-water  can  be  especially  recommended.  Great  care 
should,  therefore,  be  exercised  in  the  preparation  of  these 
thymol  dentifrices.  On  the  other  hand,  according  to 
medical  opinions,  dentifrices  containing  salicylic  acid 
cannot  be  recommended,  the  acid,  it  is  claimed,  being 
very  injurious  to  the  enamel  of  the  teeth. 

Glycerin,  which  occurs  in  several  receipts  for  denti- 

18 


274  MANUFACTURE   OF   PERFUMERY. 

frices  and  mouth-waters,  fulfills  a  double  object ;  on  the 
one  hand,  its  action  upon  the  teeth  and  mouth  is  bene- 
ficial, and,  on  the  other,  it  covers  the  naturally  bitter 
taste  of  many  substances  contained  in  the  preparations, 
and  thus  makes  them  more  agreeable  to  use. 

The  receipts  for  dentifrices  and  mouth-waters  here 
given  have  been  thoroughly  tested,  and  can  be  highly 
recommended. 

Tooth  and  mouth  waters.  Thymol  tooth-water. — Alcohol 
of  best  quality  5  quarts,  chemically  pure  glycerin  of 
28°  B.  17  J  ozs.,  crystallized  thymol  1  oz.,  white 
thyme  oil  and  best  peppermint  oil  each  1J  ozs.,  tinc- 
tures of  arnica  and  guaiacum  each  If  ozs.,  cochineal 
tincture,  for  coloring,  2f  to  3J  ozs. 

Bring  all  the  ingredients  into  a  glass  balloon,  shake 
thoroughly,  and  protect  the  liquid  from  sun-light. 

The  cochineal  tincture  is  prepared  from  14  ozs.  of 
cochineal  and  1  quart  of  alcohol  of  best  quality,  the 
arnica  tincture  from  2  Ibs.  of  arnica  root  and  2J  quarts 
of  alcohol  of  best  quality,  and  the  guaiacum  tincture 
from  5J  ozs.  of  guaiacum-wood  and  1  quart  of  alcohol 
of  best  quality. 

Eau  dentifrice  Botot. — Alcohol  of  best  quality  5  quarts, 
chemically  pure  glycerin  of  28°  B.  17f  ozs.,  peppermint 
oil  2  ozs.,  clove  oil  11  drachms,  anise-seed  oil  5  drachms, 
ratany  tincture  and  vanilla  tincture  each  5J  ozs.,  Peru- 
vian bark  tincture  If  ozs.,  sanders-wood  tincture,  as 
coloring  matter,  3J  ozs.  Proceed  as  above. 

The  sanders-wood  tincture  is  prepared  by  macerating 
5J  ozs.  of  red  sanders  wood  with  1  quart  of  alcohol. 

Eau  dentifrice  Orientate. — Alcohol  of  best  quality  5 
quarts,  peppermint  oil  and  rose-geranium  oil  each  1 J  ozs., 


DENTIFRICES,    MOUTH-WATERS,    ETC.  275 

clove  oil  11 J  drachms,  extrait  rose  and  ratany  tincture 
each  3J  ozs.,  vanilla  tincture  If  ozs.  Proceed  as  above 
and  color  rose  color  with  corallin  tincture. 

The  ratany  tincture  is  prepared  from  17  J  ozs.  of  ratany 
root  and  1  quart  alcohol,  and  the  corallin  tincture  from 
17  J  ozs.  of  corallin  and  1  quart  alcohol. 

Violet  mouth-water. — Tincture  of  benzoin  7  parts,  tinc- 
ture of  ratany  30,  tincture  of  myrrh  60,  rose  water  250, 
tincture  of  orris  root  500,  alcohol  250. 

Antiseptic  gargle. — The  following  solution  is  recom- 
mended for  sterilizing  the  mouth  after  the  teeth  have 
been  cleansed  with  a  tooth-brush  and  soap :  Thymol  3J 
grains,  benzoic  acid  45,  tincture  of  eucalyptus  180,  water 
1J  pints. 

Odontine. — Exhaust  3  ozs.  of  pulverized  myrrh  with 
a  mixture  of  25  ozs.  of  alcohol  and  8  ozs.  of  water. 
Then  dissolve  1J  ozs.  of  Castile  soap  shavings  in  a  mix- 
ture of  25  ozs.  of  alcohol  and  8  ozs.  of  water,  and 
color  wine-red  with  alkannin.  Then  add  lemon  oil  30 
drops,  peppermint  oil  30  drops,  wintergreen  oil  10 
dropsy  star-anise  oil  30  drops,  and  finally  4  ozs.  of 
glycerin.  After  allowing  the  whole  to  stand  in  a  cool 
place  for  one  or  two  weeks,  filter,  mix  the  filtrate  with 
10  drachms  of  acetic  ether,  and  fill  in  bottles. 

Sozodont. — White  Castile  soap  J  oz.,  oil  of  peppermint 
5  drops,  oil  of  wintergreen  12  drops,  glycerin  J  oz., 
water  1  oz.,  alcohol  2  ozs.,  cochineal  tincture  sufficient 
to  color. 

Eau  de  Botot  (improved). — Cloves,  star-anise,  and  soap 
bark,  each  2J  drachms,  cochineal  1 J  drachms.  Pulverize 
and  percolate  with  the  following  mixture :  Alcohol  20 
ozs.,  rose  water  4  ozs.  To  the  percolate  add  :  Cream  of 
tartar  45  grains,  oil  of  peppermint  1J  drachms.  Filter. 


276  MANUFACTURE   O'F   PERFUMERY. 

Quinine  tooth-water. — Alcohol  of  best  quality  5  quarts, 
peppermint  oil  1  oz.,  clove  oil  |  oz.,  Ceylon  cinnamon 
oil  2f  drachms,  Peruvian  bark-tincture  8{  ozs.,  guaia- 
cum-tincture  3J  ozs.,  myrrh  tincture  1.75  ozs.,  glycerine 
of  28°  B.  17J  ozs.  Proceed  as  above. 

The  Peruvian  bark -tincture  is  prepared  by  macerating 
8f  ozs.  of  Peruvian  bark  in  1  quart  of  alcohol  of  best 
quality. 

Dr.  Stahl's  tooth-tincture. — Alcohol  of  best  quality  5 
quarts,  peppermint  oil  If  ozs.,  clove  oil  5J  drachms, 
French  rose-geranium  oil  8J  drachms,  vanilla-tincture 
5J  ozs.,  guaiacum  tincture  3J  ozs.,  benzoin  tincture  8f 
ozs.,  henna- tincture,  as  coloring  matter,  8f  ozs. 

Bring  all  the  ingredients  into  a  glass  bottle,  shake 
thoroughly  and  protect  the  mixture  from  sun-light. 
The  tincture,  when  mixed  with  water,  gives  an  emulsion. 

The  henna-tincture  is  obtained  by  macerating  17 J 
ozs.  of  henna-root  in  4  quarts  of  alcohol. 

E&prit  de  menthe. — Alcohol  of  best  quality  5  quarts, 
peppermint  oil  4J  ozs. 

Arnica  tooth-tincture. — Alcohol  of  best  quality  and 
arnica-tincture  each  1  quart,  Peruvian  bark-tincture  1 
pint,  glycerin  of  28°  B.  5J  ozs.,  cochineal  tincture,  as  col- 
oring matter,  If  ozs. 

Myrrh  tooth-tincture. — Alcohol  of  best  quality  1 
quart,  myrrh  tincture  2  quarts,  guaiacum  tincture 
8f  ozs. 

A  few  remarks  may  here  be  made  regarding  the  use 
of  tooth  tinctures.  The  tinctures  should  not  be  used 
undiluted,  they  being  apt  to  make  tender  gums  sore, 
cause  pain,  and  may  even  produce  inflammation.  It  is 
best  to  dilute  the  tinctures  somewhat  with  water  whereby 


DENTIFRICES,    MOUTH- WATERS,    ETC.  277 

they  become  milder  and  more  agreeable  to  the  gums. 
An  excellent  article  for  rinsing  out  the  mouth  is  obtained 
by  pouring  a  teaspoon ful  of  the  tincture  into  a  tumbler 
of  water. 

TOOTH-PASTES  AND  TOOTH-POWDERS.  Tooth-paste 
or  odontine,  No.  1. — Carbonate  of  magnesium  6  Ibs., 
sugar  of  milk  2  Ibs.,  precipitated  carbonate  of  calcium 
4  Ibs.,  alizarin,  to  color,  1}  ozs.,  best  soap-powder  7 
ozs.,  powdered  gum-arabic  5J  ozs.,  sugar  17  J  ozs.  dis- 
solved in  distilled  water  2J  quarts,  chemically  pure 
glycerin  of  28°  B.  17  J  ozs.,  peppermint  oil  8|  ozs.,  clove 
oil  8J  drachms. 

Pass  the  magnesia,  sugar  of  milk,  carbonate  of  cal- 
cium, alizarin,  soap-powder  and  gum-arabic  through  a 
fine  sieve  and  mix  intimately ;  dissolve  the  sugar  in  the 
distilled  water  and  add  the  glycerin  to  the  solution. 
Bring  the  sifted  powders  into  a  mortar  or  other  con- 
venient vessel,  gradually  add  the  fluid  and  thoroughly 
mix  with  the  hands.  Then  add  the  perfume,  and  con- 
vert the  whole  into  a  solid  paste  with  a  wooden  pestle. 
Instead  of  mixing  and  working  the  mass  in  a  mortar, 
the  operation  is  much  more  rapidly  performed  by  passing 
the  mixture  through  the  rolls  of  a  soap  mill,  which  must, 
of  course,  be  thoroughly  cleansed  for  the  purpose  by 
washing  with  water. 

Tooth-paste  or  odontine,  No.  2. — Carbonate  of  magne- 
sium and  sugar  of  milk  each  2  Ibs.,  precipitated  carbo- 
nate of  calcium  4  Ibs.,  prepared  chalk  10  Ibs.,  sugar  4 
Ibs.  dissolved  in  water  5  quarts,  best  soap-powder  2  Ibs., 
alizarin,  as  coloring  matter,  7  ozs.,  peppermint  oil  10J 
ozs.,  clove  oil  8J  ozs. 

This  paste  is  prepared  in  the  same  manner  as  No.  1, 


278  MANUFACTURE   OF   PERFUMERY. 

only  the  proportion  of  water  has  to  be  taken  into  con- 
sideration. To  prevent  the  mass  from  becoming  too  soft, 
the  water  should  be  very  gradually  added. 

Thymol  tooth-paste.  —  Carbonate  of  magnesium  4 
Ibs.,  sugar  of  milk  2  Ibs.,  pulverized  gum-arabic  and 
soap  powder  each  3J  ozs.,  carmine  nacarat,  as  coloring 
matter,  2f  drachms,  and  alizarin,  as  coloring  matter,  6f 
drachms,  sugar  10J  ozs.,  dissolved  in  distilled  water  1} 
quarts,  peppermint  oil  1J  ozs.,  white  thyme  oil  2J  ozs., 
crystallized  thymol  1 J  ozs.,  arnica  tincture  7  ozs.  The 
thyme  oil,  peppermint  oil  and  arnica  tincture  are  brought 
into  a  bottle  and  the  thymol  is  dissolved  in  the  mixture. 
By  previously  converting  the  thymol  to  a  coarse  powder 
solution  takes  place  quite  rapidly.  The  further  manipu- 
lation is  the  same  as  given  for  tooth-paste  No.  1. 

Cherry  tooth-paste. — Boil  briskly  1  oz.  potassium 
carbonate  and  1  oz.  of  powdered  cochineal  in  a  pint  of 
water  until  reduced  to  12  or  13  ozs.  When  cold,  add  1 
oz.  cream  of  tartar,  J  oz.  alum,  2  ozs.  glycerin,  and 
water  sufficient  to  make  16  ozs.  of  filtered  solution. 
Then  add  4  ozs.  of  honey  and  set  aside  a  few  days  to  see 
if  fermentation  occurs.  Carefully  mix  the  liquid  with 
2  Ibs.  prepared  chalk,  1  j  ozs.  orris  powder  and  f  ozs. 
cassia  powder. 

Non-fermenting  cherry  tooth-paste. — Fine  powdered 
pumice  stone  2  ozs.,  powdered  orris  root  2  ozs.,  powdered 
myrrh  J  oz.,  honey  4  ozs.,  sufficient  liquid  cochineal  to 
color,  oil  of  cloves  J  drachm,  essence  of  lemon  1J 
drachms,  rose  oil  8  drops.  Mix  well. 

Odontine  paste. — French  chalk  30  drachms,  soap  15, 
sugar  15,  gum-arabic  2,  peppermint  oil  2,  glycerin  8, 
water  8.  Work  into  a  paste. 


DENTIFRICES,    MOUTH-WATERS,    ETC.  279 

Thymol  tooth-powder. — Sugar  of  milk  and  carbonate 
of  magnesium  each  2  Ibs.,  precipitated  carbonate  of 
calcium  1  lb.,  best  soap-powder  7  ozs.,  alizarin,  as  color- 
ing matter,  and  crystallized  thymol,  each  1  oz.,  glycerin 
of  28°  B.  5J  ozs.,  arnica  tincture  7  ozs.,  white  thyme 
oil  1J  ozs.,  peppermint  oil  11 J  drachms. 

Thoroughly  mix — preferably  in  a  capacious  enamelled 
vessel — the  powdered  and  colored  ingredients,  add  the 
thymol  dissolved  in  the  mixture  of  the  volatile  oils, 
arnica  tincture  and  glycerin,  rub  and  uniformly  mix  the 
whole  with  the  hands,  so  that  no  specks  of  coloring  mat- 
ter and  perfume  are  perceptible,  and  then  again  pass 
through  a  fine  sieve. 

Tooth  powder  is  best  kept  in  well  closed  tin  boxes ; 
boxes  of  wood  or  paste-board  are  not  suitable  for  the 
purpose,  the  powder,  when  kept  in  them,  losing  in 
quality. 

The  above  explanations  refer  to  all  the  following  tooth 
powders : — 

Poudre  dentifrice. — Precipitated  carbonate  of  calcium 
2  Ibs.,  carbonate  of  magnesium  1  lb.,  sugar  of  milk  1J 
Ibs.,  fine  soap-powder  5J  ozs.,  alizarin,  as  coloring  matter, 
5J  ozs.,  peppermint  oil  2  ozs.,  clove  oil  5J  drachms, 
Ceylon  cinnamon  oil  2|  drachms,  rose-geranium  oil  5J 
drachms,  vanilla  tincture  1 }  ozs.  Proceed  as  given  for 
thymol  tooth-powder. 

Violet  tooth-powder. — Orris-root  powder  3  Ibs.,  car- 
bonate of  magnesium  1  lb.,  sugar  of  milk  1 J  Ibs.,  best 
soap-powder  5J  ozs.,  Portugal  oil  and  peppermint  oil 
each  1  oz.,  ratany  tincture  3J  ozs.  Proceed  as  given 
for  thymol  tooth-powder. 


280  MANUFACTURE   OF   PERFUMERY. 

Dr.  Hufeland's  tooth-powde-. —  Pulverized  sanders 
wood,  Peruvian  bark,  and  precipitated  carbonate  of 
calcium  each  2  Ibs.,  best  soap-powder  7  ozs.,  bergamot 
oil  and  Portugal  oil  each  11  drachms,  clove  oil  and 
cassia  oil  each  14  drachms,  myrrh  tincture  If  ozs. 
Proceed  as  given  for  thymol  tooth-powder. 

White  tooth-powder. — Carbonate  of  magnesium,  pre- 
cipitated carbonate  of  calcium,  and  prepared  chalk  each 

1  lb.,  soap-powder  3J  ozs.,  peppermint  oil  1  oz.,  clove 
oil  5J  drachms.     Proceed  as  given  for  thymol  tooth- 
powder. 

Black  tooth-powder. — Finely  pulverized  linden  char- 
coal 2  Ibs.,  precipitated  carbonate  of  calcium  1  lb.,  best 
soap-powder  3J  ozs.,  peppermint  oil  If  ozs.,  clove  oil 
8J  drachms,  guaiacum  tincture  3J  ozs.  Proceed  as 
given  for  thymol  tooth-powder. 

Poudre  de  corail. — Carbonate  of  magnesium  1  lb., 
sugar  of  milk  7  ozs.,  prepared  chalk  1  lb.,  best  soap- 
powder  7  ozs.,  alizarin  3J  ozs.,  peppermint  oil  If  ozs., 
clove  oil  5J  drachms,  cassia  oil  2f  drachms.  Proceed 
as  given  for  thymol  tooth-powder. 

Camphor  tooth-powder. — Prepared  chalk  and  precipi- 
tated carbonate  of  calcium  each  1  lb.,  best  soap-powder 
2J  ozs.,  peppermint  oil  5J  drachms,  camphor  1  oz.  dis- 
solved in  the  necessary  quantity  of  alcohol  of  best  quality. 

Thoroughly  mix  all  the  ingredients  and  pass  the  mix- 
ture through  a  fine  sieve.  This  tooth-powder  should  be 
used  only  every  5  or  6  days ;  when  too  frequently  used 
it  affects  the  nerves. 

Opiat  liquide  pour  les  dents. — Genuine  honey  1J  Ibs., 
sugar  syrup  2J  ozs.,  best  wheat  flour  7  ozs.,  round-lake 

2  ozs.,  peppermint  oil  and  clove  oil  each  11 J  drachms. 


DENTIFRICES,    MOUTH-WATERS,    ETC.  281 

Convert  the  round-lake  into  a  fine  powder  and  pass 
it  through  a  fine  sieve  into  a  capacious  porcelain  dish. 
Then  intimately  mix  it  with  the  wheat  flour,  gradually 
add  the  honey  and  syrup,  and  after  thoroughly  working 
the  mass  for  about  J  hour,  add  the  volatile  oil.  Now 
work  the  whole  thoroughly  with  the  pestle,  then  cover 
the  dish,  and  after  allowing  it  to  stand  quietly  for  about 
36  hours,  bring  the  mass  into  boxes  of  glass  or  tin  pro- 
vided with  screw-tops. 

Poudre  d'Algerine. — Cream  of  tartar  and  pulverized 
red  coral  each  2  Ibs.,  pulverized  burnt  alum.l  lb.,  pul- 
verized sugar  of  milk  2  Ibs.,  cochineal  as  coloring 
matter  3J  ozs. 

The  pulverized  ingredients  are  brought  into  an  en- 
amelled vessel  having  a  capacity  of  12  quarts  and 
thoroughly  mixed,  so  that  the  cochineal  is  uniformly 
distributed  in  the  mass.  Now  have  ready  about  3  quarts 
of  nearly  boiling  water  and  a  thoroughly  cleansed  soap- 
stirrer  or  similar  instrument. 

When  everything  is  prepared,  quickly  pour  the  hot 
water  upon  the  powder  in  the  enamelled  vessel  and  stir 
rapidly  and  thoroughly  during  the  effervescence  which 
immediately  takes  place.  The  effervescence  gradually 
ceases  and  the  result  will  be  a  beautiful  crimson  colored 
mass,  the  hot  water  having  immediately  and  completely 
dissolved  the  coloring  matter  of  the  cochineal.  Now, 
bring  the  mass  into  a  shallow  box  lined  with  clean  white 
paper  and  place  it  to  dry  in  an  airy  room,  but  do  not 
expose  it  to  the  air  or  sun-light.  The  next  day  the 
mass  in  the  box  is  thoroughly  worked  through,  this 
operation  being  repeated  every  day  until  the  mass  is  dry. 
It  is  then  again  powdered,  whereby  it  acquires  a  rose 


282  MANUFACTURE   OF   PERFUMERY. 

color,  and  is  then  sifted.  The  powder  is  perfumed  with 
peppermint  oil  1  oz.  and  clove  oil  and  cassia  oil  each  5J 
ozs.,  sufficient  glycerin  to  prevent  dust,  being  at  the  same 
time  rubbed  in.  With  the  addition  of  the  glycerin  the 
beautiful  crimson  color  of  the  powder  reappears.  This 
tooth-powder  possesses  excellent  cleansing  qualities  and 
can  be  recommended  chiefly  to  persons  having  yellow 
teeth,  as  well  as  to  smokers  whose  teeth  commence  to  get 
black. 

Dr.  Hufeland's  tooth  soap. — Best  quality  of  tallow 
melted  without  acid  14  Ibs.,  soda  lye  of  38°  B.  6}  Ibs., 
potash  lye  of  20°  B.  1  Ib.  Further,  yellow  ochre  1  lb., 
umber  4J  ozs.,  and  precipitated  carbonate  of  calcium  3 
Ibs.,  stirred  together  with  hot  water  2  quarts.  Pepper- 
mint oil  5J  ozs.,  clove  oil  14  drachms. 

The  kettle  with  the  tallow  strained  through  a  cloth 
is  brought  upon  the  water-bath  and  the  tallow  heated  to 
167°  F.  The  lye  heated  to  about  100°  F.  is  then  slowly 
added  to  the  tallow  in  the  kettle,  and,  after  stirring  for 
about  J  hour,  the  mass  is  allowed  to  rest  quietly,  the 
kettle  being  lightly  covered  and  only  a  little  steam  ad- 
mitted or  fire  kept  under  the  kettle,  so  that  saponifica- 
tion  does  not  take  place  too  rapidly. 

Saponification  will  be  slowly  effected  from  the  sides  of 
the  kettle  in  about  one  hour,  the  mass  in  the  kettle  rising 
somewhat.  This  rising  indicates  that  the  process  of 
saponification  is  going  on.  The  mass  is  now  again 
stirred,  which  must  be  done  carefully  and  not  hastily,  as 
otherwise  the  soap  readily  becomes  spumous.  When 
the  soap  again  lies  quietly  in  the  kettle,  it  will  have  the 
appearance  of  a  white  prime  grain-soap.  Now  add  the 
coloring  substances  and  the  precipitated  carbonate  of 


DENTIFRICES,   MOUTH-WATERS,    ETC.  283 

calcium  and  thoroughly  stir,  so  that  the  mass  acquires  a 
uniform  brown  color.  Then  remove  the  kettle  from  the 
water-bath,  add  the  perfumes  with  constant  stirring, 
bring  the  finished  tooth  soap  into  the  frame,  lightly  cover 
the  latter  with  the  wooden  lid  and  let  stand  over  night. 
The  next  day  the  tooth  soap  may  be  cut  up  into  suitable 
pieces,  which  are  allowed  to  dry  for  about  12  hours  and 
then  packed  in  tinfoil,  etc. 

Tooth-soap. — Castile  soap  1  lb.,  prepared  chalk  1 
oz.,  thymol  20  grains,  oil  of  wintergreen  30  drops. 

Shave  the  soap  into  ribbons,  beat  it  into  a  paste  with 
a  little  water,  and  add  first  the  prepared  chalk  and  lastly 
the  thymol  and  wintergreen  oil  dissolved  in  a  little  water. 

Saponaceous  tooth-wash. — White  Castile  soap  3  ozs., 
oil  of  orange  peel  10  drops,  oil  of  cinnamon  5  drops, 
water  4  ozs.,  alcohol  12  ozs. 

Shave  the  soap  into  ribbons  ;  melt  with  the  water  in 
a  water-bath,  adding  the  alcohol  while  still  warm. 
Continue  the  heat  if  necessary,  until  solution  is  effected. 
When  cold,  dissolve  the  oils  in  the  liquid. 


284  MANUFACTURE   OF   PERFUMERY. 


CHAPTER  XII. 

HATR   POMADES,  HAIR   OILS,  AND   HAIR  TONICS  ;    HAIR 
DYES   AND   DEPILATORIES. 

To  properly  preserve  the  hair  it  requires  to  be  occa- 
sionally oiled,  and  the  scalp  to  be  frequently  cleansed. 
Pomades  and  oils  serve  for  the  former  purpose,  and  hair 
tonics  for  the  latter.  For  the  preparation  of  pomades, 
fats,  such  as  lard,  beef-tallow,  and  beef-marrow,  ate 
principally  used,  though  cocoa  butter,  cocoanut  oil, 
castor  oil,  almond  oil,  spermaceti,  and  wax,  and,  more 
recently,  vaseline  are  also  employed.  For  the  prepara- 
tion of  hair  oils,  fat  oils,  especially  olive  oil  and  almond 
oil  are  used,  but  also  poppy  oil,  peanut  oil,  sesame  oil, 
etc.  The  fats  and  oils  used  should  not  be  rancid,  for,  on 
the  one  hand,  the  bad  odor  arising  from  rancidity  is 
troublesome  in  perfuming,  and,  on  the  other,  what  is  of 
still  greater  importance,  rancid  fat  injuriously  affects  the 
scalp  and  the  growth  of  the  hair.  Of  the  oils  above 
mentioned,  which  are  sometimes  used,  poppy  oil  is  a 
drying  oil,  and,  therefore,  not  suitable  for  the  purpose. 

Some  fats  enjoy  a  special  reputation  as  hair  pomades, 
the  property  of  strengthening  the  scalp  and  promoting 
the  growth  of  the  hair  being  ascribed  to  them.  This  is 
especially  the  case  as  regards  beef  marrow  and  horse 
fat,*  whilst  in  olden  times  the  bone  marrow  of  the  deer 

*  Genuine  horse  fat  is  obtained  from  the  upper  portion  of  the 
neck  of  the  horse. 


HAIR   POMADES,    HAIR   OILS   AND   TONICS.        285 

(cerval  medullce)  and  bear's  grease  were  believed  to  pos- 
sess this  property.  Cleopatra  is  said  to  have  used  the 
latter,  and  many  ladies  are  at  the  present  time  under 
the  impression  that  they  apply  it  to  their  hair  when  they 
use  Pommade  d  la  graisse  d'ours.  Thoroughly  purified 
lard  renders  no  doubt  the  same  service  as  the  above- 
mentioned  fats. 

POMADES.  Pomades  are  prepared  by  two  different 
methods ;  the  desired  odor  is  imparted  to  the  fat  by  the 
extraction  of  the  flowers  of  various  plants,  or  the  fat  in 
a  semi-congealed  state  is  perfumed  with  different  vola- 
tile oils. 

The  fats  used  for  pomades  should,  as  above  indicated, 
be  as  fresh  and  pure  as  possible,  so  that  they  will  keep 
for  a  long  time.  Fats  intended  for  fine  pomades,  for 
which  lard  and  beef-tallow  are  chiefly  used,  are  generally 
first  subjected  to  purification  by,  for  some  time,  treating 
them  with  cold  water,  constantly  renewed,  and  thor- 
oughly washing,  so  that  all  adhering  particles  of  dirt 
and  mucus  are  removed,  and  the  pomades  prepared  from 
them  are  better  protected  against  rancidity.  For  the 
removal  of  the  water  adhering  from  washing,  the  fats 
are  remelted.  Still  greater  durability  is  imparted  to 
the  fat  by  adding  in  remelting  a  small  quantity  of  sali- 
cylic acid  (2f  drachms  of  the  acid  to  2  Ibs.  of  fat),  or  of 
gum  benzoin.  A  small  addition  of  ethyl  nitrite  also 
renders  the  fats  more  durable. 

The  purification  of  the  fat,  which  generally  consists 
of  2  to  3  parts  lard  and  1  part  beef-tallow,  is  frequently 
effected  as  follows  :  Boil  for  about  one  hour  125  Ibs.  of 
fat  with  about  30  gallons  of  water  containing  1  Ib.  each 
of  common  salt  and  alum  in  solution,  constantly  remov- 


286  MANUFACTURE   OF   PERFUMERY. 

ing  the  scum  formed.  After  standing  for  several  hours, 
the  fat  thus  purified  is  carefully  taken  off  from  the  sedi- 
ment and  water ;  it  is  then,  together  with  4  to  6  Ibs.  of 
pulverized  benzoin,  for  some  time  heated  at  167°  F.,  and 
finally  strained  into  stone  jars,  which,  after  the  fat  is 
cold,  are  closed  with  a  piece  of  bladder  or  waxed  paper 
and  kept  for  use.  I^at  thus  prepared  keeps  for  years. 

For  coloring  the  pomades  are  used:  1.  For  red: 
Alkannin,  cinnabar,  carmine  (triturated  with  a  small 
quantity  of  sal  ammoniac  and  added  to  the  fat)  and 
safranin  (1  part  of  it  dissolved  in  20  parts  alcohol  and 
80  parts  water  and  added  to  the  melted  fat).  2.  For 
yellow :  Annotto,  turmeric,  cadmium  sulphide.  3.  For 
brown :  Cocoa  powder  and  ochre.  4.  For  green :  Chlo- 
rophyl.  Besides  the  above-mentioned  coloring  substances, 
a  very  intense  coloring  matter  for  pomades  is  brought 
into  commerce  under  the  name  "  Lederin"  by  Saltzer  & 
Voigt,  of  Oker,  Germany.  It  is  manufactured  in  lemon 
color,  orange,  cinnabar,  violet,  and  brown  shades,  and  10 
to  12  drachms  of  it,  triturated  in  a  porcelain  dish  with 
about  1  Ib.  of  the  warm  fat,  will  impart  a  truly  beautiful 
color  to  100  Ibs.  of  fat  or  oil. 

Fine  French  Pomades  (Flower  Pomades). — In  France, 
especially  in  the  southern  part,  where  the  cultivation  of 
the  various  flowers,  such  as  roses,  violets,  mignonette, 
heliotrope,  etc.,  is  carried  on  on  an  extensive  scale,  the 
fine  pomades  are  prepared  by  the  method  previously 
mentioned  (see  p.  58  ei  seq.). 

The  maceration  or  extraction  of  the  flowers  is  effected 
as  follows  :  The  fat,  generally  consisting  of  3  parts  lard 
and  1  part  beef-tallow,  is  melted  in  an  enamelled  vessel 
over  the  steam  or  water-bath.  The  flowers  in  a  clean 


HAIR   POMADES,    HAIR   OILS   AND   TONICS.       287 

linen  bag  are  suspended  in  the  fat,  and  after  covering 
the  vessel  the  fat  is  kept,  according  to  the  strength  of 
the  perfume  of  the  respective  variety  of  flower,  for  a  day 
or  two  more  at  a  temperature  of  from  133°  to  145°  F. 
The  extracted  and  exhausted  flowers  are  then  taken  out, 
slightly  pressed  out,  and  thrown  away.  The  same  ope- 
ration with  always  the  same  quantities  of  fresh  flowers 
is  then  repeated  ten  to  twelve  times  with  the  same  fat, 
until  it  is  sufficiently  perfumed.  The  pomade  thus 
obtained,  to  which  some  white  vaseline  is  frequently 
added,  is  then  stirred  until  cold. 

Receipts  for  some  flower  pomades  are  here  given  : — 

Pommade  a  la  rose. — Extract,  in  the  manner  above 
given,  with  6  Ibs.  of  lard  and  2  Ibs.  of  beef-tallow,  both 
thoroughly  purified,  8  Ibs.  of  fresh  rose  leaves.  Treat 
the  fat  ten  to  twelve  times  in  the  same  manner  with  an 
equal  quantity  of  fresh  rose  leaves. 

Pommade  a  V acacia. — Extract  6  Ibs.  of  fresh  acacia 
flowers  with  20  Ibs.  of  fat,  and  repeat  the  operation  ten 
times  with  a  like  quantity  of  fresh  flowers. 

Pommade  a  la  fleur  d?  orange. — Extract  8  Ibs.  of  fresh 
orange  flowers  with  8  Ibs.  of  fat,  and  repeat  the  opera- 
tion eight  times  with  a  like  quantity  of  fresh  flowers. 

Pommade  a  V heliotrope. — Extract  8  Ibs.  of  fresh  helio- 
trope flowers  with  8  Ibs.  of  fat,  and  repeat  the  operation 
eight  to  ten  times  with  an  equal  quantity  of  fresh  flowers. 

All  simple  French  pomades,  for  which  flowers  fur- 
nish the  perfume,  are  prepared  in  a  similar  manner. 
For  pomades  are  chiefly  used  the  flowers  of  the  gera- 
nium, jasmine,  mignonette,  hyacinth,  tuberose,  narcissus, 
lily,  etc.,  the  pomades  as  a  rule  receiving  the  name  of  the 
perfume  imparted  to  them. 


288  MANUFACTURE  OF  PERFUMERY. 

POMADES  ACCORDING  TO  THE  GERMAN  METHOD. 
Most  of  the  pomades  consumed  in  Germany  are 
prepared  from  fresh,  purified  lard  and  beef-tallow, 
though  sometimes  additions  of  wax,  spermaceti,  stearin, 
castor-oil,  cocoanut  oil,  etc.,  are  made,  or  the  pomade  is 
entirely  composed  of  the  latter  fats.  For  inferior 
qualities  of  pomades,  borax  is  much  used,  since  it  not 
only  possesses  the  property  of  combining  a  quantity  of 
water  with  the  fat,  but  also  makes  the  pomade  more 
durable.  Soap  dissolved  in  hot  water  is  also  often 
added  to  the  fat,  whereby  not  oi^ly  considerable  water 
is  fixed  in  the  pomade,  but  the  latter  also  becomes  very 
white  and  pliant.  In  regard  to  pomades  containing 
borax,  it  may  be  mentioned  that  safranin  has  proved  a 
durable  substance  for  coloring  the  pomades  red,  while 
alkannin  suffers  alterations. 

The  fabrication  of  pomades  is  very  simple.  The  fat, 
after  being  melted,  and  somewhat  cooled  off,  is  generally 
vigorously  worked  or  beaten  with  a  wooden  pestle  or 
spatula,  until  it  acquires  a  frothy,  cream-like  appearance. 
By  this  treatment  the  fat  also  gains  in  volume,  small  air 
bubbles  being  inclosed  in  it.  On  the  other  hand,  the  fat 
is  stirred  until  cold,  then  perfumed  and  poured  into  pots. 

The  following  mixtures  of  fat  may  serve  as  suitable 
foundations  for  white  pomades  : — 

I.  Lard  6  Ibs.,  beef-tallow  2  Ibs. 

II.  Lard  6  Ibs.,  beef-tallow  3  Ibs. 

III.  Lard  7J  Ibs.,  spermaceti  1J  Ibs. 

IV.  Castor  oil  6  Ibs.,  vaseline  1 J  Ibs.,  wax  1  Ib. 

V.  Lard  8  Ibs.,  cocoanut  oil  2  Ibs. 

VI.  Castor  oil  6  Ibs.,  spermaceti  1  Ib. 

VII.  Lard  6  Ibs.,  cocoanut  oil  3  Ibs. 


HAIR   POMADES,    HAIR   OILS   AND   TONICS.        289 

VIII.  Lard  8  Ibs.,  wax  1  lb.,  cocoa  butter  1  Ib. 

IX.  Pomade  fat  12  Ibs.,  soap  4  ozs.,  dissolved   in 
hot  water,  borax  J  drachm.     This  mass  will  stand  about 
J  water. 

X.  In  summer :  Fat  6  Ibs.,  stearin  7  ozs. 
In  winter :  Fat  6  Ibs.,  stearin  4J  ozs. 

To  either  mass  given  under  X,  add  and  combine 
thoroughly  with  it  14  drachms  of  borax  dissolved  in  1 
quart  of  water. 

The  pomades,  while  still  warm,  are  colored  and  finally 
perfumed.  For  perfuming,  different  volatile  oils  and  per- 
fume substances  of  suitable  composition  are  used,  1  to  1J 
ozs.  of  perfume  being  generally  sufficient  for  2  Ibs.  of  fat. 

Receipts  for  the  best  known  and  most  popular  pomades 
are  as  follows  : — 

Apple  pomade. — Digest  for  some  time  in  the  water 
bath  2  Ibs.  of  fresh  apple  parings  with  6  Ibs.  of  lard 
and  2  Ibs.  of  beef-tallow,  press,  color  yellow,  stir  until 
cold,  and  perfume  with  1  oz.  amyl  valerate,  commonly 
called  "apple  oil." 

Bear's  grease  pomade. — Perfume  purified  bear's  grease 
8  Ibs.,  or  benzoated  lard  6  Ibs.  and  beef-tallow  2  Ibs., 
with  rose-geranium  oil  2f  ozs.  and  vanilla  tincture  2  ozs. 

Quinine  pomade  No.  1. — Fresh  lard  6  Ibs.,  fresh  beef- 
tallow  2J  Ibs.,  quinotannic  acid  13  ozs.,  tincture  of  can- 
tharides  and  distilled  water  each  8  ozs.,  Peru  balsam 
4  ozs.,  rose-geranium  oil  8  drachms. 

Quinine  pomade  No.  2. — Vaseline  4  Ibs.,  paraffin  2 
Ibs.,  fat  jasmine  oil  1  lb.,  Peruvian  bark  extract  |  lb., 
tannin  5J-  ozs.,  Peru  balsam  3J  ozs.,  rose-geranium  oil 
11  drachms. 

Melt  together  the  vaseline  and  paraffin,  add  the  Peru- 

19 


290  MANUFACTURE    OF    PERFUMERY. 

vian  bark  extract  previously  rubbed  up  with  as  little 
water  as  possible,  and  stir  in  the  tannin  dissolved  in  the 
volatile  oils. 

Quinine  pomade  (imitation)  No.  1. — Benzoated  lard 
6  Ibs.,  beef-tallow  2  Ibs.,  colored  with  prepared  cocoa 
powder  about  14  ozs.,  and  perfumed  with  Peruvian 
balsam  2j  ozs.,  bergamot  oil,  citronella  oil,  and  eau  de 
Cologne  each  5J  drachms,  and  oils  of  cloves,  lavender, 
and  cinnamon  each  40  drops. 

Quinine  pomade  (imitation)  No.  2. — Lard  6  Ibs.,  beef- 
tallow  2J  Ibs.,  cocoa  powder  15f  ozs.,  Peru  balsam  2J- 
ozs.,  cassia  oil  If  ozs.,  clove  oil  2|  drachms,  oil  of  bitter 
almonds  10  drops. 

Benzoin  pomade. — Digest  for  several  hours  in  a  water 
bath  at  167°  F.  6  Ibs.  of  lard,  2  Ibs.  of  beef-tallow,  and 
1 J  Ibs.  of  pulverized  benzoin,  and  strain  off  the  fat. 

Densdorf  pomade. — Castor  oil  6  Ibs.,  vaseline  1J  Ibs., 
yellow  wax  1  lb.,  bergamot  oil  2J  ozs.,  lemon  oil  1 J  ozs., 
geranium  oil  4J  drachms. 

Ice  pomade  No.  1. — Best  olive  oil  6  Ibs.,  white  vaseline 
and  spermaceti  each  1J  Ibs.,  bergamot  oil  3  ozs.,  bitter 
almond  oil  11  drachms,  rose-geranium  oil  8^  drachms, 
cinnamon  oil  5J  drachms. 

Ice  pomade  No.  2. — Fat  almond  oil  6  Ibs.,  spermaceti 
1J  Ibs.,  bergamot  oil  If  ozs.,  citronella  oil  14  drachms, 
palma  rose  oil  2}  drachms. 

Family  pomade  (red). — Fresh  lard  6  Ibs.,  beef-tallow 
3  Ibs.,  bergamot  oil  1 J  ozs.,  oils  of  lemon,  lavender,  and 
cinnamon  each  14  drachms.  Color  with  alkannin. 

Family  pomade  (white). — Fresh  lard  6  Ibs.,  beef-tallow 
3  Ibs.,  lemon  oil  2  ozs.,  sweet  orange  oil  1J  ozs.,  berga- 
mot oil  1  oz. 


HAIR   POMADES,    HAIR   OILS   AND   TONICS.        291 

Family  pomade  (rose  color). — Fresh  lard  6  Ibs.,  beef- 
tallow  3  Ibs.,  palma-rose  oil,  citronella  oil,  and  lavender 
oil  each  1J  ozs.  Color  with  alkannin. 

Family  pomade  (yellow}. — Fresh  lard  6  Ibs.,  beef-tallow 
3  Ibs.,  bergamot  oil  If  ozs.,  cassia  oil  14  drachms,  clove 
oil  8J  drachms,  thyme  oil  5J  drachms.  Color  with 
lederin  or  annotto. 

Family  pomade  (brown). —  Fresh  lard  6  Ibs.,  beef-tallow 
3  Ibs.,  cassia. oil  If  ozs.,  caraway  oil  1  oz.,  sweet  orange 
oil  and  clove  oil  each  11 J-  drachms.  Color  brown  with 
cocoa  powder,  lederin,  or  umber. 

Strawberry  pomade. — Fresh  ripe  strawberries  1J  Ibs., 
fresh  lard,  6  Ibs.,  fresh  beef-tallow  2  Ibs.,  rose  oil  5 
drops. 

Put  the  strawberries  in  a  clean  linen  bag,  and  digest 
them  for  some  time  with  the  fat  in  the  water-bath. 
Then  moderately  press  the  strawberries,  color  with 
alkannin,  and  finally  perfume. 

Fine  hair  pomade. — Fresh  lard  8  Ibs.,  cocoanut  oil 
and  wax  each  1  lb.,  bergamot  oil  3  ozs.,  lemon  oil  1J 
ozs.,  geranium  oil  5J  drachms,  musk  tincture  1  drachm.* 

Pomade  for  promoting  the  growth  of  the  hair. — Lard 
6  Ibs.,  beef-tallow  2  Ibs.,  tincture  of  cantharides  10J  ozs., 
lemon  oil  2J  ozs.,  bergamot  oil  2  ozs.,  cinnamon  oil 
1J  drachms. 

Heliotrope  pomade,  finest  quality. — Lard  treated  with 
benzoin  6  Ibs.,  beef  tallow  treated  with  benzoin  2  Ibs., 
heliotropin  3f  drachms,  dissolved  in  a  small  quantity  of 
the  fat  heated  to  about  111°  F. ;  neroli  oil  35  drops. 

*  A  pomade  containing  musk  cannot  be  used  by  everyone,  since 
in  nervous  persons  it  may  readily  cause  headache. 


292  MANUFACTURE   OF   PERFUMERY. 

Heliotrope  pomade. — Fresh  lard  6  Ibs.,  fresh  beef 
tallow  2  Ibs.,  Peru  balsam  2J  ozs.,  cassia  oil  1J  ozs., 
clove  oil  8J  drachms,  artificial  bitter-almond  oil  1J 
drachms. 

Jasmine  pomade. — Benzoated  lard  6  Ibs.,  benzoated 
beef  tallow  2  Ibs.,  fat  jasmine  oil  2f  Ibs.,  rose  oil  25 
drops. 

Emperor  pomade. — Melt  together  7|  Ibs.  of  fresh 
olive  oil,  2  Ibs.  of  castor  oil,  and  2|  Ibs.  of  spermaceti. 
Perfume  with  fat  jasmine  oil  7  ozs.,  Turkish  rose  oil  and 
bergamot  oil  each  2J  drachms,  neroli  oil  50  drops,  gera- 
nium oil  20  drops,  orris-root  oil  10  drops,  heliotropin 
J  drachm,  and  cumarin  -£-$  drachm. 

Dissolve  the  heliotropin  and  cumarin  in  a  portion  of 
the  fat  heated  to  111°  F.,  add  the  solution,  together  with 
the  other  perfume-materials,  to  the  fat  before  it  con- 
geals, then  pour  the  pomade  into  jars  and  allow  it  to 
cool  slowly. 

Macassar  pomade. — Castor  oil  6  Ibs.,  vaseline  1J 
Ibs.,  wax  1  lb.,  bergamot  oil  2  ozs.,  cassia  oil  and  cin- 
namon oil  each  1  oz.,  rose-geranium  oil  2f  drachms. 

Portugal  pomade. — Fresh  lard  4  Ibs.,  white  vaseline 
1  lb.,  wax  3J  ozs.,  Portugal  oil  2  ozs.,  bergamot  oil  1 J 
ozs.,  caraway  oil  2f  drachms. 

Herb  pomade. — Melt  together  fresh  lard  8  Ibs.,  Japa- 
nese wax  and  bay  berry  oil  each.  3  J  ozs.,  improve  the 
color  with  chlorophyl,  and  perfume  with  lemon  oil  14 
drachms,  bergamot  oil  11  drachms,  clove  oil  5|  drachms, 
geranium  oil  3J  drachms,  and  a  few  drops  of  curly  mint 
oil. 

Lanolin  pomade.  —  Benzoated  fat  4  Ibs.,  benzoin- 
ized  olive  oil  and  lanolin  each  2  Ibs.,  bergamot  oil  3J 


HAIR   POMADES,    HAIR   OILS   AND   TONICS.        293 

ozs.,  cinnamon  oil  7J  drachms,  clove  oil  5J  drachms, 
lavender  oil  3f  drachms,  nerolin  1  drachm  dissolved  in 
a  portion  of  the  fat  heated  to  111°  F.  Color  red  with 
alkannin. 

Oriental  pomade. — Benzoated  lard  6  Ibs.,  benzoated 
beef-tallow  2  Ibs.,  bergamot  oil  2  ozs.,  clove  oil  1J  ozs., 
neroli  oil  5J  drachms,  musk  tincture  J  drachm.  Color 
red  with  lederin. 

Paraffin  ice  pomade. — Castor  oil  or  olive  oil  6  Ibs., 
paraffin  1  lb.,  bergamot  oil  3J  ozs.,  palma  rose  oil  11 J 
drachms. 

Neroli  pomade. — Benzoated  lard  ft  Ibs.,  benzoated 
beef-tallow  2  Ibs.,  fat  jasmine  oil  and  fat  rose  oil  each 
If  ozs.,  oil  of  bitter  almonds  2  drops,  nerolin  1J 
drachms  dissolved  in  a  small  portion  of  the  fat  heated 
to  111°  F.  Color  pale  yellow. 

Cheap  pomade  (red,  yellow,  white). — Lard  5  Ibs.,  beef- 
tallow  or  cocoanut  oil  2  Ibs.,  perfumed  with  about  3  J  ozs. 
of  fruit  ether. 

Mignonette  pomade.  —  Benzoated  lard  4  Ibs.,  ben- 
zoated beef-tallow  and  fat  mignonette  oil  each  2  Ibs., 
tolu-balsam  tincture  4}  ozs.  Color  pale  green  with 
chlorophyl. 

Castor  oil  pomade  No.  1. — Melt  together  4  Ibs.  of  castor 
oil  and  11 J  ozs.  of  spermaceti  and  perfume  with  berga- 
mot oil  2  ozs.,  and  geranium  oil  6J  drachms. 

Castor  oil  pomade  No.  2. — Castor  oil  and  fine  olive  oil 
each  2  Ibs.,  yellow  wax  7  ozs.,  bergamot  oil  and  sweet 
orange  oil  each  14  drachms,  clove  oil  8J  drachms, 
neroli  oil  2J  drachms. 

Princess  pomade. — Fresh  lard  8  Ibs.,  cocoa  butter  and 
wax  each  1  lb.,  bergamot  oil  3|  ozs.,  lemon  oil  and 


294  MANUFACTURE    OF    PERFUMERY. 

lavender  oil  each  14  drachms,  neroli  oil  6f  drachms. 
Color  rose  color  with  alkannin. 

Fine  pomade. — Benzoated  lard  6  Ibs.,  benzoated  beef- 
tallow  2  Ibs.,  lemon  oil  2  ozs.,  sweet  orange  oil  1J  ozs., 
bergamot  oil  1  oz.  Color  yellow  with  annotto. 

Beef-marrow  pomade. — Melt  together  4  Ibs.  of  lard 
and  1  Ib.  of  beef-marrow,  or,  4  Ibs  of  lard,  14  ozs.  of 
spermaceti,  and  If  ozs.  of  yellow  wax,  color  yellow  and 
perfume  with  lemon  oil  14  drachms,  bergamot  oil  6f 
drachms,  and  a  few  drops  of  clove  oil. 

Rogers' s  pomade  for  producing  a  beard. — Lard  7J  Ibs., 
yellow  wax  |  Ib.,  fine  cantharides  powder  10  J  ozs.,  berga- 
mot oil  1J  ozs.,  oils  of  lemon,  cinnamon  and  lavender 
each  11  drachms. 

Rose  pomade. — Fresh  lard  6  Ibs.,  fresh  beef-tallow  2 
Ibs.,  palma  rosa  oil  2f  ozs.,  citronella  oil  11  drachms, 
alkannin  for  coloring  1  to  1J  ozs. 

Fine  rose  pomade. — Fresh  lard  2J  Ibs.,  spermaceti 
and  fat  almond  oil,  each  3J  ozs.,  rose  geranium  oil  1 J 
ozs.,  bitter  almond  oil  1J  ozs. 

Finest  rose  pomade. — Fat  rose  oil  2f  Ibs.,  spermaceti 
7  ozs.,  white  wax  3J  ozs.,  rose-geranium  oil  1J  ozs., 
rose  oil  and  bergamot  oil,  each  J  drachm.  Color  red 
with  alkannin. 

Salicylic  pomade. — Fresh  lard  7  Ibs.,  white  wax  1  Ib., 
fat  jasmine  oil  If  Ibs.  Peru  balsam  5J  ozs.,  salicylic 
acid  2  ozs.,  dissolved  in  alcohol  4  ozs. 

Victoria  pomade. — Melt  together  3  J  Ibs.  of  fat  almond 
oil  and  10J  ozs.  of  white  wax,  and  perfume  the  mixture, 
when  quite  cooled  off,  with  fat  jasmine  oil  J  Ib.,  rose 
oil  and  geranium  oil  each  1  drachm.  Color  rose  color 
with  alkannin. 

Tonka  pomade. — Lard  7J  Ibs.,  spermaceti  J  Ib.,  cuma- 


HAIR    POMADES,    HAIR    OILS    AND    TONICS.        295 

rin  4J  drachms,  dissolved  in  a  small  portion  of  the  warm 
fat. 

Fine  vanilla  pomade. — Benzoated  lard  6  Ibs.,  beef- 
tallow  2  Ibs.,  vanilla  2f  drachms,  dissolved  in  a  small 
portion  of  the  warm  fat. 

Vanilla  pomade. — Lard  and  vaseline  each  2  Ibs.,  wax 
3J  ozs.,  Peruvian  balsam  1J  ozs.,  bitter-almond  oil  J 
drachm,  cinnamon  oil  20  drops. 

Violet  pomade. — Lard  4  Ibs.,  vaseline  2  Ibs.,  wax  5J 
ozs.,  spermaceti  If  ozs.,  fat  orris-root  oil  2  Ibs.,  berga- 
mot  oil  3f  drachms,  clove  oil  2J  drachms,  cinnamon  oil 
I  drachm,  rose  oil  J  drachm. 

Walnut  pomade. — Work  in  a  mortar  to  a  uniform  paste 
J  Ib.  of  fresh  green  walnut-shells  and  2  ozs.  of  alum. 
Digest  the  paste  with  2f  Ibs.  of  benzoinized  lard  and 
tallow  in  the  water-bath  until  the  fat  appears  clear. 
Then  strain  oif  the  fat,  stir  until  cold,  and  perfume 
with  1J  drachms  of  neroli  oil  and  \  drachm  of  rose  oil. 

VASELINE  POMADES. — Vaseline  pomades  consisting 
neither  of  an  animal  nor  of  a  vegetable  fat,  but  almost 
entirely  of  a  mineral  fat,  form  a  special  division  of 
pomades.  On  account  of  its  good  properties  and  cheap- 
ness, vaseline,  which  is  obtained  from  petroleum  resi- 
dues, etc.,  has  for  several  years  past  been  much  used  in 
the  preparation  of  pomades.  The  pomades  prepared 
from  vaseline  are  not  only  very  suitable  for  oiling  the 
hair,  as  they  never  become  rancid,  but  may  also  ad- 
vantageously be  used  as  a  remedy  for  chapped  skin, 
inflammation,  cuts,  burns,  etc.  For  pomades  odorless 
vaseline  has  to  be  used,  1  Ib.  of  it  requiring  about  5J  to 
8J  drachms  of  perfume.  Lederin,  which  has  been  pre- 
viously mentioned,  is  best  suited  for  coloring  the  pomades. 


296  MANUFACTURE   OF   PERFUMERY. 

When  used  for  pomades  vaseline,  though  by  itself  suffi- 
cient for  the  purpose,  frequently  receives  an  addition  of 
paraffin,  wax  (mostly  ceresin),  and  lard.  To  vaseline 
pomades  intended  for  export  to  warm  climates,  an  addi- 
tion of  J  to  J-  ceresin  is  required. 

The  following  mixtures  give  good  foundations  for 
vaseline  pomade  : — 

I.  Yellow  or  white  vaseline  2  parts,  paraffin  1. 
II.  Vaseline  5  parts,  paraffin  or  ceresin  1. 

III.  Vaseline  3  parts,  ceresin  1. 

IV.  Vaseline  and  lard  each  10  parts,  ceresin  1. 

The  pomades  are  prepared  by  first  melting  the  paraffin 
or  ceresin  and  then  slowly  stirring  in  the  vaseline.  When 
the  fat  commences  to  thicken,  the  perfume  is  added  and 
the  pomade  poured  into  jars  or  tin  boxes. 

A  few  good  receipts  for  vaseline  pomades  are  here 
given. 

Bouquet  vaseline  pomade. — White  vaseline  and  fresh 
lard  each  2  Ibs.,  ceresin  3J  ozs.,  bergamot  oil  \\  ozs., 
lavender  oil  6f  drachms,  cinnamon  oil  5J  drachms, 
neroli  oil  3f  drachms,  geranium  oil  2f  drachms. 

Family  vaseline  pomade. — Pale  yellow  vaseline  10  Ibs., 
oils  of  bergamot  and  lemons  each  1  oz.,  citronella  oil 
12J  drachms,  cassia  oil  8J  drachms,  lavender  oil  4J 
drachms,  clove  oil  3f  drachms ;  or,  bergamot  oil  2  ozs., 
palma-rose  oil  1}  ozs.,  lavender  oil  5J  drachms. 

Lily  of  the  valley  vaseline  pomade. — White  vaseline  and 
fresh  lard  each  2  Ibs.,  ceresin  3J  ozs.,  bergamot  oil  1  oz., 
ylang-ylang  oil  2f  drachms,  licari  oil  J  drachm. 

Neroli  vaseline  pomade. — Vaseline  10  Ibs.,  ceresin  2 
Ibs.,  geranium  oil  1  oz.,  nerolin  3}  drachms,  dissolved 
in  a  small  portion  of  the  warm  fat. 


HAIR   POMADES,    HAIR   OILS   AND   TONICS.        297 

Mignonette  vaseline  pomade.  —  White  vaseline  2  Ibs., 
paraffin  1  lb.,  bergamot  oil  9  drachms,  neroli  oil  5| 
drachms,  artificial  bitter  almond  oil  15  drops. 

Portugal  vaseline  pomade.  —  Pale  yellow  vaseline  10 
Ibs.,  ceresin  3J  ozs.,  Portugal  oil  2f  ozs.,  cassia  oil  1 
oz.,  lavender  oil  5J  drachms. 

Rose  vaseline  pomade,  No.  1.  —  Vaseline  6  Ibs.,  ceresin 
3J  ozs.,  rose-geranium  oil  1J  ozs.,  nerolin  j  drachm. 
Colored  with  lederin. 

Rose  vaseline  pomade.  No.  2.  —  Vaseline  and  lard  each 
2  Ibs.,  ceresin  7  ozs.,  geranium  oil  1J  ozs.,  bergamot  oil 
5|  drachms,  musk  tincture  J  drachm.  Color  red  with 
alkannin. 

Fine  vaseline  pomade  (yellow).  —  Yellow  vaseline  and 
castor  oil  each  2  Ibs.,  yellow  wax  7  ozs.,  lemon  oil  1  oz., 
bergamot  oil  6f  drachms,  nerolin  J  drachm. 

Vaseline  pomade  (red).  —  White  vaseline  4  Ibs., 
paraffin  or  ceresin  14  ozs.,  palma-rose  oil,  citronella  oil 
and  lavender  oil  each  11  J  drachms.  Color  red  with 
lederin  or  alkannin. 

Vaseline  pomade  (white).  —  White  vaseline  4  Ibs., 
paraffin  14  ozs.,  bergamot  oil  1J  ozs.,  cassia  oil  2f 
drachms,  thyme  oil  1  J  drachms. 

Virginia  vaseline  pomade.  —  Digest  for  some  time  in 
the  water-bath  2  Ibs.  of  white  vaseline,  2J  ozs.  each  of 
yellow  wax  and  pulverized  benzoin,  and  11  drachms  of 
Peru  balsam.  Then  filter  and  perfume  with  bergamot 
oil  14  drachms,  citronella  oil  1J  drachms. 

This  pomade  serves  not  only  for  preserving  the  scalp, 
but  is  also  a  good  remedy  for  tetter,  cutaneous  erup- 
tions, etc. 

Victoria    vaseline    pomade.  —  White  vaseline    5    Ibs., 


OTf 


298  MANUFACTURE   OF    PERFUMERY. 

paraffin  1  lb.,  bergamot  oil  1J  ozs.,  rose-geranium  oil  1 
oz.,  lavender  8J  drachms.  Color  red  with  alkannin  or 
lederin. 

Extra  fine  vaseline  pomade. — White  vaseline  4  Ibs., 
ceresin  10  J  ozs.,  bergamot  oil  1J-  ozs.,  lemon  oil  9 
drachms,  palma-rosa  oil  2J  drachms. 

Stick  pomades. — Besides  the  soft,  unctuous  pomades 
thus  far  treated  of,  we  have  a  solid  product — the  so- 
called  stick-pomades.  These  pomades,  which  serve  for 
the  better  fastening  of  the  hair,  are  brought  into  com- 
merce either  as  wax  pomades  or  resin  pomades,  the 
former  being  prepared  from  a  mixture  of  lard,  tallow, 
and  wax,  and  the  latter  from  tallow,  wax,  and  resin,  to 
which  some  Venetian  turpentine  may  be  added. 

The  following  mixtures  give  good  foundations  for 
stick  pomades  : — 

I.  French  flower  pomade  4  parts,  white  wax  1}. 
II.  Fresh  beef  tallow  3  parts,  fresh  lard  1,  wax  1J. 

III.  Best  beef  tallow  5  parts,  yellow  wax  1. 

IV.  Tallow  10  parts,  wax  2|,  resin  1,  Venetian  tur- 

pentine J. 

V.  Tallow  8J  parts,  resin  f ,  ceresin  f . 
VI.  Tallow  4  parts,  pale  resin  1,  yellow  wax  J. 
VII.  Tallow  10  parts,  wax  2,  pale  resin  1. 
VIII.  Olive  oil  2  parts,  pure  stearin  1,  yellow  wax  1. 
IX.  Tallow  9  J  parts,  ceresin  J. 

X.  Best  beef-tallow  10  parts,  yellow  wax  1  J. 
The  usual  process  of  manufacturing  stick-pomade  is 
as  follows :  Melt  the  fat,  wax  and  resin  in  the  water- 
bath,  then  strain  the  mixture  and  cool  it  off  by  constant 
stirring  until  a  thin  film  is  formed  upon  the  surface. 
Then  perfume  and  pour  into  tin  moulds  of  oval,  round 


HAIR   POMADES,    HAIR   OILS   AND    TONICS.        299 

or  square  form  and  of  various  sizes.  A  dozen  of  such 
tin  moulds  of  the  same  size  are  generally  soldered 
together  and  are  provided  below  either  with  a  hinged 
piece,  or  they  are  open.  In  the  latter  case  they  are 
placed  upon  a  tin  support  with  a  high  edge  which  serves 
for  the  reception  for  the  fat  escaping  from  any  of  the 
moulds.  The  cold  pomades  are  pushed  out  by  means  of 
sticks  of  wood  fitting  exactly  into  the  moulds.  They 
are  then  wrapped  in  tin-foil,  labelled  and  brought  into 
commerce. 

Stick-pomades  are  either  white,  rose  color,  yellow, 
brown  or  black ;  alkannin,  lederin,  umber,  Frank- 
fort black,  etc.,  being  used  as  coloring  substances. 

In  the  following  some  receipts  for  wax  and  resin 
pomades  are  given  : — 

Rose-wax  pomade. — Best  tallow  6  Ibs.,  best  lard  2 
Ibs.,  white-wax  3  Ibs.,  colored  with  alkaunin.  Perfume : 
Lemon  oil  1  oz.,  lavender  oil  14  drachms,  geranium  oil 
11  drachms,  clove  oil  6}  drachms  ;  or,  bergamot  oil  1 
oz.,  oils  of  geranium,  cassia  and  Portugal,  each  10 
drachms,  clove  oil  3J  drachms. 

Black-wax  pomade. — Best  tallow  10  Ibs.,  yellow  wax 
1J  Ibs.,  colored  with  Frankfort  black.  Perfume:  Ber- 
gamot oil  3J  ozs.,  cassia  oil  13J  drachms;  or,  bergamot 
oil  3J  ozs.,  citronella  oil  6|  drachms. 

Blonde  wax  pomade. — Best  tallow  6  Ibs.,  best  lard  2 
Ibs.,  white  or  yellow  wax  3  Ibs.  Perfume:  Clove  oil 
1J  ozs.,  lemon  oil,  bergamot  oil  and  Peru  balsam  each 
14  drachms;  or,  bergamot  oil  2f  ozs.,  cassia  oil  5^ 
drachms,  thyme  oil  2f  drachms. 

Brown  wax  pomade. — Best  tallow  10  Ibs.,  yellow  wax 
2  Ibs.,  colored  with  umber.  Perfume:  Citronella  oil 


300  MANUFACTURE   OF   PERFUMERY. 

2  ozs.,  clove  oil  12 J  drachms,  bergamot  oil  8J  drachms, 
anise-seed  oil  6 j-  drachms  ;  or,  bergamot  oil  2J  ozs.,  cas- 
sia oil  1 J  ozs.,  clove  oil  5J  drachms. 

Cheap-wax  pomade  (color  as  desired). — Best  tallow  9  J 
Ibs.,  ceresin  j-  Ib.  Perfume :  Lavender  oil  If  ozs.,  cas- 
sia oil  1  oz.,  palma-rose  oil  ll  drachms;  or,  bergamot 
oil  1 J  ozs.,  palma-rosa  oil  1  oz.,  lavender  oil  J  oz. 

Resin  pomade  No.  1. — Best  tallow  10  Ibs.,  yellow  wax 
2  Ibs.,  pale  resin  1  Ib.  Perfume:  Bergamot  oil  If  ozs., 
cassia  oil  14  drachms,  lavender  oil  11  drachms,  clove  oil 
8J  drachms,  thyme  oil  5J  drachms. 

Resin  pomade  No.  2. — Best  tallow  10  Ibs.,  yellow 
wax  2J  Ibs.,  pale  resin  1  Ib.,  Venetian  turpentine 
4  ozs.  Perfume :  Cassia  oil  2f  ozs.,  lavender  oil  1  oz., 
lemon-grass  oil  11  drachms,  clove  oil  and  thyme  oil  each 
5J  drachms. 

Cheap  resin  pomade. — Best  tallow  8J  Ibs..  pale  resin 
and  pale  ceresin  each  13  ozs.  Perfume:  Bergamot  oil 
3J  ozs.,  cassia  oil  9J  drachms,  thyme  oil  5  drachms;  or, 
Portugal  oil  2f  ozs.,  cassia  oil  1  oz.,  lavender  oil  5J 
drachms. 

HAIR  OILS. — Like  pomades,  hair  oils  are  perfumed 
either  with  volatile  oils  or  by  treatment  with  larger 
quantities  of  fresh  flowers.  The  oils  obtained  in  the 
latter  manner  are  known  as  Huiles  antiques,  and  are 
the  finest  and  most  expensive.  Vaseline  oil,  which  is 
cheap  and  does  not  become  rancid,  is  also  at  present 
much  used  as  hair  oil.  To  make  the  fat  oils  used  as 
hair  oils  more  durable  and  to  protect  them  from  becom- 
ing rancid,  they  are  also  treated  with  benzoin.  For 
this  purpose  digest  for  three  hours,  with  frequent  stir- 
ring, in  the  water-bath  100  Ibs.  of  the  oil  with  1  Ib.  of 


HA  IK   POMADES,    HAIE   OILS   AND   TONICS.        301 

pulverized  benzoin.  With  the  exception  of  alkannin 
for  red-colored  oil  and  chlorophyl  for  herb  oils,  no 
coloring  substances  are  used  for  hair  oils.  About  5J 
to  8J  drachms  of  perfume  are  required  for  1  Ib.  of  oil. 

The  Huiles  antiques  are  obtained  as  follows  : — 

Huile  antique  a  la  rose. — Extract  in  the  cold  1  Ib.  of 
fresh  rose  leaves  with  1  Ib.  of  best  olive  oil,  and  with 
the  oil  pressed  off,  extract,  six  times  in  succession,  equal 
quantities  of  fresh  leaves,  leaving  the  rose-leaves  each 
time  in  contact  with  the  oil  for  10  to  J  2  hours.  The 
oil,  when  sufficiently  perfumed,  is  filtered. 

Huile  antique  au  jasmin. — Extract  in  the  manner  above 
given  1  Ib.  of  fresh  jasmin  flowers  with  1  Ib.  of  olive  oil. 

In  the  same  manner  the  perfume  of  the  different 
flowers  can  be  withdrawn  and  utilized. 

A  number  of  receipts  for  the  most  popular  hair  oils 
are  here  given. 

Alpine  herb  oil. — Color  slightly  with  chlorophyl  10 
Ibs.  of  best  quality  of  olive  oil  and  perfume  with  pep- 
permint oil  2  ozs.,  lavender  oil  1  oz.,  caraway  oil  6J 
drachms. 

Flower  hair  oil. — Color  slightly  with  alkannin  10  Ibs. 
of  benzoated  olive  oil  of  best  quality,  and  perfume  with 
geranium  oil  2J  ozs.,  bergamot  oil  and  lavender  oil  each 
9  drachms,  petit-grain  oil  4|  drachms,  and  angelica  oil 
5  drops. 

Peruvian  bark  hair  oil. — Extract  for  some  time  1  Ib. 
of  pulverized  Peruvian  bark  with  10  Ibs.  of  strongly 
heated  benzoinized  olive  oil.  Then  color  the  oil  red 
with  alkannin,  and  when  cold,  perfume  with  bergamot 
oil  If  ozs.,  lemon  oil  14  drachms,  rose-geranium  oil  2J 
drachms,  neroli  oil  J  drachm,  and  cinnamon  oil  5  drops ; 


302  MANUFACTURE   OF   PERFUMERY. 

or,  with  bergamot  oil  2J  ozs.,  lemon  oil  1 J  oz.,  geranium 
oil  3 1  drachms. 

Peru  hair  oil. — Benzoated  olive  oil  10  Ibs.,  Peru 
balsam  3J  ozs.,  cassia  oil  11  drachms. 

Bwrdock  root  hair  oil  No.  1. — Digest  at  a  moderate 
heat  8  Ibs.  of  olive  oil  or  sesame  oil  with  2  Ibs.  of  fresh 
burdock  roots ;  then  pour  off  the  oil  from  the  roots,  add 
7  ozs.  of  castor  oil,  color  with,  alkannin,  and  perfume 
with  bergamot  oil  2  ozs.  and  palma-rose  oil  1  oz. 

Burdock  root  hair  oil  No.  2. — Color  10  Ibs.  of  ben- 
zoated  olive  oil  pale  green  with  chlorophyl,  and  per- 
fume with  bergamot  oil  2  ozs.,  geranium  oil  1J  ozs., 
and  lavender  oil  11  drachms. 

Macassar  hair  oil  No.  1. — Benzoated  olive  oil  10  Ibs., 
geranium  oil  and  lemon  oil  each  1J  ozs.,  cassia  oil  14 
drachms.  Color  red  with  alkannin. 

Macassar  oil  No.  2. — Benzoated  olive  oil  10  Ibs., 
colored  with  alkannin,  and  perfumed  with  bergamot  oil 
1}  ozs.,  lemon  oil  1 J  ozs.,  cinnamon  oil  1  drachm,  musk 
essence  1  drachm. 

Neroli  hair  oil. — Benzoated  olive  oil  10  Ibs.,  nerolin 
5J  drachms  dissolved  in  a  small  quantity  of  warm  oil, 
rose  oil  10  drops. 

Mignonette  hair  oil  No.  1. — Benzoated  olive  oil  10 
Ibs.,  cassia  oil  1J  ozs.,  geranium  oil  and  tolu -balsam 
tincture  each  11  drachms,  nerolin  1  drachm,  dissolved 
in  a  small  quantity  of  warm  oil. 

Mignonette  hair  oil  No.  2. — Benzoated  olive  oil  4 
Ibs.,  fat  mignonette  oil  3  Ibs.,  tolu-balsam  tincture 
3J  ozs. 

Fine  hair  oil. — Benzoated  olive  oil  10  Ibs.,  lemon 
oil  1J  ozs.,  bergamot  oil  15|  drachms,  lavender  oil  3f 


HAIR   POMADES,    HAIR   OILS    AND   TONICS.        303 

drachms,  neroli  oil  2f  drachms,  rosemary  oil  1J 
drachms,  petit-grain  oil  1  drachm. 

Cheap  hair  oil  (red  or  yellow). — Sesame  oil  or  purified 
colza  oil  lOlbs.,  bergamot  oil  2J  ozs.,  citronella  oil  1J 
ozs.,  mirbane  oil  10  drachms ;  or,  Portugal  oil  2f  ozs., 
cassia  oil  1  oz.,  lavender  oil  5J  drachms. 

Portugal  hair  oil. — Benzoated  olive  oil  10  Ibs.,  Por- 
tugal oil  2  ozs.,  bergamot  oil  1J  ozs.,  caraway  oil  3J 
drachms. 

Jasmine  hair  oil. — Benzoated  olive  oil  10  Ibs.,  fat 
jasmine  oil  1J  Ibs.,  bergamot  oil  If  ozs.,  clove  oil  11 
drachms,  rose-geranium  oil  4J  drachms,  neroli n  1 
drachm,  dissolved  in  a  small  quantity  of  warm  oil, 
thyme  oil  J  drachm. 

Vaseline  hair  oil  No.  1. — White  vaseline  oil  8  Ibs., 
white  olive  oil  2  Ibs.,  colored  red  with  alkannin,  berga- 
mot oil  1J  ozs.,  lavender  oil  and  lemon  oil  each  11 
drachms,  neroli  oil  5J  drachms. 

Vaseline  hair  oil  No.  2. — Yellow  vaseline  oil  8  Ibs., 
olive  oil  2  Ibs.,  cassia  oil  1 J  ozs.,  lemon-grass  oil  1  oz., 
clove  oil  J  oz. 

Vanilla  hair  oil. — Benzoated  olive  oil  10  Ibs.,  vanil- 
lin, dissolved  in  a  small  quantity  of  warm  oil,  and  Peru 
balsam,  each  5J  drachms,  bergamot  oil  1  drachm,  musk 
tincture  10  drops. 

Ylang-ylang  hair  oil. — Benzoated  olive  oil  5  Ibs., 
ylang-ylang  oil  2  drachms,  rose  oil  1  drachm,  neroli  oil 

10  drops. 

Philocome   hair  oil. — Melt   together  benzoated  olive 

011  and  yellow  wax  each   2   Ibs.,  and  when   about  half 
cold,  add  fat  orris-root  oil  and  fat  jasmine  oil,  each   1 J 
Ibs.,  rose-geranium  oil  1  drachm,  and  stir  until    cold. 


304  MANUFACTURE   OF    PERFUMERY. 

Sultana  hair  oil. — Benzoated  olive  oil  10  Ibs., 
colored  red  with  alkannin,  bergamot  oil  1 J  ozs.,  lavender 
oil  8  drachms,  cinnamon  oil  7  drachms,  neroli  oil  5J 
drachms,  geranium  oil  3J  drachms,  musk  tincture  1 
drachm. 

Rose  hair  oil. — Benzoated  olive  oil  10  Ibs.,  colored 
pale  red  with  alkannin,  geranium  oil  2  ozs.,  bergamot 
oil  1  oz.,  cassia  oil  14  drachms. 

Tonka  hair  oil. — Benzoated  olive  oil  10  Ibs.,  cumarin 

10  drachms,  dissolved  in  a  small  quantity  of  warm  oil. 
Violet   hair   oil.  —  Benzoated   olive  oil    10   Ibs.,   fat 

orris-root  oil  3  Ibs.,  bergamot  oil  6|  drachms,  clove  oil 
3J  drachms,  cinnamon  oil  1  drachm,  rose  oil  J  drachm. 

Victoria  hair  oil. — Benzoated  olive  oil  10  Ibs.,  slightly 
colored  with  alkannin,  palma-rose  oil,  lavender  oil,  and 
citronella  oil  each  1  oz.,  musk  tincture  1 J  drachms. 

Cheap  hair  oil  No.  1. — Sunflower  oil  500  drachms, 
bergamot  oil  3,  rosemary  oil  1,  lemon  oil  1,  neroli  and 
thyme  oil  each  J. 

Cheap  hair  oil  No.  2. — Sunflower  oil  500  drachms, 
lemon  oil  2,  rosemary  oil  3,  lavender  oil  5,  geranium 

011  1,  musk  tincture  J,  thyme  oil  1. 
BANDOLiNES.-^Baudolines  are  mucilaginous  liquids, 

and  are  prepared  from  substances  forming  mucilage, 
such  as  gum-tragacanth,  gum-arabic,  Japanese  gelatine, 
quince  seeds,  flaxseed,  etc.  Gum-arabic  adhering  very 
firmly,  its  use,  however,  cannot  be  recommended.  The 
substances  above  mentioned  are  heated  with  water  until 
the  mucilaginous  matter  is  extracted.  The  latter  is  then 
strained  through  a  cloth,  and  the  mucilaginous,  thick, 
transparent  liquid  thus  obtained  perfumed.  Volatile 


HAIR   POMADES,   HAIR  OILS   AND   TONICS.       305 

oils  dissolving  with  difficulty  in  the  liquid,  an  Extrait  is 
generally  used  for  perfuming,  or  an  aromatic  water  for 
dissolving  the  gums.  If  the  bandoline  is  tfc  be  colored, 
an  arumoniaral  carmine  solution  is  to  be  usell.  Aniline 
colors  should  not  be  employed  for,  the  purpose,  since 
they  precipitate  upon  the  scalp  arm  hair,  even  if  only 
traces  of  them  are  present. 

Bandolines  are  not  very  durable ;  their  keeping  pro- 
perties may,  however,  Jbjg  improved  by  the  addition  of 
benzoic  or  boric  acid. 

Rose  bandoline. — Gum-tragacanth  1  lb»,  rose  water 
71bs. 

Bring  the  pulverized  gum-tragacanth  into  a  suitable 
earthenware  or  enamelled  vessel,  pour  the  rose  water  over 
it,  and  let  it  stand  in  a  right  warm  place  until  by  the 
swelling  of  the  gum  a  thick  mucilage  is  formed.  If 
the  latter  is  to  remain  white,  it  is  first  strained  through 
a  coarse  linen  cloth  and  then  through  a  finer  one;  if, 
however,  the  bandoline  is  to  be  rose  color,  triturate  in  a 
mortar  1  to  1 J  drachms  of  best  carmine  with  as  little 
ammonia  as  possible,  and  distribute  this  coloring  matter 
in  the  mucilage.  For  the  reception  of  the  bandoline 
jars  with  a  sufficiently  wide  mouth  for  the  index  finger 
finger  to  reach  to  the  bottom  are  best.. 

Almond  bandoline. — Allow  5  Ibs.  of  rose  water  and 
1J  ozs.  of  quince  seed  to  stand,  with  frequent  shaking, 
for  24  hours.  Then  strain  and  perfume  with  2  drachms 
of  bitter  almond  oil. 

BRILLIANTINE. — Brilliantine  is  very  popular  for  giv- 
ing lustre  to  the  hair  of  the  head  and  the  beard,  and  in 
fact,  if  correctly  prepared,  it  has  many  advantages,  since, 
owing  to  its  composition,  it  considerably  decreases,  even 
20 


306  MANUFACTURE   OF   PERFUMERY. 

if  it  does  not  entirely  prevent,  the  formation  of  the  an- 
noying dandruff. 

Flower  brilliantine  No.  1. — Chemically  pure  glycerin 
1J  ozs.,  alcoholic  extract  No.  2  from  French-flower 
pomade  No.  24  10J  ozs.,  French  huile  antique  as  much 
as  required. 

Vigorously  shake  the  glycerin  and  alcoholic  pomade 
extract  in  a  glass  flask  until  a  uniform  fluid  is  formed, 
which  should  be  clear  as  water.  To  give  it,  however, 
an  oily  appearance,  carefully  mix  with  it  a  little  san- 
ders-wood  tincture  and  turmeric  tincture.  Fill  the 
brilliantine  glasses  half  full  with  the  above  mixture  and 
fill  up  the  glasses  with  French  huile  antique  of  the  same 
flower-perfume  as  the  respective  alcoholic  flower- 
pomade  extract,  but  do  not  shake,  this  being  done  only 
when  used. 

Owing  to  the  content  of  glycerin,  which,  as  well 
known,  is  non-volatile,  the  consumption  of  this  brillian- 
tine is  very  economical,  while  it  is  made  very  agreeable 
by  the  fine  French  flower  perfumes. 

If  it  is  desired  to  prepare  the  brilliantine  at  less  cost, 
pure  alcohol  may  be  substituted  for  the  pomade  extract 
and  any  perfumed  hair  oil  for  the  French  huile  antique. 

Brilliantine  No.  2. — For  brilliantine  of  quality  II,  the 
glasses  are  first  filled  half  full  with  perfumed  hair  oil 
and  then  filled  up  with  non-perfumed  alcohol  slightly 
colored  with  sanders-wood  tincture  or  turmeric  tincture. 
Glycerin  is  not  used,  and,  hence,  in  this  case  the  oil  will 
be  on  the  bottom  and  the  alcohol,  being  lighter,  on  top. 

This  brilliantine,  containing  no  glycerin,  is  not  so 
economical  as  the  preceding.  It  evaporates  quite  rapidly 
and  sometimes  makes  the  hair  hard,  especially  that  of 


HAIR   POMADES,    HAIR   OILS   AND   TONICS.        307 

persons  having  naturally  dry  hair.  However,  this  second 
quality  is  also  quite  popular  and  the  perfumer  must  satisfy 
the  demands  of  his  customers  as  much  as  possible. 

Brilliantine  No.  3. — Castor  oil  10  Ibs.,  pure  alcohol  5 
Ibs.,  Portugal  oil  7  ozs.,  clove  oil  If  ozs.,  petit-grain  oil 
1  oz.,  cassia  oil  1  oz.,  citronella  oil  11  drachms. 

Mix  the  alcohol  and  castor  oil  in  a  glass-flask,  then  add 
the  volatile  oils  and  shake  vigorously.  If  the  castor  oil 
is  pure  and  genuine,  it  forms  an  intimate  mixture  with 
the  alcohol ;  if,  on  the  other  hand,  traces  of  oil  appear 
on  the  surface  of  the  fluid,  the  castor  oil  is  adulterated 
with  other  fat  oils  and  unsuitable  for  this  purpose.  The 
castor  oil  should  also  be  as  fresh  as  possible  and,  under 
no  conditions,  rancid. 

If  this  brilliantine  is  desired  of  a  somewhat  yellowish 
color,  the  object  may  be  attained  by  the  addition  of 
sanders-wood  tincture  or  turmeric  tincture. 

That  this  brilliantine  is  of  an  inferior  quality  is  shown 
by  its  composition.  It  has  the  further  disadvantage 
that  it  plasters  the  hair,  especially  when  the  castor  oil 
becomes  old.  However,  there  are  consumers  with 
whom  this  quality  is  quite  popular. 

The  following  formulas  for  brilliantine  are  taken  from 
various  sources : — 

I.  Veal  fat  4  ozs.,  spermaceti  2  ozs.,  castor  oil  12  ozs., 
oil  of  bitter  almonds  1  drop,  oil  of  cloves  10  drops,  oil 
of  bergamot  20  drops.     Melt  together  the  first  three 
ingredients,  and  add  the  perfumes  when  nearly  cold. 

II.  Almond  oil  2J  Ibs.,  spermaceti  J  lb.,  oil  of  lemon 
3  ozs.     Melt  the  spermaceti  at  a  low  temperature ;  add 
the  oil  and  heat  until  all  flakes  disappear.     Let  the  jars 


308  MANUFACTURE   OF   PERFUMERY. 

into  which  it  is  to  be  poured  be  warm,  and  then  cool  as 
slowly  as  possible  to  insure  good  crystals. 

The  following,  although  somewhat  peculiar,  is  offered 
as  a  good  brill iantine  : — 

III.  Honey  1  fluid  oz.,  glycerin  and  Cologne  water 
each  J  fluid  oz.,  alcohol  2  fluid  ozs.  Mix. 

HAIR  TONICS. — Hair  tonics  serve  for  cleansing  and 
invigorating  the  scalp  and  for  preventing  the  hair  from 
falling  out.  Glycerin  having  a  beneficial  effect  upon  the 
scalp  is  much  used  as  one  of  the  constituents.  The  tonics 
also  frequently  contain  ingredients  said  to  promote  the 
growth  of  the  hair,  such  as  Peruvian  bark  extract,  qui- 
nine, tincture  of  cantharides,  and  substances  containing 
tannin.  Hair  tonics  containing  tincture  of  cantharides 
should,  however,  not  be  too  frequently  used,  as  other- 
wise an  excessive  stimulation  of  the  scalp  might  be  the 
result,  which  would  be  more  injurious  than  beneficial  to 
the  growth  of  the  hair. 

Some  receipts  for  hair  tonics  are  here  given. 

Eau  Athenienne. — Alcohol  of  best  quality  8  quarts, 
vanilla  tincture  1 J  lb.,  cumarin  tincture  7  ozs.,  bergamot 
oil  3J  ozs.,  rose-geranium  oil  11  drachms,  clove  oil  14 
drachms. 

After  8  days,  add  1  quart  of  rose  water  and  mix 
thoroughly. 

Florida  water  No.  1. — Alcohol  50  quarts,  best  laven- 
der oil  3  Ibs.,  bergamot  oil  1  lb.,  African  rose-geranium 
oil  J  lb.,  tinctures  of  sanders-wood  and  turmeric  each 
11  drachms,  distilled  water  16  quarts. 

The  alcohol,  volatile  oils,  and  tinctures  are  intimately 
mixed  in  a  glass  balloon,  then  allowed  to  stand  two  to 
three  weeks  when  the  distilled  water  is  added  and  the 


HAIR   POMADES,    HAIR   OILS   AND    TONICS.        309 

whole  vigorously  agitated.  After  adding  the  water  the 
fluid  becomes  very  turbid  and  requires  several  weeks  to 
clarify.  It  is  then  filtered  through  paper.  If,  notwith- 
standing filtering,  it  should  remain  somewhat  turbid, 
bring  a  small  quantity  of  carbonate  of  magnesia  upon 
the  filter. 

Florida  water  No.  2. — Alcohol  25  quarts,  lavender  oil 
7  ozs.,  palmarosa  oil  8  ozs.,  Portugal  oil  and  red  thyme 
oil  each  3|  ozs.,  tinctures  of  sanders-wood  and  turmeric 
each  5J  drachms,  rain-water  10  quarts. 

Proceed  in  the  same  manner  as  given  for  Florida 
water  No.  1. 

Eau  de  Cologne  hair  tonic. — Alcohol  8  quarts,  oils 
of  bergamot  and  lemons  each  1J  ozs.,  lavender  oil  11 
drachms,  rosemary  oil  5J  drachms,  glycerin  of  28°  B. 
3J  ozs.  After  8  days  add  7  ozs.  of  bicarbonate  of  soda 
dissolved  in  2J  quarts  of  distilled  water. 

Eau  de  quinine. — Alcohol  of  best  quality  20  quarts, 
tinctures  of  gall-nuts  and  Peruvian  bark  each  2  quarts, 
vanilla  tincture  1  quart,  bergamot  oil  7  ozs.,  African 
rose-geranium  oil  3J  ozs.,  clove  oil  14  drachms,  glycerin 
of  28°  B.  3  Ibs.,  Panama  wood  4  Ibs.,  boiled  with  filtered 
rain-water  12  quarts,  bicarbonate  of  soda  1  Ib.  dissolved 
in  1  quart  of  water. 

The  alcohol,  tinctures,  and  volatile  oils  are  brought 
into  a  glass  balloon  and  after  vigorous  agitation  allowed 
to  stand  8  days  for  the  volatile  oils  to  dissolve.  The 
decoction  of  Panama  wood  is  then  added,  next  the 
bicarbonate  of  soda  solution,  and  finally  the  whole  is 
thoroughly  agitated.  The  Panama-wood  decoction 
should  not  be  added  while  hot,  as  otherwise  the  glass 


310  MANUFACTURE   OF   PERFUMERY. 

balloon  might  burst.     Color  the  water  with  cochineal 
tincture  or  henna  tincture. 

Eau  de  quinine  (imitation). — Alcohol  25  quarts,  vanilla 
tincture  No.  2,  2  quarts,  Portugal  oil  1  lb.,  palmarosa 
oil  8  ozs.,  clove  oil  3J  ozs.,  glycerin  of  28°  B.  3  Ibs., 
Panama  wood  3  Ibs.,  boiled  in  rain-water  20  quarts, 
bicarbonate  of  soda  1  lb.,  dissolved  in  rain-water  1 
quart.  Proceed  in  the  manner  given  for  genuine  Eau 
de  quinine.  Color  with  henna  tincture. 

Honey  water. — Alcohol  of  best  quality  8  quarts,  orris- 
root  tincture  1  quart,  angelica  tincture  1  lb.,  tonka-bean 
extract  If  ozs.,  turmeric  tincture,  as  coloring  matter,  5J 
drachms,  Portugal  oil  7J  ozs.,  lemon  oil  1}  ozs.,  cit- 
ronella  oil  5J  drachms.  After  8  days  add  1  liter  of 
orange-flower  water. 

Glycerin  hair  tonic. — Glycerin  of  28°  B.  1  quart, 
borax  1  oz.,  rose  water  2  quarts,  alcohol  4  ozs.,  oils  of 
petit-grain  and  cloves  each  2  drachms,  rosemary  oil  4 
drachms. 

Dissolve  the  borax  in  the  water,  the  perfume  in  the 
alcohol,  and  mix  all  together.  It  should  be  clear.  Color 
yellow,  if  desired,  with  saffron  tincture. 

Eau  lustral  (hair  restorative). — Castor  oil  2  quarts,  lin- 
seed oil  and  tincture  of  cantharides  each  4  ozs.,  alcohol 
13  quarts,  bergamot  oil  2  ozs.,  lemon  oil  1  oz.,  clove  oil 
J  oz.,  neroli  oil  2  drachms. 

Mix  the  two  fat  oils  and  dissolve  them  in  the  alcohol 
by  agitation.  Then  add  the  tincture  of  cantharides  and 
the  perfumes,  and  color  red  with  cochineal  tincture  or 
henna  tincture. 

Tea  hair  tonic. — Bay  rum  2  ozs.,  glycerin  2  ozs.,  alco- 
hol 2  ozs.,  infusion  of  black  tea  10  ozs.  Mix  and  per- 


HAIR   OILS   AND   TONICS.        311 

fume  to  suit.  The  tea  infusion  should  be  made  very 
strong,  say  1  oz.  of  best  tea  (best  quality)  to  10  ozs.  of 
boiling  water,  let  stand  till  cool,  strain,  and  add  the 
other  ingredients. 

Locock's  lotion  for  the  hair. — Expressed  oil  of  nutmeg 
5  fluid  ozs.,  olive  oil  and  stronger  water  of  ammonia 
each  20  fluid  ozs.,  spirit  of  rosemary  40  fluid  ozs.,  rose 
water  sufficient  to  make  20  pints.  The  above  should 
be  mixed  with  skill,  best  by  gradually  pouring  the  com- 
bined oils,  with  constant  stirring,  into  the  stronger  water 
of  ammonia,  previously  diluted  with  the  spirit,  and  after- 
wards slowly  incorporating  the  rose  water. 

Shampoo  lotion. — New  England  rum  1  pint,  bay  rum 
12  ozs.,  glycerin  2  ozs.,  carbonate  of  ammonium  1  oz., 
borax  2  ozs. 

Shampoo  liquid. — The  readiest  agent  to  produce  a  good 
lather  upon  the  hair  of  the  head  is  a  solution  of  potassa 
or  soda  or  a  dilute  wrater  of  ammonia.  The  latter,  how- 
ever, owing  to  its  penetrating  odor,  is  not  usually  liked. 

The  following  combinations  will  be  found  service- 
able : — 

I.  Solution  of  potassa  4  fluid  ozs.,  borax  1  oz.,  bay 
rum  J  fluid  oz.,  tincture  of  quillaga  J  fluid  oz.,  water 
enough   to  make   16   fluid  ozs.     This  may  be  scented 
according  to  taste. 

II.  Fresh  eggs  3,  spirit  of  soap  1J  fluid  ozs.,  carbo- 
nate of  potassium  160  grains,  water  of  ammonia  160 
drops,  oil-sugar  of  cumarin  8  grains,  oils  of  rose  and 
bergamot  each  2  drops,  French  geranium  oil  1  drop, 
almond  oil  1  drop,  rose  water  27  fluid  ozs.     Thoroughly 
beat  the  3  eggs,  and  then  dilute  with  the  rose  water. 
Then  add  the  other  ingredients. 


312  MANUFACTURE   OF   PERFUMERY. 

Oil-sugar  of  cumarin  is  prepared  by  triturating  1  part 
of  cumarin  with  999  parts  of  sugar  of  milk. 

Dandruff  cures. — I.  Ointment  of  nitrate  of  mercury 
1  drachm,  petrolatum  7  drachms.  Mix.  Cut  the  hair 
short  and  keep  well  brushed,  and  apply  the  ointment 
every  night  for  a  fortnight. 

II.  Red  oxide  of  mercury   10   grains,   ammoniated 
mercury  10  grains,  petrolatum  1   oz.     Mix,  and  apply 
every  night. 

III.  Corrosive  sublimate  30  grains,  glycerin  5  fluid 
ozs.,  Cologne  water  5  fluid  oz?.,  water  sufficient  to  make 
15  fluid  ozs.     Mix  to  make  lotion  No.  1. 

Beta  naphthol  120  grains,  alcohol  20  fluid  ozs.  Mix 
to  make  lotion  No.  2. 

Salicylic  acid  120  grains,  compound  tincture  of  ben- 
zoin 20  fluid  drachms,  olive  oil  10  fluid  ozs.  Mix  to 
make  lotion  No.  3. 

Wash  the  head  thoroughly  with  terebene  soap,  rinse 
well,  and  dry  thoroughly ;  then  rub  in  some  of  solution 
No.  1  and  allow  to  dry,  then  use  No.  2  in  a  like  manner, 
and  finally  apply  No.  3.  The  treatment  should  be  carried 
out  daily  for  a  month,  and  then  every  alternate  day  for  a 
fortnight.  The  dandruff  disappears  in  a  few  days,  and 
the  hair  in  a  short  time  becomes  vigorous  and  supple. 

Dandruff  lotion. — Chloral  hydrate  1  drachm,  glycerin 
4  drachms,  bay  rum  8  ozs. 

Bay  rum. — Genuine  bay  rum,  as  brought  into  com- 
merce from  St.  Thomas,  is  said  to  be  prepared  by  twice 
distilling  a  fine  quality  of  rum  with  the  leaves  and  berries 
of  Myrcia  acris  or  the  bay-berry  tree.  The  berries  are 
much  richer  in  volatile  oil  than  the  leaves,  but  on  account 
of  the  height  of  the  trees,  the  gathering  of  the  berries 


HAIR   OILS   AND   TONICS.        313 

is  connected  with  so  many  difficulties  and  the  harvest  so 
scanty,  that  the  manufacturers  prefer  to  mix  leaves  and 
berries  in  a  certain  proportion. 

The  following  directions  for  preparing  bay  rum  are 
given  in  Schimmel  &  Co.'s  reports : — 

I.  Alcohol  of  95  per  cent.  4  Ibs.,  water  4  Ibs.,  bay  oil 
5J  drachms,  pimento  oil  2J  drachms,  clove  oil  10  drops. 
Mix,  let  stand  for  several  days  and  filter. 

II.  Alcohol   of  95   per  cent.    4   Ibs.,   bay   oil   15 
drachms. 

Mix,  let  stand  for  2  weeks,  and  then  add  8  Ibs.  of  best 
Jamaica  rum.  This  bay  rum  is  said  to  be  equal  to  the 
imported. 

Another  receipt  for  bay  rum  is  as  follows : — 

III.  Alcohol  of  95  per  cent.  1  quart,  rectified  spirit 
of  60  per  cent.  14  quarts,  bay  oil  1  oz.,  loaf  sugar  4  ozs. 

Beat  up  the  sugar  with  the  oil  and  add  the  alcohol ; 
then  the  spirit,  and  finally  filter. 

Mierzinski  gives  the  following  formulae  for  bay 
rum : — 

IV.  Alcohol  8  ozs.,  oil  of  bay  40  drops,  oil  of  mace 
1   grain,  oil  of  orange  20  drops,  Jamaica  rum  1   oz., 
water  enough  to  make  16  ozs.    Digest  2  or  3  weeks,  and 
filter  through  magnesia. 

V.  Alcohol  8  ozs.,  oil  of  bay  2  drachms,  oil  of  cloves 
1   drop,  mace  20  grains,  water  warmed  to  80°  F.  to 
make  12  ozs.     Dissolve  the  oils  in  the  alcohol,  digest 
the  mace  in  the  solution  for  a  few  days,  filter  and  add 
the  water.     The  whole  is  allowed  to  stand,  with  occa- 
sional agitation,  for  several  days,  and  filtered  through 
magnesia. 

VI.  Jamaica  rum  36  ozs.,  95  per  cent,  alcohol  36  ozs., 


314  MANUFACTURE   OF   PERFUMERY. 

oil  of  bay  J  oz.,  oil  of  pimento   1  drop,  acetic  ether  4 
drops.     Allow  to  stand  at  least  3  weeks  before  using. 

HAIR  DYES. — The  requirements  of  a  good  hair-dye 
are  that  it  can  be  readily  applied,  that  it  contains  no  inju- 
rious substances,  and  that  the  coloration  be  as  natural 
and  durable  as  possible.  These  demands  are  difficult  to 
fulfil,  and  it  cannot  be  said  that  there  is  one  of  the 
ordinary  hair  dyes  which  in  every  respect  conies  up  to 
them.  Black  hair  dyes  give  the  most  natural  colora- 
tion, but  the  peculiar  shade  of  blue-black  hair  cannot 
be  imitated.  The  medium  colors,  light  brown  and 
blonde,  are  the  least  natural.  Most  dyes  allow  of  rapid 
coloration,  though,  in  order  to  make  the  deception  more 
complete,  a  gradual  coloration  is  by  many  persons  pre- 
ferred. Such  gradual,  though  only  very  slightly  darker 
coloration,  is  attained  by  the  use  of  hair  oils  and  cer- 
tain animal  fats  containing  a  slight  content  of  sulphur 
or  iron,  such  as  freshly  expressed  egg  oil  and  neat's-foot 
oil.  It  was  formerly  believed  that  egg  oil,  if  used  in 
time,  would  even  prevent  the  hair  from  turning  gray. 
The  gradual  darkening  of  the  hair  may  also  be  effected 
by  agents,  which  are  converted  into  colored  combina- 
tions only  by  the  atmospheric  oxygen  or  the  content  of 
sulphur  in  the  hair,  such  as  extract  from  nut  shells, 
tannin,  pyrogallic  acid  and  many  metals,  the  latter 
chiefly  in  the  form  of  pomades  or  hair  oil.  Dilute  acids 
used  for  some  time  make  the  hair  somewhat  lighter. 
Mothers  wishing  to  keep  the  hair  of  their  children 
blonde,  avoid  oils,  and  frequently  wash  the  heads  of  the 
children  with  vinegar  or  lemon  juice.  No  coloration  is, 
however,  durable  ;  it  becomes  in  the  course  of  time 

vv  e^,/:  |  x 
w 


HAIR   POMADES,    HAIR   OILS   AND   TONICS.       315 

gradually  weaker,  and  the  new  growth  of  hair  always 
requires  after-coloration. 

For  dyeing  the  hair  metallic  salts  are  chiefly  employed. 
Owing  to  their  poisonous  action  the  use  of  lead  salts 
for  the  purpose  is  prohibited  in  some  countries,  for 
instance,  in  Germany  and  Austria.  Silver  is  used  in 
the  form  of  nitrate  of  silver  (lunar  caustic).  In  the 
presence  of  organic  substances,  as  well  as  under  the  in- 
fluence of  light,  this  combination  is  reduced,  metallic 
silver  in  small  black  grains  being  separated.  Silver 
salts  also  give  a  black  precipitate  of  silver  sulphide  with 
sulphuretted  hydrogen.  By  simply  moistening  the  hair 
with  silver  solution  they  become  brown  to  brown-black, 
the  coloration  appearing  more  rapidly  by  previously 
treating  the  hair  with  pyrogallic  acid,  or,  after  the  ap- 
plication of  the  silver  solution,  with  sulphydrate  of 
sodium  or  potassium.  The  colorations  produced  with 
nitrate  of  silver  are  very  durable,  but,  if  not  dyed  again 
for  some  time,  the  hair  acquires  a  greenish  or  reddish 
color,  this  being  especially  the  case  if  they  were  not 
sufficiently  freed  from  fat  before  dyeing.  For  freeing 
the  hair  from  fat,  wash  the  hair  with  a  mixture  of  1  part 
spirit  of  sal  ammonia  in  10  parts  of  brandy,  and  dry 
carefully. 

Copper  salts  with  certain  substances,  such  as  potassium 
ferrocyanide  solution,  potassium  sulphydrate,  calcium 
sulphydrate,  and  pyrogallic  acid  give  dark-brown  colora- 
tions. Of  the  copper  salts,  the  sulphate  in  ammoniacal 
solution  is  most  frequently  employed,  though  occasion- 
ally also  the  chloride.  These  salts  give  a  beautiful 
brown  color  to  the  hair.  Small  quantities  of  copper  salt 
are  also  frequently  added  to  the  actual  black  dyes ;  the 


316  MANUFACTURE   OF   PERFUMERY. 

hair  by  this  means  acquiring  a  brown-black,  instead  of  a 
deep  black  color. 

All  the  iron  salts,  with  the  exception  of  the  chloride*, 
may  be  used  for  dyeing  the  hair.  Soluble  iron  salts  by 
themselves  make  the  hair  somewhat  darker,  but  this 
slow,  natural  process  is  not  relied  on,  and  a  second  sub- 
stance forming  dark  colored  combinations  with  the  iron, 
such  as  sulphur,  tannin,  or  pyrogallic  acid,  is,  as  a  rule, 
employed.  To  this  class  belongs  a  Turkish  hair  dye, 
which,  according  to  X.  Landerer,  is  prepared  as  follows : 
Gall-nuts  converted  to  a  fine  powder  are  mixed  with  oil 
and  roasted  in  a  pan  until  no  more  empyreumatic  vapors 
and  odor  are  evolved.  The  black  powder  thus  obtained 
is  made  into  a  paste  with  water,  and  into  it  is  stirred  a 
finely  pulverized  mass  prepared  from  ferrous  oxide, 
copper,  and  antimony,  the  result  being  a  deep  black 
mass.  This  dye  is  called  Rastikopetra  (eyebrow- 
stone).  It  is  one  of  the  Oriental  cosmetics  used  by 
both  men  and  women. 

Potassium  permanganate  solution  is  reduced  by  or- 
ganic substances,  peroxide  of  manganese  being  formed. 
A  concentrated  solution  of  this  salt  imparts  to  the  hair 
and  skin  an  intense  brown  color,  which,  however,  is  not 
very  durable,  and  requires  frequent  renewing. 

Pyrogallic  add  may  be  used  for  darkening  the  hair, 
not  only  in  combination  with  metallic  substances,  but 
also  by  itself,  or  with  alkalies.  Hair  moistened  with 
pyrogallic  acid  becomes  under  the  influence  of  light  and 
air  dark  gray  to  blackish.  However,  the  color  is  not 
handsome,  and  appears  only  in  the  course  of  weeks.  In 
connection  with  alkalies,  pyrogallic  acid  produces  a  red- 
brown  to  black-brown  coloration. 


317 

Under  the  name  of  Kohol,  an  extremely  fine  powder, 
consisting  of  black  sulphide  of  antimony,  is  used  in 
Egypt  by  all  classes  for  blackening  the  edges  of  the  eye- 
lids and  the  eyebrows. 

A  hair  dye,  much  used  in  the  Orient,  is  henna,  the 
dried  and  pulverized  leaves  of  Lawsonia  inermis.  By 
the  women  this  powder  is  used  for  coloring  the  hair  and 
nails  red-brown.  In  the  Turkish  sweating  baths  the 
attendants  scatter  the  henna  upon  the  hair  of  the  women 
and  tie  it  upon  the  finger  nails.  The  women  then  fre- 
quently remain  for  hours  in  the  steam  bath,  whereby  the 
powdered  henna  is  converted  into  an  extract-like  mass 
which  colors  hair  and  nails  red-brown.  It  is  said  that 
henna  even  colors  the  coal-black  hair  of  the  Arabs  red- 
brown,  which  is  considered  beautiful.  Before  treating 
with  henna,  the  hair  must  be  freed  from  fat  with  soap 
or  fuller's  earth. 

Hair  dyed  red  with  henna  acquires  a  beautiful  black 
color  when  subsequently  treated  with  indigo,  this  mode 
of  dyeing  black  being  much  in  vogue  in  the  Orient. 
The  process  is  as  follows :  The  hair,  being  freed  from 
fat  with  soap,  is  divided  into  separate  strands  and 
anointed  with  quite  a  stiif  paste  prepared  from  pulver- 
ized henna  and  lukewarm  water.  The  hair,  after  t>eing 
smoothed,  is  allowed  to  remain  for  at  least  one  hour  in 
contact  with  the  paste,  and  is  then  rinsed  off  with  luke- 
warm water.  Being  slightly  dried,  it  is  then  in  the 
same  manner  anointed  with  a  paste  prepared  from  indigo 
and  water,  and  allowed  to  remain  in  contact  with  it  for 
one  hour.  The  hairs  which  were  colored  orange-red  by 
the  henna,  now  have  a  greenish-black  appearance,  but 
by  the  oxidation  of  the  indigo  in  a  short  time  acquire  an 


318  MANUFACTURE   OF   PERFUMERY. 

intensely  blue-black  color,  which  is  extraordinarily 
durable,  the  hair  only  after  several  months  requiring  to 
be  again  dyed. 

The  freshly  expressed  juice  and  the  fresh  parenchyma 
of  green  walnut  shells,  or  of  unripe  walnuts,  gradually 
color  light  or  gray  hair  dark  to  nut-brown.  The  color- 
ing substance  is  not  thoroughly  known,  but  is  very 
likely  a  phloroglucide ;  it  is  extracted  by  fats  and  alcohol, 
but,  according  to  Paschkis,  is  no  longer  effective  in  such 
solution.  This,  however,  is  not  correct  in  regard  to  the 
alcoholic  extract,  because  the  extract  from  ordinary  wal- 
nut shells,  prepared  by  mixing  the  expressed  juice  of 
green  walnut  shells  with  10  parts  of  alcohol,  allowing 
the  mixture  to  stand  for  ten  days,  and  then  filtering, 
also  colors  brown. 

Peroxide  of  hydrogen  bleaches  organic  substances, 
dark  or  red  hair  being  thereby  changed  to  reddish-yel- 
low or  pale  blonde.  The  coloration,  or  rather  bleaching, 
does  not  appear  at  once,  but  is  complete  only  after  some 
time.  The  peroxide  of  hydrogen  only  exists  in  aqueous 
solution,  which  should  be  quite  concentrated  (15  to  20 
per  cent.).  Owing  to  the  mode  of  preparation,  the  solu- 
tion always  contains  some  nitric  acid  and  readily  de- 
composes, when  exposed  to  light  and  air,  whereby  it 
becomes  useless. 

In  the  following,  a  number  of  formulae  for  hair-dyes 
are  given.  According  to  their  constitution,  they  may 
be  divided  into  two  groups,  viz  :  A.  Dyes  which  con- 
tain the  coloring  matter  in  a  finished  state;  and,  B. 
Dyes  which  are  formed  upon  the  hair  by  a  chemical 
process.  The  dye  should  first  be  applied  in  a  dilute 
state,  and  the  application  repeated  in  case  the  desired 


HAIR   POMADES,    HAIR   OILS    AND    TONICS.        319 

shade  is  not  produced,  since  by  the  use  of  the  dye  in  a 
concentrated  form  a  shade  not  resembling  any  natural 
color  might  be  obtained,  hair  which  is  to  be  colored 
black  acquiring,  for  instance,  a  metallic  blue-black 
lustre. 

A.  SINGLE  HAIR  DYES.  Teinture  Orientale  (Karsi). — 
Ambergris  2}  drachms,  gall-nuts  4  Ibs.,  pulverized  iron 
1}  ozs.,  pulverized  copper  1  drachm,  musk  1  drachm. 
Convert  the  gall-nuts  to  a  fine  powder,  and  roast  the 
powder  in  an  iron  pan,  stirring  constantly  until  it  is 
dark  brown  to  blackish.  Rub  the  powder  together 
with  the  metallic  powders,  and  the  perfume  substances 
and  keep  the  mixture  in  a  damp  place.  For  use  moisten 
some  of  the  powder  upon  the  hand  and  apply  to  the 
hair,  rubbing  it  in  vigorously.  In  a  few  days  the  hair 
acquires  a  deep  black,  quite  natural  color.  In  roasting, 
the  tannin-substances  contained  in  the  gall-nuts  are  con- 
verted into  gallic  and  pyrogallic  acids,  which  yield  with 
the  metals  combinations  of  a  deep  black  color,  and  are 
even  readily  converted  into  black-brown  bodies  (humin 
bodies). 

Teinture  Chinoise  (Kohol). — Gum-arabic  1  oz.,  Chinese 
ink  If  ozs.,  rose-water  1  quart.  Reduce  the  gum- 
arabic  and  Chinese  ink  to  fine  powder,  and  triturate 
the  powder  in  small  quantities  with  rose  water  until  a 
homogeneous  black  fluid  free  from  grains  is  formed. 
Collect  this  fluid  in  a  bottle  and  mix  it  with  the  re- 
maining rose  water.  Kohol  is  only  suitable  for  persons 
with  black  hair  and  is  especially  used  for  dyeing  the  eye- 
brows. The  coloring  matter  of  this  preparation  con- 
sisting only  of  carbon  in  a  very  finely  divided  state,  it 
is  perfectly  harmless. 


320  MANUFACTURE   OF   PERFUMERY. 

Potassium  permanganate  hair  dye.  —  Potassium  per- 
manganate 5  ozs.,  distilled  water  2  quarts.  Crystallized 
potassium  permanganate  dissolves  with  great  ease  in 
water  to  a  deep  violet  fluid.  By  bringing  the  solution 
in  contact  with  an  organic  substance — paper,  linen,  skin, 
horn,  hair — it  rapidly  discolors,  imparting  to  the  sub- 
stances a  brown  color,  which  originates  from  peroxide  of 
manganese.  Free  the  hair  from  fat  by  washing,  and 
apply  the  dilute  solution  with  a  soft  brush.  The  color 
appears  immediately,  and  according  to  the  degree  of 
dilution,  all  shades  of  color  from  blonde  to  darkest 
brown  may  be  produced  with  this  perfectly  harmless 
agent.  It  may,  of  course,  also  be  used  for  dyeing  the 
beard. 

Bismuth  hair  dye. — Subnitrate  of  bismuth  10  parts, 
10  per  cent,  solution  of  potassa  and  citric  acid  each  a 
sufficient  quantity,  glycerin  150  parts,  water  sufficient 
to  make  300  parts.  Intimately  mix  the  subnitrate  of 
bismuth  and  the  glycerin  by  trituration,  then  heat  the 
mixture  in  a  water-bath,  and  gradually  add  to  it  solu- 
tion of  potassa,  under  constant  stirring,  until  the  bis- 
muth salt  is  dissolved.  Next  add  a  concentrated  solution 
of  citric  acid  until  only  a  slight  alkalinity  remains. 
Finally  add  enough  water  to  make  300  parts,  and  per- 
fume according  to  preference. 

Walnut  hair  dye. — Bruise  40  parts  of  fresh  green 
walnut  peel  with  5  parts  of  alum,  digest  with  200  parts 
of  olive  oil  until  all  moisture  has  been  dissipated,  strain 
and  perfume  the  oil  according  to  preference. 

Pyrogallic  hair  stain. — Pyrogallic  acid  J  oz.,  water  3 
ozs.,  alcohol  1  oz.  This  liquid  gives  a  dark  brown 
color. 


HAIR   POMADES,    HAIR   OILS   AND   TONICS.        321 

B.  -DOUBLE  HAIR  DYES. — These  and  similar  hair 
dyes  consist  of  two  preparations,  kept  in  bottles  I  and  II. 
The  bottle  II,  which  serves  for  the  reception  of  the  silver 
preparation,  must  be  of  blue  or  black  glass,  since  silver 
salts  are  decomposed  by  light.  For  use,  pour  some  of 
the  fluid  in  bottle  I  into  a  cup,  and  moisten  the  hair 
with  it  by  means  of  a  soft  brush.  Then  pour  the  fluid 
in  bottle  II  into  another  cup,  and  apply  it  with  another 
brush. 

For  dyeing  brown.  I  (in  the  white  bottle). — Liver  of 
sulphur  7  ozs.,  alcohol  1  quart.  II  (in  the  dark  bottle). 
Nitrate  of  silver  4  ozs.,  distilled  water  1  quart. 

For  dyeing  black.  I  (in  the  white  bottle). — Liver  of 
sulphur  8  ozs.,  alcohol  1  quart.  II  (in  the  dark  bottle). 
— Nitrate  of  silver  5  ozs.,  distilled  water  1  quart. 

Liver  of  sulphur  is  a  leather-brown  mass,  readily 
soluble  in  water.  The  solution  has  to  be  filtered  before 
it  is  brought  into  the  bottles.  By  bringing  the  solutions 
together  black  sulphide  of  silver  is  formed,  which  effects 
the  dark  coloration  of  the  hair.  After  using  the  dye,  a 
disagreeable  odor  of  stale  eggs  adheres  to  the  hair,  which 
is,  however,  readily  removed  by  washing. 

The  silver  hair  dyes  may  also  be  made  by  preparing 
the  fluid  in  bottle  II  as  follows  :  Add  drop  by  drop  water 
of  ammonia  to  the  silver  nitrate,  kept  constantly  agitated 
until  the  precipitate  formed  is  redissolved. 

Tannin  hair  dye.  I  (in  the  white  bottle). — Pulverized 
gall-nuts  14  ozs.,  water  16  ozs.,  rose  water  16  ozs.  Boil 
the  gall-nuts  in  the  water,  strain  the  boiling  fluid  through 
a  close  cloth  into  the  rose  water,  and  bring  the  fluid  thus 
obtained,  while  still  hot,  into  the  bottles,  which  should  be 
immediately  closed.  (It  is  absolutely  necessary  to  bring 
21 


322  MANUFACTURE   OF   PERFUMERY. 

the  fluid  hot  into  the  bottles,  as  otherwise  mould  is  readily 
formed.)  II  (in  the  dark  bottle). — Nitrate  of  silver  5 
ozs.,  distilled  water  1  quart.  Add  water  of  ammonia  to 
the  silver  solution  until  the  precipitate  at  first  formed  is 
redissolved. 

Melanog&ne.  I  (in  the  dark  bottle). — Nitrate  of  silver 
5J  drachms,  distilled  water  2|  ozs.,  water  of  ammonia 

I  oz.      II  (in   the  white   bottle). — Pyrogallic   acid   J 
drachm,  40  per  cent,  spirit  of  wine  17  ozs. 

Eau  d'Afrique.  I  (in  the  dark  bottle). — Nitrate  of 
silver  1J  drachms,  distilled  water  3J  ozs.  II  (in  the 
white  bottle). — Sodium  sulphide  4J  drachms,  distilled 
water  3J  ozs. 

Krinochrom.  I  (in  the  white  bottle). — Pyrogallic 
acid  5|  drachms,  distilled  water  6J  ozs.,  alcohol  5J  ozs. 

II  (in  the  dark  bottle).     Nitrate  of  silver  6J  drachms, 
water  of  ammonia  2  ozs.,  distilled  water  10  J  ozs. 

Copper  hair  dye.  I  (in  the  white  bottle). — Potassium 
ferrocyanide  (yellow  prussiate  of  potash)  7  ozs.,  dis- 
tilled water  1  quart.  II  (in  the  dark  bottle). — Cupric 
sulphate  (blue  vitriol)  7  ozs.,  distilled  water  1  quart. 
Add  to  the  cupric  sulphate  solution  water  of  ammonia 
until  the  pale  blue  precipitate  at  first  formed  is  dissolved 
to  a  beautiful  dark  blue  fluid.  This  hair  dye  gives  a  dark 
brown  color,  but  great  care  has  to  be  exercised  in  its 
use,  the  yellow  prussiate  of  potash  being  very  poisonous. 

DEPILATORIES. — While  the  number  of  agents  for  pro- 
moting the  growth  of  the  hair  is  a  very  small  one,  and 
their  efficacy  not  above  doubt,  there  are,  on  the  other 
hand,  quite  a  number  of  very  effective  agents  for 
the  removal  of  hair,  sulphur  combinations  being  most 
frequently  used  for  the  purpose.  Rhusma  is  a  depila- 


HAIR    POMADES,    HAIR   OILS    AND    TONICS.        323 

tory  which  has  long  been  known,  and  is  still  almost 
exclusively  used  in  the  Orient.  It  consists  of  1  part 
orpiment  and  6  parts  of  lime  slaked  to  a  powder.  Mix 
intimately  by  passing  the  ingredients  through  a  sieve, 
and  preserve  the  mixture  in  tightly-closed  vessels.  For 
use,  stir  some  of.  the  powder  to  a  paste  with  water,  and 
apply  it  to  the  place  upon  which  the  hairs  are  to  be 
destroyed.  As  soon  as  the  layer  of  paste  begins  to  dry 
remove  it  with  a  thin  shaving  of  wood.  Owing  to  the 
energetic  action  of  this  depilatory  upon  the  skin,  ladies 
are  advised  not  to  use  it  for  the  face. 

Combinations  of  sulphur  with  the  alkalies  and  alka- 
line earths  are  much  used  as  depilatories.  Of  these, 
sodium  sulphydrate,  however,  should  never  be  used,  with- 
out the  advice  of  a  physician,  as  it  acts  very  energetically 
upon  the  skin,  and  frequently  leaves  scars  behind.  Cal- 
cium sulphide  is  contained  in  Boettger's  depilatory.  It 
is  usually  prepared  by  heating  at  a  low  red  heat  in  a 
securely -closed  crucible  an  intimate  mixture  of  100 
parts  of  finely-powdered  quicklime  with  90  parts  of 
precipitated  sulphur.  Of  the  calcium  sulphide  thus  ob- 
tained, mix  1  Ib.  with  8  ozs.  of  starch  and  7  drachms  of 
lemon  oil.  Apply  the  paste  to  the  place  upon  which 
the  hairs  are  to  be  destroyed,  allowing  it  to  remain  20 
to  30  seconds.  The  action  of  barium  sulphide,  which 
is  frequently  used  as  a  depilatory,  is  much  less  energetic 
than  that  of  calcium  sulphide.  It  is,  for  instance,  a 
constituent  of  Bartholow's  depilatory,  which  consists  of 
barium  sulphide  1  part,  caustic  lime  1  part,  and  starch 
2  parts,  made  into  a  paste  with  alcohol. 


324  MANUFACTURE  OF   PERFUMERY. 


CHAPTER  XIII. 

COSMETICS. 

UNDER  this  heading  will  be  considered  toilet  vinegars, 
washes,  perfumed  powders,  pastes,  skin  pomades,  as  well 
as  paints. 

The  fabrication  of  cosmetics  is  an  important  branch 
of  perfumery.  The  materials  used  for  the  purpose 
should  be  selected  and  of  good  quality  even  for  cheap 
articles,  which  are,  of  course,  also  represented  in  the  fol- 
lowing receipts. 

SKIN  COSMETICS. — Toilet  vinegars. — Perfumed  vine- 
gars, when  added  to  wash  water,  have  a  refreshing  effect 
and  are  also  used  as  fumigating  agents  by  mixing  them 
with  water  in  a  dish  and  placing  the  latter  in  the  room. 

Vinaigre  de  Bully. — Alcohol  of  best  quality  10  quarts, 
tinctures  of  orris  root,  tolu  balsam,  benzoin  and  storax, 
each  1  lb.,  olibanum  tincture  J  lb.,  vanilla  tincture  and 
best  lavender  oil  5J  ozs.,  bergamot  oil  and  lemon  oil 
each  4J  ozs.,  acetic  acid  2  Ibs. 

Vinaigre  de  toilette  d  la  rose. — Alcohol  of  best  quality 
5  quarts,  benzoin  tincture  1  lb.,  angelica  tincture  8  ozs., 
extrait  rose  No.  1,  1  lb.,  French  rose  geranium  oil  3J 
ozs.,"  acetic  acid  14  ozs. 

Vinaigre  de  toilette  d  la  violette. — Alcohol  of  best 
quality  5  quarts,  orris-root  tincture  2  quarts,  tinctures 
of  benzoin  and  storax  each  7  ozs.,  bergamot  oil  2J  ozs., 
liquid  orris-root  oil*  11  drachms,  acetic  acid  1  lb. 

*  See  foot-note,  p.  257. 


COSMETICS.  325 

Vinaigre  de  toilette  heliotrope. — Alcohol  of  best  quality 
5  quarts,  tinctures  of  orris  root  and  vanilla  each  1  quart, 
musk  root  tincture  3J  ozs.,  benzoin  tincture  1  Ib.,  berga- 
mot  oil  If  pzs.,  verbena  oil  and  palma-rosa  oil  each  14 
drachms,  clove  oil  8J  drachms,  acetic  acid  1  Ib. 

Vinaigre  de  toilette  orange. — Alcohol  of  best  quality 
5  quarts,  benzoin  tincture  10J  ozs.,  abelmosk  tincture 
and  vitivert  tincture  each  8  ozs.,  civet  tincture  14 
drachms,  Portugal  oil  8  ozs.,  acetic  acid  14  ozs. 

Vinaigre  de  toilette. — Alcohol  of  best  quality  10  quarts, 
orris-root  tincture  1|  Ibs.,  tinctures  of  benzoin,  tolu  bal- 
sam and  angelica  each  1  Ib.,  French  rose-geranium  oil 
1}  ozs.,  bergamot  oil  4J  ozs.,  lemon  oil  and  lavender  oil 
each  3J  ozs.,  neroli  oil  8J  drachms,  best  rosemary  oil  11 
drachms,  peppermint  oil  5J  drachms,  acetic  acid  2  Ibs. 

Aromatic  vinegar. — Tincture  of  benzoin  1  oz.,  alcohol 
1 J  oz.,  acetic  ether  and  extract  of  jasmine  each  1J  ozs., 
acetic  acid  3J  ozs.,  oil  of  rose  10  drops,  oils  of  neroli  and 
wintergreen  each  5  drops. 

English  aromatic  vinegar. — Crystallized  acetic  acid  20 
ozs.,  camphor  2  ozs.,  oil  of  lavender  10  drops,  oil  of 
cloves  30  drops,  oil  of  cinnamon  15  drops.  Mix  and 
dissolve. 

The  preparation  is  used  for  smelling-bottles.  The 
vials  are  first  filled  with  sulphate  of  potassa  in  small 
crystals,  and  enough  acetic  acid  is  added  to  thoroughly 
moisten  the  salt.  The  use  of  sulphate  of  potassa  is 
said  to  have  originated  from  the  fact,  that  the  acid  mix- 
ture was  formerly  obtained  by  introducing  into  the 
vials  acetate  of  potassa  and  a  sufficiency  of  sulphuric 
acid.  Whether  this  be  true  or  not,  sulphate  of  potassa 


326  MANUFACTURE   OF   PERFUMERY. 

constitutes  an  excellent  medium  for  retaining  the  liquid 
in  the  bottle.  It  acts  simply  as  an  incorrodible  sponge. 

Toilet  vinegar. — Essence  of  bergamot  20  drops,  es- 
sence of  ambergris  4  drachms,  essence  of  vanilla  and 
oil  of  neroli  each  30  drops,  strong  acetic  acid  160  drops, 
alcohol  6  ozs. 

Washes. — Washes  are  mostly  milky  fluids  or  emul- 
sions, formed  by  the  fine  division  of  resins  or  balsams 
in  water,  benzoin  and  myrrh  being  especially  employed 
for  the  purpose.  Of  the  former,  it  was  at  one  time 
believed  that  fumigations  with  it  every  evening  after 
washing  would  prevent  wrinkles  in  the  face.  The  emul- 
sions are  used  by  adding  one  to  two  tablespoon  fills  to 
the  wash-water.  Perfumed  glycerin  is  also  much  em- 
ployed as  an  addition  to  wash-water. 

Virginal  milk  (Lait  virginal). — Alcohol  of  finest 
quality  2J  quarts,  bergamot  oil  and  Turkish  rose  oil 
each  5J  drachms,  benzoin  tincture  1  quart. 

Pulverize  in  a  porcelain  mortar  about  14  drachms  of 
sugar,  add  the  bergamot  oil  and  rose  oil  and  mix  inti- 
mately. Now  bring  the  paste-like  substance  into  a 
glass  bottle,  rinse  out  the  mortar  with  the  alcohol  and 
add  the  latter  to  the  contents  of  the  bottle.  Close  the 
latter  with  a  well-fitting  stopper  and  place  it  in  a  warm 
room  for  8  days,  shaking  frequently.  Then  add  the 
benzoin  tincture,  mix  intimately  and  finally  filter 
through  paper.  This  fluid  is  used  by  adding  sufficient 
of  it  to  the  wash-water  to  form  an  emulsion,  which 
exerts  a  refreshing  and  invigorating  effect  upon  the  skin 
and  olfactory  nerves. 

Rose  milk  (Lait  de  rose). — Rose  water  5  Ibs.,  white  bees- 


COSMETICS.  327 

wax  and  comminuted  Castile  soap  each  3J  ozs.,  potash 
4J  ozs.,  Extract  rose  No.  1  8  ozs. 

Heat  the  rose-water  in  an  enamelled  or  porcelain  vessel, 
and  dissolve  in  it  the  Castile  soap.  Then  add  the  wax, 
and,  when  this  is  dissolved,  the  potash,  stirring  con- 
stantly, while  the  substances  are  dissolving.  When 
solution  is  complete,  strain  the  milk-like  fluid  through  a 
cloth  (best  gauze  or  muslin)  into  another  vessel,  cover  it 
and  allow  it  to  cool.  When  cold  add  the  Extrait  rose, 
shake  thoroughly  and  fill  it  into  bottles  for  sale. 

If  the  Lait  de  rose  is  to  be  rose  color,  add  very  care- 
fully a  small  quantity  of  corallin  tincture  and  shake 
vigorously. 

Besides  wax,  fatty  or  oily  substances  should  not  be 
employed  in  the  preparation  of  these  emulsions,  as 
otherwise  they  would  soon  become  rancid. 

Almond  milk  (Lait  d'amandes  ameres). — Distilled  water 
5  Ibs.,  bitter  almonds  1  lb.,  white  beeswax  1}  ozs.,  com- 
minuted Castile  soap  2J  ozs.,  potash  3J  ozs.,  bitter- 
almond  oil  8J  drachms,  dissolved  in  extract  from  Pomm. 
Tubereuse  8  ozs. 

Scald  and  peel  the  bitter  almonds.  Then  convert 
them  to  a  paste  by  pounding  in  a  clean  mortar,  bring 
the  paste  into  the  distilled  water,  and  extract  in  a  water- 
bath  for  about  }  hour.  Then  strain  the  liquid  through 
a  cloth,  successively  dissolve  the  other  substances  in  the 
strained  fluid  in  the  water-bath,  and  when  all  is  dis- 
solved, strain  again  and  proceed  as  given  for  rose  milk. 
The  bitter-almond  oil  is  dissolved  in  the  extract  from 
Pomm.  Tubereuse  and  added  last  of  all  to  the  liquid 
mass. 


328  MANUFACTURE   OF   PERFUMERY. 

Lily  milk  (Lait  de  lys). — Rose  water,  orange-flower 
water,  and  jasmine  water  each  1  quart,  white  beeswax 
3J  ozs.,  Castile  soap  2J  ozs.,  potash  and  orris-root  tinc- 
ture each  3J  ozs.,  cumarin  tincture  If  ozs.,  dissolved  in 
musk-root  tincture  3J  ozs.,  bergamot  oil  If  ozs.  Pro- 
ceed as  given  for  Lait  de  Rose. 

In  regard  to  the  Castile  soap,  it  may  here  be  remarked 
that  it  should  be  neutral  and  contain  no  excess  of  oil,  as 
otherwise  all  the  preparations  above  given  might,  in  a 
short  time,  become  rancid. 

Perfumed  glycerin  with  rose  odor. — Chemically  pure 
glycerin  of  28°  B.  10  Ibs.,  Extrait  rose  No.  1,  8  ozs. 

By  adding  the  Extrait  rose,  the  glycerin  becomes  tur- 
bid, but  clarifies  by  shaking  thoroughly  and  allowing 
the  mixture  to  stand  quietly  for  several  days.  Filtering 
the  fluid  is  not  advisable,  and  besides  entirely  useless. 

Perfumed  glycerin  with  fruit  odor. — Chemically  pure 
glycerin  of  28°  B.  10  Ibs.,  any  kind  of  fruit  ether  If 
ozs.  Shake  thoroughly.  The  glycerin,  if  chemically 
pure,  is  not  rendered  turbid  by  the  fruit  ether,  which, 
of  course,  must  also  be  of  the  best  quality.  ^ 

PERFUMED   MEALS  AND   PASTES. — The(perfumed 
meals  are  frequently  used  for  washing  in  place  of  soap, 
or  they  are  applied  after  washing,  or  shaving,  to  the  skin 
to  prevent  the  latter  from  becoming  rough  or  chapped.  \ 
The  pastes  are  applied  in  order  to  make  the  skin  softeryr 

Farin  de  noisette  (nut  meal). — Best  quality  wheat  flour 
3  Ibs.,  almond  meal  1J  Ibs.,  orris-root  powder  1  lb.,  ber- 
gamot oil  2  ozs. 

Mix  the  ingredients  intimately  and  pass  the  mixture 
through  a  fine  sieve. 


COSMETICS.  329 

Farin  d'amandes  ameres  (almond  meal). — Best  quality 
wheat  flour  and  almond  meal  each  3  Ibs.,  bitter-almond 
oil  1  oz. 

Mix  the  ingredients  intimately  and  pass  the  mixture 
through  a  fine  sieve. 

Pate  d'amandes  au  miel  (honey  almond  paste). — Best 
quality  almond  meal  2  Ibs.,  honey  4  Ibs.,  chemically  pure 
glycerin  of  28°  B.  2  Ibs.,  fresh  olive  oil  4  Ibs.,  bitter- 
almond  oil  If  ozs.,  the  yolks  of  20  eggs. 

Sift  the  almond  meal  into  a  capacious  earthenware 
dish.  Mix  the  honey  and  glycerin  after  slightly  warm- 
ing them.  Beat  the  yolks  of  the  eggs  in  a  small  dish 
with  a  tablespoon  until  a  uniform  mass  is  formed.  Now 
add  alternately  of  the  mixture  of  honey  and  glycerin  and 
of  the  olive  oil  to  the  almond  meal,  work  the  whole 
thoroughly  with  the  pestle,  then  add  the  yolks  of  the 
eggs,  stirring  constantly,  and  finally  the  bitter-almond 
oil.  The  whole  now  forms  a  viscous  mass.  It  is  best 
to  keep  the  freshly-prepared  paste  in  a  well-closed 
earthenware  pot  in  a  cool  place  for  about  14  days  before 
distributing  it  into  boxes,  because  after  the  ingredients 
are  mixed  together  a  slight  fermentation  takes  place 
which  might  cause  damage  by  bursting  the  lids  of  the 
porcelain  boxes. 

Ladies  use  this  paste  for  producing  a  fine  soft  skin, 
upon  the  hands,  face,  and  neck,  for  which,  in  fact,,  it 
has  proved  excellent. 

Poudre  de  riz  a  la  rose. — Rice  flour  4  Ibs.,  prepared 
talc  19  ozs.,  Extrait  rose  No.  1,  3J  ozs.,  French  rose- 
geranium  oil  14  drachms,  clove  oil  2f  drachms. 

The  ingredients  are  intimately  mixed  and  passed 
through  a  sieve.  The  perfumes  are  brought  together  in 


330  MANUFACTURE   OF   PERFUMERY. 

a  glass  and  thoroughly  shaken.  The  same  directions 
hold  good  for  all  succeeding  receipts  for  Poudre  de  riz. 
Of  talc  only  the  whitest  pieces  should  be  used,  the 
Briancon  talc  or  French  chalk  being  very  suitable  for 
the  purpose,  it  yielding  a  vervjarhite  and  delicate  powder. 
It  is  prepared  as  follows :  L£)ver  1  part  of  talc  pour  2 
parts  of  vinegar,  let  it  stand,  with  frequent  snaking,  for 
14  days,  then  filter  and  thoroughly  wash  the  talc  with 
distilled  water.  J 

If  rose-colored  poudre  de.  riz  rose  is  demanded,  add  to 
the  proportions  of  weight  above  given  about  1  oz.  of 
madder,  triturate  it  thoroughly  with  the  powder,  per- 
fume, triturate  again,  and  finally  pass  the  whole  through 
a  fine  sieve. 

These  rice  powders  are  best  kept  in  well- closed  tin 
canisters. 

Poudre  de  riz  heliotrope. — Eice  flour  4  Ibs.,  prepared 
talc  19  ozs.,  bergamot  oil  10  drachms,  French  rose- 
geranium  oil  5  drachms,  clove  oil  2J  drachms,  vanilla 
tincture  10  drachms,  Extrait  heliotrope  No.  1,  1}  ozs. 

Proceed  as  directed  for  Poudre  de  riz  a  la  rose. 

Poudre  de  riz  a  la  violette. — Rice  flour  4  Ibs.,  prepared 
talc  19  ozs.,  bergamot  oil  10  drachms,  liquid  orris-root 
oil  2J  drachms,  Extrait  Violette  No.  1,  1  oz.,  cumarin 
tincture  5  drachms. 

Proceed  as  directed  for  Poudre  riz  a  la  rose. 

Poudre  de  riz  orange. — Rice  flour  4  Ibs.,  prepared 
talc  19  ozs.,  Portugal  oil  1  oz.,  petit-grain  oil  5  drachms, 
extract  frpm  Pommade  Orange  1  oz. 

Proceed  as  directed  for  Poudre  riz  a  la  rose. 

Poudre  de  riz  muguet. — Rice  flour  4  Ibs.,  prepared 
talc  19  ozs.,  ylang-ylang  oil,  winter-green  oil,  angelica 


COSMETICS.  331 

oil,  and  bitter-almond  oil  each  2  drops,  bergamot  oil  5 
drops,  storax  tincture  14  drachms,  Extrait  Muguet  No. 
1,  3J  ozs. 

Proceed  as  directed  for  Poudre  de  riz  a  la  rose. 

Poudre  de  riz  ixora. — Rice  flour  4  Ibs.,  prepared  talc 
19  oz.,  bergamot  oil  2J  drachms,  Ceylon  cinnamon  oil  1 
drachm,  tinctures  of  orris  root  and  vanilla  each  If  ozs., 
extract  from  Pomm.  Cassie  or  Extrait  ixora  if  ozs. 

Proceed  as  directed  for  Poudre  de  riz  a  la  rose. 

Poudre  de  riz  bouquet. — Rice  flour  4  Ibs.,  prepared 
talc  19  ozs.,  bergamot  oil  8  drachms,  African  rose  oil  and 
Ceylon  cinnamon  oil  each  2f  drachms,  Extrait  ess- 
bouquet  No.  1,  3J  ozs. 

Proceed  as  directed  for  Poudre  de  riz  a  la 

__ 

COLD  CREAMS  AND  LiP-SALVES.-\The  purpose 
cold  creams  and  lip-salves  is  to  impart  lustre  to  the  skin 
and  protect  it  from  cracking  in  changes  of  temperature. 

Cold  cream. — Fat-almond  oil  3  Ibs.,  spermaceti  5J-  ozs., 
white  beeswax  7  ozs.,  best  rose  water  1  quart,  bergamot 
oil  14  drachms,  Turkish  rose  oil  5J  drachms. 

Melt  in  a  porcelain  dish  in  the  water-bath,  first  the 
spermaceti  and  wax,  then  add  the  almond  oil,  and  when 
the  whole  forms  a  liquid  allow  the  previously  warmed 
rose  water  to  flow  in  slowly,  stirring  constantly.  Now 
take  the  dish  from  the  water-bath,  and  with  a  large 
spoon  of  silver  or  horn  stir  the  mass  until  it  begins  to 
thicken.  Then  stir  in  the  perfume  and  fill  the  finished 
cold  cream  in  boxes. 

Vaseline  cold  cream. — White  vaseline  2  Ibs.,  fat-almond 
oil  1  lb.,  white  beeswax  If  ozs.,  bergamot  oil  14  drachms, 
French  rose-geranium  oil  and  Turkish  rose  oil  each  2J 
drachms. 


332  MANUFACTURE    OF   PERFUMERY. 

Proceed  (without  the  rose  water)  as  directed  for  cold 
cream. 

Glycerin  cream. — Fat-almond  oil  3  Ibs.,  white  bees- 
wax and  spermaceti  each  7  ozs.,  chemically  pure  glycerin 
of  28°  B.  1  lb.,  bergamot  oil  1  oz.,  clove  oil,  Turkish 
rose  oil,  and  French  geranium  oil  each  2J  drachms. 
Proceed  as  above. 

Creme  de  concombre. — Fat-almond  oil  8  ozs.,  white 
beeswax  10  drachms,  spermaceti  12  drachms,  freshly- 
expressed  cucumber  juice  7  ozs.,  volatile  cucumber  oil 
2J  drachms,  ^bergamot  oil  1J  drachms. 

Grate  the  cucumbers  on  a  grater,  place  the  grated 
mass  upon  a  clean  white  cloth,  and  gently  express  the 
juice  so  that  no  mucus  passes  through  the  cloth.  The 
cucumber  juice  is  slightly  warmed,  the  rest  of  the  pro- 
cess being  the  same  as  with  cold  cream. 

Glycerin  gelee.— Gum- tragacanth  5J  drachms,  swelled 
up  in  rose  water  10J  ozs.,  chemically  pure  glycerin  of  28° 
B.  7  ozs.,  honey  3J  ozs.,  Extrait  rose  No.  1,  If  ozs. 

Convert  the  gum  tragacanth  to  a  coarse  powder,  bring 
the  powder  into  a  capacious  glass  flask,  pour  the  rose 
water  upon  it,  and,  after  corking  the  flask,  let  it  stand 
for  about  3  days,  shaking  it  frequently  and  vigorously. 
Then  strain  the  swelled  gum  tragacanth,  which  now  rep- 
resents a  thick  fluid,  through  a  white  cloth  or  fine-meshed 
sieve  into  a  dish,  and  after  adding  the  glycerin,  honey, 
and  Extrait  rose,  mix  the  whole  intimately,  and  fill  the 
tubes  or  glasses  with  the  finished  preparation.  It  is  an 
approved  remedy  for  chapped  skin. 

Glycerin  jelly. — Glycerin  1  lb.,  fat-almond  oil  3  Ibs., 
soap  2J  ozs.,  orange-peel  oil  2J  drachms,  thyme  oil  5J 
drachms. 


COSMETICS.  333 

Mix  the  soap  with  the  glycerin,  gradually  add  the  oil, 
and  finally  the  perfume. 

Cream  of  roses. — Gum  tragacanth  25  grains,  glycerin 
1  oz.,  alcohol  J  oz.,  water  6J  ozs.,  boric  acid  40  grains, 
spirits  of  lavender  and  bergamot  each  1  oz. 

Boroglycerin  cream. — Dissolve  1  part  of  boric  acid  in 
24  parts  of  glycerin  ;  add  to  this  solution  5  parts  of 
lanolin  and  70  parts  of  petrolatum.  This  preparation 
is  said  to  be  excellent  for  chapped  hands,  lips,  etc. 

Recamier  cream. — The  following  formula  is  said  to 
produce  something  quite  similar  to  this  preparation  : 
zinc  oxide  4  ozs.,  glycerin  13  fluid  drachms,  water  5 
fluid  drachms,  spirit  of  rose  (4  drachms  to  1  pint)  1 
fluid  drachm. 

Preparations  for  chapped  hands. — I.  Quince  seed  2 
ozs.,  rose  water  16  ozs.,  glycerin  32  ozs.,  tincture  of 
benzoin  2  ozs.  Macerate  the  quince  seeds  in  the  rose 
water  24  hours,  strain,  and  add  the  glycerin  and  benzoin. 

II.  Balsam  of  Peru  1  drachm,  purified  wool  fat  1 
oz.     Perfume  to  suit. 

III.  Menthol  1.5  parts,  salol  2,  olive  oil  2,  lanolin 
50.     Apply  .twice   daily.     The  pain   soon   ceases,   the 
skin  softens  and  the  chaps  quickly  disappear. 

IV.  Quince  seed    1J  drachma,  boric  acid  4  grains, 
carbolic  acid  10  grains,  glycerin  2  ozs.,  alcohol  3  ozs., 
cologne  2  ozs.,  oil  of  lavender  20  drops,  glycerite  of 
starch  2  ozs.,  water  sufficient  to  make  1  pint.     Dissolve 
the  boric  acid  in  8  ozs.  of  water,  macerate  the  quince 
seed   in  the   solution  for   three   hours  and  then  press 
through  a  straining  cloth,  add  the  glycerin,  carbolic  acid 
and  glycerite  of  starch  and  mix  thoroughly.     Mix  the 


334  MANUFACTURE   OF   PERFUMERY. 

cologne  and  oil  of  lavender  with  the  alcohol,  add  the 
solution  to  the  mucilage  and  mix  the  whole  well. 

Wash  for  the  hands. — Tannin  8  grains,  glycerin  5 
drachms,  rose  water  4  ozs.  Mix  and  filter.  The  hands 
should  be  washed  with  soap  in  soft  water,  or  water  to 
which  a  little  borax  has  been  added,  thoroughly  dried 
and  then  well  rubbed  with  the  lotion. 

Nail-powder. — The  following  preparation  serves  for 
the  purpose  of  imparting  smoothness  and  lustre  to  the 
finger  nails.  For  use  apply  some  of  the  powder  to  a 
piece  of  soft  glove-leather  and  rub  the  nails  until  they 
show  lustre. 

Stannic  oxide  (putty  powder)  2  Ibs.,  carmine  5J 
drachms,  oils  of  bergamotand  la  vender  each  2J  drachms. 
Rub  the  stannic  oxide  as  fine  as  possible  and  mix  it  in 
the  mortar  with  the  other  ingredients. 

Lip-salve  No.  1. — Pomm.  Rose  No.  24  or  30,  8  ozs., 
best  carmine  nacarat  2J  drachms. 

Convert  the  carmine  to  a  fine  powder  and  thoroughly 
triturate  it  with  the  Pomm.  Rose  in  a  porcelain  mortar 
until  no  more  specks  of  carmine  are  perceptible.  By 
this  tritu ration  the  salve  becomes  very  soft  and  delicate, 
so  that  it  can  be  conveniently  pressed  into  the  small 
boxes.  A  pleasing  lustre  .is  then  imparted  to  the  sur- 
face of  the  salve  by  carefully  moving  each  box  to  and 
fro  over  the  flame  of  an  alcohol  lamp.  It  may  here  be 
remarked  that  carmine  nacarat  is  the  best  coloring  mat- 
ter for  lip-salve,  it  being  far  more  resistant  than,  for  in- 
stance, alkannin,  which,  in  contact  with  the  skin,  readily 
acquires  a  bluish  coloration. 

If  lip-salve  of  a  more  solid  consistency  is  desired,  the 
object  may  be  attained  by  the  addition  of  a  few  drachms 


COSMETICS.  335 

of  white  beeswax.  However,  in  this  case,  the  pomade 
must  be  melted  in  a  water-bath,  or  the  pomade  and  wax 
melted  together.  Then  add  the  carmine,  stir  until  cold, 
fill  into  boxes  and  make  the  surface  lustrous  over  an  al- 
cohol flame. 

Lip-salve  No.  2. — Pomm.  Rose  No.  6  or  12,  10  J  ozs., 
Huile  antique  rose  No.  6  or  12,  14  drachms,  white  bees- 
wax 5|  drachms,  carmine  nacarat  2f  drachms. 

Melt  the  wax  in  a  porcelain  or  enamelled  vessel,  then 
add,  first,  the  oil,  combine  it  witli  the  wax,  then  add  the 
pomade  and  finally  the  carmine.  When  all  this  is  inti- 
mately mixed,  stir  it  until  cold.  The  further  process  is 
the  same  as  aiven  for  No.  1. 

PAiNTS.-^Jhe  object  of  paints  is  to  hide  blemishes  of  / 
the  skin  and  to  impart  to  it  a  different  color — as  a  rule  f 
a  youthful  one — from  that  bestowed  by  nature,  though  / 
under  certain  conditions,  especially  in  the  case  of  actors,  \ 
they  are  also  employed  for  the  purpose  of  changing  the  ' 
expression  of  the  face.}  A  distinction  is  made  between 
pulverulent,  solid,  liquid  and  fat  paints. 

PULVERULENT  PAINTS  (POWDERS). — The  simplest 
powder  is  wheat  starch.  It  forms  a  dull  white  powder 
with  a  bluish  lustre,  and  is  perfectly  harmless.  Pow- 
dered talc,  prepared  in  the  manner  previously  described 
(p.  330),  is  also  much  used  for  powder.  By  mixing  100 
parts  of  prepared  talc,  while  still  moist,  with  12  parts 
of  spermaceti,  previously  rubbed  to  a  moist  powder 
with  some  rectified  alcohol,  and  drying  at  a  moderate 
heat,  a  product  known  in  commerce  as  u  Blanc  fard," 
or  "  Blanc  frajigais/'  is  obtained. 

Talc  by  itself  not  furnishing  a  beautiful  white,  it  is 
mixed,  according  to  circumstances,  with  subnitrate  of 


336  MANUFACTURE   OF   PERFUMERY. 

bismuth  (flake-white),  magnesia,  chalk  or  zinc-white. 
White  lead,  though  frequently  used,  cannot  be  recom- 
mended, it  being  injurious  to  health.  Subnitrate  of 
bismuth  furnishes  the  best  white ;  it  has,  however,  the 
disadvantage  of  turning  brown  in  air  containing  sul- 
phuretted hydrogen.  Zinc-white  does  not  have  this  de- 
fect, but  lacks  the  lustre  and  pure  white  color. 

Customary  mixtures  for  powders  are  as  follows  : — 

I.  Carbonate  of  magnesia  and  wheat  starch  each  5 
parts,  prepared  talc  15,  zinc-white  10. 

II.  Carbonate  of  magnesia  and  chalk  each  5  parts, 
prepared  talc  15,  subnitrate  of  bismuth  20. 

The  powders  are  prepared  in  three  colors :  white, 
rose-color  and  yellowish.  To  heighten  the  white  color 
the  powder  is  mixed  with  about  J  of  one  per  cent,  of 
ultra-marine.  For  rose  color  some  carmine  is  used,  and 
for  coloring  yellowish  some  carmine  and  yellow  ochre. 

A  powder  for  coloring  more  intensely  red  is  prepared 
as  follows :  Mix  100  parts  of  prepared  talc  with  2.5  or 
more  parts  of  carmine,  according  to  the  desired  shade 
of  color.  The  carmine  is  triturated  by  itself  and  in 
small  portions  added  to  the  talc.  It  should  not  be 
dissolved,  as  given  in  many  directions,  in  ammonia,  it 
losing  thereby  its  fiery  red.  To  obtain  an  especially 
delicate  powder,  the  finished  article  should  be  carefully 
bolted  through  silk. 

SOLID  PAINTS. — Solid  paints  may  be  prepared  from 
the  above-mentioned  powders  by  stirring  them  to  a  paste 
with  thin  gum  solution. 

Ordinary  red  paint  (rouge). — Prepared  talc  2  Ibs.,  car- 
mine 1  oz.,  gum-tragacanth  mucilage  prepared  from  dis- 
tilled water  3J  ozs.  and  gum-tragacanth  2J  drachms,  best 


COSMETICS.  337 

olive  oil  5J  drachms,  best  alcohol  1  oz.,  spirits  of  sal 
ammoniac  J  tablespoon ful,  distilled  water  as  much  as 
required. 

Fine  red  paint  (rouge). — Prepared  talc  2  Ibs.,  carmine 
1 J  ozs.,  gum-tragacanth  mucilage  prepared  from  distilled 
water  3J  ozs.  and  gum-tragacanth  2 \  drachms,  best  olive 
oil  5J  drachms,  Extrait  rose  No.  1,  1  oz.,  spirits  of  sal 
ammoniac  J  tablespoonful,  rose  water  as  much  as  required. 

White  paint. — Prepared  talc  2  Ibs.,  gum-tragacanth 
mucilage  prepared  from  distilled  water  3J  ozs.  and  gum- 
tragacanth  2J  drachms,  best  olive  oil  5J  drachms,  Extrait 
rose  No.  1,  1  oz.,  rose  water  as  much  as  required. 

The  above-mentioned  paints  may  be  filled  in  small 
porcelain  boxes,  which  must,  however,  be  hermetically 
closed  to  prevent  drying  out.  To  obviate  the  latter, 
the  paints  may  be  mixed  with  glycerin,  which  must, 
however,  be  carefully  done  so  that  the  mass  does  not 
become  liquid ;  too  much  glycerin  may  also  make  the 
paint  blue. 

Regarding  the  preparation  of  these  paints,  the  follow- 
ing may  be  said :  The  prepared  talc  is  passed  through  a 
fine-meshed  sieve  into  a  porcelain  dish.  The  carmine  is 
rubbed  fine  in  a  porcelain  mortar  and  then  triturated 
with  water*  in  the  same  mortar  until  no  more  specks  of 
carmine  are  visible.  Now  add  the  dissolved  carmine  to 
the  talc  in  the  porcelain  dish,  stir  thoroughly  with  a 
horn  or  wooden  spoon,  and  gradually  add  sufficient  rose 
water  to  form  a  dough-like  mass.  Then  add  to  this 
mass  about  1}  ozs.  of  gum-tragacanth  mucilage,  pre- 

*  For  fine  preparations,  rose  water  is  used  ;  for  ordinary,  distilled 
water. 

22 


338  MANUFACTURE   OF   PERFUMERY. 

pared  3  or  4  days  before  from  2^  drachms  of  pulver- 
ized gum-tragacanth  and  3|  ozs.  of  water,  work  the 
mass  thoroughly  through,  and  add  the  5J  drachms  of 
best  olive  oil.  The  oil  being  also  incorporated  with 
the  mass,  mix  in  the  1  oz.  of  Extrait  rose  or  alcohol, 
and  again  work  the  mass  thoroughly  through,  when  the 
paint  is  ready  to  be  brought  upon  porcelain  plates. 

The  procedure  is  now  as  follows :  By  means  of  a 
spoon  bring  a  quantity  of  the  paint,  about  the  size  of 
three  hazelnuts  upon  the  centre  of  a  porcelain  plate, 
spread  it  out  uniformly  to  the  edge  of  the  plate  by 
knocking  the  latter  against  the  table,  and  in  the  same 
manner  cover  6  or  8  plates.  These  are  the  test-plates. 
Tie  a  piece  of  paper  over  the  dish  containing  the  rest 
of  the  paint  and  set  it  aside.  Place  the  plates  coated 
with  paint  in  a  dry  place  to  dry,  but  do  not  expose  them 
to  sunlight,  nor  should  soaps  be  kept  in  the  room,  as  in 
both  cases  the  paint  would  become  blue.  After  12  to 
1.8  hours  the  paint  upon  the  plates  will  be  dry,  and  now 
comes  the  most  difficult  part  of  the  manipulation.  With 
a  small  horn-knife  or  the  sharp  edge  of  a  playing  card 
scrape  off  very  carefully  and  uniformly  a  small  quan- 
tity from  the  surface  of  the  paint,  proceeding  from  the 
edges  towards  the  centre  of  the  plate.  Then,  to  see 
whether  the  paint  adheres  firmly  to  the  plate,  knock  the 
edge  of  the  latter  quite  vigorously  against  the  table.  If 
it  adheres  firmly,  cover  the  entire  plate  with  a  piece  of 
watered  silk,  catch  the  ends  of  the  latter  beneath  the 
plate  with  the  left  hand,  and,  with  the  palm  of  the  right, 
run  quite  hard  over  the  silk.  By  this  means  the  moire 
of  the  silk  is  imprinted  upon  the  paint,  giving  it  a  nice 
appearance.  Proceed  in  the  same  manner  with  the  six 


COSMETICS.  339 

or  eight  test-plates,  and  if  the  paint  upon  them  bears 
the  manipulation  without  dropping  off,  work  up  the  rest 
of  the  paint  in  the  dish.  If,  however,  the  paint  does 
not  adhere  to  the  plates,  it  is  proof  of  it  containing  not 
enough  gum-tragacanth.  In  this  case  add  some  of  the 
mucilage  to  the  paint  in  the  dish,  work  it  thoroughly 
through,  and  proceed  in  the  manner  described.  Pack- 
ing, labelling,  etc.,  being  subject  to  fashion,  need  not 
here  be  described,  but  as  the  charm  of  novelty  con- 
tributes much  to  the  sale  of  an  article,  the  manufacturer 
should  make  it  his  business  to  invent  new  attractive  de- 
signs, without  too  much  imitating  others. 

Red  stick-paint  (Stick  rouge). — Prepared  talc  1  lb., 
carmine  5|  drachms,  olive  oil  2}  drachms,  alcohol  8J 
drachms,  spirit  of  sal  ammoniac  a  good  teaspoonful, 
distilled  water  and  gum-tragacanth  mucilage  as  much  as 
required. 

The  mode  of  preparation  is  the  same  as  for  solid 
paints,  except  that  in  order  to  give  the  rouge  more  con- 
sistency, less  water  and  gum-tragacanth  mucilage  are  to 
be  used. 

For  moulding  the  rouge  into  sticks,  round  tin  moulds 
about  2J  inches  long  and  of  the  thickness  of  a  finger 
are  used.  To  facilitate  the  removal  of  the  rouge 
sticks,  the  inside  of  the  moulds  is  rubbed  with  a  rag 
moistened  with  olive  oil  and  wrapped  around  a  thin 
stick  of  wood.  After  removing  the  sticks  from  the 
mould,  they  are  allowed  to  dry  superficially,  and  next 
wrapped  first  in  tissue  paper  and  then  in  tinfoil,  one 
end,  however,  being  left  free  from  paper  and  tinfoil. 
They  are  finally  labelled  and  packed  in  paste-board  boxes. 


340  MANUFACTURE   OF   PERFUMERY. 

White  stick  paint  is  prepared  in  the  same  manner  as 
stick  rouge,  with  the  exception  that  the  carmine  is  omitted. 

Rouge  en/cutties. — Prepared  talc  If  ozs.,  carmine  2f 
drachms,  olive  oil  10  to  15  drops,  spirits  of  sal  ammo- 
niac about  50  drops,  pure  alcohol  5J  ozs.,  distilled  water 
or  rose  water  8  ozs.,  gum-tragacanth  mucilage  If  ozs. 

The  carmine  is  first  rubbed  fine,  then  the  olive  oil, 
spirits  of  sal  ammoniac,  and  gum-tragacanth  mucilage 
are  successively  thoroughly  triturated  with  the  carmine, 
next  the  talc  is  added,  then  the  water,  and  finally  the 
alcohol.  Mix  all  intimately  in  a  mortar  with  the  pestle. 
The  whole  forms  a  fluid  which,  by  means  of  a  fine  brush, 
is  applied  to  a  square  piece  of  white  card  board,  so  that  a 
circular  disk  the  size  of  a  silver  dollar  lies  in  the  centre 
of  the  paper.  The  application  of  the  rouge  to  the  paper 
has  to  be  repeated  three  or  four  times,  allowing  one  layer 
to  dry  before  applying  the  next.  When  the  last  layer  is 
dry,  the  rouge  is  smoothed  by  laying  a  piece  of  tissue 
paper  upon  it  and  running  the  broad  side  of  a  paper 
cutter  over  the  tissue  paper.  In  packing,  a  piece  of 
tissue  is  laid  between  the  separate  pieces. 

LIQUID  PAINTS/  Liquid  paints  are  chiefly  used  by 
actors.  \ 

LiquidA-ouge. — Rose  water  1  \  quarts,  carmine  If  ozs., 
fcxtrait  rose  No.  1,  1  Ib. 

Heat  the  rose  water,  without  allowing  it  to  boil,  in  a 
glazed  earthenware  vessel,  add  the  carmine,  previously 
rubbed  fine,  to  the  hot  rose  water,  and  stir  the  fluid  with 
a  clean  wooden  spatula  until  the  carmine  is  completely 
divided.  Then  take  the  vessel  from  the  fire  and  add 
a  tablespoonful  of  spirits  of  sal  ammoniac.  The  latter 
imparts  to  the  rouge  a  brighter  red,  but  not  too  much 


COSMETICS.  341 

of  it  should  be  used,  as  otherwise  the  rouge  acquires  a 
bluish  shade,  and  besides  the  odor  of  the  spirits  of  sal 
ammoniac  is  not  exactly  agreeable.  When  the  rouge  is 
cold  add  1  Ib.  of  Extrait  de  rose,  mix  the  whole  inti- 
mately, and  filter  through  white  filtering  paper  into  a 
clean  glass  bottle.  The  rouge  has  to  be  protected  from 
sunlight. 

White  liquid  paint. — Fine  zinc- white  3  Ibs.,  rose  water 
or  orange  water  3J  quarts. 

In  a  clean  enamelled  vessel  boil  the  zinc-white  in  5 
quarts  of  distilled  water,  stirring  constantly,  until  about 
3  quarts  of  the  water  are  evaporated.  Then  take  the 
vessel  from  the  fire  and  allow  the  fluid  to  stand  quietly 
for  J  hour.  Then  carefully  decant  off  the  supernatant 
water,  pour  the  3J  quarts  of  rose  water  or  orange  water 
upon  the  zinc-white,  stir  thoroughly,  and  fill  in  bottles. 
-Fat  paints. — Fat  paints  of  various  colors  and  shades 
are  prepared  chiefly  for  the  use  of  actors.  The  ground 
mass  consists  of  Blanc  fard  or  Blanc  franqais,  or  simply 
of  pulverized  talc  bolted  through  silk.  It  is  colored, 
according  to  the  color  desired,  with  carmine,  eosin, 
sienna,  lamp  black,  or  aniline  colors,  and  incorporated 
in  the  proportion  of  1J  ground  mass  to  1  fatty  mass, 
with  the  fatty  mass  consisting  of  white  wax  3  parts  and 
olive  oil  7  parts  ;  or  paraffin  1J  parts  and  white  vase- 
line 2  parts.  The  fatty  mass  is  melted  in  the  water- 
bath,  the  powder  stirred  in,  and  after  allowing  the 
mixture  to  cool  somewhat,  it  is  perfumed  and  poured 
into  tin  tubes  previously  slightly  warmed. 

Besides  the  above-mentioned  fat  paints  in  sticks,  there 
are  also  fat  paints  in  porcelain  boxes,  which  are  of  a  some- 
what softer  consistency.  They  are  prepared  in  white, 


342  MANUFACTURE   OF   PERFUMERY. 

rose  color,  and  yellowish.  A  few  receipts  for  them  are 
as  follows  : — 

Creme  de  Lys. — Melt  3  J  ozs.  of  spermaceti  and  7  ozs. 
of  white  wax  in  the  water-bath,  and  after  taking  the 
mass  from  the  fire  mix  it  with  3|  Ibs.  of  subnitrate  of 
bismuth,  previously  rubbed  fine,  with  If  Ibs.  of  almond 
oil.  Then  allow  to  cool  somewhat,  next  stir  until  en- 
tirely cold,  and  perfume. 

Creme  de  rose. — Spermaceti  3J  ozs.,  white  wax  7  ozs., 
Blanc  Francais  3£  Ibs.,  carmine  8J  drachms,  almond  oil 
If  Ibs. 

Proceed  as  directed  for  creme  de  lys. 


INDEX. 


4  BELMOSK  or  musk-seed  tinc- 

A    ture.  230,  231 

Absorption  or  enfleurage,  process 

of,  60-65 
Acacia  oil,  87 

Acetic  amyl  acetate  or  amyl  ace- 
tate, 201 

ethyl  or  ethyl  acetate,  201-204 
Acid  number,  81 
African  and  French  geranium  oils, 

112,  113 
Alcohol  and  sulphuric  acid  test, 

Hager's,  78 

chloroform,  and  benzine, quan- 
titative   determination     of 
adulterations  with,  72,  73 
or  spirit  of  wine,  detection  of, 

in  volatile  oil,  68-71 
Alcoholic  perfumes,  219-255 
Allspice,  oil  of,  or  pimento  oil,  136 
Almond  bandoline,  305 
meal,  329 
milk,  327 
oil  (bitter),  87-93 

adulterations  of,  90-92 
artificial,  89,  90 
tincture.  234 
paste,  honey,  329 
Alpine  herb  oil,  301 
Ambergris,  31,  186-188  V 
adulterations  of,  188 
tincture,  229 
Ambreih  or  ambrin,  187 
America   and   England,   use  and 
preparation  of  nitrous  ether  in, 
212-214 

American  curled  mint  oil,  132 
English,  or  Canadian  castor, 

185,  186 
musk-rat,  musk  of  the,  181, 

182 

oil  of  turpentine,  149 
peppermint  oil,  132,  133 


American  soap  industry,  consump- 
tion of  citronella  oil  in  the, 
108 

storax,  172 
Amygdalin,  88 

Amyl  acetate  or  acetic  amyl  ace- 
tate, 201 
valerate    or  valerianic   ether, 

214-216 
Anethol,  111 
Angelica  oil,  92,  93 

root  tincture,  231 
Animal    kingdom,    perfume-sub- 
stances from  the,  178-188 
Anise-seed  oil,  93,  94 
Antiseptic  gargle,  275 
Apparatus  for  alcoholic  extracts 
from  flower  pomades,  223- 
225 

for  determining  the  percent- 
age of  volatile  oil  in  a  vege- 
table substance,  40,  41  , 
for  distilling  lemon  oil,  118-  f 

120 
for  the  absorption  process,  62- 

64 
for  the  distillation  of  volatile 

oil,  41-46 
for  the  extraction  of  volatile 

oils,  48-57 

for  the   preparation  of   tinc- 
tures, 226,  227 
Apple  essence,  216 
ether,  216 
pomade,  289 
Apricot  essence,  216,  217 

ether,  216 
Aqua  mellis,  255 
Arabian    physicians,   receipts    for 

cosmetics  in  the  writings  of,  26   ^ 
Arnica  tooth-tincture,  276 
Aromatic  vinegar,  325 

English,  325,  326 


344 


INDEX. 


Artificial  musk,  182,  183    V 

perfume- materials,  189-218 
Athens,  luxurious  use  of  ointments  i 

in,  22 

Atomizers,  263 

Atomizing,  pine  odor  for,  265 
Attar  of  roses   or  rose   oil,   136- 

144 

Austrian  oil  of  turpentine,  148 
Avicenna,  receipts  for  cosmetics  in 

the  writings  of.  26    J 


BALM  oil,  96 
Balm -oil  tincture,  234 
Balsam,  Brazilian,  166 
Carthagena,  166 
fumigating,  265,  266 
Peru,  159-166 
pine  oil,  149,  150 
Tolu,  166-168  - 

new  variety  of,  167, 168 
white  Indian,  172 
Peru,  172 
Peruvian,  130,  161 
Balsams,  155,  156  V 

and  resins,  155-177 
Balsamum  Peruvianum,  159-166 
Bandoline,  almond,  305 

rose,  305 

Bandolines,  304,  305 
Barenthin's  application  of  Huhl's 
iodine  method  to  volatile  oils, 
80 

Bartholow's  depilatory,  323 
Bartlett,  W.  W.,  menthol  pungent 

as  prepared  by,  260 
Preston  salt  as  prepared  by, 

260 
Basil  oil,  96 

tincture,  234 
Bayberry  oil,  or  oil  of  bay  leaves, 

96,  97 
Bay  leaves,  oil  of,  or  bayberry  oil, 

96,97 
Bay  rum,  312-314 

formulae  for,  313,  314 
Beard,  Rogers's  pomade  for  pro- 
ducing a,  294 
Bear's  grease,  285 

pomade,  289 

Beauty-patch  or  mouche,  28 
Beef  marrow  pomade,  294 
Benzine,  detection  of,  in  volatile 
oil,  71,  72 


Benzoic  ether  or  ethyl  benzoate, 

204,  205 

Benzoin,  157-159  ^ 
amygdaloid,  157 
determination  of  cinnamic  acid 

in, 158, 159 
flowers,  159 
in  tears,  157 
lump,  157 
pomade,  290 
tincture,  229 
treatment  of  fat  oils  with,  300, 

301 

varieties  of,  158 
Bergamot  oil,  97,  98 

tincture,  234 

Betula  lenta,  oil  from,  152 
Beyer  frfcres,  apparatus  for  alco- 
holic   extracts 
from  flower  po- 
mades, 223-225 
for   the   prepara- 
tion   of     tinc- 
tures, 226,  227 
Birch  oil,  152 
Bismuth  hair  dye,  320 
nitrate  of,  335,  336 
Bisulphide  of  carbon,  48 
Black  hair  dyes,  321 
tooth-powder,  280 
wax  pomade,  299 
Blanc  fard  or  blanc  frar$  lis,  335 
Blondel,  Dr.,  memoir  on  the  star 

anise  tree,  by,  95 
Blonde  wax  pomade,  299 
Bocttger's  depilatory,  323 
Boroglycerin  cream,  333 
Bouchardat  and   Lafont,   conver- 
sion  of   oil   of  turpentine  into 
lemon  oil  by,  189,  190 
Bouquet  vaseline  pomade,  296 
Bouquets,  219,  240-245 
Brazilian  balsam,  166 
Brilliantine,  305-308 

formulas  for,  307,  308 
Brown  hair  dye,  321 

wax  pomade,  299,  300 
Bulgaria,  rose  oil  industry  in,  137, 

138 

Burdock-root  hair  oil,  302 
Butyric  acid,  preparation  of,  205- 

207 

ether,  formation  of,  207,  208 
or    ethyl    butyrate,    205- 
210 


INDEX. 


345 


riAJEPUT  oil,  98,  99  , 
\J  Camomile  oil,  99,  100  r 
Camphor  tooth-powder,  280 
Canadian,  English,  or  American 

castor,  185, 186 
Canango  oil,  154 

tincture,  234 
Caraway  oil,  100, 101 
Carbon*  bisulphide  of,  48 
Carbonic   acid,  apparatus  for  de- 
veloping a  current  of,  50-52 
Carob  or  St.  John's  bread,  209 
Carthagena  balsam,  166 
Carvene,  100 
Carvol,  35,  100 
Cassia  oil,  103,  104 

tincture,  235 
value  of,  104 
Cassie,  oil  of,  87 
Castor,  31 

adulterations  of,  186 
Castoreum  or  castor,  185, 186 
Castor  oil,   determination    of,    in 

volatile  oil,  67,  68 
pomade,  293 
or  castoreum,  185, 186 
tincture,  229 
Cedar  oil,  101 

tincture,  235 

Ceylon  cinnamon  oil,  102,  103 
Chalk,  336 

Chamomile  oil,  99,  100 
Chapped  hands,  preparations  for, 

333,  334 
Chassis,  61 
Cherry  essence,  217 
ether,  216 
laurel  oil,  101,  102 
tooth-paste,  278 

non-fermenting,  278 
Chloroform,  alcohol,  and  benzine, 
quantitative    determination 
of   adulterations   with,  72, 
73 

detection  of,  in  volatile  oil,  71 
Cineol,  123 
Cinuamaldehyde,  103 

quantitative  determination  of, 

104-106 
Cinnamic  acid,  determination  of, 

in  benzoin,  158,  159 
Cinnamon  leaves,  oil  of,  and  cin- 
namon-root oil,  104  I/ 
oil  tincture,  235 
oils,  102-106    ^ 


Cinnamon  root  oil  and  oil  of  cinna- 
mon leaves,  104 
Citrene,  35,  121 
Citronella  oil,  107,  108 

.  tincture,  235 
Citronellol,  107 
Citron  oil,  106,  107 
Civet,  31,  184,  185 

tincture,  228 
Clove-oil  tincture,  235 
Cloves,  oil  of,  108-110 
Cold  cream,  331 

creams  and  lip-ealves,  331-335 
Cologne  water,  249-254 

durability  of  volatile  oils 

used  for,  250,  251 
preparation  of,  249,  250 
receipts  for,  252-254 
Coloring  substances  for  dentifrices 
and  mouth-waters, 
272 

for  pomades,  286 
Compound  odors,  240-245 
Copper  hair  dye,  322 

nitroprusside  of,  test,  75-78 
salts  for  dyeing  the  hair,  315, 

316 

Cortex  thymiamatis,  168 
Cosmetics,  324-342 

and  perfumeries  in  the  Middle 

Ages,  26,  27  V 
and    perfumes    in    Italy,   26, 

27    * 
receipts  for,  in  the  writings  of 

Arabian  physicians.  26   «/ 
Cream,  boroglycerin,  333 
cold,  331 
glycerin,  332 
of  roses,  333 
E^camier,  333 
vaseline  cold,  331 
CrSme  de  concombre,  332 
de  lys,  342 
de  rose,  342 
Cumarin,  190-193 

manufacture  of,  192,  193 
tincture,  232 
Curled  mint  oil,  132 
Currant  essence,  217 
Cymene,  121 


DANDRUFF  cures,  312 
lotion,  312 
Densdorf  pomade,  290 


346 


INDEX. 


Dentifrice,  singular,  used  by  the 

Roman  ladies,  26 
Dentifrices  and  mouth-waters,  col- 
oring; substances  for,  272 
mouth-waters,  etc.,  272-283 
Depilatories,  322,  323 

use  of  in  ancient  Rome,  25,  26 
Dioscorides's  directions  for  making 
animal  fats  suit- 
able for  the  recep- 
tion of  perfumes, 
24 

for  prepai  ing  rose 
ointment,  23, 24 
"  Medica  materia,"  23 
Distillation  of  expressed  oil,  39 
of  lemon  oil,  118 
of  rose  oil,  137,  138 
of  volatile  oils,  39-48 

ancient  mode  of,  24 
Distilling  apparatus  for  lemon  oil, 

118-120 

Double  hair  dyes,  321,  322 
Dragendorff  's  test,  68,  69 
Dry  perfumes,  256-261 
Dutch  tonka  bean,  191, 192 
Dwarf  pine  oil,  149 


PAST  INDIAN  geranium  oil,  112 
£j    Eau  Atlienienne,  308 
Eau  d'Afrique,  322 

de  Botot  (improved),  275 
de  Cologne,  249-254 

durability  of  volatile  oils 

for,  250,  251 
hair  tonic,  309 
preparation  of,  249,  250 
receipts  for,  252-254 
solid  perfume,  260 
de  lavande,  255 
double,  255 
de  Lisbonne,  255 
de  quinine,  309,  310 
(imitation),  310 
de  vie  de  lavande  double  am- 

brea,  255 
dentifrice  Botot,  274 

Orieutale,  274,  275 
lustral  (hair  restorative),  310 
Ecuelle  process  for  obtaining  lemon 

oil,  117,  118 
Egg  oil,  virtues  of,  314 
Egypt,  ancient,  paints  used  in,  18, 
19 


Egyptians,    use    of   perfume-sub- 
stances by  the,  for  embalming 
the  dead,  18 
Elseoptene,  33 
Emperor  pomade,  292 
Enfleurage  or  absorption,  process 

of,  60-65 

England  and  America,  use  and 
preparation  of  nitrous  ether 
in,  212-214 

use  of  perfumery  in,  30 
English  aromatic  vinegar,  325,  326 

Canadian,  or  American  castor, 
185,  186 

peppermint  oil,  132,  133 

tonka  bean,  192 
Esprit  de  menthe,  276 
Ess-bouquet  sachet  powder,  259 

solid  perfume,  260 
Essence  a  1'ecuelle,  or  au  zeste,  117 

apple,  216 

apricot,  216,  217 

cherry,  217 

currant,  217 

de  jasmin,  114 

de  lavande  Montblanc,  115 

de  mirbane,  199 

grape,  217 

lemon,  217 

melon,  217 

of  Portugal,  125 

of* the   odor  of  Linden  blos- 
soms, 238 

orange,  217 

peach,  217 

pear,  217 

pine-apple,  217 

plum,  217. 

raspberry,  218 

strawberry,  218 

Essences  and  vinegars,  fumigating, 
264-266 

pastilles,    powders,    etc.,    for 

fumigating,  262-271 
Essential  or  volatile  oils,  occur 

rence  of,  in  plants,  31 
Ester  or  ether  number,  82 
Ether,  apple,  216 

apricot,  216 

cherry,  216 

or  ester  number,  82 

pear,  216 

pine-apple,  216 

strawberry,  216 
Ethers,  fruit,  200-218 


INDEX. 


347 


Ethyl  acetate,  or  acetic  ethyl,  201- 
204 

benzoate,  or  beuzoic  ether,  204, 
205 

butyrate,  or  butyric  ether,  205- 
210 

formate,  or  formic  ethyl  ether, 
210,  211 

nitrite,  or  nitrous  ether,  211- 

214 

Eucalyptene,  111 
Eucalyptol,  111 
Eucalyptus  oil,  110,  111 

tincture,  235 
Eugenol,  103,  109 
Expression  of  volatile  oils,  36-39 
Extract,  concentrated  flower,  245 

patchouli,  233 

spinach,  239 
Extraction  of  volatile  oils,  48-58 

or  maceration  of  flowers,  286, 

287 

Extracts,  alcoholic,  from  flower 
pomades,  apparatus  for, 
223-225 

and  tinctures,  225-237 
Extrait  acacia,  237 

bouquet  Eugenie,  241 
Prince  Albert,  243 
Victoria,  242,  248 

cassie,  237 

chypre,  243,  244,  247 

de  violette  de  Parme,  239,  240 

edelweiss,  240 

ess-bouquet,  240,  241,  247 

excelsior,  241 

fleurs  de  Mai,  238 

Frangipani,  241,  249 

heliotrope.  237 

ixora,  239,'  248,  249 

jacinthe,  237,  238 

jasmin,  238 

jockey  club,  241,  242 

jonquille,  238 

kiss-me-quick,  243 

lily  of  the  valley,  238 

magnolia,  238 

mareehal.  244 

May  flowers,  238 

millefleurs,  242 

mogadore,  243 

mousselline,  244 

muguet,  238,  248 

musk,  243 

new-mown  hay,  243,  247 


Extract  opopanax,  242 

orange,  239 

patchouli,  242 

reseda,  240,  246 

rose,  246 

v.  d.  centifolie,  239 

spring-flower,  241,  248 

tubereuse,  240 

violette,  239,  246 

white  rose,  239 

ylang-ylang,  240,  246,  247 
Extraits  aux  fleurs,  219,  237-240 

d'odeurs,  219 

triple  concentie"s,  244,  245 


FACE,  painting  the,  practised  by 
the  Hebrew  women,  19 
Family  pomade,  290,  291 
vaseline  pomade,  296 
Farin  d'amandes  ameres,  329 

de  noisette,  328 
Fat   mixtures  for  hair  pomades, 

288,  289 
paints,  341 ,  342 

Fats,  animal,  preparation  of,  for 
the  reception  of  perfumes, 
24 

for  pomades  and  hair  oils,  284 
protection  of,  against  rancid- 
ity, 285 

purification  of,  285,  286 
FedereFs,  C.  F.,  test  for  pepper- 
mint oil,  135 
Fennel  oil,  111,  112 
Filter,  illustrated   and  described, 

38,39 

Filtration  of  expressed  oils,  37-39 
Flake-white,  336 
Florentine  flasks,  46,  47 
Florida  water,  308,  309 
Flower  brilliantine,  306,  307 
extract,  concentrated,  245 
fumigating  essence,heliotrope, 

264 

hair  oil,  301 
pomades,  286,  287 

extraction  of,  221-225 
Flowers  for  the  production  of  vola- 
tile oils,  localities  best  suited 
for  the  cultivation  of,  32,  33 
maceration  or  extraction  of, 

286, 287 

Formic  ethyl  ether,  or  ethyl  for- 
mate, 210,  211 


348 


INDEX. 


France,  cultivation  of  the  bitter 

orange  in,  126 
extravagant  use  of  rouge  in, 

28,  29 
golden  ae:e  for  toilet  articles 

in,  27-29 
introduction  of  the  arts  of  the 

toilet  into,  27 
old  process  of  maceration  in, 

59 

Frangipani  sachet  powder,  258 
Frankincense,  in  ancient  times,  19- 

21 

or  olibanum,  176,  177 
French  and  African  geranium  oils, 

112,  113 

oil  of  turpentine,  148 
patchouli  oil,  131 
perfumers,  ancient,  privileges 

of,  29,  30 
pomades    (flower    pomades), 

fine,  286,  287 
Fruit  ethers,  200-218 
Fuchsine,  detection  of  alcohol  by, 

69 
Fumigating  agents,  dry,  objections 

to,  263,  264 
balsam,  265,  266 
essences  and  vinegars,  264-266 
pastilles,    powders,    etc., 

262-271 

lacquer,  270,  271 
mode  of,  262,  263 
object  of,  262 
paper,  268 
pastilles,  268-270 

ordinary  black,  269 

red,  269 
powder,  ordinary,  266,  267 

violet,  267 
powders,  266-268 
prejudice  against,  262 
vinegar,  266 
water,  266 
Funnel,  separatory,  47 


flERANIOL,  112 
\J    Geranium  oil,  East  Indian,  112 
Geranium  oil,  palmarosa  oil,  Turk- 
ish geranium  oil,  112 
tincture,  235 
oils,  French  and  African,  112, 

113 
German  curled-mint  oil,  132 


German  oil  of  turpentine,  148 

peppermint  oil,  132,  133 
Germany,  manufacture  of  rose  oil 

in,  from  indigenous  roses,  136 
Glycerin  cream,  332 

for  dentifrices,  273,  274 

gelee,  332 

hair  tonic,  310 

jelly,  332,  333 

perfumed  with  fruit  odor,  328 

with  rose  odor,  328 
Grape  essence,  217 
Greeks,  practice  of  anointing  the 

body  by  the,  21 
Green  camomile  oil,  99 
Guaiacum  reaction,  Hager's,  78-80 
Gummi  rnyrrha,  172-176 

resina  myrrha,  172-176 
Gum-resins,  155,  156 
Guy  de  Chanlios,  receipts  for  cos- 
metics in  the  works  of,  26 


HAGER'S  alcohol  and  sulphuric 
acid  test,  78 
Hager's  guaiacum  reaction,  78-80 

tannin  test,  69-71 
Hair,  copper  salts  for  dyeing  the, 

315,  316 

dye,  bismuth,  320 
black,  321 
brown,  321 
copper,  322 
potassium  permanganate, 

320 
requirements  of  a  good, 

314 

tannin,  321,322 
Turkish,  316 
walnut,  320 
dyes,  314-322 

double,  321,322 

silver,  321 

single,  319,  320 

use  of,  in  ancient  Rome, 

25 
green  walnut  shells  for  dyeing 

the,  318 

henna  for  dyeing  the,  317,  318 
iron  salts  for  dyeing  the,  316 
lead  salts  for  dyeing  the,  315 
nitrate  of  silver  for  dyeing  the, 

315 

oil,  alpine  herb,  301 
burdock  root,  302 


INDEX. 


349 


Hair  oil,  cheap,  303,304: 
fine,  302,  303 
flower,  301 
jasmine,  303 
macassar,  302 
mignonette,  302 
neroli,  302 
Peru, 302 

Peruvian  bark,  301,  302 
philocome,  303 
Portugal,  303 
rose,  301 
sultana,  304 
tonka,  304 
vanilla,  303 
vaseline,  303 
Victoria,  304 
violet,  304 
ylang-ylang,  303 
oils,  300-304 

and  pomades,  fats  for,  284 
peroxide    of     hydrogen     for 

bleaching  the,  318 
pomade,  fine,  291 

for  promoting  the  growth 

of  the,  291 
pomades,  285-300 

according  to  the  German 

method,  288-295 
coloring    substances    for, 

286 

fine  French,  286,  287 
foundations  for,  288,  289 
hair  oils,  and  hair  tonics, 
hair  dyes  and  depilato- 
ries, 284-323 
potassium   permanganate  for 

dyeing  the,  316 
pyrogallic  acid  for  dyeing  the, 

316 

stain,  pyrogallic,  320 
tonics,  308-314 
Hands,  chapped,  preparations  for, 

333,  334 

wash  for  the,  334 

Hebrews,    ancient,    perfume-sub- 
stances known  to  the,  19 
Heliotrope  pomade,  291 ,  292 

sachet  powder,  257 
Heliotropin  or  piperonal,  193-195 

tincture,  232 

Henna-flower,  use  of  the,  for  per- 
fuming, 19 

Henna  for  dyeing  the  hair,  317, 318 
Herb  pomade,  292 


Herodotus  on  the  mode  of  gaining 
olibanum,  19,  20 

Heyl's  distilling  apparatus,  57,  58 
extracting  apparatus,  54-57 

Historical  notice  of  perfumery,  17- 
30 

Hitchin  and  Mitchan  lavender  oil, 
115 

Honey  almond  paste,  329 
water,  310 

Hoppe's  nitroprusside  of  copper 
test,  75-78 

Horse  fat,  284,  285 

Hiibl's  iodine  method,  80,  81 

Hufeland's,  Dr.,  tooth-powder,  280 
tooth-soap,  282,  283 

Huile  antique  &  la  rose,  301 
au  jasmin,  301 

Huiles  antiques,  301 

Hydrogen,  peroxide  of,  for  bleach- 
ing the  hair,  318 


TCE  pomade,  290 

J_     Indian  balsam,  white,  172 

Infusion  or  maceration,  process  of, 

58-60 
Iodine  method,  Hubl's,  80,  81 

test  with,  74,  75 

Iron  salts  for  dyeing  the  hair,  316 
Italy,  perfumes  and  cosmetics  in, 

26,27 


JAPANESE  peppermint  oil,  132, 
J     133 

Jasmin,  essence  de,  114 
Jasmine  hair  oil,  303 

oil   or  oil   of  jessamine,  113, 
114 

pomade,  292 
Jessamine,  oil  of,  or  jasmine  oil. 

113, 114 

Jockey  club  sachet,  257 
Juniper-berry  tincture,  233 
Juniper  odor,  265 

oil,  114 


KABARDIN  musk,  179, 180 
Kahol,  317 
Karsi,  319 
Kienoel,  149 
Kohol,  319 
Kopher,  19 


350 


INDEX. 


Kremel's  saponification   test,   81, 

82 

Krinochrom,  322 
Krummholz  oil,  149 
Kypros,  19 


LACQUER,  fumigating-,  270,  271 
Lait,  d'amandes  amfcres,  327 
Lait  de  lys,  328 

de  rose,  326,  327 
virginal,  326 

Lanolin  pomade,  292,  293 
Latschenoel,  149 
Lavande  Montblanc,   essence   de, 

115 

Lavender  odor  solid  perfume,  260 
oil,  115, 116 

adulterations  of,  116 
tincture,  235 
Lead  salts   for  dyeing  the    hair, 

315 

white,  336 

Leather,  perfumed,  30 
Lebonah, 19-21 
Lederin,  286 
Lemon  essence,  217 

grass-oil  tincture,  235 
oil,  116-121 

conversion  of  oil  of  tur- 
pentine into,  189,  190 
tincture,  235 
Licarioil,  linaloe  oil,  122 

.tincture,  235 
Lilac  oil,  121 
Lily  milk,  328 

of  the  valley  sachet  powder, 

258 

vaseline  pomade,  296 
Limes,  oil  of,  121,  122 
Linaloe  oil,  licari  oil,  122 
Lip-salve,  334,  335 
Lip-salves  and  cold  creams,  331- 

335 

Liquid  ambar,  172 
paints,  340-342 
rouge,  340,  341 
storax,  168-171 

Locock's  lotion  for  the  hair,  311 
Lotion,  dandruff,  312 

Locock's,  for  the  hair,  311 
shampoo,  311 
Lubah,  19-21 

Lunar  caustic  for  dyeing  the  hair, 
315 


MACASSAR  hair  oil,  302 
pomade,  292 
Mace  oil,  124 

Maceration  or  extraction  of  flow- 
ers, 286,  287 

or  infusion,  process  of,  58-60 
Magnesia,  336 
Mandarin  oil,  125,  126 
Marinello's  work  on   "  Cosmetics 

for  Ladies,"  27 
Marjoram  oils,  122,  123 
Maumen^'s  test,  82,  83 
Meal,  almond,  329 

nut,  328 
Meals  and  pastes,  perfumed,  328- 

331 

MelanogSne,  322 
Melon  essence,  217 
Menthol,  133 

pungent,  260 
Messina,  yield  of   lemon    oil   in, 

120 
Methyl  salicylate,  151 

artificial    production    of, 

152,  153 
Mierzinski's  formulae  for  bay  rum, 

313,  314 

Mignonette  hair  oil,  302 
oil,  123 
pomade,  293 
vaseline  pomade,  296 
Milk,  almond,  327 
lily,  328 
rose,  326,  327 
virginal,  326 
Millefleurs    fumigating    pastilles, 

270 

Mint,  curled,  oil  of,  132 
Mirbane,  oil  of,  199 
Mitchan  and  Hitchin  lavender  oil. 

115 
Monfalcone's,  D.,  distilling  appa 

ratus  for  lemon  oil,  118-120 
Moschus  ex  vesicis,  180 
Moses,  the  holy  oil  prescribed  by, 

21 

Mouche  or  beauty  patch,  28 
Mouth-  and  tooth- waters,  274-277 
waters  and  dentifrices,  color- 
ing substances  for,  272 
dentifrices,  etc.,  272-283 
Musk,  31, 178-184 

adulterations  of,  183,  184 
artificial,  182,  183 
fumigating  pastilles,  269,  270 


INDEX. 


351 


Musk-rat,  American,  musk  of  the, 
181,  182 

root  or  sumbul-root  tincture,- 
231 

sachet  powder,  259 

sac,  how  to  open  a,  180 

sacs,  illustrated  and  described, 
178, 179 

seed  or  abelmosk  tincture,  230, 
231 

substitutes  for,  181,  182 

tincture,  228 
Myristicin,  124 
Myron,  21 
Myrrh,  172-176 

adulterations  of,  175,  176 

oil,  123,  124 

tincture,  235 

tincture,  230 

tooth-tincture,  276 
Myrrha  electa,  173 

in  sortis,  173 

vulgaris,  173 
Myrrhin,  174 
Myrrhol,  174 
Myrtol,  123,  124 


\TAIL-POWDER,  334 
1>    Neroli  hair  oil,  302 
Nerolioil,  adulterations  of,  127,128  j 
or  orange-flower  oil,  126-  | 

129 

tincture,  235 
petale,  127 
pomade,  293 
vaseline  pomade,  296 
New-mown  hay  fumigating  pow- 
der, 267,  268 
sachet  powder,  259 
Nitrate  of  bismuth,  335,  336 

of  silver  for  dyeing  the  hair, 

315 
Nitrobenzol,  198-200 

adulterations  of,  199 
Nitroprusside  of  copper  test,  75-78 
Nitrous  ether,  or  ethyl  nitrite,  211- 

214 

Nut  meal,  328 
Nutmeg  oils,  124,  125 


ODONTINE,  275 
or  tooth-paste,  277,  278 
paste,  278 


Odor  and  taste,  testing  the,  of  voja- 

tile  oils,  66,  67 
Odors,  compound,  240-245 
Oil,  castor,   determination   of,  in 

volatile  oil,  67,  68 
fat,  adulteration  with,  of  vola- 
tile oil,  67,  68 
the  holy,  prescribed  by  Moses, 

21 

volatile,  apparatus  for  deter- 
mining the  per- 
centage of,  in  a 
vegetable  sub- 
stance, 40,  41 
for  the  distillation 

of,  41-46 

Planchon's  procedure  for 
the  recognition  of  a,  83- 
86 
separation    of    the,    and 

water,  46,  47 
testing  the  odor  of,  66 

the  taste  of,  67 

Oils,  fat,  treatment  of,  with  ben- 
zoin, 300,  301 

oxygenated,  behavior  of,  to- 
wards nitroprusside  of  cop- 
per, 76-78 

perfuming  of,  61,  62 
volatile,  33-65 

ancient  mode  of  distilling, 

apparatus  for  the  extrac- 
tion of,  48-57 

characteristics  of,  33,  34 

concentrated,  35 

detection  of  adulterations 
of,  with  an  oil  of  lower 
quality,  74-83 

distillation  of,  39-48 

division  of,  with  reference 
to  the  guaiacum  reac- 
tion, 79,  80 

expression  of,  36-39 

extraction  of,  48-58 

extra  strong,  35 

for  Cologne  water,  dura- 
bility of,  250,  251 

localities  best  suited  for 
the  cultivation  of  flow- 
ers for  the  production 
of,  32,  33 

modes  of  obtaining,  36-65 

or  essential ,  occurrence  of, 
in  plants,  31 


352 


INDEX. 


Oils,  volatile,  patented,  85 

principal  divisions  of,  34 

solubility  of,  33 

storage  of,  65 

testing  of,  66-86 

the,   used   in  perfumery, 

87-154 

Ointment  makers,  ancient,  condi- 
tion of,  24,  25 
rose,  according  to  Dioscorides, 

23,  24 

Ointments,  directions  for  prepar- 

'    \        ing,  in  ancient  works,  23,  24 

foreign,  edict  against,  in  Rome, 

for  the  different  parts  of  the 
body  used  by  the  Athenians, 
22 
Oleum  abietes,  149 

canadensis,  149,  150 
amygdalae  amarae,  87-93 
anisi",  93,  94 
anthemidis,  99,  100 
anthos,  144,  145 
cajeputi,  98,  99 
carui,  100, 101, 
caryophylli,  108-110 
cassise,  103,  104 
cedri,  101 

cinnamon!  ceylonici,  102,  103 
citri,  106,  107 
eucalypti,  110,  111 

australe,  110 
florum  aurantii,  126-129 
foeniculi,  111,  112 
gaultheriae,  151-153 
geranii,  112,  113 
iridis,  129,  130 
iva  ranchusa,  150, 151 
juniperi,  114 
laurocerasi,  101,  102 
lavandulse,  115,  116 
ligni  rhodii,  145 

eandali,  145 

sassafras,  145-147 
limettae,  121,  122 
limonis,  116-121 
macidis,  124 
menthae  crispae,  132 

piperitse,  132-135 

pulegii,  135,  136 
myrtha3,  123, 134 
na"phae,  126-129 
neroli,  126-129 
nucistae  sethereum,  124 


Oleum  petit  grain,  129 
pimenta,  136 
pini,  149 

pumilionis,  149 
resedae,  123 
rosemarini,  144,  145 
templinum,  149 
uonae,  153,  154 

Olibanum  in  ancient  times,  19-21 
or  frankincense,  176,  177 
tincture,  230 
Opiat  liauide  pour  les  dents,  280, 

281 

Opopanax,  176 
oil,  125 

tincture,  235 
tincture,  230 
Orange,  bitter,  localities   for  the 

cultivation  of  the,  126 
essence,  217 
flower  oil,  or  neroli  oil,  126- 

129 

water,  128 

fumigating  powder,  267 
peel  oil,  125 
sachet  powder,  259 
Oriental  flower  fumigating  essence, 

265 

pomade,  293 
Orris-root  oil,  129,  130 
liquid,  257 
tincture,  235 
tincture,  231 
Orris  stearoptene,  129 


PAINT,  fine  red,  337 
ordinary  red,  336,  337 
red  stick,  339 
white,  337 

liquid,  341 
stick,  340 
Paints,  33.5-342 
fat,  341,  342 
liquid,  S40-342 
preparation  of,  337-339 
pulverulent,  335,  336 
solid,  336-340 

use  of,  by  the  Roman  ladies,  25 
Palermo,  yield  of  lemon  oil  in,  120 
Palmarosa  oil,  geranium  oil, Turk- 
ish geranium  oil,  112 
Paper,  fumigating,  268 
Paraffine,    solid    perfumes    with, 
259,  260 


INDEX. 


353 


Paraguay,   manufacture  of  petit-  j 

grain  oil  in,  129 
Paris,  annual  sale  of  perfumery  in, 

29,30 

Paste,  honey  almond,  329 
Pastes  and  meals,  perfumed,  328- 

331 
and    powders   for    the  teeth, 

277-283 
Pastilles,  fumigating,  268-270 

powders,    essences,    etc.,    for  j 

fumigating,  262-271 
Patchouli-camphor,  131 
Patchouli  extract,  233 
leaves,  130,  131 
oil,  130-132 

tincture,  235 
sachet  powder,  258 
Pate  d'amandes  au  miel,  329 
Peach  essence,  217 

kernels,  use  of,  in  the  fabrica- 
tion of  bitter-almond  oil,  88 
Pear  essence,  217 

ether,  216 

Penang  patchouli  oil,  131 
Peppermint  oil, adulterants  of,  134, 

135 
oils,  132-136 

American,    English,    and  j 
German,   mode  of  dis- 
tinguishing, 133,  134 
Pepper,  perfume-substance  from, 

191 
Perfumed  meals  and  pastes,  328- 

331 
Perfume-materials,  artificial,  189- 

218 
for  the  manufacture  of  | 

perfumery,  31-65 
substances,    consumption    of, 
by  the  ancient  Romans,  j 

consumption    of,    by  the  I 
early    nations     of    the 
Orient,  17 
from  the  animal  kingdom,  i 

178-188 
Perfumeries  and  cosmetics  in  the 

Middle  Ages,  26,  27 
Perfumer,  the  actual  flower  garden 

of  the,  32 
what  the  art  of  the,  consists 

in,  219 

Perfumers,  French,  ancient  privi- 
leges of,  29,  30 

23 


Perfumery,  annual  sale  of,  in  Paris, 

29,  30 

historical  notice  of,  17-30 
perfume-substances    for     the 

manufacture  of,  31-65 
the  volatile  oils  used  in, 87-1 54 
use  of,  in  England,  30 
Perfumes,  alcoholic,  219-255 

and  cosmetics  in  Italy,  26,  27 

dry,  256-261 

preparation  of  animal  fats  for 

the  reception  of,  24 
solid,  with  paraffine,  259,  260 
Peroxide  of  hydrogen  for  bleaching 

the  hair,  318 
Peru  balsam,  159-166 

adulterants  of,  162 
oil,  161 

statistics  of,  162 
tests  for,  162-166 
tincture,  229 
white,  172 
hair  oil,  302 
Peruvian  balsam,  white,  160,  161 

bark  hair  oil,  301,  302 
Petit-grain  oil,  129 

tincture,  236 
Petroleum-ether,  48 

as  testing  agent  for 

Peru  balsam,  163 
Philocome  hair  oil,  303 
Pimento  oil,  or  oil  of  allspice,  136 
Pine-apple  essence,  217 

ether,  216 
Pine-leaf  oil,  149 

tincture,  236 
Pine  odor  for  atomizing,  265 

oil,  149 

Piperate,  potassium,  194 
Piperiue,  194 
Piperonal,  how  obtained,  194,  195 

or  heliotropin,  193-195 
Piver's  apparatus  for  maceration, 

59,  60 

for  the  absorption  pro- 
cess, 63,  64 

Planchon's  procedure  for  the  re- 
cognition of  a  volatile  oil,  83-86 
Plants,  families  of,  richest  in  vola- 
tile oils,  32 
occurrence  of  volatile  oils  in, 

31 
Pliny's  account  of  olibanum,  20, 21 

"  Historia  naturalis,"  23 
Plum  essence,  217 


354 


INDEX. 


Plutarch  on  the  extravagant  use 

of  ointments  in  Rome,  22,  23 
Paraffin  ice  pomade,  293 
Poley  oil,  135,  136 
Pomade,  apple,  289 
bear's  grease,  289 
beef-marrow,  294 
benzoin,  290 
black  wax,  299 
blonde  wax,  299 
bouquet  vaseline,  296 
brown  wax,  299,  300 
castor  oil,  293 
cheap,  293 

wax,  390 
Densdorf,  290 
emperor,  202 
extra  fine  vaseline,  298 
family,  290,  291 

vaseline,  296 
fine,  291,  294 

vaseline  (yellow;,  297 
for  promoting  the  growth  of 

the  hair,  29i 
heliotrope,  291,  292 
herb,  292 
ice,  290 
jasmine,  292 
lanolin,  292,  293 
lily  of  the  valley  vaseline,  296 
macassar,  292 
mignonette,  293 

vaseline,  296 
neroli,  293 

vaseline,  296 
oriental,  293 
paraffin  ice,  293 
Portugal,  292 

vaseline,  296 
princess,  293,  294 
quinine,  289,  290 

(imitation),  290 
resin,  300 
Rogers's,    for     producing     a 

beard,  294 
rose,  294 

wax,  299 
salicylic,  294 

stick,  manufacture  of,  298,299 
strawberry,  291 
tonka,  294,  295 
vanilla,  295 
vaseline  (red),  297 

(white),  297 

foundations  for,  296 


Pomade,  Victoria,  294 

vaseline,  297,  2S8 

violet,  295 

Virginia  vaseline,  297 

walnut,  295 
Pomades,  285-300 

according     to     the     German 
method,  288-295 

and  hair  oils,  fats  for,  284 

coloring  substances  for,  286 

designation  of  the  qualities  of, 
219,  220 

foundations  for,  288,  289 

resin,  298 

stick,  298-300 

foundations  for,  298 

vaseline,  295-298 

wax,  298 
Pommade  a  Pacacia,  287 

i  la  fleur  d'orauge,  287 

a  la  rose,  287 

a  Ph&iotrope,  287 
Portugal  hair  oil,  303 

oil,  125 

tincture,  236 

pomade,  292 

vaseline  pomade,  296 
Potassium  permanganate  for  dye- 
ing the  hair,  316 
hair  dye,  320 

piperate,  194 
Poudre  d'Algerine,  281,  282 

de  corail,  280 

de  riz  a  la  rose,  329,  330 

de  riz  a  la  violette,  330 

de  riz  bouquet,  331 

de  riz  heliotrope,  330 

de  riz  ixora,  331 

de  riz  muguet,  330,  331 

de  riz  orange,  330 

dentifrice,  279 

Powder  for  coloring  intensely  red, 
336 

new-mown    hay    fumigating, 
267,  268 

orange  fumigating,  267 

ordinary  fumigating,  266,  267 

rose  fumigating,  267 
Powders,  335,  336 

and  pastes  for  the  teeth,  277- 
283 

fumigating,  266-268 

mixtures  for,  336 

pastilles,   and  essences,   etc., 
tor  fumigating,  262-271 


INDEX. 


355 


Preston  salt,  260 
Princess  pomade,  293,  294 
Pyrogallic  acid  for  dyeing  the  hair, 

816 
hair  stain,  320 


QUININE  pomade,  289,  290 
(imitation),  290 
tooth-water,  276 


RASPBERRY  essence,  218 
Rastikopetra,  316 
Recamier  cream,  333 
Red  paint,  fine,  337 

ordinary,  336,  337 
stick  paint,  339 
thyme  oil,  147 
Reggio,   mode  of  manufacturing 

bergamot  oil  in,  118 
Reseda  sachet  powder,  258,  259 
Resin  pomade,  300 

pomades,  298 

Resins  and  balsams,  155-177 
definition  of,  155 
diffusion  of,  in  the  vegetable 

kingdom,  156 
elementary     constituents    of, 

155 

hard,  155 
soft,  155,  156 
Rhazes,  receipts  for  cosmetics  in 

the  writings  of,  26 
Rhodium  oil,  or  rosewood  oil,  145 
Rhusma,  322,  323 
Righini's  method  for  testing  ber-  j 

gamot  oil,  98 
Rogers's  pomade  for  producing  a 

beard,  294 
Romans,  ancient,  consumption  of 

perfume-substances  by  the,  24 
Rome,  introduction  of  ointments 

in,  22 
Plutarch   on  the  extravagant 

use  of  ointments  in,  22,  23 
Rosa  alba,  137   / 

damascena,  137  is 
Rose  bandoline,  305 

flower  fumigating  essence,  264 
fumigating  pastilles,  270 

powder,  267 
hair  oil,  304 
milk,  326,  327 
oil,  adulterants  of,  142 


Rose  oil,  adulteration  of,  in  Bulga- 
ria, 140 

determination  of  sperma- 
ceti in,  143,  144 
insulation  and  determina- 
tion of  the  stearoptene 
in,  139, 140 
judging  the  genuineness 

of,  139 
liquid,  139 

or  attar  of  roses,  136-144 
principal  localities  of  pro- 
duction of,  136 
test  for,  143 

used  in  Bulgaria,  141 
tincture,  236,  237 
ointment,  according  to  Diosco- 

rides,  23,  24    v 
pomade,  294 
wax  pomade,  299 
Rosemary  oil,  144,  145  ^ 
Roses,  cream  of,  333 
Rosewood  oil,  or  rhodium  oil,  145 
Rouge,  336,  337 
en  feuilles,  340 
extravagant  use  of,  in  France, 

28,29 

liquid,  340,  341 
moulding  of,  into  sticks,  339 
stick,  339 

Russian  or  Siberian  castor,  185,186 
musk,  179, 180 


SACHET  3,  la  rose,  257 
&  la  violette,  257 
aux  millefleurs,  258 
jockey  club,  257 
powder,  ess-bouquet,  259 
Frangipani,  258 
heliotrope,  257 
lily  of  the  valley,  258 
musk,  259 
new-mown  hay,  259 
orange,  259 
patchouli,  258 
icseJa,  258,  259 
Victoria,  258 
ylang-ylang,  257 
powders,  256-259 
Safrene,  146 
Safrol,  146,  147 
St.  John's  bread  or  carob,  209 
Salicylic  pomade,  294 
Salts,  smelling,  260,  261 


356 


INDEX. 


Salve,  Cyprian,  19 
Sandal-wood  oil,  145 

tincture,  236 
Saudarac,  177 
Sandaraciu,  177 
Saponaceous  tooth-wash,  283 
Saponification  number,  81 
test,  Kremel's,  81,  82 
-Sassafras  oil,  145-147 
Sartorius  ylang-ylang  oil,  154 
Schiinmel  &  Co.'s    directions   for 

bay  rum,  313 
directions    for   the 
quantitative    de- 
termination     of 
cinnamaldehvde, 
104-106 
improved  still,  44- 

46 

Separator- funnel,  47 
Shampoo  liquid,  311,312 

lotion,  311 
Siberian  or  Russian  castor,  1 85, 186 

musk,  179,  180 
Silver,  nitrate  of,  for  dyeing  the 

hair,  315 

Single  hair  dyes,  319,  320 
Siphon  still,  41,  42 
Skin  cosmetics,  324-328 
Smelling  salts,  260,  261 
Soap  for  dentifrices,  273 
Solid  paints,  336-340 
Solubility  of  volatile  oils,  33 
Sozodont,  275 

Spanish  marjoram  oil,  122,  123 
Spermaceti,  determination   of,  in 

rose  oil,  143,  144 
Spike  oil,  115 
Spinach  extract,  239 
Spirit  of  wine,  or  alcohol,  detec- 
tion of,  in  volatile  oil,  68-71 
Sponge-process  for  obtaining  lemon 

oil,  116,  117 

Stahl's  tooth-tincture,  276 
Star  anise  oil,  94,  95 
Stearoptene,  33 

of  rose  oil,  138 
Stick  paint,  white,  340 

pomade,  manufacture  of,  298, 

299 
pomades,  298-300 

foundations  for,  298 
rouge,  339 

Still,  for  direct  steam,  43,  44 
improved,  44-46 


Still,  ordinary,  conversion  of,  into 

use  with  steam,  42,  43 
siphon,  41,  42 
i  Stohman's  test  for  oil  of  cloves, 

109 

I  Storax,  168-172 
American,  172 
in  grains,  171 
liquid,  168-171 

adulterations  of,  170,  171 
ordinary,  171,  172 
tincture,  230 
j  Strawberry  essence,  218 
ether,  216 
pomade,  291 
Styracin,  170 
Styrax  calamitus,  171,  172 

vulgaris,  171,  172 
Styrol,  169,  170 
Sultana  hair  oil,  304 
Sumbul  root,  or  musk-root   tinc- 
ture, 231 


TANNIN  hair  dye,  321,322 
Taste  and   odor,  testing  the, 

of  volatile  oils,  66,  67 
Tea  hair  tonic,  310,  311 
Teinture  Chinoise  (Kohol),  319 

Orientale  (Karsi),319 
Templin  oil,  149 
Terpenes,  35,  36 

adulterations   of   volatile    oil 

with,  73 

Terpilene,  189,  190 
Testing  volatile  oils,  66-86 
Theophrastus's    work    "  On    Per- 
fumes," 23 

Thibet  or  Oriental  musk,  178,  179 
Thymene,  147 
Thyme  oil,  147,  148 

from  the  field  thy  me,  147, 

148 

Thymol.  147,  273 
tooth-paste,  278 
tooth-powder,  279 
tooth-water,  274 
j  Tincture,  ambergris,  229 
angelica-root,  231 
balm-oil,  234 
basil-oil,  234 
benzoin,  229 
bergamot-oil,  234 
bitter  almond-oil,  234 
canango-oil,  234 


INDEX. 


357 


Tincture,  cassia-oil,  235 

castor,  229 

cedar-oil,  235 

cinnamon-oil,  235 

citronella-oil,  235 

civet,  228 

clove-oil,  235 

cumarin,  232 

eucalyptus-oil,  235 

geranium-oil,  235 

heliotropin,  232 

juniper-berry,  233 

lavender-oil,  235 

lemon-grass  oil,  235 

lemon-oil,  235 

licari-oil,  235 

musk,  228 

root  or  sumbul-root,  231 
seed  or  abelmosk,  230, 231 

myrrh,  230 
oil,  235 

neroli-oil,  235 

olibanum,  230 

opopanax,  230 
oil,  235 

orris-root,  231 
oil,  235 

patchouli-oil,  235 

Peru-balsam,  229 

petit-grain-oil,  236 

pine-leaf-oil,  236 

Portugal -oil,  236 

rose-oil,  236,  237 

sandal- wood-oil,  236 

storax,  230 

tola-balsam,  229,  230 

tonka-bean,  231,  232 

vanilla,  232 

vanillin,  232 

verbena-oil,  236 

vitivert,  233 
oil,  236 

wintergreen-oil,  236 

ylang-ylang-oil,  236 
Tinctures  and  extracts,  225-237 

apparatus  for  the  preparation  > 

of,  226,  227 

Toilet  articles,  golden  age  for,  in  ! 
France,  27-29 

arts  of  the,  in  ancient  times,  18  i 

introduction  of  the  arts  of  the,  j 
into  France,  27 

vinegar,  326 
Tolu  balsam,  166-168 

new  variety  of,  167,  168 
Tolu  balsam,  tincture,  229,  230 


Toluene,  166, 167 
Tonka  beans,  191,  192 

bean  tincture,  231,  232 
hair  oil,  304 
pomade,  294,  295 
Tonkin  musk,  178,  179 

characteristics  of,  180, 181 
Tooth-  and  mouth-waters,  274-277 
paste  or  odontine,  277,  278 
pastes  and  tooth-powders,  277- 

283 

powder,  Dr.  Hufeland's,  280 
powders  and  tooth-pastes,  277- 

283 

preparation  of,  279 
soap,  283 

Dr.  Hufeland's,  282,  283 
tincture,  Dr.  Stahl's,  276 
tinctures,  use  of,  276,  277 
Trotula,  works  of,  26 
Turkish  geranium  oil,  palmarosa 

oil,  geranium  oil,  112 
hair  dye,  316 
Turpentine,  oil  of,  148-150 

conversion  of,  into 
lemon  oil,  189, 190 


TTNITED  STATES,  adaptation  of 
U    some  districts  of,  for  the  culti- 
vation of  plants,  33 


VALERIAN  1C  ether,  or  arnyl  va- 
lerate,  214-216 
ethyl  ether,  216 
Vanilla,  195,  196 
hair  oil,  303 
pomade,  295 
tincture,  232 
Vanillin,  195-198 

adulteration  of,  198 
preparation  of,  196,  197 
tincture,  232 
Vaseline  cold  cream,  331 
hair  oil,  303 
pomade,  extra  fine,  298 
fine  (yellow),  297 
(red)",  297 
(white),  297 
pomades,  295-298 

foundations  for,  296 
Venetian  oil  of  turpentine,  148 
Verbena  oil,  150 

tincture,  236 
Vetiver  oil,  or  vitivert  oil,  150,  151 


358 


INDEX. 


Victoria  hair  oil,  304 
pomade,  294 
sachet  powder,  258 
vaseline  pomade,  297,  298 
Vinaigre  de  Bully,  324 
de  toilette,  325 
de  toilette  a  1'heliotrope,  325 
de  toilette  a  la  rose,  324 
de  toilette  &  la  violette,  324 
de  toilette  orange,  325 
Vinegar, -aromatic,  325,  326 
fumigating,  266 
toilet,  326 
Vinegars  and  essences,  fumigating, 

264-266 
Violet-flower  fumigating  essence, 

265 
Violet  fumigating  pastilles,  270 

powder/267 
hair  oil,  304 
mouth-water,  275 
oil  of,  150 
pomade,  295 
tooth-powder,  279 
Virginal  milk,  326 
Virginia  vaseline  pomade,  297 
Vitivert-oil  tincture,  236 
Vitivert,  or  vetiver  oil,  150,  151 

tincture,  233 

Volatile  oil,  apparatus   for  deter- 
•  mining  the  percentage 
of,  in  a  vegetable  sub- 
stance, 40,  41 
apparatus  for  the  distil- 
lation of,  41-46 
Planchon's     procedure 
for  the  recognition  of 
a,  83-86 
separation  of  the,  and 

46,47 
testing  the  odor  of,  66 

the  taste  of,  67 
•oils,  33-65 

ancient  method  of  distill- 
ing, 24 

apparatus  for  the  extrac- 
tion of,  48-57 
characteristics  of,  33r34 
concentrated,  35 
detection  of  adulterations 
of,  with  an  oil  of  lower 
quality,  74-83 
distillation  of,  39-48 
division  of,  with  reference 
to  the  guaiacum  reac- 
tion, 79,  80 


Volatile  oils,  expression  of,  36-39 

extraction  of,  48-58 

extra  strong,  35 

for  Cologne  water,  dura- 
bility of,  250,  251 

localities  best  suited  for 
the  cultivation  of  flowers 
for  the  production  of,  32, 
33 

modes  of  obtaining,  36-65 

patented,  35 

principal  divisions  of,  34 

solubility  of,  33 

storage  of,  65 

testing  of,  66-86 

the,   used    in   perfumery, 

87-154 

or  essential  oils,  occurrence  of, 
in  plants,  31 


WALNUT  hair  dye,  320 
pomade,  295 
shells,  green,  for  dyeing  the 

hair,  318 
Washes,  326-328 
Wash  for  the  hands,  334 
Water,  fumigating,  266 

separation  of  the,  and  oil,  4(5, 

47 
Wax  pomade,  cheap,  300 

pomades,  298 
White  lead,  336 

liquid  paint,  341 
paint,  337 

rose  solid  perfume,  259 
smelling  salts,  260,  261 
stick  paint,  340 
thyme  oil,  147 
tooth-powder,  280 
Williams,  F.  R. ,  utilization  of  Mau- 

mene's  test  by,  82,  83 
Wintergreen  oil,  151-153 

adulteration  of,  153 
tincture,  236 


YLANG-YLANG  hair  oil,  303 
oil,  153, 154 

tincture,  236 
sachet  powder,  257 
I  Yunnan  musk,  178,  179 


7IBETHUM,  184,  185 
h    Zinc  white,  336 


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